Touareg :: Air Suspension Breaks Down While Going 65 Mph
May 27, 2005
Today my v-10's front air suspension broke? while driving at 65 on a freeway i heard a metal clunk like the sound of a manhole cover slightly ajar being run over, but no impact on the wheel, just this sound , i do not believe i hit anything it just happened out of the blue. after another 5 minutes or so i noticed my front end seemed different, and then i got a priority one red triangle message to STOP with a message about wheels or brake or something. i pulled over and saw that the front end was lower than I've ever seen it. i made it to a dealer a couple of miles later and the front end was as low as it could go with the rear up at the normal height. no leakage no visible damage its just screwed up. I've got 21,000 miles on it and i do drive a little aggressive.
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I have a 06 fwd santa fe. Im pretty sure this is a front break noise. It only happens when breaking and after the breaks have warmed up quite a bit. So after long trips of stopping and going. But if the trip is long with not much stopping the noise doesn't happen. It never happens right away, so if the car sits over nite the next day for my morning coffee run the noise doesn't happen. But driving around town with a lot of stopping and going the noise eventually starts. The front break pads are new/recently installed, as well as the rotors. I've tried giving the pads a sand but nothing changed and im not seeing any bluing on the rotors. You can hear the noise roughly 27 seconds into the mp3. At the moment I can't change back to my old pads as i have a bummed up wrist, I've been waiting for it to heal so i can try changing back to my old pads, but until then i was hoping if i could get an answer as to what's causing the noise.
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I have a F150 which has developed a miss or hesitation when driving. I took it into my mechanic and he told me this:
This year truck is famous for needing a tune up but the problem is that ford redesigned the spark plugs for these years of trucks. The problem is hat carbon builds up and when u go to remove them the plugs break and sometimes you have to take the heads off to get them out, he said that this would cost around I 2500 is one breaks!
So my question then becomes is this the norm for my V8 2005 Ford F150?
My truck has 85,556 miles on it.
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I have a 97 Ford Ranger / 2.3L / 4 cylinder (L4) / 5 speed manual / XL Supercab / 140k miles. I had been having some Check Engine issues and ran rough in town stop light to stop light. But was fine on the highway.
On several visits to the parts store, their OBD tester showed:
PO303 (Cyl 3 misfire detected)
PO141 Bank 1 Sensor 2 O2 Sensor (heater circuit malfunction)
PO171 Bank 1 Combustion Too Lean (the most recent new code to show up)
And the following would show up sometimes, but other times not:
PO 402 EGR Flow - Excessive Detected
P1409 EVR (I cant remember the exact error message for this)
Regards the PO141 code, O'Reilly's sold me a Bosch O2 Sensor (Bosch 15719) and the sales rep told me it was the sensor closer to the engine. And with the attached cable length on the sensor showed was indeed the sensor closest to the engine. But I've been advised the Sensor 2 is for the 'downstream' sensor, furthest away from the engine. And the other sensor, that I replaced is the upstream sensor. And the error continued.
Then back issues showed up and I had back surgery this past year and thus drove the vehicle sparingly. Never resolving the check engine issues. (My bad). Ran on the highway ran fairly well. But recently noticed longer acceleration times and unable to top 65 in 5th gear. I bought spark plugs and plug wires and had plans to change next week.
Yesterday as driving down the Interstate, was 90 miles into my trip, I noticed loss of power even in fourth gear. (note it was the hottest day of the year at 100F). It seemed I used more gas than usual for that distance. I stopped for gas on the Interstate and power seemed to improve. Then about 130 miles into my trip I hit some heavy stop and go traffic, and wasn't able to keep an idle and the engine died numerous times if/when I didn't give it gas at a dead stop. The heavy stop and go heavy traffic and the issues persisted for a half hour for more than five miles. Then when traffic opened up the truck seemed to have a bit more power in 4th gear again. And up to that time all my dash gauges were showing fine. Then a couple miles or so down the interstate, driving 65mph in the inside lane, the check engine light started flashing quickly. And at the same time a sudden loss of power, rough sounding engine with heavy white smoke coming under the hood. And looked back in rear view mirror, with nothing but heavy white smoke. Managed to cross three lanes in heavy traffic and was able the vehicle to the outside emergency lane, finally coming to a stop.
Looked under the hood and saw oil dripping everywhere but with all the oil everywhere I could not find a prime source. Looked like the oil came from the top end of the engine and dripped down. Measured the oil at the dipstick and it seemed like I was at least a quart plus down (I checked the oil before I left on the trip). And it didn't look like any water was in the oil. And my radiator overflow tank was at the proper level. So I figured I lost all that oil during that period of "white smoke".
So had my vehicle towed home. Today in daylight, I did some more inspection and removed the air intake system (hoses and canister) from the air filter to the throttle body. There was significant oil up to the canister piece that fits on the air filter canister (but no oil in the actual air filter), and significant oil inside all the hoses up to inside the throttle body (up to the butterfly which I could see),
When I disconnected these hoses I noticed the blow-by hose connected to the intake hose system was not connected to anything. And a tube opening on the valve cover was open without the a blow-by hose attached and, with no clamp. So I assume all that oil and came out of that blow-by tube on the valve cover, (white smoke created by hot oil hitting the engine).
So appears to me that its not a blown head gasket or worse, which I first feared.
I have the vehicle parked at home.
QUESTIONS: So what are the suggested steps to troubleshoot and repair? Besides reattaching everything and putting a clamp on the blow by hose? And installing new spark plugs and plug wires. I previously replaced plug wires around 60k, even though the manual recommended 100k mile replacement. (And a couple yeas back I had the dealer replace the PCV, which was recommended in the manual and included in the warranty. The timing of the initial check engine lights appeared shortly thereafter).
Is there suppose to be a large amount of oil in the air intake system after an incident like this and should I try to clean/flush out the hoses and the inline canister?
When I disconnected the inline canister from the hoses in the air intake system, unfortunately I failed to document the direction which the canister goes. It has outside markings "ADP with a forward arrow with some horizontal lines, and then at the other end upside down markings with a greater sign PP less than sign. Should the forward arrow point toward the throttle body or toward the air filter (I'm thinking in the direction of air flow, toward the throttle body). I've taken some photos of the engine with air intake hose system unattached, if that might work...
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How much of a difference does the air suspension make in terms of ride quality?
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Can't say I noticed it on the test drive but when we went to Costco last weekend and drove slowly over the speed bumps it seemed like the rear suspension had no give in it at all. Also noticed it whilst out driving tonight.
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When I have it set to comfort, it will adjust up and down at just about every other redlight. Also when I get out sometimes the front will go down. Not leaking or anything there is a electro-mecanical type noise heard and both sides of the front go down the same amount. Is this normal?
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Was driving on some segmented highway concrete that send my front end into quite a thrashing. Slowed down quite a bit and it settle down some but nothing like that before. Pain attention to ride but it feels OK, corners, etc. BUT, over the past few weeks, I've noticed that it has become quite sensitive to sharp transitions (BOTS dots a.k.a. line markers, driveways, etc. so I have a suspicion that one or more of the air spring assemblys has possibly failed or a leak.
It's like the equivalent of a worn out strut. The car hold up. Raises and lowers, etc. But I can't push down on the car to test the response of the suspension like a standard strut car. What is the expected life of the air suspension? And cost to replace pair or all four. Not looking forward to the possible expenses.
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This winter my (air) suspension has developed a major squeak. I did a search and found nothing.....
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Bit of sticky problem - it looks like the air suspension system has failed on my 2004 T-Reg. The back-end is dragging - down to aprox 1 foot off pavement and there is no air in the compressor bottle. The problem is that the next dealer is about 75 miles and bit of a ferry ride away. The ride is bouncy and harsh - but otherwise stable.
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I have the dreaded "STOP FAULT RUNNING GEAR" message. Vag-Com shows Electical Fault in Circuit for both Left Front and Left Rear level sensors. Checked all fuses. Replaced both sensors....no change. Temperature started dropping below freezing, message goes away and suspension works. Temperature rises, message comes back and suspension stops working again.
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I removed the long plastic cover under the right side of the car to expose the air pump. Switched the car on and looked for any obvious signs where the noise came from. Mine showed a missing nut and some play in the bushes. Some strategically placed cable ties, foam and a new nut and the air pump is silent again. Now who said these cars need deep pockets to maintain?
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Having problems with air suspension/compressor? Mine has totally failed with an error message of RUNNING GEAR FAILURE- WORKSHOP!
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Yesterday I had the egg out for its first off-road adventure. The terrain was mostly loose rock with a few boulders to traverse. The egg went great but there was a lot of suspension noises (clunks, clanks, and pops) in the rocky sections. I'm used to four-wheeling with a solid axle Jeep and I was curious if this is a normal occurrence with the egg. I had the air suspension raised to the off-road level and at times it made noises similar to a loose shock.
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I've got a problem with my touareg v10 5.0tdi because when I drive about 140km/h or more the rear suspension gets a vibrations. Sometimes I fell them more and sometimes less. And today when I was driving in the rain I notice they vibrations stopped. What could cause this vibrations of the rear suspension. i have checked wheels and tires and they are good. My touareg has the mileage 127000 km and could be possible that shaft is worn out.
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I've been trying to order a 2009 or 2010 V6 TDI. I'm being told by dealers in the seattle area that I can't order an '09, and also that the 2010 will not have the Air suspension, or Rear diff lock.
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I have an 05 V10 Touareg with air suspension. I often experience a kinking motion when going around roundabouts. It is as though the car wants to go straight even though the steering wheel is turning to the right or left. It is random, and my dealer has experianced the kinking and says that it should be expected. A friend of mine also has a V10 and his doesn't do it.
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I just did my brakes and now I have this squeaking noise when going over speed bump or on uneven surface at low speed. I figure that the springs was decompressed when the car was jacked up and it would settle back down when the car was lower back down. Its has been over a week now and the noise is still there.
By the way, I replaced with Hawk ceramic brakes and it's great. No NOISE and NO brake DUST.
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Having problem with air suspension lowering and rising without changing any settings? Is this normal or maybe I have a leak in my system?
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Seems like I read something on this site about being able to adjust the air suspension software. I'd like to see if I could reduce the body lean a bit more than the current "sport mode".
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