Touareg :: Air Suspension - Significant Sway At Higher Highway Speed
Apr 19, 2005
I recently had compressor for air suspension replaced on my '04 Touareg due to faulty equipment. VW replaced with new compressor. However, when the vehicle was returned to me it drove much rougher. There was significant sway at higher highway speed and you can feel every dip and pebble in the highway after the compressor was replaced Even in the "comfort" mode the ride was ridiculously stiff. I returned the vehicle to VW 3days later with the complaint about the ride roughness and asked if they could adjust the specs to improve the ride and handling. They stated that the vehicle is within "spec" for the ride control. Therefore, they can do nothing about the problem. How to remedy this problem??
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I collected a 6 month old demonstrator Phaeton on Friday to replace my previous 3 year old.
It's interesting all the little changes in the upgrade model, and it has (to me) a different feel. Quite a bit of this may be due to the 19" wheels which do contribute quite a but more road noise at higher (motorway) speeds.
My real query is the sunroof on this car. I hear significant wind noise from the closed roof at higher speeds (an indicated 80 to 90 mph). On inspection I suspect that the front lip of the sunroof is a few mm proud of the roof.
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what could be causing this. The faster I go the higher the pitch sound. It only occurs when pressing the gas pedal. As soon as I let off the gas the noise is gone.
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I got off the highway today and was at a very long light, but enough time to feel my car making slight jerking movements and i saw the car raise a little over an inch.
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I just did my brakes and now I have this squeaking noise when going over speed bump or on uneven surface at low speed. I figure that the springs was decompressed when the car was jacked up and it would settle back down when the car was lower back down. Its has been over a week now and the noise is still there.
By the way, I replaced with Hawk ceramic brakes and it's great. No NOISE and NO brake DUST.
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I would prefer to drive my treg in sport mode on the air suspension because I find that I get slightly better cornering, etc. However, there are about 8 speed bumps in my normal "to gym and to work" morning drive and 5 on the way home. Some are the big wide new-style speed bumps. Some are the little narrow hard bumps. I usually leave the sus in comfort or auto because of this. Is it "bad" for the suspension to take speed bumps at a fairly good clip with the air suspension? Worse when it's tightened up for sport mode??
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I know this will sound strange, but starting the other day, I notice that it sounds like sand is hitting my Treg windshield when traveling at highway speed. At first I thought it was coming from the truck in front of me, so I passed him, and it didn't stop. It is just about all the time now, and I cannot imagine what is causing this noise.
It is not incredibly annoying, but how will I know when I am being pelted by real sand? Any clues out there? With 48,000 miles on it, there is not much time left to get it under warranty.
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Our V6 just turned 40k and it's developed some interesting sounds. First of all, from time to time at highway speed a whirring/whinning sound has developed. I was driving down the road the other night, no rain, about 60 degrees temp outside, and between 50 and 80 mph this noise seemed constant. I turned off the radio, turned off the climate control and the problem still existed.
It *sounds* like a drive train noise (my old jeep would make a sound when it was in a low gear that is similar). Second, also intermittent, a clicking relay from inside the dash on the drivers side. The frequency and rate are inconsistent and I can't correlate it to anything happening while driving.. just highway driving.
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Owned my 2009 for 6 months now. Ever since purchasing it, car will vibrate significantly at highway speeds when first driving it, then decrease by 90% after a few miles. At first, since I purchased in winter, thought it was cold flat spots on tires. Dealer changed tires 3 times, finally with a new set of Turanza OEM tires. Still does it.
Service manager said he drove new 460's and they all do the same thing for a few miles. I have seen other comments on internet from other owners who report the same phenomenon. Don't think it is the tires since we went through 3 sets and it still does it in the summer. What else could cause a vibration until the car is warmed up?
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I've owned this Civic since new, now at 153K miles. This is a recurring problem that I've been having for over a year. First symptom was there would be no heat coming from the heater at idle with the motor well warmed up. Add some rpm's and the heat returned. The reason was not enough coolant in the system, filled up radiator and all OK. Then it happened again and there is coolant in the overflow tank, but pull the radiator cap and no fluid under cap. Fill radiator and all OK, but it kept happening. I replaced the OEM radiator cap with a new "Slant" brand for an '03 Civic. No better, no worse.
Last week I had a significant overheating event while on a highway. I pulled into a "Dollar Store" parking lot, went into the store and bought 50/50 coolant and shop rags and let the car cool off for 30 min. When I pulled the cap, it was a steamy mess and I let it cool some more. Eventually I put in the coolant and finished up the drive with no more overheating. The overflow coolant container was at the "full" mark all during the overheating event.
At this point I took it to my trusted mechanic. My mechanic determined that the overflow tank was clogged and he blew out the line. So, I hoped all was fixed. But I don't think so. With the car cool this morning I pulled the radiator cap and got a swish noise indicating some pressure release. The level of coolant in the overflow contain hasn't moved. It still seems coolant is not being pulled from the overflow container back in to the radiator when the car cools off. I blew into the radiator top (where the cap goes) and that did produce lots of bubbles in the overflow tank. It seems it is no longer plugged - but why isn't the coolant behaving properly?
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My 98 F150 4WD with 83k on it has a significant pull to the right most noticeable on the highway. I have to keep the wheel turned to the left to be able to go straight. It use to be intermittent but now is constant. Had a frt end alignment done twice with no change. Recently after a long drive on the highway on a crazy hot day, I pulled into a rest area & noticed the L/F wheel was very hot to the point where I thought the plastic center cap might start melting.
The R/F wheel was only warm. This makes no sense to me because with something causing the L/F wheel to heat up I would think it would pull to the left. This has bothered me so much that I've driven with 10psi less in the L/F wheel hoping it wouldn't pull to the right so much but it had no effect. I did recently have the left upper control arm replaced because it was clunking. It was doing this pulling prior to that & it continues.
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I have an '05 F150 5.4L with 110k miles on it. Bought it used about 2-3 years ago and have had on-going ignition system problems. The current problem is a significant shudder/shake/vibration that occurs when driving 50mph+ (easy to reproduce around 65-70) on the freeway, when starting up a minor, but noticeable incline. This is an incline that doesn't require much additional throttle, and this trouble occurs with cruise control on and off. the truck starts shuddering pretty rough during the incline. However, if I release the accelerator (and go up incline with slightly lower speed) or give lots of gas on accelerator the shudder usually stops. The shudder always clears after the incline when returning to flat road and just cruising.
This occurred on a recent trip a few times and I pulled the following codes (in order):
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring): misfire on cylinder 2
I have since purchased and replaced the coil on #2. This did not resolve the problem. I have replaced coil on #6 in the last year...
Because I saw a suggestion somewhere on the net around this problem while searching, that this could be related to OD, I tried disabling OD and enabled OD on an incline today to test after replacing COP on #2 and it seemed to resolve the issue to turn OD off. Not sure if related...?
Other observation: Cab of truck often smells of gas just after starting the truck. Mentioned this to the shop, but they didn't find anything obvious.
Short history of codes and work that has been done:
Sometime in early 2011: Ford service dept did this work.
First failure was coil bad on #7. Tech swapped 7 & 8 to verify the problem followed the coil. Then when the problem DID follow the coil, he replaced #8 with new.
05/2011 MacKenzie Ford changed all plugs
12/2011 - swapped out COP on #7.
02/2012 - P0306 - Now, COP #6 is reported as bad.
November/December 2012
P2104 P Throttle Actuator Control (TAC) - Forced Idle
P2112 P TAC Stuck Close
P2111 TAC Stuck Open
I did throttle body clean - removed it and used TB cleaner. replaced...
Late December 2012 - while driving on freeway at speeds 50+, but easily reproduced around 60 after starting up a slight incline. symptom is heavy shudder/shake. Possibly resolved by turning OD off.
P0356 (once) : Ignition Coil F (6) Primary/Secondary Circuit Malfunction
P0302 (recurring) : Misfire on cylinder 2
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What are the part numbers for the REAR Sway Bar Bushing Clamp to fit a 2004 F350 Dually w/ the dana 80 axle? This is the part that surrounds holds the bushing that encompasses the sway bar holding it to the axle itself.
Found out couple weeks ago that the front and rear bushings were different heights. Meaning the ones for the front sway bar bushings were taller and the ones in the back were shorter. I can find the part numbers for the front ones pretty easily but the rear ones is like searching for the holy grail. And yes I need the shorter rear ones.
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is locking in 4m but is too high, suppose to be ~2200rpm.When I checked with vagcom the speed shown on computer show a speed with 20km/h higher than the real speed (shown at speedometer)
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I have a 2009 Corolla S. When I drive on the highway and the road dips and then comes back up, I hear a crunching sound as the wheels come back up. It almost sounds like springs. I thought maybe it was the cold weather but it isn't. The sound is in the front end.
At 53,000 miles, it seems early for this kind of problem and I never have had this so early in the life of a car. I do have the Toyota Extended Warranty of 125000 miles and 8 years. Would this be covered under that?
It doesn't really happen over bumps, it's when the car dips down and comes back up on the highway...50 mph or more.
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V8, approx. 12 K miles. Noticed lately that after the car sits overnight or maybe 2 days overnight, that when I start the car in the morning, there is significant smoke, actually a cloud. Value seals? How do I get VW to fix this problem? I am thinking about bringing a picture to the dealer when I start the car?
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I have a question about my 2001 Ford F250 and the scary road sway I experience on the highway.
I thought it was the garbage and nearly bald tires and the fact that the fronts were bigger than the back, (Previous Owner). I went and got new E rated 265's from Discount Tire.
It actually made the swat feel worse. I thought maybe the tire guys inflated them all to 80 PSI as the sidewalls indicated. I check today and found that they went with the recommended PSI on the door sticker. 60 Front and 80 rear. But this is for the Tire size listed on the sticker.
After the tires cooled here at home I increased the PSI to 80 all the way around. I am having trouble finding my specific problem even though there is a lot of talk in many forums about this issue.
If this does not work should I try lower PSI in the rears and leave the front at 80? Should I try a front steering stabilizer shock? I did tighten up the steering box and took the minor slop out of it, Not is just makes it respond to the sway correction quicker.
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I have a 2004 Touareg V8 (55K miles). Recently I've noted significant rain drippage from the overhead console (sunroof equipped). I've reviewed this forum and note some previous communications regarding similar leakage, which apparently was attributable to poor seals between the outer skin and the sunroof structure (and there has been a TSB released for cars under New Car Warranty).
Is there a system of drains that are accessible (as in my 2000 Jetta, which drains through channels in the door posts) which could become clogged, and which I could unclog (as in my Jetta), before I spend the money and hassle of taking my Touareg to the dealer/service person?
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car shimmies on highway at 60 mph or higher. Can feel it in steering wheel. Could it be a wheel balance problem?
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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But i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
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