Touareg :: Accelerator Will Quit For About Two To Three Seconds
Oct 18, 2003
Car is a V-8 and about two weeks after purchase, the car developed a problem whereby the accelerator will quit for about two to three seconds. This only happens when I slow to a near stop, not a full stop and then pull away. This is not to be confused with the normal downshifting hesitation which is short in duration. This happens regularly, but I have had several encounters when I was crossing a busy street, rolled into it, punched the gas and wound up sitting in the middle of oncoming traffic. Nice! The dealer says everything is fine on the computer and that this is a safety feature that VW built into the car to stop wheel spin, but it happens with the ESP deactivated as well.
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I purchased a certified automatic 2013 Mini Cooper a week ago. After a total of 254 miles driven off the lot, the accelerator quit responding in the middle of an intersection. I was attempting to make a left turn. Only the accelerator quit functioning, everything else seemed ok. The engine didn't even rev when the pedal was pushed to the floor. I was pushed out of the intersection and shut off the car. When I restarted it the gas pedal was operational. No codes presented, and the dealership couldn't detect codes on their equipment. They sent the info to the MINI technical department (their engineering team) who said it was a software issue. The service rep who passed this on to me said that the Techs data showed there was an "error" which caused the failure, they could verify that using the data, and that a software update would be done to correct the problem. However, the MINI service department will only document on the paperwork that an update was done, they will not document the error in writing. Seem weird? I have serious doubts about this car in our brief history together.
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I have a 2002 ford taurus. It has the 3.0 ohv engine. The heater has quit working. I recently flushed the coolant system as well as the heater core and replaced the thermostat with no change in the heat situation. It will blow warm air for about 30 to 45 seconds then turns cool .
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My Egg's only a week old and every time i start and get going i get this rattle(and bit of noise) thru the accelerator pedal after a few seconds- just once only and never again until I completely stop and restart to move again.
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V10 TDI doesnt give any boost when accelerator pedal is flattenned. What could be wrong.
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A lady friend of mine got a '99 7.3 CCLB auto dually in a divorce. She doesn't drive it but starts it once a week and yesterday it wouldn't start. It cranked about 10/15sec (after waiting for WTS light to go out) before it sputtered and tried to start but it quit. Then it cranked another 10sec or so and the batteries died. It was about 85deg so it should have started w/o GPs.
Watching the voltmeter, GPs seemed to draw current. There's a lot of corrosion on both batteries so I know that needs to be cleaned up. Assuming the batteries aren't shot, after cleaning the corrosion, is it safe to hook jumper cables to a car to charge the batteries, but disconnect the jumper cables before starting the truck? Or should I use a plug in AC charger? I've never jumped a dual battery vehicle - not even my own 7.3.
She wants to sell it but it's in pretty rough condition - possibly normal for that age with 160K on a work truck. It was used in a business she had with her ex. The valley of death has some wet fuel in it and there is a film of diesel on the fuel bowl, fuel lines and wiring in the vicinity. I could smell the fuel before I opened the hood or tried to start it and it hadn't been run in a week. She says it runs fine and uses no oil but is always rough to start. It rolls rather than barks to life. It's bone stock with flat factory downpipe and airbox.
The engine cover is missing. Connectors and wiring on top of the valve covers appear new. She looked up the value and says it books for $7200 on KBB in its current condition. It was always parked in the sun here in Albuquerque and it shows. Body looks good as far as no rust or dents, but the white paint is faded (flat looking) and the blue interior is also pretty rough with 40/20/40 front seat and cracked dash. If I get it running I'll post it in the for sale section if she doesn't find a local buyer by then.
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I have been hearing a muffled thud or knocking noise often, especially when letting off of the accellerator when coming to a stop...almost sounds like some kind of bracket might be broken and some part is slapping against another. No particular consistency in the pattern of the sound...very strange. I had the car in for service to replace the stepper motor and the tech indicated he thought changing it would take care of it...it didn't.
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I experience a sound, like a one stroke scrape of a piece of cardboard across sandpaper, after driving off 20/30 feet after starting the T-reg. I discussed this with the VW tech, and he said something about the drive by wire system engages something, and creates the scraping sound, VW thinks this is normal, and there is no fix for this.
What is this scraping sound? The sound happens once and only once every start of a journey, happens even when I am going straight ahead, and at slow speeds (about 20km/hr).
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We bought my wife's V8 2005 Treg new in December of 2006. It had sat on the lot of the dealership with several others so they were doing what they could to get rid of them. Anyway, it has been awesome, with a few electronic issues, but the one problem that will not go away deals with the brakes. They squeak all of the time and the Treg only has 13,000 miles. It seems that it goes away right after a carwash, or if I intentionally brake very hard. The dealership has inspected the brakes and states that nothing is wrong and that this just happens.
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My front wipers have quit and have seen a similar thread a while ago indicating that this is something others have encountered. This happened once before about a month ago, and they started up again a few days later. So I don't think it is the motor. The back ones work, the fluid works, but no fronts.
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My wife told me the other day her keyless entry quit working on our 04 touareg. The remotes still work but only at close range (I just read the sticky about this) but when you grab the handle and the door is locked it doesn't unlock any more. Also when the car is unlocked and you shut the door and press the black button on the handle the car does not lock anymore. I really liked that feature and had just showed it to her and then she tells me it quit working. I would rather not take it to the dealer if I can fix it myself. I looked in the settings and didn't see anything ...
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Defroster/heater fans quit without warning. Heat continues to flow from vents but volume not enough to keep windows defrosted. All fuses fine.
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I did STFA, but no love. Cruise quit, EPC light on, Intermittent power loss. I checked all the fluids (ok), cleared the codes and drove it. all the stuff came back. I have a 2004...
Vag says:
Thursday,04,May,2006,19:20:22
VAG-COM Version: Release 512.4-UD
Chassis Type: 7L - VW Touareg
Scan: 01 02 03 05 06 08 09 11 15 16 17 18 19 1C 22 29 32 34 36 37
39 46 47 55 56 57 64 65 68 69 6C 6E 75 76 77
[Code] ......
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My radio just quit playing sound. The fuses are good, the monitor works, the nav works, the radio display works. But I ain't got no sound.
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Troubleshooting a headlight problem on a 2004 V8 Touareg. Driver's side xenon low beam flickered rapidly and then quit working. I replaced xenon bulb with OEM part, still not working. Swapped in known good bulb from passenger's side, still not working. Took to dealership, who said it needed new ballast, which dealer would be happy to install for a mere $900 in parts and labor. Declined dealer's offer, ordered new replacement OEM ballast (from Chrysler dealer for several hundred less than VW), installed new ballast, still not working. Cleared all fault codes using VAG-COM, still not working. Swapped in known good ballast from passenger's side headlight, still not working. Auto-leveling is still working in both lights. So...not the bulb, not the ballast. Wiring harness, perhaps?
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My wife called today. After she shut off the car today (13F and 2" snow today), she "says" the car stayed on for 10-15 seconds before it went quiet. I'm assuming it was fan noise, since I don't see how the car can stay running if the key was removed. She didn't have the REST button set. What is "staying on". Haven't heard this before today.
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Not really sure where to go with this one. Was going to start with the fuel filter but I am not sure where it is at?
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My 04 Touareg V-6 will start, but will die about 10 seconds after or if I give it gas. I'm pretty sure it's one of the fuel pumps just not sure which one.
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I have a problem that my Treg makes a terrible grinding noise when starting in the morning. It sounds almost like a bad bearing or something. It lasts anywhere from 3 to 8 seconds.
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We love our Treg, but I am not happy about the clatter (like not lube for a second or two) when starting in the morning. Temps are warm this time of year. Otherwise, everything OK.
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I have an 07 v6 3.6L (50Kmi) that makes screeching sound upon startup for 15-30 seconds. Not belt/pulley noise, more like valve lifters without oil noise. Trying to decide whether to go to the dealer before the power train warranty expires or to leave it alone.
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