Touareg :: AC Frozen On High Humidity Days And Won't Allow Any Air To Come Out
Jan 2, 2005
Just got back from a roadtrip. The AC problem is back again, it will freeze on high humidity days and won't allow any air to come out. I had this problem before and i thought the Windshield TSB fix this problem too.. I guess not.
Did some search, seems like the only fix is to cycle the ECON and AUTO to allow warmer air to unfreeze the condenser to allow cool air to enter again. Just want to check to see if the dealer actually fixed it? I mentioned this to the dealership last time and all they told me was "can't produce the problem"..
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I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that -- after my neice's husband ran the car out of gas -- we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don't want to go into debt for a car, and I don't want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don't need my car for work -- just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
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1995 Honda EX with 150,000 miles. Its been running rough ie rough idle, stalling at low rpms etc Additionally for awhile now when humidy reached north of 85% the car wont start. It cranks but rarely runs.
Took it to a mechanic last week for a tuneup. They replaced the Distributor cap, spark plug and wires and fuel filter. Car ran great for a day. Then progressively got worse. Was undriveable the other day stalling misfiring while at speed. Took it back today. They determined that it was still not getting spark and replaced the distributor. They did so, test drove it, declared it good and I came to pick it up. Paid the bill, walked out to the car and the damn thing would not start. Humidity was high.
Mechanic pulled a spark plug and put a tester in and didn't get a spark when cranking. He is assuming the distributor he just put in is bad. So they are keeping the car overnight to be fixed in the morning with a new distributor.
However I'm not convinced the dizzy is bad, I believe, as I've read that the Honda's ECU is probably bad and shorting out in the high humidity. Can a bad ECU would prevent spark?
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This past week there was 3 days where it didn't get above freezing. For some of you this is normal but this hardly never happens. It gets below freezing, but doesn't stay there for an extended period of time. Anyhow, my doors where frozen shut and I kept pulling and pulling and I couldn't get the door open. It felt like I almost pulled the door handle out of the car. I was going to pour hot water on the door, but my mom told me that it would crack the window or something like that.
The way I got it open was I kept pulling and pushing and pulling and pushing. I pulled up on the door and I guess it broke the ice. This way took entirely too long.
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I garage, but on two occasions, once left out overnight, other at the airport for a week, the side windows were frozen shut. After the Treg warmed up, they would open, but seemed to be frozen at the bottom weatherstrip. Are others having this problem? I love this truck !
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My air conditioning has stopped working and the dealer tells me the blower motor has frozen up. This car only has 73k on it. Is this common to the 2005 Touareg or ?????
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-1 (-20 wind chill) here in South Bend this morning, and the Touareg did not like it. All but the drivers door frozen shut. All power windows frozen shut. Defective tyre warning went off once, and then check tyre pressure has stayed on. Wonder what She would do to me if She was not in a garage. The heated seats worked great, how I would have loved to have the heated steering wheel this morning.
This weather is heading East, hope you all on the coast are ready.
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I hear the electrical activity of the door lock mechanism.....locking and unlocking the door but the door latch is "frozen" closed and will not release. Inner and/or exterior door handles fail to release the latch no matter how many times they are pulled. Red Led on the top of the door pannel functions normally.
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Am back to VW. This time with a 05 Touareg. The truck was sitting for more than 3 days with dead battery and now the NAV will not turn on.
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Well the dealer has had my car for over a week. Battery died after spending 2 days in the garage. Not sure if the alarm was set. Anyway, I am getting the nonsense that the car draws approx. 6 amps when sitting, and a lot less when the alarm is armed. They checked the amp which is not a serial number for which they said has problems. I still do not believe the car draws this much power but this is not the point, I believe all of the control modules should go into the 'sleep' mode at some time.
Tomorrow, I will go down to the dealer and ask them to run the tests in front of me, with the doors locked and alarm armed, and then left unlocked key not in ignition. If there is a high draw on the unlocked scenario I will then asked them to tell me which modules are drawing power and at what level. I will then asked them to duplicate the same scenario with the car armed and locked. Any other test which could be? How long does it take for the various modules to enter the sleep mode?
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I did a few searches with key words, engine, valves, and knock but didn't come up with any info. I know the reason the valves and engine noise is louder than usual is because the oil has had ample time to gravitate to the bottom of the engine. I remember reading some where that the knocking valves when starting up was normal for the Touareg, but can't find the post.
My question is, the engine is too noisy when cold starting? The knocks go away in less than a min or so, but I haven't had a vehicle make such valve noise when cold starting, except older cars that needed valve jobs... Other than the start up knocks.. it sounds and drives great..
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How to get rid of humidity in headlight to stop condensation? I was installing LDRs and needed to hook up a wire to the side markers, when i put back the rubber on the back of the headlight i must of done it wrong because its not there anymore so i guess its sitting somewhere on the bottom of the engine bay.
However now some water must of gone in and my headlight looks like this : FILE0004 (2) by SpikeyBoi33, on Flickr ....
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I bought some stock headlights that were retrofitted with projectors. The re-seals seem on but after a decent rain the right side light is completely fogged inside. I have taken the back cap off and it will dry out after a day in the sun but should not do this. What's causing this and is it fixable or not??
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The humidity has an affect on my MPG. I noticed that my MPG went from 49 - 52 MPG down to 44 - 46 MPG when the heat & humidity started here in June. Yesterday a cold front came through and the humidity dropped. I filled my tank up and noticed my MPG is back up to 49 MPG, so the only thing that is different is the humidity. The cold & humidity does affect the MPG (approx 4 - 6 MPG).
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So I can't figure out what is causing my a/c to randomly stop working,it's not leaking or freezing up and it's not the clutch or fuse and so on. What it does is basically it transitions from cool humidity free air to warmer humid air It's been in two different shops and produces no error messages either,however when it does it if you turn the car off and start it again it starts working fine. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what it is!
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I always have humidity marks on the black portion of my interior door handle area and it seems like the water that gets in the door doesn't flow out completely. It kinda pools at the bottom in between the 3 small holes at the inside bottom of the door. The drain holes are clean but it seems there is a lip the water gets caught on.
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I just got my v8 3 days ago and when i floor it its almost as if the exhaust is back fire but like a rattling noise it does it in neutral and if I'm driving, Is this just because its new or should it be going in for service already??
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I have noticed a high-pitched whine coming from the front end at high speeds. Above 90-95 mph any use of the accelerator results in a high-pitched noise, unrelated to RPMs. Past 120 it starts sounding pretty bad/loud. My guess is that the fuel pump is sucking so much gas that it is having issues, or the throttle control is just unhappy in that range.
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When driving at night I often get high beams flashed at me by oncomming traffic who mistakenly believe I'm running my high beams. I thought the headlights (xenons) were self levelling. Do I need to adjust them?
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I have an 04' Touareg V8 that I have owned since new. It currently has 97k miles. It recently has developed a high pitched hum that seems to come on at 30mph+. The sound seems to come from the middle of the car. The car is at the dealer and I want to hear some unbiased post regarding this.
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I am a V8 owner and have about 6,000miles on the car...recently the car has been making really high pitch exhaust sounds (rasp/high pitch/weird) @ WOT...it did not do this before...
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