Touareg :: AC Fans Do Not Start Right Away
Oct 30, 2003
When I start the T-Reg for the first time, shouldn't the fans blow out hard and then die down when the proper temperature is achieved? For the past 2 days, I'v pulled out of the garage and I can hear the fan noise blowing hard but there's nothing coming out of the AC vents. I keep the setting on Auto 72 deg. Once I fool around with the fan settings, then the AC comes on and stays on for the rest of the day.
I remember the fans came on strong when I had the Jetta and then in two or three minutes, they regulated the temp and died down a bit. Does it take a long time for the fans to come up on Auto, or is something not right?
Within 5 minutes it seems to work and they're cool, but until it starts working, I hear the fan noise but feel nothing. I have the vents opened fully, or should they be set in the middle?
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I own a 2004 V6 Touareg as I have been going to the dealership for the last three months now and they cant solve the problem.
Once I start my car in the morning, immediately both cooling fans start running and they wont stop until I shut down the car, it takes them about 10 min to shut down.
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Defroster/heater fans quit without warning. Heat continues to flow from vents but volume not enough to keep windows defrosted. All fuses fine.
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Well I noticed the fans are running at shutdown, then next day check engine light plus the jack light which I was able to turn off. I have had the same symptoms several months ago and they went away. Now its back.
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Believe an engine temperature sensor is bad. I took it in to get a code read, and they said it could be either temp sensor or fan switch, but didn't know which one without newer software.
Codes are
19537 - Engine Temperate too Low
P3081 - 008 - Implausible Signal
I've checked the fuse legend to see if there is a fuse I can pull, but none of them marked fan seem to kill it after the car is off, so that I can save some battery power.
I believe that I have narrowed it down to the engine coolant temperature sensor. What is the level of job this is to replace? From a parts location manual, it looks like it is in the Thermostat housing, but I'm not sure where that is.
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Why recently the fan comes on when I start the car, then a few seconds later it turns off, then a few seconds later it's on regardless of outside temp or engine temp? Is this simply caused by a malfunctioning green coolant temp sensor? What type of electrical Gremlin causes our cooling fans to cycle "on" and then "off" every three seconds?!
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The two Radiator fans are always running even at start up on a cold day. I have not had time to investigate as yet but I am assuming it is the temperature sensor located near the thermostat or a relay. No CEL on. What it likely is and how to approach the trouble shooting?
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After about 10-15 minutes, following a cold start, this 2007 BMW X3 3.0 six does the following:
1) automatic cabin fan behaves erratically, jumping back and forth between low and high speeds;
2) cabin air does not heat;
3) electric radiator fans run on high;
4) coolant temp rises to normal, but then will suddenly jump up to full hot.
At this point, driver of course pulls over and shuts off engine. The amazing part is this: the engine can be re-started IMMEDIATELY and all of the above problems vanish instantly. Radiator fans shut off, temp returns to normal, cabin fan works normally, and cabin heat comes on. I'm thinking sticking thermostat, but why does shutting off the car momentarily fix it? Change of water pressure when coolant pump stops running?
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At one point over the weekend when I started the truck, I got a warning to check the lights, and noticed that the passenger Xenon headlamp was not working in either DRL or full on position. Strange. I shut the car off and restarted and it's been working since.
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My R now has 78k on the clock so I guess it's time for the obligatory issues with the radiator fans. My car started running hot from time to time, not constantly. Brief explanation of the issues and my "diagnosis" for each:
Without the A/C turned on the fans don't come on - when I turn the A/C the passenger side comes on all the time (faulty switch). Driver's side fan is intermittent - usually it turns on with the a/c but if it doesn't a tap on the center with the lug wrench gets it spinning (stuck brush).
The main thing I want to make sure is that it's not a thermostat issue as well (or instead of the switch). The heat works fine - I've been blasting it every time I hit traffic on my way home just to ensure that the car doesn't overheat. My assumption was that if the heat works then the thermostat is opening to allow the coolant into the heater core.
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I have changed all fuses and even the temp sensor to the green one. My fans wont kick on unless I put on the AC. Where is the fan control module?
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So once I start the car the fans kick on, and stay on, even when off. The car currently has no coolant in it and it is not being ran longer than to simply start it. I am guessing the fan control module is no good? Anything else to look for? The car has a new green coolant sensor and the coolant res. is deleted.
Also, what resistor to remove the coolant level sensor? I would like to rid my dash of that annoying light.
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I have an 04 T-reg w/ 15k miles on it, the problem that i am having is with the A/C. It works for the most part but some days its just not that cold. Usually when idling or after returning to the car after 30 minutes or so the a/c just doesn't seem to recover. Its not warm air but its certainly now cold air.
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I got my V8 back from a dead battery for the 2nd time. As usual, they have not found the problem. They said that there isn't any battery drain and the battery holds a charge. This time I took it back to my dealer I purchased from, not that it means anything.
I know there have been a lot of talk about different things that are causing the problem/ fixing the problem, but I have noticed that it may not be some of the ECU's, Navi/radio, etc. but could it be that when the vehicle is actually running the Alternator may not be charging the system significantly while driving when things are turned on, as in multiple things like AC/Heater, Fogs, heated seats, etc at the same time? Reason is that I have noticed with my V8, if you turn off all of these things the voltage gauge reads very close to 14 Volts and when you turn them on, it drops/cycles to about 13.75-13.5 volts. The dealer loaned me a V6 Touareg and with all these things on, the Voltage Gauge read 14 Volts solid most of the time or pretty close to. Meaning that the Alternator may be keeping up with all the things turned on (Current Draw).
With my V8, if you have these things on and you are running around town starting/ stopping without driving it for a period of time the Alternator may not be sufficiently charging the battery and then when you park it like overnight with the normal drain on the system in off state you may not be able to start it. Could there be something there or am I way off? Since they are always looking at the battery and if there is any drain on the system when it's off, is the alternator keeping up with the Touareg's requirements when it is running?
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MY V8 Touareg with P+, Nav etc is in the shop today...My wife went to start it yesterday and the car completely went crazy...it would not start, the lights went crazy and finally the key was locked in the ignition....This is the second time this has happened...I'm getting pretty frustrated. Dealer was no support, they think we don't know how to start the car!
Anyway, looking into my State Lemon Law. Car is great, but don't want to spend $50K on a car that won't start and cause so many issues! Roadside has been called twice thus far. Tha car has 1,900 miles on it. The Tire gauge does not work, the memory seats don't work. I think the car is great, but too many issues.
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Well I have a 2004 Gremlin that has gone through all the fixes (alternator cable, battery, even replaced some control module) go into car and won't turn over nothing.
See reports to reset the yellow battery isolation switch. Where the hell is this? What carpet do you remove? I tried to find it and no luck. There are those two panels on the floor (one on right side of chair and one on left corner) but those apparently are to access the battery tilt the chair back.
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Ok I thought I remembered reading about this in the past. This morning I detailed the V8 T (19K miles) and started it to back it out of the garage. Got a big puff of blue/white smoke out the back. I searched but found nothing. Should I finally run to the nearest BMW dealer for an X5?
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got my 2004 v8 fully loaded back in 2004 and quickly purchased the keyless start kit from spock.. been enjoying it ever since.. just passed 60,000 miles and keyless entry (where you just touch the handle to unlock) AND keyless start stopped working. car is at the dealership for the 60,000 mile service and having them look at it. they say that the keyless controller module is throwing error codes re: the signal and needs to be replaced... parts and labor $1,115!!! and, of course, the warranty went out at 50,000 miles.
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I have an 04 touareg, When I start to accelerate at about 15-20 mpg, it jerks the vehicle once and again at about 40mph. What is wrong?
Another question, when I start to brake and then car jerks once at about 25-30mph, is there something wrong with my brakes?
I went to Volkswagen and they did a check and they said nothing was wrong. I still feel the jerk after the inspection.
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I was considering getting a keyless start to preclude the considerable stinky smoke that occurs upon start up in the winter mornings. But it does this in the summer mornings too? How do you know if a keyless start would prevent this from happening?
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After parking my car last night, this morning the key wouldn't work. So I manually opened the car door, and try to start the car. Nothing came on, even the clock. And now the key is stuck in the ignition.
It cant be the battery, because I think it should at least have enough juice to turn the light on.
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