Touareg :: AC Did Not Work After Driving For 20 To 25 Minutes
Apr 22, 2011
2005-V6 with 83k miles. The A/C did not work after driving 20 to 25 minutes when the temperature hits 85 degrees. Usually did not work all day but started to work fine the next day and if temperature did not reach 80 degrees, will work all day.
The compressor did make a humming noise that you can hear with the window close.
Finally took the car when the A/C was not working and they saw it at the dealer. After a week I got a call today that the temperature sensor was bad, they are testing and should be ready tomorrow.
Will that fix the issues? what about the noise coming from the compressor.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT with 94k miles. On cold mornings I have consistent problems with the car's electronics. They can be as benign as a warning bell about 2-3 minutes after starting driving. Sometimes, one of the warning lights will accompany the bell (power steering, traction control, etc), and then return to normal. Some mornings, all of the gauges will not work/stop working for the first 2-3 minutes of driving and then return to normal. The worst case scenario is that the car will not start at all. All lights, radio, etc. will work, but the car will not crank. I have had the car to a couple of shops where they have tested the battery and starter.
Both are new and working fine. No codes are ever generated. My question is how can I go about isolating what appears to be an electrical (or electronic) fault somewhere in the system that gets aggravated by cold weather. I read in another forum that the ignition system in other GM cars (the Saturn ION was one example) would trigger a fault in the ignition system in cold weather and the KeyPass security system would shut down the ignition for 10 minutes. For me, it's only occasional that the car will not start, but there is some electrical issue most every day that it's below 40 overnight. I have never had an issue after the car has started once during the day - this only happens on the first start of the day. Only once did the car go 2 days without starting.
1. Battery cables?
2. fuses?
3. etc.?
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My tire pressure monitor is acting funky again in cold weather. For the past few days when the weather is around 30s i get flat tyre warning when i first start my car. then after drive for about 5 minutes, it goes away. Seems like once the tire warms up the warning disappeared.
I have standard 18" wheels... currently the tire reading from the MFI is 34 front 37 back. I remember i had them set in the summer for 37 front and 42 back. Should I put more air in? is that why?
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My TMPS as recently randomly tells me after about 5 minutes of driving that there is a flat tire. Stopping and checking the Inflation (warm type) shows the typical ~ +2 psi and no faults (or warnings) like long term -3psi or when I physically let the air out of the tire to test it. Physical test of the tire pressures confirms that they are all about ~+2psi after driving for 5-10 minutes.
No, there are no nail in the tires.
Yes, they pass the soap bubble test.
Yes, they hold the inflated pressures for weeks (both on TPMS cold and warm types) AND physical checks with TWO types of pressure gauges.
Yes, I have retrained several times after complete overnight cool down (~55F) and verification of physical pressure.
I though it my be RF interference with the TMPS (almost the same area after getting on the highway from 10 blocks of stop and go city streets) but it also randomly does it on city streets and sometimes after only 1 minute. No internal changes to the car electronics. No changes to mobile phone or location in car. Do these valve stems have batteries ? If the battery is low, is there an indicator of such ?
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I have on '06 V6. This slight rattle/vibration only happens during the first 5 minutes of driving, and only starts AS am driving down a slight hill from our development. It doesn't seem mechanical. It just sounds like an interior piece is loose. It seems to be coming from the center console or passenger seat area. It doesn't happen everyday. Once I am on the highway, flat area or after a few minutes it's gone. I have shuffled everything around in the center storage area, glove compartment, seat belt - nothing.
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@75000 miles my first check engine light. Here are my symptoms......
~After i shut the car off the fan keeps on blowing at a very high rate as if the car is over heating, its currently 45-50 degrees.
~On cold morning when i start the car up and turn the steering wheel I hear a very loud whining sound, but after driving for about 20 min and the car has warmed up the sound goes away.
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My Ac comes on normally and will work for about 30 mins, then it just shuts off and blows warm air. If I shut the motor off and restart it, it will work again. I heard it could be the Clutch coil when it get hot will shut off. I have changed a relay also.
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I have Australian Camry 2011 and there is a weird problem in the air conditioner, the issue happens when my car was sitting out in the parking for more than 4 hours the ac blows a hot air for 5 minutes then it's work fine and blows cold air and if i turn the ac off and on its blows a cold air immediately. I can't understand the reason of this issue ....
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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I had to drive 70 miles last week the temp outside was 98. My air conditioner was blowing cold air, I parked my car for 30 minutes. When I started my car again the air would not work, no blower nothing. I was on my way to have it tested, turned it on and it is working and blowing cold air. I do not to be stuck again traveling and it stop.
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Our 2004 V8 w/air susp bounces up and down when idling in park for more than a minute or so. At first we sent it to the dealer as a rough idle problem. They sent the car back as normal.
The "bouncing" is just that; the car vibrates in only the vertical axis. Most V8 roughness is mostly rotational and V8's with rough idle usually rock the car on it's longitudinal axis. Also, feeding in a few hundred rpm doesn't change the period of the bounce. So, it's RPM independent. Rules out the enging, doesn't it?
The bouncing is enough to jiggle keys on the dash. I'm wondering if the air suspension could be the culprit. I tried changing the ride height while bouncing and the behavior stopped until the car settled at the new height. That's what leads me to suspect some sensor failure in the air susp.
2004 V8, Air Susp, No Nav
2003 GTi 1.8T
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2004 Toureg with 12,000 Miles. No problems for 5 months. All of a sudden the engine fan has become posessed. When I park - even after 5 min of driving in cool Colorado weather - the fan kicks off and stays on for 10 to 20 min. The sucker is LOUD! I could not find any info on the fan in this forum. Having problems with the engine fan. I called the dealer and he said there no problem. (Also, the blue compas above the mirror was flashing on and off tonight. Bad, but I hope not related.)
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The oil pressure gauge in my 04 v8 treg doesn't move until I drive it for about 15 minutes. Is this normal?? When THE BEAST is idling it takes about 15 minutes to pass 60 on the oil pressure gauge. I find this very odd.
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The headlights went out on the automatic "arrive home mode" more than the programmed 15 seconds. The interior overhead and foot lights took as much as 5 minutes to cease and desist.
V6, silver/gray
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After several checks and resets , my Touareg clocks are fast by about 2 min/week. No other electrical problems. Not a known problem with my dealer. Clocks aren't hi-tech ... MFI may have clock module- seems overkill to change it.
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My 2004 v8 with 100,000 miles is running hot. The fluids are all topped off. When I start it up she warms up normally in around 5-10 minutes and the water is 200 but as the oil temp comes up the water goes up as well. After 15 minutes of driving the oil is at 200-220 and the water is 230-245. the fans are coming on but so far no lights or warnings.
Is this the sign of emanate water pump failure? I think the thermostat is OK because for the first 5-10 minutes it runs normally. Putting the heater on get the temp down a little. I am thinking I should drive my truck and order the timing belt, water pump kit! Is it possible that the oil pump or system isn't functioning properly?
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My check engine light has come on, and I have white smoke coming from under my hood when I drive. I'm trying to diagnose this and fix it. My mechanic had my car for a whole day and told me he needed more time to find out what it is.
My car is a 2002 chevy impala, and the smoke only comes after about 10 minutes of driving, and only lasts for about five minutes. When I open my hood, it seems the smoke is coming from the right side of my engine, maybe underneath, but it's hard to tell, but when I look just below the right side of the engine it does look to be a little bit wet down there. The smoke has a kind of sweet smell. So far, the car is still running fine.
The smoke only comes the first time I drive my car for the day.
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I can't quite owkr out what is going on, but my A/C sometimes seems to be working too well and other not so good. For instance, last night I got in the car, 95 outside, and inside the A/C was going flat out (set to 65). The air from the middle vent on the passager side was very cold, from the drivers side it did not even feel cold and in the back also not cold. After 10 minutes of driving the car was barely acceptable. Went flying for 2 hours, came back, now temp outside was down to 90 and the car got cold very quickly (<5 mins).
In summary it would appear that if I do a lot of stop start driving, the A/C looses efficiency.
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My 97 Celica GT runs fine , battery is solid, no fuel delivery issues, timing is good, no backfires, new air filter, but when I have been driving around for like 20 mins and park for 15-20 or so I have trouble starting up, I have to keep trying and eventually it will kick in, but last night when I got home I tested it by letting it sit for about 20 mins and tried to start no dice, tried few times, then after cooling off over night, it started right up today with no problem. I remember a mechanic that was working on it said it could be a IC chip that could be overheating, I'm also concerned that it could be an engine or ignition component that is overheating and once it cools it's easy to start.
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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Today I had been driving about ten minutes when I got a "Check Gas Cap" warning, inclusive of beep and appropriate icon. Pulled over, switched off but left key in (this is equivalent to a warm boot in my experience), opened gas cap and closed again (it was fine). Turned engine on, got same message, remained on until destination (approximately 20 minute drive). Parked and locked car for approximately 2 hours (equivalent to a cold boot). When I turned on the engine again, the message was gone, and remained off for the rest of the day.
The car had been sitting unused in a heated garage for a little over two weeks, and the weather today was nice, sunny, a few degrees above freezing.
In my view, it clearly was not related to the classic "fuel cap not tight enough" problem of modern cars: for one, I had not just refueled (in fact, I have a little over half a tank). Also, I always tighten the cap until I hear at least a few clicks. SO I wonder if it might be an early warning that my maintenance battery is getting weak, i.e. spurious error message triggered by low voltage?
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