Touareg :: 2006 V10 - No AC / Fan Blows But Hot Air Only
Apr 16, 2008
As the weather here on the east coast is starting to warm I decided to run the A/C. Well low and behold it blows warm air, regardless of what I do. I put it to LO, nothing. I made sure to turn ECON off, nothing, I even tried to cycle the ECON button but it doesn't seem like the compressor is being turned on.
Will be calling the dealer tomorrow, it is well within warranty. Just sucks I have to deal with this, plus I see that there is a TSB out but it only lists codes as to why the compressor, if that is the problem, is not on.
What was done to resolve? The A/C last summer worked fabulously??? So I hope it is not a coolant leak or something like that, hope it is just a faulty sensor or switch.
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I have a dual zone climatronic in my 04, I just noticed it last night that regardless of what temperature setting the passenger side is in, it just blows cold air. Winter is fast approaching.
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The AC blows very cold as long as the outside temp is 88-87 and cooler. As soon as it goes over 89 or so, the air rapidly warms eventually blowing what feels like air HOTTER than the outside ambient. No matter if i shut it down or blow warm air it will not restart until the temperature outside drops below the magic mark (so i dont think the coil is freezing over)... and then it blows frigid air. I don't think it is low refrigerant because of the efficiency at cooler temps and the nearly exact outside temp it changes. It is as if a sensor is activated and nothing but a temperature drop changes its status. It is so predictable that to me it sounds like a sensor or kill switch that is activated. One fan was out. had it replaced and still have the problem. This has been going on all summer and VW stamps everything "could not replicate". 2004 touareg vs 80k miles (with plenty of troubles along the way)....
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So last summer I had the AC recharged. Worked great. I only ran the AC about twice over the winter to lub the seals (about 30 sec) prob not long enough but anyway.
I used the AC this month a couple of times briefly and it seemed to work just as well but today I get NOTHING except hot air. I cleaned the cabin filter, it sounds like the compressor comes on cause I know it makes that kick sound a few secs after hitting the AC button which illuminates. I took a quick look around but didn't see any leaks. fuse looked ok. I noticed the Low pressure line is wrapped.. do i have to take that off to check for leaks?
Does this sound like the refrigerant is low again after only like 6 months. If it worked great last week now nothing does that seem like the issue? Thinking of just filling up from autozone myself. I've also have a bad BCM with intermittent light/dash/window issues which arises in heat for past 2 years.
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Every time I replace the ac fuse it blows again sometimes immediately or later it never last more than a day.
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My 2009 elantra (160 k) ac is not working. The centre of the compressor doesn't turn when the ac is turned on and I don't hear any difference in the engine when turning it on (no extra load). I don't hear any clicks or anything for that matter. It just blows hot air.
From the research i have done it seems it doesn't necessarily mean the compressor is shot. It may just mean there is a leak in the evaporator core.
Is there a way to tell if the compressor is shot? I'm hearing that replacing the compressor is at least as twice as much as the evaporator core so I would like to go into a shop knowing one way or another.
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I am recently getting no AC just warm/hot air. I have yet to pressure check the system but i believe the compressor still turns. But I did notice throughout this the vents are only giving about 60% force on heat and AC as they used to. The blower motor spins although, cleaned the cabin air filter and one pin broke when putting it back. the blower motor spins louder on the "4" setting. I am guessing this is related to no A/C since it happened the same time and i don't think that low refrigerant would cause the heat system to blow less efficiently...
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clarification: temperature control works as expected on driver side. Only hot air comes out on the passenger side.
1. Most of the problems of this sort seemed to have been solved by replacing an actuator - air blend actuator, vent door actuator, etc are the terms used. Are these all different names for the same actuator? Or are there two actuators?
2. The problems occurs regardless of the DUAL setting so I think it is unlikely to be a temperature sensor problem.
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Recently my Elantra ac will not adjust and only blows super cold air, so I have to alternate between turning it off and on constantly. Now I discovered the heater will only blow cold air. What are the possible causes?
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I have a weird issue on my 2008 Elantra. The heater starts blowing luke warm/cold air after running for about 1 hour or so and stays like that.
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Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
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I have a 2006 Toyota Sienna Van that has 111,000 miles on it. I have a problem with both the heat and a/c. If you have the heat on but are just idling, it begins to blow cool air. Likewise, if you run the a/c but are just idling the air begins to blow warm. In either case, if you rev the engine (either in park or nuetral say at a red light), the air gets warmer if the heat is on, or colder if the a/c is on. In other words, the temperature only works correctly if the rpm's are up. Could this be a stopped up heater core.
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This one has me stumped, and I can't find a rational explanation on the net but it appears to be a known problem. I have a friend with an '06 Nissan Pathfinder that has climate control with dual zones (front and rear) that fails to blow hot (in front) when the vehicle is stationary and the rear heater is on. I used to wrench for a living so I've eliminated the obvious. The front blows hot air when the vehicle is in motion and also when stationary and the rear climate controls are off. So clearly it would seem to me that the issue probably lies in the switching of ventilation ducts from hot to cold. I'm not familiar enough with the system to proffer a solution though. The way I see it it's probably a sensor at best, an issue with the climate control unit itself at worst, or some sort of bizarre mechanical malfunction involving the vents closing when they should be passing air from across the heater core to the entire interior.
I haven't spent much time diagnosing the issue mainly because I don't do it for a living anymore. Hot air comes out of the front when the car is warm, stationary, and the rear blower motor is off. My friend who isn't very technical and speaks English as a second language tells me that when the rear heat is on it blows cold in the front while the vehicle is stationary (in Park or perhaps just when stopped for an extended period i.e. at a traffic light).
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2006 Chevy 2500 Silverado heater blows hot on driver's side and cold on passenger side. None of the controls change the temp. on the passenger side.
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On my 06 GS300 135k my driver and passenger side blows different even though the temp setting is same. I have replaced Driver side Servo motor but no change. When heater setting is at 75, passenger side blows toasty, but driver side is cold. What else do I need to look at possibilities?
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I just bought a 2006 camry a few days ago and am noticing a little problem with the heat. It warms up fine when idling but blows weak and cooler when driving....there is also a slight engine noise. Not sure if related, I am by far not a mechanic. I did try to research this issue but am coming up with more of the opposite (no or weak heat idling/great heat while driving). We are replacing thermostat tomorrow. As far as other maintenance goes it seems that the previous owner just did oil changes and nothing else in the last 3 years (35k since then). Trying to do all the little things now but would like to resolve this issue while I have it in the shop.
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I have a Buick park avenue 1998, 3.8L V6 engine. the problem is: The ac vent on the driver's side blows cold air but on the passenger side blows EXTREMELY hot air. no matter how cold or hot you set the ac it blows at the same temperature on both sides. Florida heat is setting in and my passengers are melting. I am really hopping that is not something to bad and that I can fix it myself. Tip: this started happening after i had the alternator and the battery replaced.
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I have a 2006 f350 with 75k on it, has a mild sct towing tune, and 4' turbo abck dual exhaust. It recently started blowing whiteish smoke, so i did an EGR cooler and valve delete kit, and it stoppe dsmoking for a while.. coinsidence?
It has recently started again, at idle there is no smoke, and taking off slow from a stop, it doesnt ALWAYS smoke. but leaving a dead stop, if i get right into it, it billows whiteish smoke, and if im cruising, romp on it, let off it, then get on it again it will smoke.
Ive been told fuel pressure, injectors, turbo seal etc. when i had the down pipe off, no sticky black residue was present, so im counting out turbo seal (for now). I purchased the blue spring upgrade for fuel pressure, because i was told its not getting the right amount of fuel, once i get that ill throw it in and see if it fixes it.
whats yall's opinion? is it worth have it checked for a failed injector? as i said, no EGR in the truck, no loss of coolant either, oil is clean. It does seem a little sluggish at times off the line now as well.
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I just recently purchased my 06 Ford F-250 it's got the 6.0 in it once I made a 6hr trip I've noticed once you warm it up and ride a little bit kill it let set for 30min or better and crank it up it blows white smoke for a min or two than on the way to work this morning my heater.
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2006 F250 with the dash controlled 4x4. I typically keep the front hubs locked on this truck. I have recently noticed that when shifting into 4x4 that the a/c or heat will switch from blowing out of the vents to blowing out of the defrosters. Any clues how to fix this?
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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