Touareg :: 2006 - Key Less Locking / Unlocking Intermittently - Rear Courtesy Light Works Occasionally?
Dec 14, 2006
Since delivery a month ago we have had 2 minor quirks.
keyless locking/unlocking rarely works. Tried using the 2nd key for a day or so but no difference. No light in the remote or indicator in the dash telling me battery is dead...
The rear courtesy lights above the rear seats only work occasionally. All button settings seem to be set correctly to come on when th doors open but they don't . Most of the time you cant even turn them on manually but sometimes they work..
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Car worked fine yesterday. Today, I walk to my car, unlock the doors, lights work but engine won't crank. just a few very light clicks (3 -5 clicks quickly, wasn't really counting, a relay? solenoid? )
Lights work, horn works radio works. try to unlock the rear doors with the remote, but it won't. Try to open trunk with remote and it works.
Call roadside assistance, attach a battery jumper to the battery and same thing. engine doesn't crank, windows won't roll down, doors won't unlock or lock. but trunk works. radio works, lights work.
I wanted to think starter or starter solenoid but the issues with the door and windows have me puzzled. Its a 2001.5 passat v6, 5 speed, engine light is not on.
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VW New Beetle convertible 2004 ... Unlocking and locking my car via the remote largely stopped working (with my main key and the spare). I took the car to the repair shop, and after driving 20 min, the remote worked fine. They checked the computer to see if failures had registered (they had) and told me I'd likely have to replace the part in the door (pricey!) if the problem persisted. It has. The remote won't work at all, and then after I drive the car for a while, it works (as if it is somehow being recharged by driving.) I phoned my repair guy again, and he's mystified, cannot explain how driving for a period of time makes the key remote work.
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I have a 2005 V8 and in getting my latest service, a bunch of recalls were completed on the vehicle which seemed to screw up the locking/unlocking of the doors. In the past, the doors unlocked without having to hit any of the buttons on the key fob, but now, I get a 'chirp' from the car when I lock it, and have to click the unlock button once for the front doors and twice for the back doors. Is there anyway to revert back to the old way where just having the key close to the door unlocked it?
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Okay, i have an issue with both rear doors randomly not locking or unlocking, i have to manually push down on the rear door lock buttons to lock them, then when i try to unlock them they get stuck, then when i pull the inside door handles they pop up again only sometimes.
1. I use keyfob to lock or unlock wont work
2. I manually put key into the drivers door, still not working
3. I use the inside drivers door switch and still doesn't work
Other problem is when I arm the alarm with keyfob, battery goes flat, i think it's sensing that the door is open why its draining the battery. Both front doors work excellent.
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My driver door on my 06 F150 crew cab stopped locking/unlocking recently. I purchased a new actuator and installed and it worked great. About a week later it stopped working again. But then in order to unlock the door from outside you had to turn key and pull on handle while the key was still turned. I was about to break open door again when it made a strange electronic type sound when I was leaving for work (when auto lock activated). After that it started working again - for 3-4 days. Now it stopped working again. I can open door fine from inside but lock won't stay unlocked. As soon as I release handle it locks again.
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Curious as to whether the lights flashing when locking or unlocking the doors on the '06 F series was an option or standard equipment? I know that they flash when you lock the doors (hitting the button twice) but curious at to whether you can make them flash when you unlock (rather than just the interior light coming on).
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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Both brake lights on my KIA Sportage 2006 function normally when the car lights (headlights etc) are switched off.
When the car's lights are switched on, the right brake light completely stops working, whilst the left one behaves normally and becomes brighter.
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I just picked up my new 2010 Golf (2-door manual, gas) a couple of weeks ago. I'm planning to take it back to the dealer for the first checkup soon. I'm having a minor issue with the car and am wondering if others have experienced this or if I have something set improperly. I've gone through all of the adjustments available through the trip computer menus to no avail.
Basically, the courtesy lights for the interior of the car don't come on when the door is opened. The sensor on the door apparently works as the "door ajar" signal comes on the instrument panel when the door is open.
The switch on the headliner works to turn the lights off (left), stay on (right), but in the center position, which according to the owner's manual is supposed to be the "door open" position, the lights do not come on.
I also hate the horn that beeps when I lock the car. I often come home from work after my kids are asleep and I try not to make noise. There doesn't appear to be a setting for this in the owner settings menu through the trip computer. Can the dealer turn this off for me?
Interesting, today VW sent me an email with a link to some "welcome" videos with how-to information about features on the car. On the remote locking video it just showed and described the turn signals flashing when locking, but no horn.
Otherwise, I'm enjoying the car a great deal. It drives wonderfully and is very quiet on the freeway. I just love the new seats on the 2010 base Golf as well. They remind me a lot of the Recaros on my old Jetta 16v.
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We have a 07 wagon, and the rear hatch intermittently works at this time. When it doesn't operate correctly does it throw a code to the computer at all that is stored, or is it the old "it better not work when it goes to the shop" kind of thing?
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A couple weeks ago my AC started to blow just hot air. I went to Autozone, picked up a can of AC Pro, emptied the can without overcharging the line, it ran great for 3 days, then it shut off. I thought all the freon leaked out but the next day the AC system came back on. Now it sometimes comes on and off.
I took it to my mechanic. When I first told him the issue, he came back telling me that the AC system was fine. I drove home and as I was about a few miles from my house the AC stopped working. The mechanic said they did see it leaking but to come back a few days once the dye marks the problematic area.
Should I have not used AC Pro? I did not get any error codes when I ran the AC diagnostic. Turning on/off the AC manually does not seem to work. Changing from recirculation to outside air does change much. Revving the engine does not produce cooler air.
I'm not an expert, could there be bubbles in the line causing this behavior? I'm taking my car back in tomorrow morning. I'm hoping the AC stays off so my mechanic can troubleshoot this issue. Sounds like maybe the AC is having a hard time staying on? Bad sensor?
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When I go to unlock my doors on 2006 TC I push the switch and all locks come up, however, the rear doors are not unlocking all the way. The only way I can get the doors to unlock is to pull up on the knob as I push the switch at the same time and the doors will unlock and become funtional. Where is the problem?
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I have a 2006 F-150 S/Crew and I seem to have the same intermittant odometer problem as many of the folks in that 1999-2003 group. The odometer comes and goes, flashes intermittantly and sometimes doesn't work for days.
Can it be repaired in the same fashion as those older units? The dealer is more than willing to sell me a new cluster (obviously). They say that there is "no way to possibly repair those odometer problems and we see them all the time."
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I have a 2004 with 210,000 miles. I have noticed recently that my fob is not locking / unlocking my car unless I'm almost right on top of it, even with a clear sight of the car. Didn't use to be that way. I changed the battery and not much improvement.
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My wife has a 06 Sonata with the Manual AC controls. The blower motor works intermittently. Sometimes it works, other times it does not. It does not matter which setting the HVAC is in. Yesterday while driving it, we went over a bump in the road and the motor started running again. Since the motor runs, I want to discount the fuse and relay.
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My FOB is only unlocking my door. It's not locking doors. Thought it might be the FOB battery. I changed it and still no locking, just unlocking.
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The trunk light works intermittently. It will run fine for about 45 seconds, then shut off for 10-15s, and cycles... Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two. Or sometimes it only shuts off once, runs fine. Then only when i close and open the door again can i get it to then shut off again in ~45 seconds.
Finally got out the voltmeter and figured out where it's coming from. It's the diode that's attached to the trunk light.
Why is a diode there? Why a diode would behave that way? or is it possibly a solder joint? I still have my standard incandescent bulb in there.
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I have a 2012 XLE that I bought brand new in 2012 and twice this week I had locking/unlocking problems.
The first one was mid-week. I pressed the unlock button on the fob and the car beeped multiple times instead of a standard 2 beeps. I heard the locks unlock but could not open the driver's door. It felt as if the lock was stuck. I even tried the mechanical key that's hidden inside the fob and the same result. I then opened the passenger door and got in and moved the lock back and forth a few times and then everything worked fine.
Earlier this morning, I had the opposite problem. I could not lock the car using the fob. Had to do it manually like back in the day.
Can the battery or contacts in the fob be slowly going out? Should I start using my other fob? Should I have the dealership look into it?
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So I'm gunna change my horn. I know where it's located, but what I was wondering was is there a way to make the car beep when locking and unlocking? While still having a horn. Is there a special kind of horn that makes it beep during those situations and then actually honks when u hit the steering wheel?
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00 Golf GTI MkIV 1.8T
key fob worked when i first got car a few months ago, previous owner wanted strereo so changed stereo now key fob doesnt work,
Tried so far: removed Car battery for 10 mins Checked all relevant Fuses Used VAG - Com to check Qty of Keys programmed = correct Used VAC COM to re-sync key. Car signlaed a beep to show correct programming Used VAG com to inspect convenience model, No faults found. Used VAG com to measure sensor, this displays a 1 or 0 dependant on which button is pushed,
Notes Central Locking works from Key in door and via internal push button. Dead locking works if u use key in door twice - alarm arms if Car is dead locked and unlocked with Key in door, the Alarm sounds, I have to put key in ignition and quarter turn to disarm. So in summary It would apear Central locking works as does the key as does the sensor. What else can i try?
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