Touareg :: 2005 V8 Down On Power - Pick Up And Almost Feles Like There Is A Miss
Feb 15, 2005
My 05 V8 was even better power wise than my 04 up until I got it back from an extended 2 weeks at the dealer. It now seems sluggish on hard acceleration when in the higher gears, accelerating slowly until in third or fourth then 3/4 throttle yields little push, seems real flat and even seems like there's a miss. No warning lights, no other bad signs like smoke etc. Feels like it's running on 7 cylinders. You don't notice when driven casually, just when revs are about 3k in the higher (3rd, 4th) gears and you step into it 3/4 throttle so it doesn't down shift. I'm worried that when the dealer had it they really hammered it as it only had about 1500 miles on it, yet when I got it back the MPG rating was only 9 mpg, meaning they were getting into the throttle pretty hard.
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2005 6.0l - codes are P0261 Cylinder 1 injector circuit low. PO263 Cylinder 1 Contribution/balance and PO270 cylinder 4 circuit low. Ficm still reads 48 plus or minus .5. What is really puzzling is how changing the oil cooler and the EGR cooler would create these problems. Did I screw up the injector harness. Vehicle does not smoke either white or black. Low idle miss and at 55 it chugs once up to speed. Don't want to go Ford if I can avoid them. Whats going on.
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Truck has not been bullet proofed and has aftermarket air intake. Truck has 185km on it (purchased at 160km a year ago). For the Ham Radio guys out there, this is the most electrically noisy vehicle I've owned with S9+ noise while accelerating and S7 going down the highway ...
The faults show up as:edit Can be hard to start cold, takes couple of tries if it's been sitting for a bit (week or more)
No power when cold, that is a lot of pedal results in little power
Misses a lot when cold
Light blue smoke when missing when cold
When fully warmed up which takes 15 minutes of idling regardless the time of year:under load (heavy acceleration while loaded or not, or just in towing, or carrying) it misses a few times a minute, otherwise runs well
It feels like it just doesn't fire a cylinder if it were a gasser, or as if the spark plug weren't connected, but it's not a constant miss, it is intermittent. No load means hardly any misses. Load means lots of misses even running down the road. Should be pulling hard up a hill where it misses lots more.
What I've looked at :
FICM voltage 47.8 standing, 47.6 cranking and running.
FICM is aftermarket and there are no cold solder joints.
Added Archoil 9100 with no change
Wires to FICM are tight and connectors aren't cracked
edit Wires to Injectors are tight and connectors aren't cracked
Exhaust temps range between 500F and 800F during any of these events
Basic ODB reader shows no codes
I'm looking for a couple of things - I'm not much of a mechanic so this has to go to a shop for diagnosis and repairs. Before I run it someplace, what sort of diagnostic tools should that shop be equipped with to find out what's going on? Also, given what you know of the problem, am I likely to damage things if I continue towing activities?
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For the past month or so my 05 TDI Jetta has been having some acceleration issues. It starts good and when i start driving it goes ok (but not as good as it should) but when the car gets close to 3k rpm it doesn't pick up speed anymore. I recently had it taken into a shop where they fixed other issues but they didn't fix this one. also sometimes it will accelerate faster than it did before it had issues but then it just stops picking up seed. I have looked up this issue but haven't found a cause for it.
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From diagnosis we are pretty sure we have clogged fuel pick ups in the tank of my 99 7.3 Dually. So in I go to clean and repair or replace depending on what it looks like once we get in there.
We have most of the fuel out of the tank, pumped out just over 30 gallons.
I don't have a lift so this is being done on the ground, any easier way ? The bed bolts look pretty rusty and funky but we have been spraying them down with Kroil, the magic elixir, for a couple days to see if that will ease the removal of the fasteners.
Take the Bed Off and work with the tank in the frame or drop the tank out and work away from the truck ?
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I want test my fuel pressure. What is a good gauge or kit to buy? My truck has lost power towing and is now starting to miss a little. I'm wandering if i my problem is in the tank. Is there a good scan tool that would diagnose things too?
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
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So I changed my oil with T6 and archoil and immediate miss at around 1500rpm then it clears up. I can stomp on it after that and it's fine. I know this has happened to others. My last oil change was also T6 and archoil. 2005 F250, stock, atlas 40, 216,000 miles.
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My truck is developing a hesitation or a miss when accelerating. It only does it in the beginning of accelerating like when just starting off from a stop. Seems like its more noticeable with the more I get on it. If that makes any sense. When just lightly accelerating it doesn't do it, like going slow through town from light to light. But when I give it more is when I feel it. It seems like it only does it before the turbo kicks in and it puts out a little smoke too only before turbo kick in. After that it runs good with no noticeable miss or anything. WOT runs feel good after it clears up. Its just when first starting out with anymore that 1/4 throttle I can feel it.
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So I just figured out why my radio won't pick up any stations, the person that owned the vehicle previous to me had a sound system in it, then tried to return it to stock. The problem is the end of the cable that plugs in to the stereo is mangled. It's not just the plastic piece that plugs in, but the coaxial plug itself. I don't want to splice it if I can avoid it...
Long story short (too late): What is the part number for the antenna wiring harness? Is it the standard golf harness, or is it different? Does the cable plug in to both connections in the back, or just one of them?
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I have a 00 Accent with 132k miles, I replaced the motor a year ago with a correct 2000 Hyundai 1.5 with 50k miles. I replaced everything that I could at the time, timing belt , starter, water pump, and clutch. It has been running fantastic getting 40 miles per gallon with zero problems , However in the last week I have noticed a rough idle that seems to miss with a vibration that it didn't have before. I have a noticeable loss of power and torque. My miles per gallon has also dropped to about 25 mpg. My check engine light is not on. I will check the plugs and change the air filter today but I would like to know what else could be causing the problem as I am not really sure what to check.
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Alright so I have an 03 5.4 with 144000 miles. once it warms up to temperature it has a miss and low end power is low and no fuel mileage gets 12 to 13 if I'm lucky. From idle to 3000 rpm its doggy get it over 3000 rpm it runs great. All new plugs and coil packs. What it could be. When the motor is cold it runs great has most its power.
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OK, 4th time in a week that my truck has had this problem... Seems to only be when the truck is already warmed up, restarting after sitting for a few minutes. Starts up just fine, but as soon as I drop it into gear it begins to stutter and stumble, running rough as can be and absolutely no throttle response. I have to kill the engine and restart the truck for it to correct itself, but the restart takes up to 5 seconds of extended cranking to finally fire up. Today is the first time I actually got a CEL and a code: P0078. Only had the truck 8 days now...
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I've had good running on the truck but lately in the cold the idle has a weird skip to it like it's missing on a cyl. It will start fine, and run fine for about 30 seconds. Then it will start to mis. When giving pedal it goes away and it's driveable but it doesn't sound right. After a bit of running it's fine for the duration while warm. My monitors are I think all good, 48.5v, icp about 1250 psi. Is this the famed "injector stiction"?
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2001 V10 160000 miles.
1st happened Wednesday on way back. Temps all fine but had been in stop and go traffic earlier. Truck was on cruise and felt like fuel cut. I disengaged cruise. Throttle would keep it running and within 5-10 seconds it caught and ran fine.
Connected and reconnected all injectors, coil connections, tb and MAF connections. Nothing noted loose. No codes on OBD reader.
Drove around town last couple days no issues. Today towing three dirt-bikes about 45 miles. towards the end of the 45 miles. she stumbled as we crossed an intersection. Then caught and ran fine. Did it twice on way back home towards the end of the trip.
Had OBD reader in gauge mode with ignition advance, tp sensor, voltage and gallons per hour showing. None seemed to change when it stumbled.
Fuel pump is about 2 years old. Coils maybe 4 or 5 years old. Aftermarket. No codes on OBDII reader.
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Did my starter yesterday. Today now several times, truck ran rough and stalled. Turned over, tach not bumping, no codes. Would go after a couple tries. Stuffed a new CPS into it. Drive 30 miles, now has a noticable miss, no codes, no smoke and quit again, but started right up.
No codes. Does not feel like another truck and under valve cover gaskets.
1999 7.3 Super duty!
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Took the beast out for a good road trip to try out the new tires. She is running good now, but has picked up a weird miss which cause the truck to shudder. It does feel and sound just like a miss, I know that it is a diesel but that is only way to describe it.
When driving along with the cruise set at 75, when I hit a hill, the truck will gradually accelerate, and it will miss a beat. Just like you turned it off and right back on very fast. Usually once, twice if the hill is long. If I accelerate harder it will not do it. Most often does it while gradually moving accelerator.
Has new fuel filter ad cam sensor.. Runs great the rest of the time.
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My daughter has a 2006 Jetta and has recently experienced issues with acceleration. Merging on expressways and all of a sudden she can't seem to pick up speed and has to get over in the right lane because she is going so slow.
Been to 2 different shops, A neighborhood shop couldn't find anything wrong and neither can the Volkswagen dealer. No Error codes on the computer accept Knock Sensor. She's afraid to drive the car!
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Truck is up in the back country and has quit. It has two factory gas tanks, I can't hear either of the fuel pumps will come on when you turn the switch on. The problem started as an intermittent fuel starvation issue. Truck would act like it ran out of gas then pick up and go again. Switched tanks back and forth but it got worse throughout the day and finally will not start at all. I have listened to both tanks when the ignition switch is turned on but can not hear the pump come on for either tank (switching the selected tank with the switch on the dash). We went through some bumpy terrain just before the problem started so I am thinking maybe a wire might have come loose or got broke somehow. I am asking for wiring schematic so I can check for voltage in the correct place going to the fuel pumps. Both tanks are full of gas so for now dropping either tank is not an option.
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I just installed glow plugs, ucvh, stage 2 rosewood injectors, t500, ipr and gear head tunes. I have out 97 miles on the truck since all this was installed and the truck seems to run okay but has a rough idle and sounds like there is a mis? What should I look into first?
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I have a 85 bronco 2, but i have no luck with responses in Bronco 2 forum, so here goes. It is the 2.8 carb, manual trans with 109K miles. Idles really well some hesitation when taking off but really bad miss and not power under acceleration. KOEO codes are 31 and 84 CM code 18. I have plugged the vacuum line to the EGR and have noticed a dramatic difference. I have tried to rev the engine and check the vac line to the EGR but I do not feel any vacuum, and at idle the vac line on or off doesn't change things. Any recommendations to whether it is the Sensor or the valve itself and what gives with the 18 code. I am hoping to have timing checked by the weekend.
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