I am Having problems with my AC. In order to get it working i have turn the fan on- off two or three times to kick the compressor on. then when idileing it will sometimes shut down?
View 3 Replies2005 Saab 9-5 ARC 2.3T67,000 Miles
Noticed a problem 2 weeks ago with my little Swedish meatball while at a red light on the way home. While idling, the car just shut off. I'm assuming it was a stall, but the car did not sputter and it was idling at around 900-1k RPMs but then just cut out. I put the car in park, and it started right up without issue and I drove the rest of the way home with it running fine. A couple days later, the same exact thing happened.
I took it in to my local Saab shop for a radiator hose replacement and an oil change. I told him about the stall/cut out problem, so he hooked up the Tech II but could not find any trouble codes. So he did a software update to the computer and told me to monitor it and call him if it happens again.
After getting my car back, it ran fine for a few days. I tried to get it to stall again by just letting it run in idle for 10-15 minutes but it wouldn't cut out. One night, I went to the gym for about an hour and came out and my car started right up and I drove about 5 minutes and came to a light. Car cut out again. However this time, it did not start up again. The engine would crank, the computer would go through the checks and give me the Check OK but it just wouldn't turn over. I tried to start it 5 or 6 times but no luck. I got out and pushed it to the side of the road. After about 2 minutes for sitting there, I tried it again and it turned over. Started right up like nothing ever happened.
The car drove again fine for a few days and then yesterday it cut out again. Same thing. Car would crank but not turn over. I let it sit there for 2 minutes (as traffic was going around me at a red light ) and then tried it again. The engine turned over but it did not start up fine. It definitely stuttered as it was trying to start and I had to give it some gas to get it running smoothly.
Couple of observations: This has only happened while idling (in Park or Drive)This has only happened when the car was warm. I've never had an issue starting in the morning or before the car warms upThis appears to only occur when it has been warm outside. (We've had a few days in the 60s here in PA)The Check Engine Light has never come on. So no trouble codes have ever been logged.
I've been searching the forums and most people seem to recommend replacing the Crank Position Sensor (my mechanic wants to do this as well). However from what I understand, if it was the CPS the car wouldn't stutter like it did when starting after a stall and wouldn't the CPS cut off the engine while driving as well?
My accent had been sitting neglected for a few years. I decided as a side project I would get it in working order before winter and do more to it next spring. The car had a rough idle when started but I had ran it nearly all day a few months ago.
Last week I changed spark plugs and a few other minor things. The undercarriage was wire wheeled and coated with POR 15. This weekend I added gas (with gas cans, car is off road currently) and added techron fuel treatment. The car took two tries to start (always two) so I changed the fuel filter and that problem went away. However, I noticed that when the car idles it begins stalling when it reaches temperature. Thermostat says car is not overheating.
After 15 or so minutes of idling the car just cuts out and SOMETIMES will start but usually it just cranks and cranks. If I wait a bit it will start up again but will die more quickly and this will keep happening until I let it cool. I am also noticing a fairly loud clicking sound from behind fuel injectors. Not the injectors themselves but somewhere behind the fuel injector rail. I am unsure if this had been going on previously or if it is a symptom of the stalling problem.
I cleaned throttle body, IAC, crank and cam sensors though no error codes to speak of. Rough idle takes a few minutes as at first the engine is smooth.
I have a 2012 Prius. It has twice shut down spontaneously when idling while in traffic. I have explained this, the Service Advisor said he had never heard of it. My question is: why is this happening? The car has been properly serviced. It never happened with my 2006 Prius.
View 12 RepliesYesterday, my truck began to shut off abruptly. Under every condition, from idling to slow running (30mph), and 70 mph, to load and no load. Wait 1 minute and it would start and run for 1 minute 15 seconds. If the batteries were disconnected, the truck would run for 13 minutes before shutting off. Have replaced the fuel filters. Still does it, but runs for between 10 and 20 minutes before shutting off.
Am seeing only two errors codes. P1000, and P0603. I was 40 miles into the Ville Vidal, when this started, and 150 miles from home. To get home, I disconnected the batteries too many times to count, and bled the HFCM numerous times. Am also seeing the moisture in fuel icon on teh dash light up when it quits, but so far as I can tell there is no moisture in the separate.
2003 F450 6.0, automatic. 150K miles.
06/2003 Touareg V8 Driver side fuel pump shut off after 15-20 sec after start is that normal? I know that the passenger side is stuck and needs to be replaced but just wanting to be sure that the driver side pump is supposed to act like this.
View 1 RepliesI have an 04 T-reg w/ 15k miles on it, the problem that i am having is with the A/C. It works for the most part but some days its just not that cold. Usually when idling or after returning to the car after 30 minutes or so the a/c just doesn't seem to recover. Its not warm air but its certainly now cold air.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Toyota Avalon XLS that shuts off while driving! No acceleration or power-steering; the car simply stalls. The car only stalls when at low speed such 20mph, stopping for a light, or slowing down to turn.
The car will start right back up or you can put into neutral and restart. I have been dealing with this for a year! I have taken it to my Toyota dealer where I purchased and to no avail. The car throws no codes and no indicator light stays on once the the car is restarted. I have changed electrical wires, replaced battery, disabled remote start (previous owner installed; I purchased car used).
This has happened twice now, both times immediately after towing. I'll start it, begin to accelerate, and it will just putter out. It'll start right back up but it'll putter out again. After 20-30 minutes it'll start (and run). I have an edge programmer and it doesn't turn on when this happens. I get a turbo warning on it that the psi is at like 43/46 even though I'm essentially at idle so it seems to be getting a faulty error thinking the turbo is under too much load.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 with a5.4 engine. When the engine is cold runs fine. When engine gets hot the vehicle shuts down.
View 1 RepliesLast week my battery light came on for the first time in years. I have a 185 amp DC Power alternator after dealing with so many bad oem ones.
Anyways, battery light came on when i pulled up to a stop sign. I proceeded to plug my sct x4 in to see what the voltage was, with the battery light it was 11.50. I shut the truck off started it back up, no light and voltage was 13.7. Went through the stop sign got into some more traffic, started to accelerate again and this is when the truck shuts off for the first time. Put it in neutral, and it started right back up.
Several days later it shut off on me two times back to back. It was a cold start, and both times the battery light was on and the truck would die within 30 seconds. Third start it kept running fine.
This past Saturday morning battery light was on, let it idle for awhile then as i tried to park it in the garage it shut off. Started it up, no light so it ran fine. Later when i started the truck it shut off again. So it has shut off on me 5 times in the last week.
Some more background on the truck:
2005, 199k miles
Well maintained (T6 every 5k, filters every 15k, etc.)
The injectors are going bad, it started running rough saturday 1/9/16, just a couple days before it started shutting off.
I used to a sct x4 to pull codes, i have p2237 (if i remember right) which is an intermittent icp signal. I replaced the pigtail and icp less than a year ago because of the same code.
And three codes for glow plug solenoid open on 5, 6, and 7.
No ipr codes
I have a 2005 Camry SE V6 with 73000k I just got it out of the body shop yesterday and everything seemed fine. i started the car up a short time ago and it stalled out when attempted to drive away. its idling at 400 rpms? I feel that the guys at the shop disconnected something.
View 1 RepliesMy wife's 2005 Mazda 3 had a bit of a noise on cold start and our mechanic thought it was connected to an intake manifold flap malfunction. Now I notice it seems to have a constant ticking noise at idle. If one of the electrical connections near the intake manifold is disconnected the noise stops. Another forum suggested that connection goes to the solenoid valve. They think that valve may be stuck open and when the connection is taken away it closes and the noise stops. At least that is what I was able to extract from the discussion. Does that make sense? The solutions I saw recommended were to either replace the intake manifold or replace the solenoid valve or don't do anything because it's not harmful other than the motor may lose a little bit of power.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2005 Durango, ~142k miles. The end of May, I had to get the transmission solenoid replaced, which may not be relevant. About 10 days later, the car started overheating when idling. There was a crack on the radiator neck, by the cap, and I had to get the radiator replaced, and the thermostat. The shop said the fan was wobbling, and they replaced the fan clutch as well. The fan was a lot louder than it had been, the mechanic said he had put in a higher performance fan in and maybe that was why, and offered to put in a lower performance one if I wanted. I declined.
Six weeks later, it started overheating while idling again. I brought it back, and the water pump was out. By now I was checking the temperature gauge constantly when idling, and it never quite hit the center until suddenly after 4 weeks, then it suddenly started overheating while idling again. I brought it back again, and they couldn't find any problem except he said the radiator was about a cup low, and maybe there had been an air bubble.
I've been constantly checking the temperature gauge since, and it once again never quite hit middle until 2 days ago, and now suddenly it's overheating when idling. I checked the coolant level after it had been sitting for a couple hours (and I had only driven it for about 10 minutes so far this morning, before that. I'm afraid there is a blown head gasket or something, but if so, why would it run so well for an extended period, and then suddenly start overheating again, twice now? They haven't done a compression check.
In case this is relevant, every few days the car will just stall out when coming to a stop, and sometimes the idle seems rough.
I have a 2005 f250 just hit 180k last week and it has the 6.0 in it, egr deleted, sinister diesel oil cooler, stc livewire tuner with street tune installed, air raid air intake. Wicked wheel 2 in the turbo. Its throwing codes P0606 and P0341. Cam sensor has been replaced and the other code is a mystery to me. Its been randomly shutting off like you turned off the ignition all day today.
When it stalls it takes 3-4 times to get it fire back up. When you first go to start it the pressure gauge reads 0 but once it fires up it says theres pressure. Also some of the days it never stalls and runs like a champ but other days i cant drive more the 10 feet and then it stalls. I have no idea whats going on with this truck and ive put lots of money into it doing customization and stuff like that so I am hoping that its not on its last leg....
I've had my '05 3.0l TDi since last November and I've noticed a few times that when the engine is hot and its idling in park or neutral after a few seconds it can develop a bit of vibration. Apply some revs, even just a few, and it goes away. Let it idle again and it will come back. Stop the engine for a few minutes start again and its fine for a couple of months and then it'll pop up again. Its not some slight vibration, it s a proper big shudder. It reminds me of my '76 Land Rover and very unlike a rock solid Phaeton!
View 2 RepliesMy car is idling hard in reverse, and the mechanic said, in fact, a problem with the transmission (a turbine?) Well, a new transmission costs much - so, not much savings there. I was told to try some simple fuel injector cleaner first. Chevy Malibu Classic, 2005....
View 4 Replies When it is cold outside and I want to turn my heat on in my car, it takes a loooong while for heat to be produced. I have to have the car moving at a high rate of speed before any heat is made. Even when it is turned all the way to the hottest setting it just spits out cold air. Here is the real problem. If I have the temperature on the heat and the car is idle, the temperature gauge on the instrument panel starts to move around to the RED side(meaning the engine is hot, right?)
As long as the car is moving the gauge will stay in the BLUE(engine is cool, right?) As soon as I stop the car at a red light or sit in traffic(which is usually the case) sure enough the little temperature needle begins to make its way to the RED side. As soon as I move again, it normals again. I have taken this to several mechanics and they have said that they do not know what is wrong and they think that it may just be a faulty temp gauge(this does not seem right) I do not really know if the car is in fact overheating when the gauge starts its travels or if the car is fine and I just have something that is faulty.
I just bought my 2009 toyota avalon and i wanted to know if it was normal for a knocking noise when the car is on and idling. Car has 46k on it. What a normal idling avalon sounds like?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2005 Avalon LTD and the gas mileage dropped from 24+ to 18 seemingly overnight. I don't have a check engine light on. The car seems to be running fine. The only thing I notice is that when sitting at a light or just with the car idling, the avg mpg just keeps dropping. I just had filled the tank and it reset to 12.1 mpg and I sat there for a couple minutes with it idling, and the avg mpg dropped to 9.1. BTW, the car has 132000 miles. Spark plugs changed at 100K, PVC at 105K.
View 13 RepliesLast November my car began stalling while idling at stop lights. It didn't happen all the time, just occasionally. The car would start back up without too much difficulty. I took it to a GM dealer who cleaned the throttle body and decarburized the intake and exhaust valves. They also removed an aftermarket security system which had been installed by the previous owner which they claimed may have interfered electrically with the engine. They reported a history of code P0128 (thermostat sticking open) being stored in the ECM. I did not have the thermostat replaced.
The work the dealer performed did not resolve the issue. During the winter, I've been letting the car warm-up for a few minutes before driving. While warming up, the rpms will sometimes increase or decrease 200-300 rpm then return to normal idling a few seconds later. Sometimes when the rpms dip down low enough, the engine sputters and either recovers or stalls. On most days I don't have any issues and the car runs fine. The check engine light sometimes comes on while this happens, and sometimes it doesn't.