Touareg :: 2005 V6 - Hard Cold Restart When Shut Off Before Fully Warm Up
Jan 5, 2011
I have a 2005 with V6 and 55,000 miles. For over the last year I have had a problem where if you start the car and then shut it off before it fully warms up it will be very hard to restart and barely run till you get it out and run it on the highway for awhile. First noticed this when starting car to back out of driveway to get into attic. Went to restart to put back in garage and car would hardly start. Had to dealer a couple of times and they said you should warm car up before using. That sounds good but is not practical and car never had this problem when new.
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Car starts and run find when cold. Shut off when warm up , will not restart? Could this be a crank sensor problem?
2004 accent GS with 150,000
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I just recently swapped out my Automatic Transmission in my 91 MR2. The person i received it from had the system completely drained, including the torque converter. I found this out kinda hard the way, knowing that the pan was empty, but not expecting the torque converter to be empty as well. After filling up the system, i thought i may have overfilled it, because the fluid level was reading above the hot mark on the dipstick. So i drained the fluid and replaced the transmission filter. I put in 3 quarts of fluid and added the 4th quart of fluid over time, mainly letting the car run and warm up to operating temp and then adding fluid and letting it settle.
I kept doing this until i got to the full mark on hot. So this is where I am at now... On a cold start, the transmission will chatter in all gears, from park to low. Give it about minute or so to start warming up the chattering slowly goes away. When its at operating temperature, there is no chattering at all in any of the gears, and it presumes to be normal and fine. It takes about 5 minutes to fully warm up to operating temperature. Should i worry about the chatter at the beginning while its warming up? i have to drive the car because I want to be sure that the transmission is okay. I have thought about adding an additive, but all that i have read is just bad results, and failed transmissions.
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I've got a 2004 wagon and occasionally, when it's warmed up, if I shut it off it's hard to start again. When I turn the key it fires up, but when I release the starter it dies, like I've shut the car off. Giving it throttle makes no difference. I have to do this several times, and then it keeps running. Never does it cold. No codes.
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I'm new to the Lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds a bit tappet on cold starts until fully warm sounds scary... noise disappears once it's fully warm.
for a Lexus to do this is a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...
It has full Lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no different
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I have s 2007 f250 superduty with a 6.0. Recently after the engine gets warm I have a problem restarting it. I have to turn the key to the run position until all sounds have stopped then I have to pump the accelerator to get it to start. Sometimes I have to repeat this three or four times before it starts. I have had the fuel pump rebuild and installed two new batteries. What I should be looking at.
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I was driving my truck down my driveway and it just shut off, it will not start, when I turn on the key the fuel pump will not run and when I try to start it the engine will not turn over. Neither the starter or fuel pump relay click. When I turn the key to the on position all the lights and radio still work. When the key is on the small red light on top of the dash begins to flash rapidly. My boss tried to hook his snap-on scanner to the obd2 port but it will not let him retrieve any of the codes and continuously tells him to cycle the key through the on and off positions giving zero results.
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My Prius has 198K, runs great and has been trouble free. This week it started acting up. The AC will run for a few minutes, blowing very cold, then will blow warm air for a period of time, perhaps 10 minutes, then will blow cold again for a few minutes. It will repeat this several times, then will blow cold until the end of the trip, about another 30 minutes.
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Alright, dodge grand caravan 3.8. Year: 05' ... Just broke 100k miles on this thing, last time i changed the plugs i noticed plug 2 had oil all down in it. I completely forgot about the problem cause i got side tracked with bad sway bar bushings. Anyways, what is the cause of the oil leakage? It has gotten so bad that I am blowing smoke when its cold, even is warm weather. There is also caked on oil and dirt on a lot of the parts down the front left side of the motor. Blown head gasket? Bad valve cover gasket? I want the best way to approach this . The smoke is white, but not enough smoke to be a completely blown head gasket.
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My 2005 STX 4.6 fuel pump crashed a couple of months ago. A couple of days after having it replaced I started having hard/rough starting problems accompanied by a 0300 and 0301 code. I reset the codes several times and they only come back during the 3rd or 4th hard start, never while driving. The hard starts occur after the engine is shut off for more than a few minutes after driving. I have replaced the plugs, #1 COP, remaining COP boots, Cam Pos Sensor, Fuel pump drive module and had and FI. Also had the fuel pump replaced again on warranty thinking maybe a bad check valve. Again...it worked perfectly for a day and now I'm back to square one. Haven't gotten any codes YET but its only been a day. Bad injector? EGR?
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I have 2002 Camry 2.4L (2AZ-FE Engine) Japan built. Lately, I noted the temperature gauge stay at the 4th mark when engine fully warm up (first mark is at bottom and slightly longer than the next few marks), is this normal? Which mark it is at when fully warm up.
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OK all sensors and evac valve done. No codes being pulled. No check engine light. Car starts no problem in the morning or when its been sitting but when the car has been driven to temp. I will not restart and just keeps cranking, if it starts to start it shudders and dies. I am the original owner and its had any maintenance its needed.
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I have a 2005 STX with 107,000 miles on it. When it is cold you have to turn the key on for 5 seconds twice then start it. When it is warm it will start like it always did. When the temperature outside is 60 or above you have to do the key thing about 5 times. I think it is my fuel pump...
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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I have a 2.5L 2010 camry se ... Car was running perfectly fine last night. The next morning all the lights were on but when i turned the key to start it up, i just heard a click and all the lights shut off. Checked the battery with voltmeter and its reading fully charged but lights on the dash are no longer lighting up. Starter problem?
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I have a 2005 Avalon Limited. Just recently when I have the air turn on, it blows warm/hot air on the drivers side where the passenger side is cold as ice??? What gives??? I have the dual zone feature, and the drivers site is warm weather its on dual zone or regular.
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Truck is a 1999 F-250 with manual climate control with A/C.
Heater core issue:
Heat is not very warm after engine is fully up to temp. Would like to back flush the heater core without damaging or making it leak. How should I do this safely?
Secondly, if I do make it leak, how hard is it to change out?
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How to diagnose what I think is a failing alternator?
Here are the symptoms:
- Hard starting in cold weather
- Battery not at full voltage when truck is parked (usually around 11.5-12 volts. I have been putting a charger on it some nights)
- Lights seem to dim when I've got accessories running, like heater fan, heated seats etc. Lights get brighter with engine RPM, like when pulling away from an intersection.
What's my next step to diagnose this? I did a search, and didn't see anything. My battery is probably still under warranty, so if that's the issue, it should be a free fix. How hard is it to install an alternator in a 2005 with 5.4L engine?
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I have Jeep Liberty 2002 with 100300 miles. I having starter problem and the starter was replaced with a new one. Still I am having the same problem, the car can only re-start 30 minutes or more after I shut it off. The mechanic stated that he does not know what it is causing the problem.
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My wife's 2010 Prius IV died on the highway at 65 mph; just shut down at speed and would not restart. She had it towed to the dealer and there it's been now for 5 weeks! The tow truck operator was able to drive up on the flat bed using EV, but no engine. Dealer says it's the inverter which has a nationwide backorder and no ETA.
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I currently have a 06 camry se v6 3.3 3mz-fe with an electrical issue. Here is the list of issues
1. whenever I draw power to do anything after the car is started some things restart it self or shut off then slowly come back on. For EX if I am driving and apply the brakes the radio shuts off and/or the gauges reset (like I am turning off the car and re inserting the key).
2. if I roll all the windows up at the same time same thing as above.
3. if the radio is too loud same thing
4. everything inside the vehicle is dimmer then before.
while this is happening the engine is still running and never shuts off only electrical stuff shuts on and off.
this is what is electrical aftermarket on the car that I have changed
pioneer AVH-4000
JL 150/4 500/1
JL componets front 6x9 rear vr 12"w6v2
LED mood lights interior at feet front and rear
HID's low and high
1.5 farad cap
optima red top with dual post (side mounts used for factory connections top for system 0ga connections)
I have also done the following
disconnected all of the above (so no lights, radio, interior lights)
replaced the alternator (twice, the first was a DOA from autozone and now I fear that the second one is going bad because its not charging @14.??v anymore im lucky if it charges at 13.6)
checked all my grounds under the hood and trunk
checked all fuses and relays that I can find
charged the battery even when it tested good but was low at 12.1v
checked all of the wire harnesses under the hood for shorts or exposed wires
I have done almost everything but strip the entire car down to shell and inspect the whole harness and behind the dash, which I don't have the time to do. I have been trying to solve this issue for a month now and its not getting better its getting worst so I make the last step and take it down to the dealer.
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