Touareg :: 2005 - Brake Pedal Squeaks
Jun 19, 2005
The wife's had her 05 for about two weeks now, and while riding in it the other day, I noticed that the brake pedal now squeaks like a SOB. I know it's a simple fix.
Also, is there any way to VAG the rear hatch, so you don't have to constantly use the door switch or fob to unlock the hatch, even when the doors are unlocked? And, is the any way to change the brightness of the overhead compass screen? At night, unless I lean over, I can't read it from the driver's seat. Those are my only rants thus far, which are nearly nonexistent. PS - got the hitch put on and pulled for the first time last weekend. Nothing but good things to say.
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My brake pedal squeaks when I release it, for the last two weeks. Does this mean I need maintenance, repair, or some oil?
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A few things that annoy me right now. Brake pedal squeaks when I press it. Like I'm killing a mouse. The steering above 65 is twitchy, just like all my other Prii, the AC sucks on hot days, the left lower seat bolster digs into my left thigh, there is a rattle somewhere.
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So, a few day i bought an 84 Ranger and even since have not been able to figure out what the hell is wrong with the brakes. I know it's not the brake booster for starters. Because, i went to Auto Zone and picked up a new one and when i took the old one off (before i had put the new one on as well) i tried to see if the brake pedal would now move freely and it won't. It is still very stiff and squeaks when you push it down. i then to get it to return have to pull it up with my foot... What it might be? the WD-40 failed here as well.
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Major squeaking noise started end of last week. Could it be the brakes? but no sensor warning light came on! 36K Miles.....
Service at 30K showed brake pads to be okay. I did my own inspection and agreed. I took it to the dealer this morning (I've always had problems with them so I'm used to having to fight and try to get a good price) Dealer says I need Fron Brake Pads (to me they still look okay) and this is what's causing the problem. I'm going to replace them and advised them to drive the car after completion to check the front Drive Shaft since this seems to be a problem with this vehicle.
Concerns: Brake Light sensor did NOT come on. Squeaking noise = Could be Front Shaft.
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I love my V8 Treg...one squeak that is troublesome...quickly releasing the brake pedal causes an annoying squeak... what I might do to resolve the issue?
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I have a 2005 Santa Fe 2.7 V6.
For over a month I have had a soft brake pedal. For those that may not know what that is, I push my brake pedal down 3/4 of the way, and I'll finally feel the brakes catch; however, I cannot stop quickly. I have had to use the Sports Mode to slow down my car many times.
I brought it to my local mechanic and he has done the following:
1) he thought it might have been the master cylinder, so he replaced it. he checked the old master cylinder and found nothing wrong.
2) bled the brake system a couple of times, but it still came back
3) brought my car to the local dealer to drain the ABS system. The problem still came back.
I waited over an hour as the dealership's service department checked out the car. Someone finally came to me and said they checked the lines and they are not leaking, so it has to be the master cylinder. I told the guy that it's a brand new cylinder, and when the mechanic looked at the old one, he said there was nothing wrong with it. All he could say was it's not the lines, it's the cylinder. If I had the problem before & after the master cylinder was replaced, & nothing was wrong with the original master cylinder, how is it the master cylinder?
I called my local mechanic on my way home from the dealership and told him what happened. He said he was going to do some research, mentioned something about replacing something with the ABS and he would call me today.
I searched the forums for brake issues and saw something about cracked ABS rings. Could that be an issue? Could it be something else?
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We have a 2005 Toyota Camry, had it since 30K miles/2008, now has 94K miles. Since we have owned it, the brake pedal feel has not been great, kind of mushy. It is the way this generation Camry's are. It gets driven mostly on fwy, so not much brake use. At 92K miles I changed the front pads and rotors, pads still had 30% left on them. The rotors were somewhat warped. Brake fluid has been gravity flushed every 2 years since 2008, last one in 2012.
Now, the problem is when wife drives it, twice at a lengthy red light, she has noted that the brake pedal "almost" sinks. It did not go to the floor, but the level went lower. The car did not move during this events. With the newer ABS brake systems, on all my three cars, after a full stop, I can push the pedal down further, almost close to the floor. The Camry is the same way, just with a baseline of mushy pedals. My wife only drives one of the other ones (Dodge Caravan,)and has not complained about that one.
The brake fluid level is solid/steady, no leaks at the wheels either.
Now looking at whats involved, seems I can change the master cylinder myself. The question is do I need to? I don't mind paying a mechanic to do a diagnostic too, just not sure what they are going to do. I believe, just as a defensive measure, they will go ahead and change the MC (which then I might as well do it myself). I could also continue to drive it, but don't want to be stupid here.
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Last night I jumped into my Treg to move it into my garage. When I pushed the brake pedal to move the gear selector out of park, I heard a whooshing sound. Like the sound of a bellows-type foot pump I use to inflate my dinghy. I could also feel a slight amount of movement in the transmission lock button on the top left side of the shifter when doing this.
Now I'm noticing this noise whenever I apply the brakes. It doesn't appear to affect braking performance, but does have me wondering. I'll have the dealer check this out when I take the Treg in for the recent recall (got my notice yesterday).
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2005 VW Jetta: The brake indicator light came on in the dashboard. I took the car to the dealer, and they replaced the front brake pads. Indicator light is now off, but I drove away with a new problem: The pedal fades as it comes to a stop. I have to push almost to the floor to stay still. Sometimes the car drifts forward if I'm not consciously pushing down harder than usual on the pedal. The dealer took the car back for a few days, replaced the master cylinder, bled the lines and did not charge me. But the problem is still there. What went wrong?
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My rear brakes developed a squeal when the brake pedal was released. My dealer replaced the rear brakes & disks at about 57000 miles. I had taken a salesman from the dealer to get an appraisal & he told me that it sounded like a simple adjustment would fix it. 2005 Elantra
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I have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
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I had something happened the other day that I have never experienced in any of my Prius' before, I was driving along coming up to a stop lite and the lite changed I tried to make a quick stop and stomped on the brake pedal and pedal got real hard and no stopping! car did not even slow down, luckily no cars where sitting at lite.
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MY 2005 chevy silverado 2500 developed brake problems. The power steering pump, master cylinder, and Hydro static something or other has bee replaced.Now the pedal fades with constant pressure. The shop tells me this is ok but today at at a downward sloping boat ramp with the pedal at the floor, it was very scary.Before the parts were replaced this problem did not exist.
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I took my touareg 4 times back they said the rotors are ok and later replaced all the back brakes and rotors, now the front squeaks again when hot, they can't hear the noise when i take it in. They said it's the moisture after a car wash.
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Have a seat and/or steering wheel that squeaks? If so did your dealer fix them? I have a driver's seat that squeaks when it adjusts for both entry and exit. It sounds like the leather is rubbing against something. The steering wheel squeaks during turns. I have about 3500 miles on my rig and the seat squeak appeared about 800 miles ago and the steering wheel squeak appeared about 500-600 miles ago.
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My Treg is in the shop at the moment to have some squeaks and rattles looked at - and I was expecting to get it back on Monday this week. However, was told on Tuesday by the garage that the engineers had discovered that the rear handbrake shoes had completely disintegrated and that they needed to replace them. Now
a) I don't make a habit of driving around with the handbrake on, and
b) my car has only done 6,000 miles
So what's going on? To cap it all, the parts are on back-order from Germany. Which means it will likely be two weeks before I get my car back. This is starting to get on my nerves. It feels like my Treg is in the garage more than out of it and I'm beginning to regret my purchase.
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My yellow (circle with line on each side) warning light for brakes is on in my 2005 VW Touareg. Only 9 months ago I replaced the front pads, rotors and sensors. When I put the car in drive and start to move the warning light flashes 'check front brake pads'. Is it possible it's something simple like a sensor? Is there a way for me to check that? Side note: I replaced the rear brake pads and rotors only 5,000 miles before that. I just want to see if it could be something simple before I take it in to be checked out and told it's something more sinister. I checked the level of brake fluid and it is full.
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I have a 2005 V8 with 15k miles. I have 18" wheels. I'm thinking of replacing the factory brake pads soon. The factory pads are a bit squeaky, especially on warm days after the car warms up. I find this annoying. I do not want to replace pads with the same product. So I have two question: What brand came on the car? and what pads can you all recommend?
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Ok, I changed my front brake pads and rotors last week and since then everytime I get in the truck and drive for about the first 2 or 3 miles when I push the brake pedal it feels like my ABS sytem is activating. Then it stops and the ABS light comes on but the brake pedal stops pulsating when depressed. Is my ABS going bad or did I possibly do something wrong? I have changed the rotors and pads before without problems....
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I have a 05 Ford escape with 107K. When I make a right turn and applying the brakes I feel a clunking in the brake pedal. checked all front brakes and all is ok. So I looked at the drive shaft on the drivers side. I can move or wobble the drive shaft around on the in board CV going in the transmission. Is that normal?
There are no "Clicking" sounds any where while turning which would tell me that is what it is. Also while driving slow not applying brakes there is a lot of clunking and knocking sounds while going over a few little bumps here and there. Is it the inboard CV joint?
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