Touareg :: 2004 Runs For 10 Seconds Then Dies
Dec 10, 2011
Not really sure where to go with this one. Was going to start with the fuel filter but I am not sure where it is at?
View 3 RepliesNot really sure where to go with this one. Was going to start with the fuel filter but I am not sure where it is at?
View 3 RepliesMy 04 Touareg V-6 will start, but will die about 10 seconds after or if I give it gas. I'm pretty sure it's one of the fuel pumps just not sure which one.
View 5 RepliesI have an 84 Bronco II with a fuel injected 302 in it. I was out wheeling with it the other day, and it was doing great until about 3:00. I got out to see that my brothers radiator had sprung a leak. When I got back in my Bronco and put it in gear, it just stalled. I started it back up and it ran for about 10 seconds then shut off. It kept doing that over and over again. Finally, I got tired of it and had someone get my truck and tow me out of there. Why would it run for about 10-15 seconds only and then shut off like it was getting no fuel (yes, it does have fuel in it)? I have a feeling it might be fuel pressure regulator valve because it was acting up a while ago..
View 10 RepliesMy 2004 Prius is due in the shop Tues for a hybrid battery replacement. Codes indicate only one cell bad BUT...It is obviously having some problem running. We were very low on gas yesterday but wife filled it before she came home.
She parked it in garage. The Hy Batt indicated all green bars. She may not have pressed the Park button before Power - I do that a lot too.
This AM I changed the spark plugs before I tried to start it. I then started it (ICE & started-sounded OK) and backed it DOWN the driveway into the street and started down the street. The ICE stopped.
The batt indicated one blue bar so the batt would not propel it. After trying a couple times to make it run, I disconnected the 12v grd and let it sit for an hour. Then I reconnected the batt and the ICE again started showing hybrid at 4 blue bars and stopped after a few seconds. Tried it once or twice more, same thing.
I've got 200k on my Lariat. Engine was replaced 60k ago. It's in outstanding shape and is driven a lot. Suddenly this morning I start as usual and it runs about 5 seconds then stalls out. Every start, same thing. So it seems I am getting fuel pressure to start but it doesn't last.
I did replace the Fuel Pump Module within the past two years, due to corrosion of the FPM housing. At that time the truck would no start at all. Could it have gone bad already? I'm thinking this must be an electronics failure. It was perfect all day yesterday. 2004 Lariat 5.4...
This applies to a 2001 F-350 with 73,000 miles on the engine. Engine oil level is good, batteries charged, HPOP reservoir is full and passes Cody test with flying colors. Fuel pump runs for 20 seconds at key on. Start takes about 6 seconds. If I shut the key off and restart immediately it starts in under 2 seconds but if I wait about 30 seconds it's a 6 second start. Here is an AE that I ran on it, it has me stumped. FWIW it seems to start quicker when AE is hooked up. ?? An odd whir type of noise comes out from somewhere under the hood when I first turn the key on and when I clear the codes with AE.
View 14 RepliesA few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 RepliesI got a 2004 VW Touareg, V8, 4.2L, I really love it and it's a nice one.
But since last winter (Dec. 2015), I found that the only one of the radiator fan (the large one, there was one larger fan together with a smaller one right under the hood attached to the back of the radiator) is working after I pulled my key off. I have to say probably I didn't notice it before but this time it drains the battery. I didn't drive it for 3 month since then since I was abroad for business. But weeks ago I started to jump start it whenever I need to drive, and the battery was drain after completely and can not be jumped any more.
I got this battery about 1 year ago (Feb. 2015), the repair guys put a "Super Starter Extreme" for me, I found it yesterday when I decided to change the battery by myself and drop the car to a near repair shop
(To be honest I'm not sure if this one is really a choice for my car, but it worked for a year).
And I have to go Walmart to get a new battery in 'cause that's the nearest place I can go for my convenience.
I get a "EverStart" by search with my vehicle model,
Now I can start the car and drive but the radiator fan will still keep working like 4 minutes after the engine is off.
One thing I found when I open the hood is that the smaller one starts to work when I switch the contact housing from the larger one to it. Always, only one fan is working and it goes with that specific housing.
I have two questions,
1. Do I need to go VW dealer and check what's happening? (I tried several repair shop nearby and they know nothing about VW touareg, espaciall it prob came to be a electrical problem)
2. Is is a problem of battery? If the new battery I got is still not good, what is the right one to put in. I saw people recommending Odyssey PC1350, but thats a lot more expensive, I'm just worried if that battery can solve the problem.
This is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
I am working with a friend on his 2004 v8 toureg. It dies at idle after a few moments. I thought it was the usual coil issue cause he said the thing was misfiring like a mother so i replaced the coils and got rid of the misfire but still died. Then i noticed that one of the plastic linkages was broken on the air velocity flaps on the intake manifold. Tried holding the flap open but it still dies. Is it possible that the ecu is shutting the car off because of the air code from the flap?
View 4 RepliesWhen I start my Audi car it runs on few seconds. However when i take it for dealers they said there is no such problem in battery. So what should i do now, my car is not running properly.
View 6 Replies1997 ranger 3.0 auto.. took it to a shop to have some work done. trans fluid valve covers leaking. had no real problems with the truck.
now, first start in the AM and only them, it runs lean and dies. second start Ok rest of the starts during the day OK ...
replaced ICV, tosses no codes. fuel pressure Ok ...
My friends car suddenly quit running while he was on a trip, he went through the carwash and as he pulled out the car died. He had it towed to a shop and they charged him $400 to run a few tests and replace the fuel pump relay thinking it would fix the problem, obviously didn't or i wouldn't be typing this. At this point the car cranks but won't start.
This is what the sheet from the shop says, "retest through PCM to locate problem. Ran diagnostics per flow chart. all power, grounds and G28 engine speed spensor output to ECM test good excepting pin T121/86, wire color Lilac/yellow. Signal between camshaft position sensor to ecm. No voltage signal recommend replace PCM and RETEST."
I've put a used ecm (ecu? i've read both terms used) in and the car cranks, starts, gets to idle and dies. If i give it gas after it starts it'll rev up once, then die. I'll call it progress, but i want this damn car out of my driveway.
I'm driving a 95 buick lesabre, good condition, clean, 130k miles on it. 2 months ago the car started stalling and then it died. Took it to a shop, replaced all original fuel pump and fuel lines. Repeat this about 3 more times, all in all, the fuel pump, fuel lines, map sensor, mass airflow sensor have been replaced. Yesterday, the same thing happened. Took it to a different mechanic, he says he drove it for two days and couldn't find anything wrong with it. Is there anything specific in a 95 lesabre that could be causing this? It drives fine for a while, and then out of nowhere it starts to stall, then the car dies and check engine light comes on. Gas is kept above half a tank due to winter conditions and the fact that it's an old car.
View 8 RepliesMy wife's 1998 oldsmobile intrigue. i have replaced the starter with a rebuild from advance auto parts, had the alternator rebuilt and installed a new battery. the car runs until the battery dies and then it will shut down while driving. it can be jumped and started but will die again when the battery drains.
View 2 RepliesComing home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
I have a 2002 Excursion 7.3 4x4 and when it will start is runs for about 20 min then turns off. When I go to start the truck again the theft light flashes rapidly and the glow plug light never turns off. I have tried reprogramming the key to the PATS by leaving it turned for 30 minute then turning it back then starting and that worked for a few times but it doesn't anymore. Additionally I used to be able to take the terminals off the batteries for 20 minutes or so and then it would start after re connecting them but now I have to leave the batteries off for like 24 hours then it will start fine 1 time run for 20 minutes and die and won't start all over again.
I have a snap on solus pro I am borrowing to figure it out but am not very familiar with it, I can only find codes P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid circuit (but mine is 4x4) and U1262 data fault for J1850 there is nothing pulling up under the PATS option in the scanner so I don't know whats wrong or where to even begin, it just shuts off.. The truck runs great till it shuts off, buzz test in the scanner doesn't do anything and neither does the glow plug test. When the truck dies is just turns off like someone turned the key off, no running rough or anything first, I am pretty sure the computer is shutting off the injectors and then locking me out.
2010 Cobalt, LS 2.2 Ecotec, with 13.7k miles. Oil level normal and battery voltage = 12.5V.
I've bought the car new in Feb. 2001. Car started and ran normally for the work commute on Friday, 9/2. Today the Cobalt starts normally, runs for 2-3 seconds, and then stalls. The accelerator has no effect. It's already been towed to the dealer..
I just put new rear air shocks on my Buick Lucerne. I noticed the back in my car bounced more than once when I tested them. After starting the car I hear the air compressor run for about five seconds. This seems to have no effect on my new shocks. The old shocks had holes in the bladder. What tests can I perform to figure out what's wrong?
View 8 RepliesIt is a 1991 C1500 2wd, ext cab, short bed 5.7L engine with about 300k miles on it that I have had for a year. Supposedly a different 350 engine and transmission was put in a couple years ago.
This problem has been going on for 2 weeks. I'll start the car up and it runs just fine, no problems. After driving for about 20 minutes, the engine will die while driving, and will not start back up until the next day. I have sat in the car for literally 4 hours patiently waiting for it to start. I'll turn the key and the engine will rotate, but will not start. When someone shows up to give me a jump after the battery gets low, it will not start. I'll go home and go to sleep, and sometime the next day I'll go to my truck, and it will start back up, and I'll drive back home, and I'll make it as long as it takes less than 20 minutes.
It is not just a "morning problem", but a "first time I have started the truck that day" kind of problem. Last week, it happened to me in the mornings. On Saturday, I didn't leave my house until 2pm and the problem happened. Today, I first drove it at 8pm, and the problem happened.
Things I have changed so far (mostly from Autozone):
Starter - burnt it out when it first died 2 weeks ago, now I know not to crank when below 9 volts - lifetime warranty
Spark plugs - no more engine popping or driving with 2 feet - changed last week on Tuesday - AC Delco CR43TS gapped at .035
plug wires - changed all in November, since I noticed one of the old ones was tore - lifetime warranty
Distributor cap and rotor - changed last month when the engine started popping - autozone
Ignition control module- I changed today, I really thought that would fix the problem after speaking with the Autozone guy - lifetime warranty
Ignition Coil - changed last month because of popping
Fuel Filter - changed last Thursday, thinking it was a fuel problem
Here are some of the other symptoms I have been noticing over the last couple months:
Pretty bad gas mileage, I know it is a V8, but it is just as thirsty when I am not carrying anything as when I am pulling a car. A couple months ago, after driving for about 30 minutes or so, the engine would make a "Pfft" noise and would start popping and I would have to drive with 2 feet to keep the engine running.
3.0, SOHC engine...car started for coolant system leak check. Idle jumped to. 3000 RPMs. Shut car off...disconnected throttle cable from throttle body. Started car again, engine ran normally, no coolant leak found. Reconnected accelertor cable to throttle body. Tried starting car again, started rough then died after a few seconds. Changed fuel filter...disconnected fuel line to fuel rail and lots of comes out. MFI solenoid inside car clicks several times after engine dies. Engine tries to run, but wont, after it dies. ECU bad? Other issue?
View 4 Replies