Touareg :: 2004 V8 Dies After A Few Moments Of Running
Nov 18, 2010
I am working with a friend on his 2004 v8 toureg. It dies at idle after a few moments. I thought it was the usual coil issue cause he said the thing was misfiring like a mother so i replaced the coils and got rid of the misfire but still died. Then i noticed that one of the plastic linkages was broken on the air velocity flaps on the intake manifold. Tried holding the flap open but it still dies. Is it possible that the ecu is shutting the car off because of the air code from the flap?
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I have a ford focus (2004) 4cyl 2.0 L. One day, the car would stall only moments after the engine would turn. It would just shut as if fuel was ceased. I could however rev the engine and keep it running if I had my foot on the gas. After awhile, I tried again and it worked! Everything was normal, then it stalled after trying to start if up again. So this was intermittent at the time.
So, I swapped my fuel pump relay with the a/c one- and it fired right up! I'm thinking great, its just the relay and not the actual fuel pump. So went to the parts store, got a relay, and (me being me) wanted the new relay in the original fuel pump relay plug in the fuse box. As I was taking it out, a really really small piece of plastic chipped off of the plastic cover of the relay, and fell in one of the slots where you put the relay. How in the world?? I couldn't get it out. So I ended up putting the relay in anyway, and my car has the same problem originally (stalls), but now I have these check engine codes: p0460 and p0463
I also noticed, its running really rough when I hold the gas now. Could the plastic piece that fell into the relay be causing a strange short from my fuse box? Or, could it be my fuel pump this whole time? If its messed up because the plastic, Is finding a fuse box at a junkyard and replacing it feasible?
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Not really sure where to go with this one. Was going to start with the fuel filter but I am not sure where it is at?
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My 04 Touareg V-6 will start, but will die about 10 seconds after or if I give it gas. I'm pretty sure it's one of the fuel pumps just not sure which one.
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My wife's 06 expedition 5.43v runs rough loud and dies. Not all the time just when it's to hot. I got a code it's p0022 cam sensor. I changed both started the rig up and heard loud rattling like metal maybe chain. It lasted for a the length of my video 1.4mins give or take then went fine, i turned the car off and back on everything seems fine. I know I got her oil done after driving. She had metal/plastic in her oil. I had all plugs done and actually i re did the 8th cylinder plug because it was miss firing and i pulled it by hand with only the socket no ratchet. I'm thinking the chain is going bad if not already bad. Only 113k miles my 04 f150 5.43v lasted 250k before motor swap...
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Is there a way to turn the daytime running lights off?
2004 Tourareg V8x....
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Since we know that most VW service sucks, I'm taking my 04 V8, Nav/Air Susp 35k miles in tomorrow because the whistling/rubbing noise was bad enough on the ride home from work last night that it started freaking me out.
I want to tell the service department to at LEAST check the following:
Whistling: Gets worse with speed and when the car gets warmed up. Sounds more like rubbing when you get going. Check the drive shaft bearing.
Running Gear Fault: Check air suspension piston rings ( I need to look this up again) Something to do with the air bag or air pump seal.
Hesitation: There should be a TSB for this that can be fixed with a computer adjustment.
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I have a 2004 VW Touareg with 116K miles. Yesterday the check engine light came on and she is running very rough at low RPMs. The manual tells me that there is either a problem with the exahust manifold or an O2 sensor is bad. It feels as if she is struggling for air. When you start the vehicle the check engine light flashes then stays on in the cluster. What can I expect when I take it in to the dealership? Is there anything I can check before I take it in?
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Everyone month or so, for a few seconds at highway speeds I will get a hum/drone that is very loud. Its not consistent on when, or where I am driving as it has happened 3 or 4 times in different areas but all on the highway and between 60-80mph.
It lasts a few seconds and increased/decreases with speed but tapping the brakes does not affect it. Even changing speed or switch gears does not fix the issue, but eventually if I drop below 60ish mph then speed back up, it will go away, but even that is inconsistent and I may have to do it twice or more for the drone/hum to go away.
I would think it would be a weird position the wheel bearing gets into, but all the wheel bearings up front have both between replaced in the last 10 months. It does not sound like its coming from the rear.
Summary:
-Tapping the brake doesn't stop the noise
-Changing speed makes it louder or quieter and eventually when slowing down significantly it goes away
-Changing gears at speed does not affect it
-Inconsistent - once a month at most
-Only lasts a few moments
-Only at speeds 60+
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When start my car and turn on the lights, its on for a few moments and they flicker, and then the driver side turns off. I toggle the switch off and on, and they fire right back up, but few moments later its off again. After about 10 minutes of doing that, they usually stay on, but once I make a quick stop (at store or bank for example) and turn off the headlights, the issue starts again and I usually cant get them to stay on after that unless I park the car for a few hours, and go through the 10 mins of screwing around with them again. Sometimes it will cause the passenger side to turn off as well, or sometimes even both!
I really need to fix this, along with my front parking lights in the bumper and the rear side bumper lights as well. I also have to take care of my license plate lights, which the harness does not even seem to be there behind the left lens, and the right one is missing.
I want to fix them, but if I take apart the fixtures, I want to polish the inside of the lens. and do any other mods at that time. I want to stick with the HID's, but maybe get some different bulbs for the low beam, that funky yellowish light that runs during the day, and the fog lights. I am not going to mess around with the LED's for a while. I had halogens in my last car that I had to update to HID to get good light, and these SC lights are even better since they are auto leveling, and turn with the car for the most part as well.
Does this sound like the bulbs? I heard of people online changing the bulbs and still having this issue. I thought it could be ballasts, but I am a newbie to the HID lighting so I am not sure. There are youtube vids up with this issue on the SC and ES models also I believe, so this is a known problem that pops up for everyone at one point during ownership.
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So this morning I was in rush hour traffic, stopped at a traffic light when all of a sudden, I get the bong that signals "refuel" I have just under 1/2 tank, though. Glanced down at the fuel gauge to see it drop down to E and then a few moments later back up to just under 1/2. All the will car was running and seemed fine otherwise. The refuel sign stayed on though ...... even when switched off (while MFD was still on) Restarted the car and refuel message was no longer displayed. What could this be? fuel pump on the way out?
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My Radio shuts off at moments of high power usage. Like with the lights all on, blower motors on high, and having the anti locks kick in.
When this happens, I can watch my voltage gauge drop down to 12v or so. Was thinking a Capacitor would solve the issue.
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I have a 2002 Pontiac Grand AM for about 4 days now the car has been running hot. When it gets too hot the car dies and I have to jump the battery. Could this be more then a simple thermostat problem?
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Over the past few months, my 1999 Dodge Durango with 64,000 miles on it and the 5.9 liter engine inexplainably dies when driving. It has happened about 4 times over the past 6 months. I will be driving along and all of the sudden, the car turns off while moving. I have to pull off the road and sit for a few minutes. After a bit, I start the car back up and it runs fine. This has occured when decelerating exiting the freeway, on a residential street while costing along and while accelerating on the freeway.
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I have a 1994 gmc sierra 4x4 5.7 with a rebuilt engine 2 yrs ago and it has started having a rough idle(surging/dies) I have replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, maf sensor, iac sensor, tps sensor, top half of the tb and injectors, distributor, ignition module, plugs and plug wires and still no change. Yesterday I cleaned the iac and seemed to straighten up a little but then got in it to go to work today and it was back to running rough again and seemed worse. I am at a loss.
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I have a 1998 Volkswagen GL. The car runs for 15-18 minutes at a time very smoothly and then it is like someone takes the key out of the ignition. It just dies for about 10-20 minutes then it will start back up again. I have used the diagnostic on my car and gotten rid of all codes, but one. The one code that I cannot get rid of is 1426. I also cannot find out what that code means other then just a general error message. What could be causing the car to be shutting down like that?
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Car dies after running about 6 miles mostly at idle 15 mins later will start back up and run for short time mostly dies at idle. I have checked converter normal temp , plugs are all white but not dark in color , fuel filter had some dirt so it was replaced, maf sensor was replaced in 2011
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Over the past few months, my 1999 Dodge Durango with 64,000 miles on it and the 5.9 liter engine inexplainably dies when driving. It has happened about 4 times over the past 6 months. I will be driving along and all of the sudden, the car turns off while moving. I have to pull off the road and sit for a few minutes. After a bit, I start the car back up and it runs fine. This has occurred when decelerating exiting the freeway, on a residential street while costing along and while accelerating on the freeway.
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So I have a 2005 Camry XLE, 3.0 l V6 with 160k miles. The car was running fine, but I decided to change the spark plugs today (overdue).
I went through the headache of removing the intake manifold, throttle body etc and everything seemed to go OK. I reassembled it all and now it won't idle properly.
It seems like a vacuum leak issue to me, but I have double checked the multiple hose connections. I did NOT disconnect the battery at any time.
I can Rev it up to 3 or 4000 rpm and it runs smoothly (all the cylinders seem to be firing) but it runs rough and dies without my foot on the accelerator. Also I noticed the exhaust manifold got cherry red like right now... after only a minute or two of running.
Are there any troubleshooting checks I can perform to narrow down the source of the vacuum leak?
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My 2000 impala starts when cold, runs for 10 min and dies, i found its losing spark when warm, i changed the coil packs, control module and cam sensor and have had no changes, it dies, and doesn't start, only turns over, i leave it for 30 min er so and it starts , runs for 10 and dies....
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Dies while driving down the road and usually will restart with no problems.Seems to happen more often when it gets hot out. IPR/ICP are good.It took a long time to start once also. I'm leaning toward fuel pump but ?
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