Touareg :: 2004 V6 Startup Hesitation And Freeway Surging
Jul 14, 2005
To make a long story long, my v6 developed a hesitation on startup after being driven and then sitting for a few hours. Sometimes so bad it almost dies - popping noise from under the bonnet and lurching would best describe the symptoms, the harder you press the accelerator the worse the symptoms. After about 5 to 10 seconds of driving goes away and never happens again until it sits of another few hours. Somewhat disconcerting when you decide to pull out in front of traffic....
Also recently started surging on freeway slightly and worse going up mountain passes at freeway speeds, may or may not be related. Does not have anything to do with brake predal being depressed, I can pressed the brake pedal and accelerator pedal at same time and car will rev and accelerate immediately upon brake predal release.
Talked to service advisor who told me that I needed to be sure and run premium in my vehicle which I always do. A couple days later with continued issues talked to my service advisor who then told me that the fuel in the NW had a problem and that I needed to run only mid grade and that would take care of the problem, which it did not. Talked to my service advisor again and he said that I needed to run only regular, that regular seemed to be taking care of the problem with the regional bad fuel all along he has been claiming that other manufactures are having the same problem Volvo, Saab, Ford on certain models.
I went along with one tank of regular did not make a difference on the hesitation, but made my vehicle more underpowered than normal. At this point I made a 2000 mile trip to CA and used CA fuel which is another completely different gas formulation than any other state in the west - 4 tank fulls of CA fuel made no difference same problem, both hesitation and surging. Took it back to dealer who then tried to tell me that it is a whole US problem with fuel....I wanted to call BS at that point, but agreed to let them keep it for a checkout, they kept if for 24 hours checking it out no codes, VW told them to run injector cleaner through it.
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For the past week or so, maybe even 10 days I have noticed that when I start the Touareg and press the Gas to go it hesitates, bad. I mean hesitate is an Understatement, it just doesn't move. This happens when it has been sitting for more than a few Hours, however when the Engine is warmed up this does not happen.
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I have a 04 V8 with a hesitation in the shifting. The VIN is in the 44000's. The dealer says there is nothing they can do to flash the tranny, they've tried and it won't let them. I found the TSB referring to the engine code and they insist it doesn't apply to my vehicle. Is there anyway to find out for myself whether or not it is possible?
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My 94 4Runner V6 has been acting up for over 4 months now. I've replaced the mass air flow sensor, the fuel pump, the fuel regulator, the O2 sensor, the spark plugs, spark plug wires, new distributor and rotor and last but not least the fuel line filter and dam it it's still screwed up. The spark plugs didn't show any signs of sooting or fouling in any way, I compared there color to Other used spark plugs and they looked good.
I've spent over $2000 on this 4Runner that had run perfect for almost 14 years and now I cannot even drive for 5 minutes without it bucking, hesitating, with No Power at all and eventually stalling. I also replaced the ECM or ECU with a good used one. I also cleaned the air intake and throttle body and cleaned and reattached the ground to the battery, the ECM, the coil which shows as being good, the ground to the engine from the firewall were also inspected and cleaned. I even bought a new gas cap for the gas tank and also had the fuel injectors cleaned at the dealer and "They Said The Engine Runs Perfect When It Is Hooked Up To The Fuel Injector Cleaner" but when it's hooked up to the fuel system again it acts up again.
One Thing About It IS When It's Acting Up If I Turn Off The Engine, While In Neutral And Restart It It Works Good For A Few Minutes Then Starts Acting Up Again. The engine is good, there are times it works Perfect for a few hours but Eventually it will act up.
Now that the summer is on us it's acting up even more because of using the air conditioning. It use to only act up when it would be warmed up or hot and only when there is a load on the engine, like driving around normally, but now it's even acting up when it's idling after just starting it.
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Got a problem with my R. 134k miles. About 4 months ago I had similar problems and was told it was a bad MAF. Of course wasn't covered by my warranty, so I decided to just give it a good cleaning and car ran fine up till now. Just started doing the same thing today. Doesn't want to idle, taking off is really hesitant then it just goes. Trans seems like it is struggling to find the correct gear sometimes when coming to a stop or taking off, sometimes jerks hard, maybe throttle position sensor, or idle control? Once you are moving it drives fine, only very low speeds and idling are the problem. Trying to avoid going to the dealership. What this could be? MAF need cleaned again or just replaced?
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I have a 2000 Grand Prix GT with about 125,000 miles on it. Whenever I accelerate gently on the pedal the rpm will waver back and forth, especially between 2000 and 3000 rpm's. It seems to hesitate as the rpm goes down and then surges back and forth almost on one second intervals until I either let go of the pedal or punch it down to kick it into overdrive.
I have had a code in the past that the o2 sensor by the cat convertor was getting messed up readings, can't recall the specific number off hand though. Do you think that these problems could be caused by a bad catalytic convertor? I have smelled the classic rotten egg smell before from my car too, but it didn't seem to smell when I smelled the exhaust tonight. How would I test this myself easily?
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My truck is just turning over 100k miles and I still love her like she was new. Recently I've noticed accelerator hesitation (especially in slow traffic) that wasn't there before. Also something new, the fuel system no longer bleeds pressure when I remove the cap to gas up. I think the lack of fuel system pressure has something to do with the hesitation. I did the easy thing and replaced the gas cap. I asked the dealer and they checked fuel pump(s) output pressure and said they were normal.
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I have a 2005 Ford Freestyle with 59,xxx miles. My wife and I drive it less than 7,000 miles p/year. About six months ago it began to surge (we had already taken it back to the dealer for some work on a recall related to surges while idling). However, the surge that now occurs is not related to the recall--it can happen anytime, even when on the highway while in cruise control at 70 mph. It makes the driveability of the car questionable. We have had it back to the Ford deal repeatedly, only to be told a number of high dollar things that seem to be based on guesses rather than actual data. No codes have come up with computer diagnostics.
We have also taken to independent mechanics, only to be told there is nothing wrong. Only once did a mechanic say that he 'felt' the surging when he test drove the vehicle. But even then, the shop said that they would have to do a tune-up (which raised a red flag with me because tune-ups no longer seem to be the proper term to be used with modern engine maintenance). I did a lot of research and as a result I asked a mechanic to test the fuel pump. The result is that the low pressure was 39.5 lbs, and, the high pressure was also 39.5 lbs.
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I have a 2000 5.2 ltr. Dodge Ram Van. Only in overdrive, only with the cruise on, there is a slight hesitation at freeway speeds every few seconds. The Chrysler dealer said it was the overdrive clutches going bad, to the tune of trans rebuild. Guess what? It didn't fix it.
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Since we know that most VW service sucks, I'm taking my 04 V8, Nav/Air Susp 35k miles in tomorrow because the whistling/rubbing noise was bad enough on the ride home from work last night that it started freaking me out.
I want to tell the service department to at LEAST check the following:
Whistling: Gets worse with speed and when the car gets warmed up. Sounds more like rubbing when you get going. Check the drive shaft bearing.
Running Gear Fault: Check air suspension piston rings ( I need to look this up again) Something to do with the air bag or air pump seal.
Hesitation: There should be a TSB for this that can be fixed with a computer adjustment.
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My extremely used Explorer was driven off the lot, and ran like a champ for 3 months. One morning, I started it up, and noticed a chugging sound. While backing it out of the driveway, the truck felt like it was going to rattle apart. This was a sudden change. When I hit about 40mph, and I'm in 3rd gear, the truck hesitates and chugs along. If I stomp on the accelerator, the truck will kick into 2nd gear, and stops chuging for a second, then the gear changes back to 3rd and the hesitation starts again. If I disconnect the battery for a few minutes, then connect, I can drive normally for about 10 minutes, then back to the surging/hesitation. I've heard this might be a problem with the oxygen sensors or the mass air flow sensor.
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1990 Maxima. The car hesitates/surges occassionally after warm start, but only surges for about first 1/4 mile, then its OK. Sometimes it idles low, especially when I come to a stop and apply brakes hard. I believe the two issues are related. This has been getting progressively worse over past few years.
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My 2008 Honda Civic 1.8L LX surges forward when driving down circular parking garage ramp with foot on brake; otherwise, the only problem is occasional hesitation. What is the cause?
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My truck - early 2000 CC short bed, 300K miles
Background on my problem: I had a short list of long overdue maintenance and updates to do that time and money kept me from tackling. Found a little of both so I replaced the water pump, HPOP lines, re O-ringed the HPOP/IPR, deleted the AIH, replaced all of the brake lines in the engine bay, put new fuel lines to the filter bowl. All of this took me about 2 weeks so the truck sat with the batteries out for that long.
After buttoning it all up, it fired right up, a little slower than normal but figured that was air in the fuel lines, HPOP, etc. The only issue I had was the battery light stayed on. Thinking I had an alternator issue, I checked it and it was getting about 14.25v so figured that was good. I used it regularly for about 3 weeks, the light stayed on, and noticed some surging during warm up and some low rpm hesitation.
Then it stop dead on me driving down the road. Turns out it was all my doing, I had torqued the bolts on the water pump pulley but didn't use Locktite. The bolts backed out, shredded the belt, and ended up yanking the CPS wire harness out of the sensor. So that made total sense.
Fast forward another week, got new wiring pigtail and CPS (never replaced it before now) from a couple of the good FTE vendors. I am not sure about the wiring on the pigtail, my truck has a green, blue and brown/gray wires, the wiring diagram I found online showed green, blue and gray. I wired it connecting the brown/gray where the gray line goes (center contact) and closed everything up.
Another thing to mention is that I have an Edge Juice with Attitude that has been on the truck since '06. I lost that connector in the process and they were absolutely no support in trying to get me running again. Wouldn't or couldn't tell me which wire they connect to so I used the green wire which is the CPS signal wire to the ECM. Once I am running again, going to get rid of the Edge.
So that is where I am now. No start, I've been reading some of the "what to do" posts, the most likely is that I don't see the tach bounce when trying to start. So I want to check the wiring to make sure I have good connections to the CPS.
So I don't have any diagnostic software to read codes, etc. I really need to fix this myself and only have one set of hands most of the time. Not really sure what the problem was before it stopped running and now I can't diagnose the surging and hesitating.
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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2 wks ago I was running down I95 at about 95-100 mph (basically floored) in a rush to get somewhere on time. Since then my truck has been running for crap. It threw the p0171 code when I checked it. When driving under normal conditions it pings a lot and my mpg is down about 3 mpg and has this hesitation when you get on it. Even when you accelerate at a normal rate it surges a little, it pings a lot and has a loss of power, about 30-40%. It feels really sluggish and doesnt want to pull and then you will feel it starting to pull a little harder then it starts to surge/hesitate a little again.
Truck has 147k on it. I was having a similar situation until I had the plugs replaced at 125k, so I figured the plugs shouldn't be the problem. So I replaced the fuel and air filters, cleaned the maf w/maf cleaner and Throttle body w/tb cleaner and replaced the pcv with a new one from ford. Still pings bad under load and still has the hesitation/surging and crappy fuel economy. Its running smoother but no fix yet. This is crazy trying to pinpoint this issue. The detonating isnt crappy gas because I used super and it still detonates quite a bit.
Its a 06' F250 5.4 3V XLT Lariat SC FX4....
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My garage is about 200 ft from the road and every morning when I backout the drive way I get the engine surge about 4-5 times, so its like I am flooring it when I am backing up, letting off, then flooring it.
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Our Egg will occasionally surge at steady speeds - i.e it will jerk fore and aft with no change in accelerator pedal settings. This is an intermittent problem that seems worse when ambient temperatures are low. It isn't yet annoying enough to warrant a trip to the dealer (they seem clueless about this car anyway!).
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I bought a 2002 santa fe last week. it was a non runner. the previous owner said he took it to the garage for a crank oil seal leak. when he went to collect the car they had removed the head saying oil was leaking from the gasket. he towed it away and i bought it. i have refitted the head. the engine runs smooth at idle. when i first start up in the morning there is a loud rattle for a second or so. it sounds like a diesel starting up. when i am driving it hesitates and seems to lose power. also at a certain position on the accelerator pedal this rattle is there. it goes away when i accelerate more.
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This weekend I was driving home from my parents and noticed that on flat ground at a constant pace there seemed to be surging of some sort...Although I am not sure that surging is exactly what it was, but it is the best word to describe it.
Basically, if I kept my foot at an even speed (not accelerating or decelerating) I would get very subtle movement in what seemed to be either the differential or the transmission. No error codes were thrown and the battery gauge was spiked at 14 solid.
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I have a slight hesitation below 20 mph. If you release the gas for a second or so then attempt to accelerate again there is a slight hesitation then the car will accelerate...
I have had the the upgrade that solved the hesitation issue when making a turn...but this hesitation continues...
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