Touareg :: 2004 V6 Began To Stutter When Stepping On Gas
Jan 30, 2010
My 04 V6 began to stutter when stepping on the gas today, after running fine for about an hour. It was all of a sudden like driving on a rumble strip. When stopped, the idle was totally erratic and the car barely ran. I called the dealer and they indicated that the coils have been recalled ( received an email on this, this past week) and said to tow it in...not drive it in. These are the exact symptoms of the coils going bad. Its in being fixed today...under the recall. This came on so fast it was amazing. Just thought I would warn everyone to have it taken care of now as they said if you drive it too long, it would be pumping gas into the exhaust system....then BOOM.
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I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 Liter 4X4 supercrew with 6" lift and 35" tires. The truck has 123K miles on it. I am the second owner of the truck. In early fall the truck started making what I can only describe as a mild and inconsistent "stutter" upon accelerating between 40-50 MPH. It does not do it all of the time and really depends on the speed at which you accelerate. Sometimes it will happen between 50-55 MPH but primarily it is between 40-50. If you accelerate quickly though at that speed, it rarely ever happens.
Anyways, I changed the fuel filter (pretty sure it was the original as it was nasty and had chunks falling out of it), flushed the fuel injector system at a shop, gassed it up and treated the tank with fuel treatment, and removed the AIRRAID air filter, cleaned it out (blew out with air, flushed with water, dried and re-oiled it). The truck had A LOT more power behind it, my fuel mileage increased and for about a day, this stuttering did not occur. It has now started up again.
My question is whether or not this could be caused by old spark plugs or is it a transmission issue? The truck runs great otherwise. We've looked at the plugs and they appear to be the original plugs. I bought the truck with about 100K on it and have put the rest of the miles on myself. I'm trying to figure out if it is an issue with the plugs or if it is related to the automatic transmission as I'm sure the fluid hasn't been changed in it either. I know I'm going to have to do both but want to know what is more likely the issue at hand.
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While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
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98k miles and if the car is on a slight incline and your backing up or creeping forward it feels like you are going over a rumble strip. that slight stuttering feeling. no codes have tripped. I've asked the toyota dealership and they don't know what could be the problem. The trans axle fluid was changed at 88k and from what i was told there were no metal shavings in the fluid. it was a little dark but after going 88k miles i assume it would be.
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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Changed my spark plugs and fuel filter but my fuel mileage seems to go down, used to get a average of almost 16mpg on a tank, now I'm down to 13.5mpg and also have the occasional stutter at different speeds/rpms. Is it time for new coils?
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Is there a correlation between a Prius sitting in the hot sun and the computer malfunctioning? When I came out from a movie yesterday, the temps read 106 degrees outside the car. The emergency brake light was on, though the brake was off. I pumped the brake on/off a couple of times, but the light stayed on. As I pulled out, the brake seemed to engage, then disengage causing the engine to stutter and surge. The service tech today tells me the computer is not communicating and at 50,000 miles. Is it worth the money to get the new computer? Will the car be safe afterwards?
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What this could be? Doesn't happen every time but when you start the car I can hear something like "pssh psssh pssh psssssssssss...." below the car like some hose has a hole in it or disconnected etc.. but it comes from under/back of the car... fuel lines? fuel pump? No CEL or anything, car drives. Normally... mpg is good...
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Yesterday, my 2002 Elantra started to rev ferociously (I was turning a corner in 1st gear), so I put it in neutral, and the engine calmed down. I shifted back to 1st, then 2nd, and the engine started to rev up again without me stepping on the gas. I pulled over and stopped the car. After 10 minutes, I started the car and put it in neutral. The engine idled normally, then started revving up again - really fast - all by itself! I left the car overnight and this morning, put WD-40 on the accelerator cable and today it drove fine, so far.
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My wife was driving to work this morning in her 08 Santa Fe (2.7) and said she had very little/no response when stepping on the gas.
Check engine, ESC off, and the AWD light (drivetrain light) were all illuminated.
She turned the car off and when she turned it back on, only the CEL remained illuminated - it drove better, but still rough.
AutoZone pulled the codes and we've got P1295, P2106, and P2135.
From what I've seen on this site, it sounds like the TPS - would those codes be consistent with that issue?
Also, since we're just out of warranty, is that something I can fix myself? Looks like a pretty easy part to replace ... but I've heard there's something about have to flash the ECM?
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I have a 2001 Honda Accord (LX SEDAN 4 DOOR, 4 CYL). Am a bit paranoid after reading online about all the transmission problems people have with this car. The other day when I was starting up from the stop light it had a moment where I was stepping on the gas and it felt like I was in neutral-- not going anywhere. This is the only time it happened and it was only for a few seconds.
Wondering if you think this is the sign of an impending transmission failure or whether it just needs some kind of maintenance?
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For the last several days, every morning when I stepped on the brake the first time in the morning, there was a "ka-luck" sound. Then throughout the day, the brake had no such sound and behaved normally. Is the "ka-luck" sound normal and why it happens? Winter/Rain?
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I have two Hyundais - 2011 Sonata SE and a 2008 Santa Fe Limited. here is my problem with the Santa Fe.
Brakes: Changed front rotors and pads - rear had the rotors resurfaced and installed new pads. Still get a lot of pulsation when stepping on brake pedal. Is there anything else I should be checking?
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Passat Front End Noises? Loud "crack" noise when stepping on gas after hard braking....I thought...control arms gone again (replace em @ 55K miles)...so I replaced all the control arms... NOISE LESS but still there! I've replaced motor mounts and just checked them..no leaks, so engine shifting cant be it... I replaced the "stretch torqued" subframe bolts when I did lower rear control arms..so they're tight...What can it be??
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My son just bought a 09 Corolla LE and he gets this clicking noise every time the brakes are applied. The clicking noise comes from the Shifter.
I know that about the Shift Lock Solenoid, but this clicking sound is loud. I have been told that this is normal. So, I thought if this is what 10th Gen owners here is experiencing the same.
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I get a clunk noise when stepping on and releasing the brakes occasionally but not always. This occurs even with the engine off and the vehicle stationary. I also hear some other noise like some sort of vacuum servo thing is happening.
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This first occurred about 2 weeks ago, I had a complete loss of power when stepping on the gas pedal. The engine did not rev or anything, completely unresponsive and the car was just gliding. I've had loss of battery power in the past where the engine was still going, just straining hard, but this was not like it as now the engine was completely not responding either.
I can't recall if it was going up or downhill -- it was around time the incline changed in a freeway ramp that began up and then moves down. At first I thought it was me accidentally putting it on neutral as I have a habit of resting my hand on the shift knob, but putting it in/out of drive did not work initially but after the 2nd try everything was back to normal so I thought nothing of it afterwards.
But if happened again this morning, again on a hill transition, either right before the top of a hill or right as I was coming down it. This time I know I did not have my hand on the shift knob. It resolved itself about the same, I had to shift in/out of drive a few times and it worked fine again a few seconds later.
I've been good with maintenance and changing out everything that they recommended, and also did the IMA battery recall upgrade.
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I have this clicking sound from the gear of my car every time i step on the brakes, is it normal or do i have something to worry about...
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Have all kinds of front end knocks and clunks going over bumps and when stepping on the brakes when backing up. Looking to make a parts list to replace everything at once. I see the upper control arm has 2 bushings and a ball joint, the lower control arm has a bunch of bushings and a ball joint. What else should I replace?
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I recently purchased a 2014 Prius with the package 5 trim. I'm completely loving the car, but noticed when stepping on the brake pedal I hear a soft "swoosh" noise from under the dash. Almost like a short vacuum or sucking sound. The car has 500 miles, and I don't recall hearing that noise initially.
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Just bought a 2001 v10 ford excursion limited with 127xxx miles. I have a few questions.
1. I can't get the front tires to rotate while parked and stepping on the brakes. I thought it was caused by the 35 inch BFG goodrich all terrian tires and a lift kit i dont know how tall but apparently i'm just a sucker. From the searches i did, i think the problem is that either the power steering or brakes doesn't have sufficient pressure to power both at the same time. what is the fix to this?
2. I found metal shaving in the rear differential. For lack of picture, the best i can describe it is that it looks like shaving off an ice block. Also, the fluid is gray and consistency of sludge. I searched and some said the shaving is normal and others said fix now. Which is it? I assume that the rear differential fluid needs to be changed.
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