Touareg :: 2004 V6 Engine Hesitating And Not Reacting
Jan 10, 2007
Exhaust signal on MFI ... Yesterday in the morning this sign came few times blinking and then became solid. I felt like the engine was "hesitating" and not reacting. Later on the day it disappeared.
This morning came again. When I check the manual at section 3.1 page 39, it says something about "not enough oxygen..." Its been cold here in Charlotte NC, around 28F overnight and I am leaving the car on the driveway since we moved to a new home. Should I rush to the dealer?
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It's a 2004 V8 Touareg with 100k miles.
Getting horrible misfires and they're jumping around to different cylinders + other intermittent codes. The symptoms are ROUGH idle, and hesitating/shaking under acceleration.
The MIL has never come on in this car. But, it illuminates when you turn the key forward. (Almost like previous owner coded the light out?)
Replaced all 8 spark plugs, just ordered 8 new ignition coils. Hoping the misfires are the coil packs but obviously theres some other stuff going on here.
Pulled codes 2 weeks ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
4) warm up catalyst efficiency below threshold bank 2 (P0431)
5) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 1 (P0491)
6) secondary air injection system insufficient flow bank 2 (P0492)
7) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes 1 week ago:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) 02 Sensor Circuit Slow Response Bank 2 Sensor 1 (P0153)
Pulled codes tonight:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 2 (P0302)
3) misfire cylinder 3 (P0303)
4) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
Cleared codes. Swapped ignition coils from 2 & 3 with 7 & 8. Drove around the block, then re-ran them:
1) random/multiple misfire (P0300)
2) misfire cylinder 4 (P0304)
3) misfire cylinder 5 (P0305)
4) misfire cylinder 6 (P0206)
5) misfire cylinder 7 (P0307)
6) misfire cylinder 8 (P0308 )
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My engine light went on when driving about 45mph. At same time engine began to bog down, then accelerate - then bog down again.Car is a 04 pt cruiser, Chrysler 4 cylinder Engine light still on and it starts but it seems to be running roughly.
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Problems on my '05 Tour. I have nearly 800 miles on it and it has visited the svc. dept. twice already. First because the Triptonic was hesitating, 3rd gear would not engage. The service manager beat the snot out of it and verified there is some hesitation. His answer was "vw has not received the new software to correct this problem, so don't use your Triptonic".
Well after driving it for a week I notice the shift points are all over the place. Gears 1-5 fly by and I am not past 2k rpms doing 30mph and in 6th gear, so I take it back again! Do you know how hard a lane change is doing 30 mph in this heavy truck and gas costing as much as it does! Not only that, but when your in 5 or 6 the car bucks...moves kind of in a jerky motion, and I only put premium gas so I know it's not the gas! Also I have this rattling noise coming out of the cluster when your foot is on the brake and your in drive.
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I have an 2004 treg V10. I put in diesel yesterday morning(10/13/2010). I went to work, everything was fine. On my way home I started feeling a slight hesitation and sputtering in the motor. It's something that I noticed but didn't give much thought. 10 minutes into the drive and the sputtering became more noticeable. To the point where I would floor the pedal and the treg wouldn't go anywhere, it felt like all the power got drained from the motor. I came to a stop, and listened the engine, no noticeable change in engine noise. Everything seemed fine, but the truck was sputtering every time I would press the gas pedal. I parked the truck for the night and forgot about it.
Now this morning. Driving around in some local streets I def felt like something was off with the truck, it felt like it had a V6 not a V10. took it on the highway and opened her up, car took way too long to get up to speed and once it reached 90 MPH it didn't want to go any faster, it just stayed there. I took an exit off the highway and stopped at a light and the car sputtered and hesitated and eventually stalled at the light. I tried re-starting the truck and it was just stay in the crank position. The battery light came on. I tried starting it again and it would just remain in the crank position. It eventually turned over and started after cranking it for about 5 or 6 times. But the car is still sputtering a bit.
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I changed the spark plugs in my daughters 2003 camry, and now it is sputtering and and hesitating. is there a chance I put them in to tight? The check engine light is on, and it will start blinking for a few seconds and then stop blinking and remain on when the car gets up to speed. The car wasn't doing this before the sparkplug change.
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I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...
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I have a 2010 Forte EX with 47,000 on it. It seems to have a "cold start" problem when temps are cold. For the first 10-15 min. when on the highway the engine starts cutting out or hesitating and the check engine light flashes off and on. It also stalls on occasion at stop lights. After those 10 min. the car runs fine. I have taken it to the Kia dealer and they have re-created the problem but was told there was no codes for the check engine light. So, apparently the dealer can't do anything without a code and Kia Corp. doesn't know what to do either! What could be causing this "cold start" problem, such as fuel pump, fuel filter etc? The dealer said they checked those things and those components check out. Are there no mechanics anymore or just computer techs that run diagnostics and let the codes tell them what is wrong?!!
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I have a 2004 2.4 liter camry .
When I first started the car it hesitated a bit but,it was very cold. I went to give it a shot of gas but had no pedal response . I shut the car off gave the gas pedal a few whacks and it worked fine .
On the way home the car worked fine for about 30 km , just before I got home the pedal had no response again, shut the car off , started it and drove home .
The next day it was worse , so I put it on a scanner ,the scans said bad throttle position sensor (tps) and also a few codes for throttle body valve sticking or bad signal .
I tried the easy fix first and changed the gas pedal with sensor , same thing , then I changed the throttle body itself , same thing, then went a installed a computer (ecu) and that won't even start the car .
My ecu 89661-06a0, replaced it with 89661-06a2.
The car will start on all 4 cyl and idle high for a few sec then drop like normal , once the idle hits 8k rpm the car is only fires on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 , (changed then swapped coils no difference) as its idling on 2 cylinders and I press the gas pedal it will rev to about 2k rpm and run on all 4.
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I have an 04 MDX it has over 100k on it, and about the time it was approaching that milestone, the transmission started "hesitating" when shifting into overdrive.... then it began to try to shift into overdrive way to early driving in town.... and it felt like we were riding across rumble strips every time it would do this.....We have found out.... that if we do not move the transmission selector lever into the overdrive position, but leave it in D4 [thus manually avoiding the overdrive] it does just fine....
We just suffer in the gas mileage dept., but it does not feel like the transmission is going to fall out while riding in town....My question is; is there a way to disconnect or disable the overdrive so that no matter what gear someone puts it in, it will not try to shift into overdrive by itself.When I am driving it; it is not an issue, I remember to not use overdrive every time; but when the wife or the children drive, they sometimes forget, and I am afraid it is going to do real damage beyond low gas mileage......
I have heard that this is a common problem with this vehicle, and that replacing the transmission is a very short-lived solution, as the problem is design related and will eventually happen again.
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My 2003 Honda Accord with 101,000 miles started hesitating on acceleration, and a day later my check engine light came on. I went to the auto parts store to borrow one of their diagnostic computers. The code I received for the engine light was from my O2 sensor. What can cause the hesitation and the O2 sensor to read faulty? I have had several O2 sensors go out on other vehicles, but that hasn’t caused any other symptoms before. I would like it to be that simple, seeing as how easy they are to replace, but I don’t want to get my hopes up. Anyway, the car is parked now and I am taking the bus because I can’t afford to take it to a mechanic. I don’t want to waste any money by starting to replace things without having better direction.
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Fault code : P1586 MT/AT codification, no check engine light, the glow light is blinking when I give ignition but if I turn off and turn the ignition on again the light it will go off. What I noticed is between 1500rpm and 2000rpm the engine is hesitating, like not getting enough fuel.
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My 2001 F-150 4.6L was hesitating around 1500 RPM and the check engine light was on, dealer said the oxygen sensors needed to be cleaned. Had the work done and the problem still exists, the check engine light intermittently came on. I tried 89 octane fuel and the check engine light is off and the engine runs smoothly. I'm just a weekend mechanic and can do mostly basic stuff but the only time I've come across something like this is when I accidentally put 87 octane in my bike.
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My daughter's 2004 Camry V6 has been hesitating when starting from a stationary position or when accelerating after slowing down. Dealer has been having hard time identifying cause but thinks it is an oxygen sensor. Had one sensor replaced last fall when light came on. Tech Rep says there are four sensors. At least one is bad but the other two sensors may also be bad. Is there really four oxygen sensors in the 2004 Camry? Would this cause the hesitation when accelerating?
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2003 NISSAN Xterra
Problem started a couple of days ago. While driving the car normally it suddenly stopped. I was able to restart it but it turned off again 60 seconds later. This has gone on with the engine running from 10 minutes to 10 seconds. The battery terminals and all cables are clean. Distributor cap and rotors have been cleaned. Fuel pump replaced last night. I still get the problem. Error codes listed were: P0328 - Pre Detonation (knock sensor) Bank 1 causes could be restricted fuel - over temp engine. Now this error has been coming up for five years and I've replaced the sensor numerous times. P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect RatioP0102 - Mass Air Flow Low InputP1148 - Closed Loop Control Function, BANK 1P0420 - Catalytic Convertor, BANK 1P0134 - O2 Sensor No Activity, BANK 1
Regarding Fuel Starvation - NOPE, Engine Too Hot (it wasn't), Second Gear Not Within Ratio (never had gear problems), Knock Sensor and most error codes have been related to bank one. Error codes on car computer were erased and engine is still hesitating slightly and stopping. Just checked Mass Airflow Sensor and it looks clean.
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I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
I got the Check Engine/VSC/Triangle of Death errors yesterday. Autozone reports it is P0A80 (replace Hybrid battery) though no additional details reported.
I'm the original owner, and after some reading suspect it could be something else because:
1. In 8 years, the starter battery has never been replaced.
2. For about two months, the throttle has been hesitating when first accelerating (within first five minutes of turning it on). Yes, it is the hot summer months (though mild compared to previous summers). And the hesitation occurs even in the morning before things really heat up. This is definitely even worse after the error lights came on.
I've seen recommendations to replace the starter battery first. And other recommendations for "throttle body cleaning." I'm not a mechanic, but obviously would hate to have the hybrid pack replaced if it is something else.
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My 2007 Ford F150 Lariat (5.4L) with 82k miles popped a P0307 (#7 misfire) code one chilly morning. It began stumbing and hesitating a bit between 25-35mph, and each time it occurred, the engine light would flash on and off. Hesitation clears and light goes steady. Cleared the code and didn't see problems again for a month...until the next cold day (freezing temps). Popped again and hesitation returned. Ford dealer wants to change plugs. I've read coils can also cause the issue. Not sure if I can do either myself.
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I have a 02 ex 118,000 on it, not a every day driver, mostly weekend and camper towing. The truck was running great, stopped at a light and the engine started hesitating, the od light was flashing, and then it died.. started right back up no od light, but was still hesitating/missing took it to a local shop, they hooked up a scanner and said that several coils were misfiring. My question, replace all coils? go with oem coils, or aftermakert?
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I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
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We have a 2004 Volkswagen Touareg . 1000 miles ago the check engine light came on and the dealer (I will never go back again) said the catalytic converters were shot. We were going to get second opinion but when we picked up the car the engine light was off....so 1,000 miles later it came back on. Is it a good for us to buy a diagnostic tester and see what the issue is ourselves then take it to a mechanic and have them fix that exact issue?
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I have a 04 V8 Automatic. In the last few days, only once in a while, with no repeating pattern, it has had trouble starting. The starter cycles but the engine do not turn over.
Battery: I have reviewed the battery charge by checking the voltage on the dash meter before attempting to start and it is consistently over 12V and at 14V when it is running. Usually after multiple attempts it starts or in some cases if I wait and come back it starts. I have never had to jump it. Based in this I ruled out the battery since - if it was drained or not holding its charge I should not have been able to start it - correct?
Items draining battery: I read many posts indicating problems with items such as the compass draining the battery after the vehicle is shut off. I do not think this is the issue either since the battery is holding its charge.
Fuel Pump: I am thinking it is the fuel pump not properly priming when I open the door. I tried to test this by opening the door, listening for the pump priming then attempting to start it. It started whether or not I heard the pump prime. Should the pump prime every time after the engine is shut off? Is this a valid test or does the pump only prime after driving? Is there a better way to validate if it is the pump? Would this show up in the error codes? (I do not have a way to check the codes other than taking it to the dealer)
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