Touareg :: 2004 V10 TDI Sluggish And Doesn't Downshift To Accelerate Quickly
Jun 29, 2008
My 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
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I noticed recently that my car has been running a little sluggish lately and can't figure out why. What I mean by sluggish is that when I press the gas the car is relatively slow to get up to speed. Getting onto the freeway for example, or just trying to take off "quickly" (it's a Hybrid so not trying to race anyone) just not noticing the car doesn't seem to get up to speed as quickly as before.
This is with ECO mode on or off, just more noticeable with it on. Just got the oil changed this morning, still noticing it.
The car has only about 35K on it so really puzzled as to what might be causing this problem.
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I have 3 sound bytes/videos. Probably best to listen with headphones or decent speakers to get the full effect. The issue has gotten worse. Seems to be worse especially in the a.m. when cold.
When I accelerate fairly quickly, not wide open, there is a weird noise of whooshing air, his or escaping air etc. It could be described as some type of whirring noise too.
I can let off the throttle and push slowly into it and it goes again. Only happens under a decent amount of engine load. Doesn't seem to matter what gear as long as it is under the same type of engine load.
It is coming from the passenger side engine bay as far as I can tell since I'm driving.
Here are the links: YouTube ....
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My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
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I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
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Few weeks ago I bought my first Lexus, an '07 GX 470. It has roughly 75,000 miles on it, 2 previous owners before me. Anyway, I hear a noise sometimes which either sounds like a slight belt slip or fuel being pumped into the injectors when I give it a good amount of gas and the engine downshifts to accelerate. I had the dealer replace the drive belt(serpentine belt) because of 2 reasons, it needed to be replaced and I thought that could be the problem(I did not have to pay for it since I have had some problems with the Lexus dealership I bought it from, they did it as a "goodwill" gesture, that's a story for another thread) and inspect the tensioner and pulleys, they said the pulleys and tensioner were in good working order.
I drove the GX home tonight after said replacement, and I still noticed the same noise. The best I can describe it is like I said above, a slight belt slipping noise or it could also be described I guess as fuel being injected under acceleration as soon as the trans downshifts to accelerate. I am just curious if this is normal for this engine or do I have a possible problem? It's covered under the Lexus used car warranty for another 5 months so if there is something wrong, obviously I would like it fixed under warranty if something is wrong. One thing I should probably mention is, the noise is semi quiet and I guess the average person might not even notice it.
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My wife's 2004 v-6 has finally come to the point of harsh downshifting between 2nd and 1st,that she finally said something to me about it and that is unusual as she has the kids and music going so she hardly ever notices anything like that. I took it to the dealer at the 60k service and demonstrated the problem to them. Well, they did some software update 01210000 and it was supposed to be fixed. Well it isn't. and of course as before it does this intermittently so after they updated and drove it for a mile they considered it fixed. BUT it still does it.... It is a real harsh clunk/downshift just as you almost stop going from 2nd to 1st ? you feel it and hear it ....
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Just left my lexus dealer after getting an oil change. When I go WOT with the car in auto mode (whether or not in sport mode), it is very sluggish to downshift and when it finally does downshift, will accelerate very slowly above 4,000 rpm...almost no power.
In manual mode, no issue, accelerates great. All fluids are fine and no CEL. Gonna take it back to dealer in a few minutes.. Dealer has no clue what would cause the issue, they did not reset the ECU or do anything other than change oil and filter.
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'04 Nissan Pathfinder 3.5L ~150k: P0011 and P0021
Friend's vehicle. OBD-II codes indicate Intake Valve Timing Control Bank1 and Bank2. Vehicle drives OK most of the time, but then has lapses of lost power where you step on the gas and the vehicle doesn't accelerate accordingly. RPMs rise, but tranny doesn't seem to shift at the right time. Overdrive button OFF doesn't seem to have any affect. Codes have been erased and returned the next day.
Is this Camshaft-related, as in Camshaft Position sensor? I had this issue with my '97 Taurus, but in that case it threw the code explicitly for the CMP sensor.
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My 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
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I have found that when I accelerate quickly, while entering the expressway or getting around a semi for example, a burning smell enters the car. I imagine it's oil but uncertain. The smell occurs shortly after the quick acceleration and it doesn't occur consistently.
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When I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
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My Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
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Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
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My 2006 Volvo S60 turbo has about 116K miles and noticed a couple times when I punch the gas to accelerate quickly (like to pass someone on the interstate) that it will make this quick jerky thing (as though I ran over some rumble strips). I normally drive like a grandma so this has only happened a couple times. Today I was on the interstate and decided to test this out and sure enough it would quickly bump-bump-bump before the gas/acceleration kicked in. It never stalled, but now I am paranoid.
Also, it occasionally "feels" like it takes the car longer than normal to start. There is no pattern to this. It will happen first thing in the morning, but I have noticed it more often when I stop to drop my son off and get back in the car. I will crank the key and the RPM dial will shoot up twice really quickly and then be normal.
Maybe you should also know that when I first got the car, I filled it up with gas and started driving and it died. We checked the fuses and the fuel pump fuse had burned out so we changed it and all was right again.
I bought this as a high mileage car (60K) in 2007 and have not done much to it since (air filter, oil, tires, brakes). Yes, that means I have not gotten my transmission fluid changed or any recommended dealer maintenance.
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My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
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I searched a lot but did not find these symptoms on my 1992 Aerostar 3.0 2WD with A4LD transmission.
In overdrive, accelerate to down shift, and the transmission goes out of gear. Engine revs as if it was taken out of gear. Manually shift to Drive, and it works fine.
Overdrive works fine if at speed, and works to shift up, but if going slow enough to drop to lower gear, transmission goes out of gear. Manually in drive, works fine.
I may have other symptoms, but this was on the way home from work, and I just parked it. I checked fluid level, and it was fine, still in the cross-hatch area of the stick, light colored oil, no smell.
I will replace the modulator and replace the filter, and see what that will do. If the overdrive works at overdrive speed, I do not see how that could be an overdrive housing failure that I have seen in many posts. I am aware of keeping track of the pin for the modulator.
I also have read that band adjustment is not a good idea. If they are worn that bad, they should be replaced. I don't think it is a band or clutch problem. I think it is a shift control problem. We will start with the modulator and filter and take it from there.
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My battery died quick and my car doesn't start anymore it starts but it's turns right bak off I scanned it and code p0688 came out something about a relay.
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93, 3.1 Left work the other day, started to back out of the spot when I noticed the car was a little louder than normal. Acted like it didn't have as much power. Luckily I don't live far so I went ahead and drove on home. Car was shaky and sluggish, not wanting to accelerate. My first instinct was the cat. was clogged, but I let someone else look at it and they determined that it was not the cat. A little later, looked under the hood to find that the water pump was spitting coolant up on the underside of the hood.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban K1500 4 wheel drive. It has a 5.7 liter engine and has 360,000 miles. I recently had a fuel pump put in last year. It is now running sluggish when I accelerate it will not go. This happens after it seems to warm up about 15 minutes of driving. I just replaced the fuel filter thinking that it may have been plugged up but it is still running poorly. When I put the fuel pressure gauge on it, it read 61-62 during start up and then dropped down to 57-59 (pulsates rapidly) after I started it.
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So I put one more extra quart or oil in accidently, and my car started being sluggish while trying to accelerate, no backfiring, just some gray smoke, then the smoke went away, and it stopped being sluggish, the boys at work are emptying out the oil right now, is this normal? Like, the car is working perfectly fine now...
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