Touareg :: 2004 - Putting Headlights Back On?
Mar 8, 2009
I've replaced my headlights. the problem is putting it back on. I twist to a lock, but the headlights get loose in a couple of days and it needs to be tighten. I don't want to twist too hard in case anything breaks. Is there a way to adjust the headlight to ensure it being lock? I know I'm suppose to hear like a loud click when it's lock.
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I have a 2004 V8 and one of the headlights seems to be more dim than the other. Why? The car doesn't seem to be the only one that does that, but I've seen another one with the same problem.
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I Put my stock downpipe back on while having a CEL... never got the stage 2 flash. I can t reset the CEL it keeps coming back on. Do it will reset itself eventually or do I have another problem? It is the cat code I forget the number.
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My backup camera stopped turning on when I put the car in reverse. Why? I'm thinking it might be a fuse issue, but I can seem to figure out which fuse from the information in the manual.
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I thought my t-reg had this feature. Where you put key in the drivers door and it will roll up or down the windows in the order of which they were last used.
Same thing with sunroof. I vaguely remember using this... but it's not working.
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I just got my new 2004 t-reg three weeks ago. We have experienced an onslaught of rain the past week here in the east and i noticed that my window leaks water into the tub of my trunk and down the back sidewall when the trunk is fully opened. Little droplets coming through and causing some serious soaking of my trunk area.
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I just got a 04 Touareg and I have the strange issue that the back passenger door won't lock. All other doors close and when I open this one door the alarm goes off. I don't have keyless entry; I tried using the remote, the normal lock on the drivers side as well as all four door lock switches, nada. Surprisingly when I unlock the car I hear a click inside the door so it seems there is at least a electrical connection. I already checked the cable plugs going from the door but they all seem to be in place.
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I collapsed the rear seats this morning, loaded the Treg up with stuff (nothing too heavy) and drove 200 miles. Got home, unloaded stuff and then tried to put the seats back up. The center seat belt is integrated into the passenger side 60% folding seat. But for some reason it's now "locked" as the belts do when the car is in an accident.
Since the belt is tight as it is in the lowered position, it will not allow me to lift up the back portion of the seat. After looking at it in the somewhat narrow view I have from between the floor and the lowered back rest, I can see that when I try to lift the back rest, the belt needs to slack some to allow the seat back to go all the way up. But since it catches, it only allow the seat back to raise about 6" before it's too tight to raise the seat back anymore.
I looked at the mounting bolts for the bottom portion of the belt in the space I can see and I see a 12 point star pattern bolt (not sure of proper name). With my Passat, I was able to find a suitable allen wrench that fits in the 12 point star pattern bolt that controls the back door catch for adjustment purposes. But with this one, I tried both metric and SAE and neither has a close enough match.
The belt locking mechanism allows for about 1" of belt travel before it locks. I've jiggled with the belt trying to get the mechanism to unlock so I don't have to remove the belt anchor point on the floor of the car (which I don't have the right wrench for). Anything I can do with the belt? Or do I just go after getting the right wrench and undoing the anchor to allow more belt slack to reset the belt?
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I have a 2008 Prius. In 2009, I got into a collision, and the car required extensive body work. This week, I took my car to the mechanic to repair the air conditioning system - only warm air was blowing out. According to my mechanic, the compressor went out because the auto body shop put in the wrong oil in the air conditioning system and re-installed the fans backwards. I got my car back today, and the air conditioning works really great!
However, my family spoke to their mechanic (different person from my mechanic), and he indicated that used compressors are dangerous due to the high likelihood that contaminants will be leaked. This sounds completely ludicrous to me. My mechanic said that the other mechanic's concerns are unfounded.
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After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
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2004 silverado, 2wd, V6, 150,000 miles on it. New plugs and wires 2 years ago. New fuel pump and fuel filter last summer. Truck was running fine but I did notice the last couple of mornings while I was driving the headlights would dim a little bit then go back to normal. Yesterday afternoon it started like it was 15 below out. Turned over kinda slow. But it wasn't that cold out. Anyway the headlights and dash lights were really dim. I got the truck in the driveway, revved the engine and they didn't get any brighter. The truck started running ruff and eventually quit. When I tried to restart it, it just clicked. When I turned the key off the dash lights got bright again.
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A little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
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My santa fe has been great but recently after putting fuel in, it does not seem to want to start.turns over and runs for a couple seconds then dies out. Have to keep accelerator pushed down for it to keep running. after that it seems to run and crank ok. Why it keeps dying out after fueling?
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My 04 elantra starting acting up yesterday. It has started jumping/ rocking entire car when putting in to reverse. What might cause this problem. It is hard to describe what it is doing being I know nothing about cars. It is a large jolt when going into reverse.
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I have taken my 2004 Pruis into the Toyota dealership and have been told that there is nothing wrong with my car and it is safe to drive. Here is what is happening.
Sometimes when I start my car and put the car into gear, which you are not supposed to be able to do without your foot on the brake, the car will start rolling before I take my foot off of the brake. I am on level ground when this happens, and I am positive I have my foot firmly on the brake. My first inclination is to push harder on the brake, which does nothing. If I take my foot off of the brake and then reapply it, then the brakes will work and the car will stop.
After this happened a few times, I started paying more careful attention. Whenever this happens, the ABS light is on. When I take my foot off of the brake, the ABS light goes off, and as I said, the brakes work normally.
Furthermore, this only happens if I have been sitting in my parked car for a few minutes with the engine off. It does not happen if I am getting into the car after being away for a few minutes, it only happens if I sit in the car for a few minutes and then turn the car back on to go somewhere.
This is, of course, not only irritating, but unsafe. It can be easy, if you are distracted, to have the car roll into someone or something if you are looking away, thinking that even though you put the car into gear, it will not go anywhere because it is not supposed to go anywhere, you have your foot on the brake!!!!
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I loaned my car to a friend for 2 days. While driving, she allowed it to run out of gas. The check engine light came on as soon as gas was put into the tank and has never gone off. I now need to get inspected, but afraid it will not pass. Someone said to put "Garanteed To Pass" in the gas tank. I have never had any problems with this car. I am the original owner, and I keep the oil changed and the filter clean. The car runs perfectly with 120K miles! What should I do?
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I've noticed that my left low beam headlight is considerably higher (aimed) than my right. I have concluded that my left one is high, as opposed to my right side being low. How to adjust only the vertical adjustment of the low beam headlights?
I have looked under the hood and saw some off-white plastic adjusters but I'm not sure. I don't' want to go twisting and turning things willy-nilly. Yes, I did scour the manual but no mention of adjustment. Yes, it tells how to remove the headlights (!) but not how to adjust.
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I have a 2012 limited last night while driving when I would turn my turn signal on the headlights would flash off and back on. I tried it a few more times and it did this quite a bit. I do have HID lights which I have had for about a year now but never had an issue before.
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Have an early 2004 US Phaeton with the smaller sound system. Everything works normally on the system, but when putting some commercial CD's into the player can yield some really nasty clipping (clicking on drum-beats or other high-frequency sound) on the loudest sections. The clipping only occurs on the loudest sections, irrespective of how high the volume control is, and it only occurs when listening to the CD.
This is either a defect in the digital/analog converter in my particular unit, or it's a design defect with the whole series. For techies, the highest bit (#15) in the D/A is feeding an overload signal into the analog path of both channels. This symptom also could occur on CD's you burn yourself if you tend to record your CD's really loud (right up to the limit of CD dynamic range).
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Noticed recently that when the headlights are set to "auto", with the DRL's on (during daylight hours), the headlights turn on at 100 mph.
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I cannot turn off the Xenon head lights in my early 04. I have the DRL option on. If you open the door, turn the key on for the radio, just want to jump start another car, etc. - always on.
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