I have a gasoline V-6 2004 Touareg. It hesitates a little when taking off lightly or heavily from a start. I took it in and just told dealer to fix it. They replaced the (electronic accelerator connection)?? It made it maybe 25% better. What to do. Mileage is at 60K. MPG is about 13.5 in town. 18 on highway.
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2000 Excursion V10. Love it. I bought it, though, with 170k miles on it and I'm going through it and fixing what needs to be fixed.
Looking at the tranny, I can't tell if it needs attention or not. It drives fine, takes off, cruises, all that. The only thing is, when driving I'm going along in 4th, if I let off the gas and then lightly get back on, it'll kind of hesitate. You hear the engine rev up for a split second, then the transmission grabs and the rpms drop back down to normal. Note, the rpms never rev more than 2 or 3 hundred rpm before it grabs again.
The fluid looks red and doesn't smell burned or anything. I just wanna know if I need to start saving my money for a rebuild or not. Also, when the time comes, need to know about Monster transmissions? I plan to buy a reman'd 4R100 from them when the time comes.
I noticed several times today, that the park assist gave false warnings when it was snowing lightly. the first time it happened, I stopped and got out to see if there was any snow accumulation on the bumper, and there was none.
Then later in the day, it happened several more times. the last time, only the two sets of red lights came on, without the yellow lights, and the beeper sounded briefly, and then it stopped again. And still there was not any snow on the bumper. Is it seeing snow flakes out there?
The headlights went out on the automatic "arrive home mode" more than the programmed 15 seconds. The interior overhead and foot lights took as much as 5 minutes to cease and desist.
V6, silver/gray
My 2007 with 58k on it started making the sound of a 'ratchet clankety clank' about at 56k while lightly braking with regen around 8-13 mph (slow and quiet enough to hear it best) and while turning slightly or more to the right. If I'm on a hill and can maintain the conditions, the sound will continue.
I've spent many a night searching here and elsewhere, learned a lot about strut and cv noises etc. At 57k I took it to a dealer who has a very nice service dept and they rode with me, agreed that they heard it, checked out the cv by hand (my first suspicion) and said all felt fine, that it was recorded at least (my concern being near 60k, std warranty).
I have a 2004 F150 4.6L... There is a slight hissing sound under the dash on the drivers side when you lightly press the accelerator and then stops. No matter what speed you are going as soon as you apply the accelerator it hisses then stops. There is also the same hissing , only louder when the engine is cut off. It hisses for about 3 seconds. What could be causing this. It has been idling rough since the hissing started. The check engine light is on and showing P0420 and P0430 codes . The cats were replaced with resonators so I believe that is the reason for the codes.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 F150 S Crew and have been maintaining it regularly. I started having a jerking while accelerating lightly or in between shifting then the overdrive light comes on and then flashes trans fault on dash. I took it to the local tranny shop who fixed the problem however about a year later it started doing it again. What the problem could be before I have to spend another bucks?
View 4 RepliesI own a Vw Phaeton 3.0 TDI 2004. A few days ago , everytime i take the ignition key of the car , the car 'dies' ( headlights , radio , doors , alarm... ) and it stops working for a couple of minutes. When i put the key again , the car starts working and everything works 100% but if i remove the key again , the car dies again. The car runs fine if i ride it a whole day , no problems at all. The following day , the car dies again. What's wrong with it?
View 24 RepliesI went to a couple custom exhaust shops to see about duals for my 04 f150. they gave me a price all were different ranging from 250 to 480 for the same set up. Cat back flow master 44 series dual out the back. I asked them if they can take the cats off and they said no and it would lose performance. is this true? i saw a couple videos on youtube.com and there was some with no cats. I kinda want to get true duals. So is it possible or not for this truck.
View 14 RepliesI have owned this explorer since new. It is an XLT 4 wheel drive always driven in "automatic" position. When I back up out of a parking place there is (sometimes) a noticeable momentary restriction on the right side as if I had run over something. There is no noise accompanying this. I have to be turning while backing up for this to occur. It sort of feels like the right front brake is somehow activated. Condition does not occur when backing straight. I have had the car to two different Ford dealers and they say they can find nothing wrong.
View 4 RepliesWe are traveling and the 05 gx isn't doing so well. It has a bad hesitation and speed and getting really bad mpg. Like 14 mpg on highway. Cel is on but the only code is o2 sensor. Bank 2 sensor 1. Would that really cause this big of an issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a noise problem in the front area. It sounds like a airplane taking off and landing. The sounds happen when the SUV is moving, even at rolling speed. It started with a very low noise which at first I thought might be a tire issue but about a month later it was very obvious that it isn't. (This is my wife's SUV, she just drive).
The SUV idles and drives fine still with front oem shocks. I have not inspect the breaks or rotors yet but they are breaking just fine with no squeak. It did get a aftermarket axle shaft on the right side. The noise is about even on both side.
Well I figured out a way to do fluid change without taking down the pan... just use a pump and suction out and then refill with pumper...
View 6 RepliesOur 2004 LeSabre has the following symptoms - there's a clicking that occurs whenever the car is in motion, the car occasionally hesitates/bucks when shifting between gears (but not always), the radio sometimes does not go off when the keys are taken out of the ignition, we're losing about a quart of oil about every 2500 miles but there is no sign of a leak on the ground, we also seem to have reduced mileage (using more gas).
In this corner, Mechanic 1 (high price) - replace front lower control arms, sway bar, and bushing, front end alignment, throttle body gasket and EGR tube, oil pan gasket replacement, ignition switch replacement, brake fluid and coolant flush. $1900
In the other corner, Mechanic 2 (low price) thinks it's just the spark plugs and wires that need to be replaced, the wires, replace air and fuel filter, and PCV valve - $450
We had the oil changed about 2500 miles ago, replaced the air filter then. The oil change place suggested a coolant and brake fluid flush. I've used mechanic 1 in the past and they have replaced my head gaskets a couple of times and I suspect they are ripping me off.
I've been getting some "heat shield like" sounding rattle from the underside of the car when taking off. It seems to be coming from under the engine area, I don't think it's the heat shield over the cat since I've had that before and that was the first thing I checked, it's all tight. Is there another shield under the engine that can cause this?
View 3 RepliesI have 2005 Prius, 53K miles on it. Bought it as used car few months ago. It has been running great since then.
Since last few weeks I have been hearing a soft beep every time I take foot off the brake. Today I had my windows down while driving and I realized that the soft beep is actually a loud noise like squeak or beep. I can hear a noise every time I take foot off the brake (NOT when putting foot on the brake).
Anyone can standing near the car or other car drivers at red-light can hear the sound too.. This happens when- the Car is in D, I take foot off the accelerator and press the brake (to slow down or complete stop) then take foot off the brake.
I have a 2004 auto honda accord 4cyl. When I turn the key to turnon my car it takes a couple of seconds longer than it use to, to turn on. Sometimes it doesn't start at all,until I stop and pump the gas brake. This seems to do the trick, the two or three times this happened. My guess is that the gas isn't getting through as it should.
View 7 Replies5.4L 3v engine: The PCV is located in the drivers side valve cover. Tried to pull it out with no success and came to the conclusion that maybe it's threaded and a nut locks it in from the underside of the valve cover. Can this thing be replaced without taking off the valve cover?
View 4 RepliesMy Car when it comes to a traffic light, wants to lurch just a bit, as I sit waiting for the light to change, I don't know whether it will stall, and also the RPM wants to rev on its own a little when I first get into the car to start it, and also while I am waiting at stoplights.
View 1 RepliesLooking at a truck at a dealership. 04 F150 Lariat 5.4 3v? 2wd SuperCrew 148k miles. Bone stock besides the bedliner.
Truck is pretty nice besides these 4 things. Kind of a shudder when taking off from a stop or a very slow speed. Adjustable pedals don't work.
New brakes, but possibly the rears are dragging a bit. Was able to turn them in neutral and the rear on jacks. Extra, guessing because of the newer looking battery, some systems lack data from the OBD2
I'm mainly concerned about the shudder from a complete stop/1-2mph. At the dealer, to leave the lot, the driveway was elevated. I think it showed very well climbing that hill. As it was noticed and played with the gas a bit. Otherwise, you stomp the gas, it may shudder for a second or two, (3-5 times?) once it hits about 3000 rpm in 1st, its fine. Only ever seemed to do it in 1st and never any other gear, never on any gear changes.
We lifted the rear end up on a jack and fiddled around. Put it in neutral and spun the wheels, tried to mess with the drive shaft... According to dad, who was looking at it with me said it was fine and that it's normal to have a little bit of slop, but I didn't notice any real slop myself, tried to push on the driveshaft on the transmission side and I think it may have moved a bit but it didn't feel loose or clang or anything. Although I didn't get to push on it too hard because he was rotating the driveshaft at the time.
I assume new fluids in engine and trans. My dad said something about old oil marks on the transmission pan area or something. Both to the fill line.
One thing that I wonder about is how long this truck has been sitting. I wonder about the differential clutches. I'm not that sure what it really has for the rear end. But google had mention of clutch packs in the rear. I wonder if because it's been sitting that the oil has settled out of the clutches or something. There was a mess of silicon on the rear diff cap area. Couldn't tell if it was new or not. I think we put 10-20 miles on it at least and only looked under it for maybe a half hour... Still did the clunk/shudder at a start from a stop, when we returned it.
So, what could be causing this clunk/chatter when talking off from a stop/1-2mph roll?
Axle wrap?
Differential Clutches?
Differential?
Driveshaft?
Transmission?
My son in law's 2004 F150 had been having a random hesitation and dieing on light acceleration. Now it is every time he drives it.Here is the scenario. After taking off from a stop, with light acceleration, when speed reaches 22 mph in drive, it is like you turn the key off,,,except all the gauges still work,radio air all electrical seems to stay on,BUT the indication lights on the dash and the small red anti theft dash light for the security function comes on. If you try to continue accelerating, the truck will die, but if you let off on the gas and then continue to accelerate all is well.
I tried starting off in 2nd thinking it is a transmission problem same scenario except truck did get up to 29mph before experiencing the dieing issue. Tried starting off with Overdrive disengaged, same problem. The truck is throwing no DTC codes and Ford says unless it throws a code, they can't work on it. Truck runs great at highway speeds . My son in law says that if the truck does die,(by trying to force acceleration) he has to stop, and put the truck in neutral or park, and then it will restart. I have checked all connections at the transmission, rear end and all sensors/controls, but no solution. We are getting desperate and don' t know what else to check. It has the 5.4 engine.