Touareg :: 2004 - Cannot Get The Car Into Neutral To Get It Towed
Aug 2, 2009
My '04 T-Reg will not start/crank. As a result, I cannot get the car into neutral to get it towed. I researched my problem and it could be anything from a new KESSY Module needed to a Steering Column. How do I get the car into neutral so it does not have to be dragged onto the flatbed? I read another thread on this and one thought was there was a white spring loaded switch under the trim near the gear selector. I got the trim off but cannot find the switch or get this damn truck into neutral.
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Recently noticed the idle seems rough in Neutral and in Drive when stopped. When the roughness is subtle, that RPM gauge doesn't move and at other times with more pronounced surges the RPM gauge bounces around. Not sure if it is related but we just got back from a couples days in Tahoe. Tried reconnecting the gas cap with no change.
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I have a 1997 GMC Safari van with 175,000 miles on it. One month ago it wouldn't start. It would crank and crank but just not fire. When I turn the key I can hear the fuel pump start. I have other transportation available, so I just tried it a couple of times a day with the same result. Some history: about 5 months ago I had the fuel pump replaced. Finally I gave up and had it towed to the shop that had replaced the fuel pump. After it was unloaded from the flatbed, the mechanic tried to start it and it started normally. Since it started, I had an oil change done and had them check all the connections. Afterwards it started normally. I drove it for a few days with no problem and then one morning the same problem- cranking but not starting. Being stubborn, and with tight finances, I tried to start it every day for a week. Same symptoms. Finally today I had it towed to a different mechanic recommended by a friend. Of course, when it was unloaded from the flatbed it started right up. Any theories?
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I've had the pleasure of getting towed out of my own apartment complex earlier this morning. Parking placard fell off dashboard so it was not visible.
Regardless, I go to pick up my car from the lot. I'm cranking my steering wheel right and before I could even fully pull out of the stall, I hear and feel rubbing coming from the front left fender. I get the same symptoms in the right fender when I crank the wheel fully to the left.
This is the FIRST time I've experienced rubbing. Keep in mind that I'm sitting on h&r sport springs, oems wheels and p zero tires. I profoundly let the manager know my issue and he told me they'll have their mechanic take a look. They obviously took the position of no fault on their end.
I'm not mechanically inclined but I'm wondering if improper or misguided towing instructions could be the culprit here.
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89 toyota truck 4x4... A few weeks ago I had my truck in 4wd and was reversing, I stopped and tried to go into first gear. I found that the shifter would not engage, I can move the shifter around 360 degrees with nothing catching. I checked under the shifter boot and thought it may be the bushing that is shot. To feel safer anyway I decided to have a friend tow me to pavement and have AAA tow me into town, as I live 7 miles down a curvy mountain road off grid. As i was being towed out today the truck started spewing black smoke from about where the shifter is underneath the truck. Freaking out, we stopped the tow and i coasted back down the hill into the driveway.
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When the car is completely dead is there anyway to get it in Neutral?
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I have a '94 E4OD trans in my '53 F100. It uses an analog MLPS for the gear selection indicator, Neutral Safety Switch, and Backup light.
My MLPS Neutral Safety Switch shows continuity in Neutral, but not in Park, I need to be able to energize the starter solenoid in both Park & Neutral.
Shouldn't the MLPS show continuity in both Park & Neutral?
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I just received a phone call from my wife stating her prius automatically goes to neutral.
She mentioned there were not any odd noises. Just that once in drive it automatically goes to neutral.
The car is now parked in a lot until I go and take a look.
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I wonder what's the difference between Stealth (no arrow on display at all) and Neutral Gear? The reason I ask is, Neutral Gear is much easier to maintain than Stealth.
Also, when I break moderately hard, it seems like the CVT gear is put to low, so for every yard I travel, more rotation on charging motor. Since Toyota did a great job on transition between regeneration and brake pads, I can't tell when brake pads start to work. Any indications?
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After getting on the highway, the red triangle of death, the amber ABS and the VSC lights came on, and little exclamation point came on on millage/audio screen, while battery power went down from high blue to one blue bar. Pulled car over to parking lot, and put in park. After putting it in park, the car would not go out of neutral, but the power still worked.
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We love our 04 Prius (190K, still original brakes, etc.). Today we encountered a strange problem. My wife was driving and pulled into a parking lot. She could not turn the car off , remove the box key, or shift out of neutral. No warning lights.
After about 10 min. the car would drive again. We've now cycled about 5 times (i.e. driven somewhere) and it seems OK. We replaced the 12V battery a couple of years ago and haven't seen any problems in that area.
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I just bought a 2006 Prius about a month ago (57K). I love the car and have been educating myself on all things Prius, This car has also made me change my driving style quite a bit. I am getting around 50 MPG (combined) and very happy about it.
I have been using some of the hypermiling techniques to get the mileage, one of the things I do is to put the car in Neutral (to emulate the Glide portion of the Pulse and Glide) especially when coming down a gradient. I was bit concerned about using the Neutral gear and called Toyota Corporation to get a clarification, The answer I got from Toyota was - there is no technical issue, however they do not recommend this be done for safety reasons.
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The 4 wheel stick shift is stuck between H and L and would not engage either .. what can be done..
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I'm very puzzled by how prius (2008) decides whether to use gas when I coast with neutral (I only do that if there is a long stretch of the road that is going down the hill). Same roads, same driving style, but sometimes, the gas usage goes to 0 but sometime it continue to use gas. Sometimes if you just let it in the gear a little longer or just press the gas pedal, it would go 0 after switching to neutral. There is no consistency that I can come up with the best method to get it to not to use gas and just slide using the gravity and momentum.
I can understand if it has to fill up the battery but when it uses gas at neutral, no transfer of energy among all parts. The diagram (wheel, engines, battery) shows standstill but it still uses gas. I don't have air on and turn the fan to the lowest and it doesn't make any difference.
A few conclusions I had:
It will always use a little gas at highway speed (55 to 70mph).
It appears to use gas at higher humidity (not sure but the MPG is higher when it's humid).
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I have a Gen II 2009 Prius with 31K miles on it. I love my Prius and until now had no issues with it. Last Saturday when I was driving on the highway, the following lights came on the dashboard.
1) Master Caution Light
2) VSC
3) ((!)) 'electronic brake malfunction'
4) Check engine light
The car seemed to be handling fine, and I kept on driving. However, after a few miles the car would go in neutral, I would need to stop before it will let me drive. I got to where I needed to go and then had the car towed to the dealer service shop.
The dealer came back and said that the water pump for the inverter needed changing (it was under warranty) plus the 12V utility battery also needed changing. They saw the DTS codes when the connected their computer to the car. I have my car back and other than the price of the battery had a really good experience with the dealer service center. They were prompt and efficient. Also it seems to me that car is driving more in the electric mode with the engine coming on less. Just my impression.
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My fiancee has a 2005 base model and is out shopping today. She just called me and said that she is stuck in a parking lot.
She told me on the way off the highway today the "big and little" triangles came on, but the car drove fine. When she got back to her car to leave, the car would turn on presumably, but all the warning lights were on. She then said that the car would not go into drive and only into neutral.
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I've searched & still haven't resolved my problem.
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I've got a 2004 1.8t GLI. I recently developed a problem where the car will idle very poorly at random times, where it goes down to 500, jumps up to a 1000, and continues that and eventually levels out. Also, occasionally while I am driving and put it in neutral to coast, the engine will die. This has also happened at stop signs/red lights. I had it scanned via VCDS, and the only two codes that popped up were running lean, and an n249 code. I already changed the MAF out, changed the alternator. Where to go next.
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2008 prius won't stay in gear, goes to neutral when hot...
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A little back story my hybrid battery went out about 4 months ago ago and I've been saving money to get it fixed. I've been trying to remember to start it and get it moving every so often. Well I guess I didn't do it enough because go to drive the Prius yesterday to get it started and moved since it's been awhile and the main battery is dead. The way the Prius is parked I can't even get to it to jump it. I'm wondering is there a way to put it in neutral with a dead battery? Or is there a way to charge the battery, since it's actually inside the car? And I'm assuming since the 12V is drained, I'll have to replace that as well correct?
I'm about over this car, while it done great the first 7 years I had it, past two have been a royal pain. Ready to go back to a normal engine and car.
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I'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
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