Touareg :: 2004 - Burns Too Much Oil - Normal?
Mar 12, 2005
I was very surprised to find that after having only gone 3k miles after my last oil change (at 20k) my 2004 V6 Toureg burned a half-quart of oil. Asked my dealerships about this and was told this is normal and VW allows a quart of oil per 1k miles before they replace the motor. The service rep even said that I should have my oil changed every 5k miles even though the manual says 10k. This sounds like BS to be because I would drive my 2.8 VR6 8k between oil changes and it would only be a half-quart low. I used Mobil 1 synthetic of course. Has V6 burns a lot of oil?
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By way of brief background, I have a 2004 Touareg with 180,000 miles. I recently noticed that the front left air suspension was sitting lower than normal after the truck had been sitting. I discovered that the shock was leaking air and in the subsequent days began getting "Running Gear Workshop" warnings on the MFI. I got both the orange ones and a red one that instructs you to stop immediately. It reset after parking, and restarting. In summary, I knew I had a problem.
Today, I stopped at the dealer and they confirmed that the fitting at the top of the air shock was in deed leaking. Attached is a photograph showing the fitting. It is important that you inspect these fittings ASAP if you have air suspension. There is a TSB that references corrosion and possible failure. See TSB 43 07 01
Initially I was told that the entire air shock would have to be replaced but after doing research and with the assistance of Spockcat, I discovered that the fitting can be replaced assuming the female portion of the connection is not corroded. Replacing the entire air shock assembly is expensive. Apparently, there have been some instances where the fitting has failed during driving and bad things happen.
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If you put your ear to the steering wheel, does everyone's MFI make a buzzing noise? Kinda like a computer screen noise. Just seems a bit excessive to me, but maybe that is just how they are.
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Is it normal for the radio to come on when I shift into reverse? It then goes back off when shifted to any other gear...2008 V8 T2
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Over the past few weeks we have not driven the Touareg as much and noticed something new. On cold start, after sitting for 1-2 days the transmission seems to slip when going from Park to reverse. Once in reverse, I apply throttle, the tack goes up, but the Treg does not move . It takes 2-5 seconds for it to go, then it smoothly starts to pull, slow at first and then catches up. Once I am backed out of the garage (25-30 FT), I shift to drive and there is no more slipping until the next cold start.
I called the dealership and they told me this was normal. I took it in for an overnight stay so they can experience it in the morning after sitting overnight. I also asked that the Transmission fluid be checked since the engine was in and out twice and it had a leaky seal. We have put in the neighborhood of 70-80K miles on the 4 Touaregs we have owned and I don't ever remember this symptom or problem.
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When I turn the dial on my sunroof control just a click or two, the roof opens to a little more than half open. Basically, the roof has maybe 3 positions between 1/2 and all the way open despite the multitude of click positions on the dial. It's nowhere near precise. I'd like to be able to open it just a little sometimes (not tilt, open).
Is this just the way it is or will my VW dealer be able to adjust something?
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Is it recommended to completely stop the Touareg before shifing from the Sport mode to the Normal driving mode?
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It only burns oil when the ambient temp is above freezing. Why would this be?
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I recently had the catalytic converter replaced on my 1999 Toyota Corolla and the gas mileage dropped from about 28 mpg to 21 mpg.
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I have a 2001 Golf with a 2.0L motor. I've had this issue for a while now; the motor burns oil at an unreasonable rate - around a quart every 1200 miles. If I'm at a long traffic light and idling, a lot of white smoke will come out the back when I start moving. I don't notice smoke any other time. Also, the gas mileage is reduced by about 75 miles per tank when it's cold outside.
I have recently replaced:
temperature sensor
thermostat
plugs & wires
cleaned mass airflow sensor
The last mechanic I went to, who I will no longer be using, as he is incompetent, thought the cause for the lost cold weather mileage and burning oil is the PCV valve. A friend thought it would be a worn head gasket. I'm having trouble finding any info on PCV valves for this motor.
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We recently purchased a 1991 Minnie Winnie (Winnebago) which rests on a 1990 Ford E350 chassis. It only has 58k miles. While driving on the freeway or highway, the Overdrive starts to go in and out; downshifting and upshifting willy nilly. It has a manual button for turning off the Overdrive and when I do this, it stops jerking and drives smooth. But, of course, this effects the gas mileage significantly. I took the Minnie to a garage recommended by the company I purchased the Minnie from. They replaced the manual Overdrive switch and replaced the transmission with a rebuilt Ford transmission.
We got it back and it was okay for one trip but by the second trip, it was doing the same thing again. I took it back to the garage and since it was under warranty, they put in a new rebuilt transmission, another new Overdrive switch, a new fuel sensor and checked the wiring but it still had the same problem. So they sent the onboard computer board to Ford who rebuilt it. The guys at the garage thought for sure this would resolve the problem. It didn't. They have exhausted their ideas as to what is causing this problem. We love the Minnie Winnie and other than this problem it is in beautiful condition.
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1997 Rav4 with 185k miles burns some oil. I replaced the PCV valve thinking that may be the issue. That seemed to stop the visible smoke at a cold startup but alas, the problem still persists. We bought the car for a song at 180k so I don't feel I'm out much. The previous owner took incredible care of the car so it is solid in most areas.
I did learn the previous owner followed a dealer recommend oil change interval and changed the filter with every other oil change so this may explain some things.
My real question, if the engine does need a refresh, what is the best option? I've not at all afraid of tackling a major overhaul myself and, in the past, have had pretty good luck with aftermarket rebuilt short blocks. But that was years ago. The dealer cost for a crate motor is outrageous and not justified for a '97 anyway. So at this point, I'm just looking for some advice from others who may have been down this road. Again, the rest of the car is solid and we don't have much money in it at this point so would like to keep it as our 'second' car for awhile.
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When I took my new used car to the mechanic, complaining how there must be an oil leak cause well by now 9 bottles of oil in 7 weeks time have been put in, the mechanic told me the engine is burning the oil too fast. He said something about the piston, but I got all confused. He also said that the only way to fix this is to replace the engine, but he recommended not to cause it would cost more than the car is worth. This is a 2000 Toyota Corolla. Why this is happening and what i should do about it.
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2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
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Need to know if there is a kit available to fix cigarette burns in seat upholstery? I bought a 99 f150 to use for parts on my 2000 f150 and I want to use the drivers side seat. The previous owner smoked and there are a few little burns in the seat. Other than getting the smoke stink out, and the little holes. the seat is in great condition. The lumbar support is broke in my 2000s seat, and the seat cover is torn. that's the reason I want the "smokey" seat.
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This F250 has 60130 miles on it. A week ago the transmission would not engage and we had to have it towed to the dealership, so we called roadside assistance. Finally getting the report from the dealership we are verbally told that the transmission pump failed and the clutches have burnt.
The work is submitted for warranty. Last night we get a phone call that they are denying the warranty because the truck has been neglected/abused. So I asked for the service paperwork. The service paperwork states, SEALS FAILED ALLOWING CLUTCHES TO FAIL, NEEDS CLUTCHES, SEALS, AND PUMP TO REPLACE.
When I call to get clarity on the definition of neglect and the justification, I am told the inspector was shown burnt clutches and a muddy truck. When I ask about the pump and seals, I am told the inspector was never shown 1 failed seal, and the pump was fully assembled and did not appear defective.
So I call the dealership back and ask for an explanation and they tell me they will research it and get back to me. When they call me back their story is not just that the clutches failed, nothing else and that they are just replacing the pump and seals because it is recommended. The notes given by the technician to the warranty folks now state that the clutches burnt and the truck was muddy so he knows we abused it.
It would slip and then knock into gear. Transmission was service 5000 miles ago by dealer, we were told it was good, in good working order, fluid looked great, no issues.
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I took my relatively well maintained '98 Camry to Texaco Xpress Lube and they changed my oil and air filter. I then embarked on a 400mile trip to Miami. The next morning when I went to start the car, I fogged the entire neighborhood with a thick low-lying white vapor/smoke. It was ridiculous. So, I opened the hood and noticed my coolant reservoir was nearly empty and my oil dipstick was bone dry. Thinking this was awfully strange, I went to inspect the air filter and noticed that they installed a filter that was short by about 1.5" in one dimension and I could see sand, leaves, and twigs in the bottom of the air box. The shop basically put a square filter in a rectangular air box. After some preliminary research, I've concluded that my engine is now completely ruined because of this. From what I gather, the sand in the airbox enterred the combustion chamber and proceeded to grind the internal components to smithereens. Is this a reasonable conclusion considering my engine has never had these problems before. Also, how would I even start to get some rectification?
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My ScanGauge II is saying my Optima Yellow Top while in READY mode cruising down the highway is 13.4V. When I came to a stop and put the vehicle in park, it switched to 14.0V. Out of curiosity I put it in drive and it went back down to 13.4V.
Yesterday while driving on the highway for about 30 minutes it read 14V the entire trip. What's going on? Normal?
Yesterday I also had my battery tested directly on the battery at Advance Auto Parts with a computer battery tester certified for AGM batteries. It tested at 12.75V exactly, which is normal.
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I have a 2004 VW Jetta 1.8T , what the normal coolant temperature should be?
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Is it normal for the engine to turn on for about a minute when you first start it? Mine always does it, seems normal, but just wanted to check and also find out why. I assume it has to power a couple electrical things in the car?
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It has been so effective to add diesel injector cleaner to my 2004 Honda (all of 62,000 miles on it), that it is scaring me. Am I damaging anything? I add about an ounce/gallon every once in a while. Mileage drops back in between.
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