its the auto with triptronic with flappy paddles, when driving in auto its perfect but when using triptronic from 4th to 5th there a terrible judder, it gets worse the faster i go
View 5 RepliesI have a 2.2 CRDI Manual - new 2010 model - bought from new approx 16 months ago. Live in UK. Quite a few problems, which is a shame as I love the car. Tonight's question is about the clutch. Became increasingly difficult/impossible to get into 1st when cold, and wasn't clearing so car would slightly jolt forwards. Dealer had it in and replaced ?Slave cylinder. No better. Went in yet again for a week. This time ?replaced Clutch ?wheel (staff not that communicative, or apologetic, and ps had to also replace both front drive shafts too as clicking ++). Now at least the car is easier to get into gear, but pedal rather sponge like and significant "judder" when setting off in 1st at lowish revs, and worse when reverses. Surely this can't be normal - it's a new car after all. Back to the dealer later in the week, but what do I do if I become unhappy with the dealer?
View 4 RepliesI have been trying to chase down a whirling noise that follows vehicle speed since I bought the truck in my sig in Oct. The noise happens whether or not the hubs are free or locked so I don't think it is the front needle bearings. I just changed the transfer case fluid over to Mobile 1 Syn. and there was no change in the noise. I also changed the front pads, rotors, slide pins and calipers a few weeks ago and that didn't have an effect on the noise either. Today I took the truck for a ride and I'm not sure but it seems almost like the noise is a bit louder! And I noticed that if I hit the brakes firmly, harder than a normal stop the noise gets significantly quieter and if I release them again the noise goes right back to normal. This has got me stumped...
Along with this noise, I have a vibration on the freeway that gets worse around 55 and lets off around 61. Its worse at some speeds and better at others. Thinking the two were related I pulled the rear drive shaft and checked the u-joints and the carrier bearing for play. The carrier bearing doesn't have any real play but there is quite a bit of slop, ability to turn back and forth, where the driveshaft comes out of the transfer case. All but one of the u-joint cups were fine. The bad one isn't even too bad just the rubber seal around it is a little off, there is still grease in it and the needle bearings seem fine.
After several checks and resets , my Touareg clocks are fast by about 2 min/week. No other electrical problems. Not a known problem with my dealer. Clocks aren't hi-tech ... MFI may have clock module- seems overkill to change it.
View 24 RepliesMy car just started knocking terribly--making a really loud noise at all speed and all gears. (Not when idling, though.) It is a 2000 Honda Accord. Both the oil and the oil filter were changed about 2000 miles ago, so the oil should be good. What might be causing this?
View 17 RepliesI have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma 4X4 pickup that is running terrible at any RPM under 1800. It is also bad under acceleration at any RPM, or when the a/c is on. The truck is showing no problem codes at all. I have been throwing parts at it with no success. I have replaced in order - the air cleaner, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, and even the timing belt.
View 2 Replies1998 Ford Escort SE ... On idle ( at a red light or in park while on) it shakes terribly. When I shift into N it will lessen for 3-10 seconds, but then it will cycle back to the vibrating. The spark plugs were replaced about 4 months ago and got a brand new transmission 5 years ago this coming summer. It came into the family in '00 and I got it when I turned 16. The vibration started about 2 years ago and at first I was told "little car has shaky engine". When it got worse I was told it was the motor mounts, which I replaced a year ago. When they were first put in the car ran smooth as ever.
My mother turned on the AC while I was taking her for a test ride that same day and it started back shaking. They said the motor mounts were perfectly in place, and that it was a broken fan blade. My husband and I just don't see a fan blade causing that much shaking. I can hear the car violently vibrating when I park and take pizza to someone's door. Also a more minor problem, ever since we put new brakes on, my brake light comes on too easy. The weight of the peddle will turn the light on, and I have to keep using my foot to pull it up after each time I touch it, and sometimes when I'm driving.
I used a OBD scan tool and all it told me was my idle air control system rpm is lower than expected and my evaporative system has a high purge flow. What this means, can I fix it or do I have to send it to a shop. Also when idling the short term fuel trim 1 is at -3% whatever that means.
View 16 RepliesI have had my 20th for about a month now and I feel like first gear is so slow. I usually shift around 3,000 rpms. I was wondering if 1st if just slow in these cars or if there's something wrong?
View 1 RepliesMy roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
View 7 RepliesI've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
I am a new 2016 GTI 6 MT S model owner.
I have been driving manual cars for more than 10 years. In manual cars, the engine rev generally drops slightly at engagement point, but in the GTI I noticed that the engine maintains rather slightly increases the rev automatically while engaging clutch in 1st or reverse if the gas pedal is not pressed. It is also very audible as the engine sound changes (increases).
Also I have noticed significant clutch engagement judder if I take off by pushing the gas.
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi Mirage. I've been having issues with judder. I first mentioned it to a mechanic late last spring, but they said the rotors and pads were fine, so I let it be, and the judder got gradually worse, until I brought it in again a couple weeks ago and got new front rotors (the rotors were warped at that point, and barely within spec). But as I left the mechanic's, I realized that the judder had not gone away, it had just changed, and become more pronounced. (Yes, I should have gone right back in to the mechanic, but I was peeved that the problem was still there, and sleep deprived from working 3rd shift.)
The judder is most noticeable when I am stopping in town. The car behaves as if I'm stomping on the brake repeatedly; the brakes are grabbing and releasing, grabbing and releasing. Until the past week, this has meant that my head bobs front and back a bit as I stop. In the past week though, it feels like there is a tiny bit of side-to-side movement developing, too. The steering wheel does not shake, and I can't feel anything unusual in the pedal.(Also, if it matters, the tires were rotated about a week before the rotors were replaced.)
What could the issue be here? Should I take it back to the shop and ask them to undo and redo the lug nuts by hand, since I've read that overtightening, or tightening in the wrong order, could be an issue? Should I ask them if they test run-out when they install rotors? Should I go to a different mechanic? The mechanic I went to is a local large operation with a decent reputation, but... I've gotten some conflicting information from them, depending on who I talk to. Also, should the pads have been replaced along with the rotors? They're at around 70%.
Tiguan 2.0 TSI 2009... Lately I am experiencing occasional engine vibrations, especially once the engine is cold, but do come even after engine has warmed up. Sometime even at highway speed, i could feel the vibration, but no effect on engine pull or acceleration. There is no noticeable engine misfiring. On few occasions, one starting, the engine does not pick the rpm and rattles with EPS, Oil and CHG light remaining on. A little press on the accelerator and engine gets to normal idle. The diagnostic computer does not show any fault. The local VW dealer after an expensive trouble shooting has 'diagnosed' POSSIBLE low fuel pump pressure, faulty ignition coils and ignition leads, and a heavy bill for replacements.
View 8 RepliesOccasionally, when braking at lower speeds (i.e. coming to junction) I get feedback through the pedal almost as if the ABS has kicked in....braking is not very effective when it happens. I can also hear a pump type noise going. If I lift my foot and re-apply it clears and normal braking returns. In fact, sometimes I can hear the pump noise going even before I brake....always at low speed (sub 15-20 mph) doesn't happen when driving at higher speeds.
View 17 RepliesI have a santa fe 2002 diesel the abs lights stop on all the time the brake pedal has a bad judder on it when braking. I have taken the fuses out and it will still judder. The only thing that is when i disconnect each sensor the red brake light stops on but not with the osf front sensor. All the rings look ok but when i had a problem with 1 of them the abs light would go out then return on...
View 1 RepliesCar :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
I have a 97 F150XL 4x4 a few days ago i was driving and i started to lose power i had to take it out of overdrive just to maintain 60mph by the end of the day it took a good 45 seconds to a full minute to get up to 10 mph. I have been told it is the catalytic converter, anything that would cause this it has a lope when stopped at a light but is fine when in park it acts like its flooding when I take off from a stop but the faster I go after taking off the flooding feel goes away and just seems like a lack of power. That morning i put on a EGR vacuum solenoid and an o2 sensor...
View 14 RepliesWhen stationary the vehicle shudders randomly as if it is cold. When moving it seems to judder and almost burst with power then lose power again, over 3000 rpm the problem becomes less of an issue but the vehicle does occasionally judder still as if the tyres have low pressure - which they don't.
At first I thought the oil may need filling up but after this the problem still persisted. I have also checked all spark plugs and no wires or tubes appear to have come loose. I read on anpther forum that the clutch have have been soaked? - If a new clutch is needed, how much that would cost?
My steering wheel, when pulling away or towards me (reach) is juddery/squeaky. I think its the 'rubber bead/dust seal' under the instrument binnacle rubbing on the plastic steering column shroud as it moves in and out. It works and doesn't sound slow and the motor does not sound under strain, its just noisy as the shroud does not run smoothly against the 'rubber bead'.
Up and down (rake) is quiet.
To lubricate the plastic is silicone lubrication spray the way to go? Or is there another lubricant and/or quick & easy way to get it to not squeak.
Its not a big deal, but it would be nice to have it working properly when I get in and out.
Replaced original clutch on Subaru Forester at approx. 130,000 miles because of slipping. Drove car for a few days and clutch would judder once warmed-up when trying to engage 1st gear. Took car back to repair shop, they said pressure plate was defective/set too stiff and replaced that. Whole car now shudders when trying to engage in 1st gear once the car has warmed-up and particularly on (even a slight) hill. What's not working correctly? Seen some discussion on throw-out bearings, master/slave cylinders and oil on clutch. Unsure.
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