Touareg :: 2001 - Getting Consistent P0305 And P0307 Misfire Codes?
Oct 15, 2013
I'm getting consistent P0305 and P0307 misfire codes when my 4.2L engine is revved past 5,000 RPM. Have a done a bunch of diagnostics including a new timing belt to no avail.
Specifics:
I have 2001 Audi A6 with a 4.2L 40V engine (yes, I know it isn't a Touareg but the motor is the same!). Timing belt replaced about 1.5 years ago and it runs great. However, I'm getting some codes. 1) At high RPM (over 5,000 rpm) under load, I consistently get a P0300, P0305 and a P0307. Happens like clockwork. As soon as I hit 5,000 rpm, those three codes post. 2) After driving around for a bit, I get a P0340 (Cam position Sensor). Things I have done, all with no change: 1) Checked for Vacuum Leaks 2) Replaced all the spark plugs 3) Moved all the coil packs from one side to the other 4) Replaced the Cam position Sensors 5) Moved all the injectors from one side to the other 6) Inspected (as best I could) the variable cam timing system under the valve covers. Brown chain guides looked OK.
Finally, I changed the timing belt to no avail. When I disassembled, I found the motor was perfectly in time. My marks from the first change ~18 months ago were still in place and everything lined up. I was able to install the crankshaft lock and cam locking bar with the timing belt in place (it wasn't even off a fraction, the locking bar slid right in). I installed a new belt and all the rollers + tensioner. Didn't put in a new water pump but changed all the other pieces. The new install went great and I was able to get almost exactly the 5mm gap on the tensioner after spinning the motor a few times that Bentley talks about. Put it back together and took it for a spin. DARN!@ The same codes post at exactly 5,000 RPM: P0300, P0305, P0307.
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So i got two codes.... P0300 and P0305. I am thinking its the coilpacks because i changed the spark plugs a few months ago. Cleared it last week and came back today. What else could it be? And is it ok to just change one coil pack or do i have to do all of them? The recall was done in 2007.
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So on Christmas day I turned on my truck and all was well. I had family over and we were going up to my range to do some Christmas day target shooting. I let it warm up for about 20 minutes we then loaded up and headed out.
When I locked the hubs I soon found out my 4WD was not working? Due to the cold? It worked fine last time out and now not at all. I decided to forge ahead in 2WD, Sure enough we got stuck in deep snow. I had to gun the engine off and on to get out and as soon as I broke free (CHECK ENGINE) appeared for the first time ever. Worst Christmas ever!
The truck is running fine, full power and no irregular noise from the engine. So I ran the test and P0303, P0307 misfires on cylinder 3 and 7 appeared. This whole post is about me doing a full tune up this spring the truck is parked since Christmas and will stay parked until I do a full tune up.
New Plugs.
New Wires.
New Coils.
New oil filter and oil. Changed last year with less than 2000 miles but changing anyways.
Flush radiator and add new radiator fluid.
Clean air filter (Aftermarket, It is washable).
Is there anything I'm missing? Also, any tips on figuring out the 4WD issue?
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I'm having an issue with my 2003 Silverado, current engine is LS1 from a WS6 Trans Am, mostly stock, stainless headers, no cats, stall converter. I replaced fuel pump a few weeks ago and last week i took a road trip and when I hit the interstate the CEL started flashing. I pulled over and used my scanner and saw that it was P0307. I cleared code and continued on. The only noticeable problem was that it was not shifting into overdrive. After a while the light quit flashing and eventually it shifted into OD.
This happened several more times on a 750 mile trip. I had a mechanic friend check it over and he couldn't find anything, wasn't throwing codes at that time. He check sparked plug, swapped the coil to #5 and still had the issue. Didn't get a chance to check the fuel injector. The trip home it did the same thing. IF it were indeed a bad injector, wouldn't the problem be ongoing instead of coming and going? Took to local chevy dealer thinking they could diagnose it but since it didn't throw a code they couldn't find anything.
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I have a 2001 King Ranch F150, which has a 2004 Lincoln Navigator 5.4 DOHC Intech engine installed. The engine was installed in 2005 and had less that 100 miles on it. The engine now has approximately 95000 miles and I have recently got the P0307 fault-miss fire on # 7 cylinder. I have installed a new spark plug, COP, and fuel injector. The fault has returned. Any clues to the cause of my problem?
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I have a 2001 King Ranch F150, which has a 2004 Lincoln Navigator 5.4 DOHC Intech engine installed. The engine was installed in 2005 and had less that 100 miles on it. The engine now has approximately 95000 miles and I have recently gotten a P0307 fault-miss fire on # 7 cylinder. I have installed a new spark plug, COP, and fuel injector. The fault has returned. What is the cause of my problem?
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96 Chevy express 1500 V8-305. Have a P0305 code...Misfire on 5. Let me tell you everything I have done so nobody wastes their time.
I have, replaced the entire ignition system, "EVERYTHING" including a new distributor...Not the problem... I did a compression test...Not the problem...injector cleaning...not the problem.
When I moved the wire harness that goes into the "spyder" fuel injector system the engine smoothed out. I untaped the harness from around the plug and applied pressure to each wire the engine smoothed out. The back row 2nd pink wire seems to cause the most reaction.
My question is...Is it the wire harness or is it the injector system not reading plug? or could it be a combination of the 2? If I replace the wire harness might I still have to replace the injector system?
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I am having the above codes come up P0316 and PO305. The car is running rough...just started tonight. The check engine light started flashing but it's on continuously. Of course when I had the codes read at a Firestone they gave absolutely no support as to what it could be.
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I had a 05 f350 5.4 3v come into my shop with a CEL. Did the usual it had a p0307. So I did the usual again changed plug and coil plug cam out no prob they were done 15k ago. Test drove a few times and it was fine. Few days later customer brought back with same code p0307. thought maybe I got a bad plug or coil so I moved them to #6, misfire stays on #7. When I drive it local its fine when I go to pull on to highway and really put my foot in it CEL flashes (misfire) and it pings like crazy and loses all power. Scan it back at shop and still only p0307!!
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I have a 1999 ford ranger 3.0 6 cyl with 211,110 miles It started running rough without any previous warning signs. In idle its barely noticeable, once i put it in gear it gets rougher and when driving around 40 to 45 mph it roughly shakes and shimmies. Once I get past the 40 to 45 mph range it settles back down. Is there a specific issue that would cause that at that speed. When going up over a bridge the check engine light blinks.
I changed the spark plugs and new wires and it offered no success even though one of the plugs were black (to much gas). I have borrowed a diagnostic tool and got P0305 cylinder 5 misfire, I am thinking fuel injector to replace, what else should I be looking at?
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I have a very Big problem with my Ford Escape 2002 I have this problems code: P0305 accuses Cylinder #5 P0306 accuses Cylinder #6.
I already change the gasket i buy the felpro Kit, and i Also replace all the sparks and spark plug boots, I clean the air sensors and i also replace the EGR, i try to switch cables, and all is the same the car start buy when i accelerate it just go off, i don't know what can i do next, somebody told me to change the fuel injector, i take the pressure in both spark holes the number 4 was 150 and the 5 and 6 was 120, No leaks oil. My car is a Ford Escape 2002, XLT 3.0 4x4
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Here is my situation : I have a F150 1999 4x4 ext cab with 326 000 km. A little while ago I got a P0401 code so I decide to clean the TB first and at the same time change plugs and wires since they were overdue. The same code came back and a misfire. Ordered EGR valve, DPFE sensor and selenoid. Realize that I had ordered crappy plugs by mistake. I change all plugs. Had to wait for the EGR valve and others to arrive. I drove the truck for a while since I did not have the time to change the valve and others, during that time the misfire did not come back. Yesterday I change the EGR and others. Today I get a truck that runs really rough and got new codes , P0305 and P0174. I'm really confused now on what should be my next step, should I change the coils, can a P0305 cause a P0174. Should I change vacuum hose going to the EGR , selenoid and DPFE.
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Our 2007 Avalon with 65xxx miles on it was skipping and running rough this morning. Running a scan with my VAG-COM gave me these codes.
Mode 07: Pending emission related fault codes Address 7E8: 2 Faults Found: P0305 - Cylinder 5: Misfire Detected P0355 - Ignition Control Circuit for Cylinder 5: Malfunction
Would you say it is time to replace the Coil for this cylinder, or should I do more troubleshooting first?
From what I've read on this forum, it appears cylinders 1, 3 & 5 are at the rear of the engine and are a PITA to change. Is there a good write-up or video on how to change these at the rear of the engine?
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I just checked my computer I have a couple codes
P0453 evap emission system pressure sensor/ switch high
P0232 fuel pump secondary circuit high
C1303 right front isolation clamping circuit..
P0305 cylinder 5 misfire.
I changed the fuel pump 2 days ago and the coil on cyl 5.
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05 2 wheel drive f150xl 4.2 l 135,000 miles. Smoking white out of exhaust. More at start up but doesn't go away. Turns a little blue. When parked at idle if I bring up the RPM's quick I will get a little puff of black in the white smoke. I can't smell or taste(when I touch my fingers to mouth) any anti freeze in the exhaust smoke but I live in Myrtle Beach and I have little if any anti freeze in the coolant. I flushed the motor, changed oil and filter and added a can of seafoam. I took the throttle body off and cleaned it. I also replaced the air filter because I went down a dirt road and hit a deep water hole. Dirt and mud got into the air filter and by passed it also. This was the reason for the engine flush also. I can't recall any smoke before this. Maybe a puff on start up from moisture not sure. Im going to buy a coil pack and plugs and start from there. I have never had this many codes.
P0174 Bank system 2 to lean P0300 random multipl Lean mil. Missfire detected P0305 random multiple Missfire detected cylinder 5 misfire P0306 cylinder 6 Missfire P0316 Missfire detected on start up first 1000 revolution
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Toyota read the codes wrong and told me that I need a new hybrid battery. That is incorrect info. Codes P0300 P0301 P0302P0303. The codes mean misfire in cylinders 1 , 2 and 3. I have had injector cleaned in the past new spark plugs. If I drive it it gets warmed up and shuts down. It will restart and run maybe 7 more miles the same. The brake light comes on and I have to restart it.
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My 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
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I bought a 2001 golf gls 1.8T (AWW) about a month ago and it was running pretty bad, was throwing some codes, cylinder 1 misfire and some o2 sensor codes, I replaced the coil packs and spark plugs and then cleaned the MAF. It was still running bad ,rough idle and power loss. I figured it had to be some kind of vacuum leak, I replaced the PCV valve, cleaned the intercooler and put on a silicon TIP. Still had some rough idle and power loss, checked for vacuum leaks, using the good ole starter fluid method and found my intake manifold was leaking so I replaced that gasket. STILL rough idle and power loss, now I'm pulling codes for o2 sensor and a misfire in cylinder 3. My question is, should I replace my pre-cat o2 sensor or replace my MAF sensor? Or are there other things that should also be checked/replace.
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I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
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Often, when starting it will run rough and throw different misfire codes. Most of the time it smooths out in short order (a minute or less). When it doesn't smooth out quickly, it smooths out when I clear the code. Also, rarely it will start very hard. I have to wimd out the starter pretty good to get it to start. All that I have done is cleaned the MAF sensor.
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I have a 2004 santa fe with the 2.7L v6. I was driving and then it started to sputter and then stalled. I tried to restart, but the the engine would crank but no start. I came back to it about half hour later it started up as if there was no problem, and then after a 10 minute ride it stalled and did the same thing.I got it home and scanned it, came up with a couple misfire codes, a crank sensor code, and improper segment timing code ( I never heard of improper segment timing ). Also after fuel fill ups it never wants to start or stay running. I researched the fill up problem and found the purge canister valve to be bad. I haven't changed the purge valve yet, would that have anything to do with the stalling? If the crank sensor was bad, would it start later if it sat for a while. With my experiences when a crank sensor goes bad, the vehicle wont restart at all.
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