I just did a 2000 mile round trip in my treg...what an awesome highway vehicle. The air suspension is supposed to lower at speeds over 76 mph I believe. I was running at 85 to 90 most of the time. Any indication of the lowering in the display? I really couldn't tell if it was happening or not. Does it lower in all suspension modes, i.e comfort, auto etc? It didn't seem to raise upon slowing.
View 15 RepliesAlright cliff notes are lowered my 2012 GTI on Eibach Pro Kit springs and Koni Yellows (adjustable) as a DIY driveway job and at first were OK, but 2 weeks later are clunking to the point where it sounds like its going to fall on the ground. Any road imperfection makes it clunk (from the front only).
-Clunks all the time, slow, fast, turns, straight, large or small bumps. Doesn't clunk with dips...
-Gets better when its hot outside (>70 degrees),
Having problem with air suspension lowering and rising without changing any settings? Is this normal or maybe I have a leak in my system?
View 10 RepliesBut i still have the sound, and it definitely sounds like its coming from the passenger side, however when i looked at everything and tried wiggling the wheel, nothing seemed out of place. Would that still indicate a bad ball joint? Is there anything else i should inspect/have inspected?
The sound only happens when i go over a big bump, or a medium bump at a higher speed. It doesn't seem to affect my steering or driving feel, but its still not a noise that should be there.
I found that the driver side tie rod was a little loose, and replaced that, but sound persists.
I have an 04 rx 330 with air suspension. The swaybar end links have just been replaced on the front and a rattling noise persists.
The noise happens over large and small bumps at high and low speeds at normal and low vehicle height. When the height is at "HI" the noise is louder and it feels as though the front end is shaking loose over bumps at 10 km/h+.
I took it in and was advised to replace the end links, they did so and returned it claiming the noise was gone. The air compressor and struts are in working condition.
I have done a search through the forum, not extensive... I was wondering which other components come loose/wear and cause a clunk/rattle/shudder noise.
Also, tires are new and at approx. 32-34 psi.
I have a 04 v6 model , in the last couple of months when I am on the interstate at about 75-80 mph. I get a very loud vibrating noise coming from the rear of the vehicle. The dealer thinks the drive shaft has some play in it.
View 6 RepliesMy 2004 V8 egg is currently at 111,000 miles and I'm starting to have problems that are really cause for concern. Since the blue book value on the Touareg is worthless and I've got it paid off, I might as well keep it until the wheels fall off of it. Anyhow, on to the problem at hand ...
When driving on the interstate at high speed somewhere around 80 - 90 mph and you push the accelerator to get that extra bit of speed out of the downshift so you can pass or just for the heck of it, the transmission starts clunking, LOUDLY, which of course causes you to let your foot off the gas. The clunking continues for about 5 - 10 seconds until the car has slowed down a bit.
I can still get the car up to speeds of around 110 mph (my wife tried it just about 15 minutes ago on our way back from Florida), but it has to be done gradually as to keep the transmission from downshifting.
Around town the car responds fine. Occasionally it will have a hard shift, but I can't find a reason or pattern to that. Fifth gear also works fine in city traffic, I've used tiptronic to keep it in 5th and I've also watched the main display change from D4 to D5 to D6 and back again without incident.
I'm too afraid to take the car up to 90 and then engage tiptronic and downshift to 5th. This transmission has had its fair share of problems. I'm on my third stepper motor, the forward transmission seal had to be replaced and then later the hydraulic pump had to be replaced. There are no noticeable fluid stains on the belly pans and there are no stains on my garage floor, so I doubt its leaking fluid. Can you even check the transmission fluid level in this thing?
Other than the transmission problem, the Touareg is behaving fairly well. (Knock on wood) It still rides nice and I've learned to put up with the little electrical anomalies that happen like the blue strobe backlight compass (it's just dancing along with the music) and the lights switching ON in full daylight (with the euro switch installed).
Those of you w/the "sport exhaust" on later 04's and 05's, at 80- MPH ... I get an engine exhaust resonance that varies with throttle. On throttle bad whine, off throttle no issue. Go 75 it's ok. Go 85 it's ok. My dealer hasn't heard of this. Not sure what can be done but on a long trip the drone will drive you nuts.
View 2 RepliesMy 07 AT 2.0 has a weird problem - when auto downshifting after a long drive at highways speeds, the whole car thuds. This happens after driving about 20 miles or so at 60MPH+. 5 or 10 miles are not a problem.
What happens is that when it slips down into 2nd, it sounds like something jams (no grinding). The force/feeling is similar to running into something at a slow speed - like bumping a car while parking.
If I slip into Tip and downshift manually, it doesn't happen. Outside of this the car has 22K miles and drives great.
After having lowering springs installed, I've been noticing a clunk noise in the rear suspension when driving over dips in the road (eg. getting out of the parking lot onto the main road). It feels like having your wheels lifted in mid-air and being dropped onto the road.
View 14 RepliesGetting some vibration at high speeds on the highway, and when I changed my wheels, I noted that there seems to be some free play in the ball joint on the end. Is this normal? Can I replace just the end of the tie rod?
View 3 RepliesI just got a 2000 1.8T Manual Passat last year. had about 98,000K miles on it when i got it. Engine light came on this year and now it has about 132,000K miles on it. time for a tuneup. what should I replace or do to it. Leaks oil a little from up under the engine somewhere, and the car shakes a bit at high speeds (120Miles/h). engine up front is kind of loud, sounds like air is leaking out up front somewhere when its running. I figured I could replace the air filter,valve cover, spark plugs, pcv valve, fuel filter, oil filter and change oil, and a good engine greasing. what else should I do? what else could I do. what else should i really do, I love the car, second one i have had of that year. first one was a automatic and the tranny went out.
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2002 4-dr 1.6 L Accent and there is a strange, high-pitched squeaking that comes about from somewhere under the car at very slow speeds (30 mph or below). If I hit the brakes, the noise continues sometimes as the car slows. (The noise isn't the brakes, though, I know that), but if I hit the gas pedal slowly, the noise stops. Whatever is vibrating underneath doesn't seem to be causing a problem at high speeds. Or I just can't hear it.
Secondly, I am going to try to do some tune-ups for the summer for lack of better things to do, mostly, I can pretty much do anything (intake/exhaust, engine, electrical) as long as I can find detailed instructions.
Why my truck shake/ vibrates only at high speeds above 65mph. Once I drop below 65 is smooth as can be.
View 14 RepliesI drive a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport w/ 4.7L V8 engine. I have been dealing with an overheating problem for about 6 months now and have nearly exhausted all hope of correcting the issue. It has been in the shop on 4 separate occasions and seen 2 different mechanics. The radiator has been replaced, the thermostat and thermostat housing have been replaced, the radiator fan works properly, hoses have been replaced and no subsequent leak has been found by either mechanic, they haven't mentioned the possibility of a blown Head Gasket (nor has the typical "milky residue," shown up in my oil cap). Each time I got it back from the shop the problem was fixed for about two weeks, then returned and slowly got worse.
It overheats in idle (with the fan running), on the highway at high speeds, and while driving slow. Sometimes it only gets about 3/4th to the red (usually when its cool at night) and sometimes it will hover just below the red; while I'm doing everything I can to keep it from hitting red (defrost on, revving engine). Some days it takes a little while to get hot and some days it happens very quickly. I'm tired of sinking money into the vehicle but as a recent grad I don't have the money for a new truck at this point. Suggestions included heater core clogged, water pump gone bad, fan clutch.
What besides a 4" exhaust can I do to lower EGT? When I tow with my tow tune the EGT gets high on long steep pulls. Would like to be able to use it with the tune because there is more power and it pulls nicer, but I want to lower my EGT. I have a 4" flo pro system coming. What else can I do? Would a new intercooler make much of a difference? Already have an S&B cold intake and Banks Hi Ram.
View 14 RepliesAlright I did a search and found these threads with no final resolution on each. My new 2013 has the whistling noise at high speeds (65+) and high winds. It's for sure not from the engine and coming from both the driver and passenger mirrors. I can hear it with either or both front windows down but not back windows. No whistle at idle or due to high RPMs. What is the Jetta TSB # or a fix for this issue.
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I have a 2005 Saab 97x. It has auto-leveling air suspension. Recently, it seems to have developed a slow leak. When I drive all day, it is fine, but each morning when I go outside, the rear end is eight inches lower than it was when I parked it the night before. If I start up the car, the pump kicks in, and the rear end lifts to its proper level.
View 1 RepliesI recently bought a 2004 Mustang convertible V6 auto with 180K miles to be my daughter's first car. The car has a driveability issue. It has a "rumble-strip" like vibration at speeds between 35-55 mph. This is when accelerating or decelerating. If I slip the car in neutral when driving the vibration is gone. Here is what I have done: new plugs, wires, coil. New u-joints. Front end needed a new tie rod end on right side, new transmission filter and fluid (only replacing lost pan fluid). Another thing wrong with the car (possibly related?) is that the ABS & traction control lights are stuck on indicating a system failure with the ABS.
Note that when replacing the ujoints I noted a couple of things:1- there is SOME amount of play at the transmission tailshaft bushing. It seemed excessive to me, but a local transmission shop told me that if it is not leaking fluid that it is not a problem. I did not gage the movement, but it was close to 1/16".2 - The other thing I noticed is that the universal joint for the rear yoke was a little bit stiff, meaning that it did not move as easily as I would have thought that it should. This was the case with both the old rear u-joint and the new, This indicates to me that the pinion trunnion ears are not perfectly aligned, but not sure what I should expect.
This just started happening on the driver side. Going over bumps and slight road wobble type imperfections make a medium pitched clunk sound. The sound stops as soon as I press the brakes ( which I just replaced last week). I do have a worn out bushing on the curved lower control arm. Could that be it? Do I need to replace all control arms or can I do just the curved set? If thats the issue.
View 13 RepliesOne issue is unresolved with my 2007 LS 460 L. Minor noise from the suspension area on rough roads at low speeds, it is a rattle sound that is intermittent on rough roads or parking lots. I tried two dealerships but the issue remains unresolved. Most recently the second dealer said it is fixed and had the following listed in the sheet "ADJUSTED ENGINE COVER NOISE IN FRONT SUSPENSION - 99259 INSULATED METAL ENGINE COVER, ROAD TESTED WITH 2 TECHNICIANS TO CONFIRM NO ADDITIONAL NOISES ".
After few weeks, noise is reappearing occasionally.