Touareg :: 1997 - Ignition Switch / Car Won't Turn Over
May 4, 2007
I was having all the tell tale signs of the almighty ignition switch. No lights, wipers, heater fan. But I didn't have time to change it. The other day went to start it and nothing. I changed the switch I have headlights wipers blower fan now which is sweet. But the car still wont turn over.
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I'm having a problem with my ignition switch. It won't turn and I have to turn the steering wheel for it to finally work.
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97 Toyota Camry 2.2l motor.
Sometimes, when I turn the ignition on I don't hear a sound and all the power dies in the car (the radio ejects the CD and all the presets are erased when I turn it out of start). This can happen once or twice in a row then generally the car starts up normally.
The battery is brand new (1 month) and is fully charged. My hope is that it's the starter drawing too much power when it tries to start? It's entirely possible it has the factory starter still on the car.
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When my wife went to put the key in the ignition switch, the ignition switch fell in behind the dash.
So I took off work early today and went to trade in my 95 Trooper and get an '04 Touareg. I guess I'll have to cancel my Planet Isuzu account. A friend of mine works at a dealership and they had two '04s on the lot, one black, one beige. I went with the beige because my black Jetta doesn't hide dirt well at all and the bird poop really stands out. Also, the beige, although it has more miles (47,000), was in much better shape, was more cush, and felt safer on the test drive. Not sure the why of that other than the owner of the black one put some really hard miles on it, or perhaps he had a sportier suspension.
Anyway, I buy the thing, take it home, and park it up by the mailboxes. I then put the key in the mailbox and walked home. I told my wife the Trooper broke down (a very believable story) and asked her to come for a ride with me in the golf cart to get the mail so I could vent.
On the ride there, I tell her a great story about how and where the Trooper broke down and what a pain in the ass it was and how I couldn't reach her on her cell phone, and it's a good thing our friend Marc runs a towing service and she's buying it. And she opens the mailbox. And she gets the key and is thrilled.
So she drives it home and I drive the golf cart home and we go inside and decide to go take a ride to get some dinner. I let her drive. We get in and she goes to put the key in the ignition and says, "That's weird." And as I say, "What's weird?" she goes to put the key in again and the ignition switch disappears and falls in behind the dash. There's a hole in my dash where my key used to go.
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Had to replace the ignition switch. after I went to crank it after switching it out, there was a buzzing around the relay control module. Thought that maybe somehow the ignition tripped something in it so bought a new one. IT is still buzzing and car won't turn over. everything lights up on dash. tried to see if there were any codes and the scanner just reads "fail".
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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I put my LS 430 key in my RX330 yesterday, I realized as soon as the ignition would not turn. I put the RX key in, and ignition will not turn. I'm assuming that the pins may be locked so I tried a few options.
- I wiggled the key.
- I lubricated the lock.
- I tried rocking the car while trying to turn the ignition.
- I tapped the ignition lightly with a screw driver and hammer, but no luck.
- I turn the steering wheel while turning ignition to make sure its not locked.
I really don't want to get the car towed to the stealer/dealer.
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I have a problem with turning my key. It will not turn at all. I have taken the upper and lower part of the cover off to expose the switch and removed one screw from the ignition housing, but the internal part of the ignition switch will not come out. How do I completely remove this ignition switch. I have already removed the negative battery cable. It seems this is a continual problem with focuses. Oh, do I need a releasing tool to release the ignition switch.
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I have a 2000 Staturn LW2 auto, 6cyl. When I try to turn on the car, sometimes the engine does not turn, doesn't make a sound, nothing. When I move the steering wheel, it turns on fine, it has to be in a certain position. Does that mean, the ignition switch is faulty or is it the pin? Is there a test I can do?
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I am having a little issue with the ignition in my car. I had the typical no headlights/wipers/heater etc. so I ordered up a new ignition switch and when I went to replace it, the switch fit perfectly and had the correct part number but when I put my key in to try and start the car I couldn't even turn the key but when I put the old switch back in it would turn just fine. Also when I removed the old switch I noticed the red wire going to the switch was slightly burnt right at the terminal.
Here is the basic procedure I did:
-Unhook negative battery cable
-remove lower dash/ center console
-remove switch
-install new switch
Whats this little metal piece? I did not see that when I did mine...
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I have recently been having problems getting the ignition switch to turn. There seems to be a negative correlation to warmer weather (the warmer the weather, the more likely I will have a negative experience --- and I will get the switch to turn only with some difficulty). When I have such a failure (in which the switch does not turn), I take the key out, wipe it off with my hand, flip it over and shove it back in. Sometimes this works with one try. Sometimes it takes multiple tries. My fear, of course, is that one of these times it will never work, and I will be stranded. I should add that I do have another key, and that I have had the same experience with this key. I don't really want to spend hundreds of dollars on a new ignition switch... and I especially don't if that is really not the problem.
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In the mornings when I turn the ignition switch to on right before starting, I don't hear the fuel pump wining. I notice the wining on almost every other car that Ive drove. I don't know if its because of this I get a rough start. It usually happens only in the mornings especially on cold days. During the rest of the day I can hear it clear and it turns on right away with no problem. I have tried to turn the ignition switch on then off then back on to see if the pump would turn on but nothing. Also sometimes I have to keep the gas pedal down about half ways for it to turn on and not stall. Tomorrow I am going to check to see if any fuel lines are clogged.
Car is a 2000 accent gs 1.5l 12sohc ... With about 87500 miles on it ...
Anything I should replace with these many miles ... Planning to replace spark plugs and timing belt myself ...
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'04 RX330: Starting about a year ago, occasionally when inserting the ignition key it wouldn't turn to start. Take key out try again and it would start. Progressively, it seems to be requiring more and more in/out cycles to get the key to turn. It's like the transponder is not recognizing the key FOB. I have two keys, one is a master and other is a sub key, both have the problem. What has to be done to correct it? I'm afraid the dealer will just change some expensive ignition part when there's an easier fix.
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I have a 1997 F150 that I have taken to a mechanic twice and it is still not right. I had a igination switch replaced and now when the humidity is really high
(I am Guessing), I can have the key in the house and my truck lights flash the radio is on and it sounds like it is trying to start. How hard is it to replace the igination switch myself. I believe it has a short someone in the steering column.
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My 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
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I'm trying to get friend's 04 F150 4x4 started. I think it might be the ignition switch. Here's what I've done. Turn the Key and nothing happens. Not even a clicking sound from the battery.
-verified the battery had a good charge and that terminals were clean, connections were tight.
-checked the fuses in the passenger side kick panel, none were blown
-Determined there was power to the primary Pos wire going to the starter , but no power being sent to the smaller wire that goes to solenoid at the starter.
-Hooked a jumper wire to the starter solenoid and engine did crank (so starter is good and battery is making good connection)
This is why I'm thinking its the ignition switch.
1) Where is the ignition switch located?
2)How can I test the ignition switch?
3)Could it be the "cylinder lock and keys" that is faulty?
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Is there any way to get rid of the chimes that sound then the car is on and the driver's door is opened? I have found the VAG instructions for getting rid of the ignition switch chime and seat belt chime but not the light switch chimes.
Whenever the switch is in the left (off) position and I open the door with the car running, it chimes every second... not bad. But, when the light switch is in the middle setting (automatic lights) and I open the door, it gives off a very loud prolonged beep and says "Side Light Is Switched On " in the MFI. This only happens at night when the DRLs are off and the system turns the full headlights on. During the day when the car is using DRLs, it jus does the intermittent chimes like the off position.
This is extremely annoying... any way to just turn all the light warning beeps off?? If you don't know the beep I am talking about, put your car on and lights in the right (on) position and then open the driver's door... heard that loud screech?? That is what I am talking about. Only, that sound also happens when the lights are in the middle (auto) position and it is night time.
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Has noticed that if you turn off the ignition with the directional on, a warning will come on and the directional will stay lit? I wonder why it does that?
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I drive a 1997 well-maintained Toyota. This is the 1st time I've had this problem. It started yesterday. I started my car, as usual to stop somewhere for 5 minutes. When I returned I tried to start the car and got "nothing". No sounds, but the lights/radio/dashlight worked. I tried several times, gave up and called AAA.
I took a walk around the block to see if my mechanic was open on Saturday in case I had to tow my car there. It wasn't. I went back to my car to wait for AAA. However, this time the car started immediately, and I drove home after cancelling AAA. I drove the car the rest of the day/evening on & off with no problems.
Today, I tried to start it in the AM and once again it did not start (like the previous day). My neighbor suggested that the ignition & steering wheel are related and could be something to do with that. Anyway, I tried turning the wheel to the right/left, etc. but could not get it started today as I did the day before,
Tomorrow I plan to have it towed (or maybe it will start again) to my mechanic. What could be wrong? Never had this type of thing happen before. The battery is good.
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I own a 1997 Honda Odyssey-a couple of weeks ago when I turned the key it wouldn't start....no noise,no clicking however the battery was working. I called Road service for a tow home and while waiting,I kept putting in the key.After 20 min.the car started and I drove home. Since then it's gotten worse. It's a gamble to go any where, never knowing if it will start or not. My husband replaced the ignition switch-that didn't work and now says he'll replace the starter ( if that doesn't work he plans on replacing the entire ignition cylinder). My alarm system hooks into the ignition...
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When I turn off the ignition and try to rotate the ignition switch/key to the steering column lock position it will not go all the way. It stops just before locking the steering column and I cannot remove the key. This is an automatic with a gearshift on the column. I have to reach up with my left hand to pull the gearshift lever up as if to pass the PARK position. While holding the gearshift like that the ignition switch can be rotated to lock and key removed.
I had the dealership attempt to fix this twice while under warranty with no success. After 10 years I am sick of it and would like to fix it. 2002 Ford F150 4x4 5.4L automatic on column.
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