2010 Tiguan S FWD
My coolant temp light comes on randomly. It blinks and a sound beeps three times. After it stops beeping, the light continues to blink.
It doesn't come on all the time. It is very random. I connected the VAG-COM to see if there were any stored faults, but there were none.
Driving home from work today, normal day in the high 60s, my temp gauge randomly stopped working. It was right at the 190 mark where it should be then a few miles from my house it just dropped to 0. When I got to my house and turned it off the fans stayed on for quite a few minutes.
I went inside and looked around on a few different forums. Most people said it was the thermostat or some sensor that could have crapped out.
Probably 30 minutes later I went out to restart it hoping the problem magically disappeared and it actually did. Start up and went straight up to 190 as it should. Turned it off to no fans as usual.
What this could be? Could it just be a sensor on the way out? Still under warranty so might try calling the dealer tomorrow when they open to ask for their input.
Just as reference my car is a 2011 with about 48k and is revo stage 1 for about 3k.
I was driving on freeway today and the car start to stutter sounds like it's not getting gas the engine light to blink, so quickly exit the freeway and pull over the parking lot, turn the car off. Scan the car I got 5 codes all misfire 1,3 and 4 cylinder miss fire, I try to start the car it would crank but and try to run but if would die quickly sound like the car is not getting gas. Just wondering if fuel pump going bad.
View 3 RepliesMy elderly mother brought a used 2006 Volvo SR60, in 2008. Later she discovered that the radiator light/coolant would blink on in the car. The Coolant was low. She took the car to To Mckevitt Volvo here in the Bay Area. The car was under warranty. McKevitt replaced the radiator
Apparently she kept having problems with the coolant system in the car. She took the car to another car repair place (Ackerman) and they detected a tiny crack in the radiator, but they said it wasn't enough of a leak to cause the leak. Then they suggested replacing the thermostat of the car. Apparently, this is a real costly procedure costing hundreds of dollars. She opted not to do this..
Recently she took the car back to McKevitt Volvo, still because of the coolant problems, the car is no longer under warranty,, Mckevitt held the car for a couple of days, after an inspection for leaks, they told her they could not find any leak, although they cleaned up the car, and didn't charge her for their services.
So now she's paying on a newer model car, , that leaks coolant, but no one knows where....
Does she still have any recourse, what should she do? She's an older person in her 60's so she needs her car and doesn't need a blown head gasket. I suggested, trying one of those "over_the_counter_" radiator, coolant system seal, to stop any leak, are these safe to use?
Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
View 3 RepliesI've notice sometimes when i first start the car the outside temp gauge blinks. What does that mean?
View 6 RepliesToday was the worst weather ever since the Tiguan left the factory, it was -10˚C and it was parked outside.
When I turned the car on, the coolant light was flashing with a beeping sound. The indicator was acting normally and it stopped in the middle as usual when I drove about 8KM.
I then stopped and turned the car OFF and then ON after a few minutes and it was gone.
I searched and many people said something about topping up the coolant fluid. To me, this doesn't make sense because it only happened to them and I when the weather was cold.
Is there anything to worry about? the car is still new with 12,xxxKM.
Here is an image ...
Today was the first time my wagon has stranded me due to a mechanical issue. During city driving my coolant temp light came on so I pulled over to check it out. The fans appeared to be working, the coolant was a fair bit above the normal mark, but I'm not sure the water pump was running. I couldn't feel anything when I squeezed the top radiator hose. This is an '03 with about 50k miles on it.
I'll be taking it in Monday morning so I was curious what people's thoughts were. If it's the water pump is there anything else I should consider getting replaced while I'm at it? I'm still on the original timing belt, a change I've been delaying a long time since I drive so little so it might be time to bite the bullet and do it.
I have been battling this for some time. The check engine light comes after a period of time from reset. I have changed the thermostat, temp sensor, coolant flush and added per MFG.
I am down to clutch fan. The temp gauge sits right at 210.
From what I can tell is the check engine light comes on because the engine reaches operating temp to SLOWLY. Im guessing because the clutch fan is spinning to early in the game.
After the car has sat for awhile 1-2 hours, when I start it back up the engine coolant temp light comes on and remains on for 1-3 minutes. This happens regardless of the ambient temp outside. It can be 40 degrees up to 80 and it will still come on. This started a few months ago, I have drained and flushed the cooling system, and wondering id this may be an indication that my thermostat is faulty and needs to be changed.
2008 Accent 3 door 159K ....
Before someone says "normal" I know the low temp light is supposed to come on until the car reaches normal operating temp My problem is really strange and my mechanic and I are both perplexed. I have a 2008 Yaris automatic sedan with 98K miles on it.
The symptoms:
After driving for quite a while (30 minutes or more at times) the low temp light will come on... and sometimes goes right out... and sometimes goes on for a while.
If the check engine light isn't already on - it will eventually go on.
Sometimes with the low temp light is on - it will race the engine (just straight high rev) OR it will pulse the engine (like I am pumping the gas peddle) OR it will not let the car shift into high gear (rare). Remember... all of this happens after the car has been running for while so it warmed up.
What we've tried (over a 4 week period now):
The error code indicates to replace the thermostat - so we've replaced it... twice. We've replaced the actual low temp sensor. We've checked the wiring between the sensors and the computer - wiring does not appear to have a short. Last week we replaced the computer with a used one, but the same problem still exists with a replaced computer...
What the mechanic says now:Might be an air conditioning thing running the fan too long?
Can you really run a fan so long it will drop the car temp back to below the low range operating temperature while driving on a highway? That seems pretty unlikely to me.... If it were just a flickering light, I wouldn't be so concerned... but because it revs the engine (even when I am at a stop light and I have to push the brake harder so it won't start moving) and it sometimes wont shift into high gear... it's concerning from a safety perspective.
Recently the temp sensor on my car goes all the way to H and then the light comes on saying I need coolant. It only seems to happen when I have the heat and/or defrost on -- if I turn the heat off the temp goes back to normal within a minute or so. (no problem using rear defrost)
First time it happened I pulled over, checked coolant level and added a little. The next time it happened I looked under the hood the next morning and coolant level was just fine.
Happens more often when I'm driving around town than on highway. Usually within about 5 minutes of driving in the morning the engine temp is all the way to H.
After about an hour of driving, the coolant temperature light on my 2010 GTI started blinking. The gauge never showed a temperature higher than the usual 190, including traffic and idling. Having reached my destination, I shut the car off and then back on, happy to see no warning lights at all. One dinner and some three hours later, I started back for home. 20 minutes into the drive, the car sounded three tones and the blinking light came on again.
Like before, the car drove without incident for the rest of the drive, and the light was no longer present once the car had been shut off and then on again. The owner's manual said that the coolant level might be too low, or the temperature too high, but neither of these seem to be the case. The car is equipped with GIAC stage I software and an Audi S3 intercooler.
Ever since having the EGR delete done, the oil temp has been LOWER than the coolant temp. I am assuming this is bad info from the sending unit? They are reading with in a degree of each other at start up, but when at operating temp the gauge will read lower. Before the EGR delete I had a delta of about 4-7* oil hotter than coolant.
View 1 RepliesCoolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
View 8 RepliesI bought my daughter a Tiguan late last year, new 2012 model and since she has had it she has been having a serious problem. Whilst driving it randomly just shuts off and you have to restart it. AS you can expect this is extremely dangerous! Have had it back to the dealer now on two occasions and they cant find anything wrong, nor is their any error codes produced in the ECU.
View 24 RepliesI have a 1999 F-150 w/ 4.2 V6. and auto trans, truck has 219,000 miles on chassis but only 25,000 on engine and 10,000 on trans. I've been getting obd codes p0705 and p0715. I replaced the position sensor on outside of trans. but I continue to get the codes off and on again. I noticed that the O/D "OFF" light on the shift selector blinks simultaneously when the "service engine soon" light comes on. I've noticed that there is no low gear unless I have it in D from a dead stop, and not even when downshifting manually.
View 1 RepliesThe throttle moves by itself, and the arrow of the temp indicator goes up and down randomly. Sometimes it won't start, or starts and then dies. The check engine light is not on, so my mechanic says he doesn't know what to fix and it might be the computer and I have to take it to the dealer.Well, there is no Saturn dealer, so I'm taking it to a Chevy dealer that is doing Saturn repairs. What I might expect?I just had a new air intact put in and a throttle sensor about a year ago.The antifreeze was recently flushed. 1997 Saturn wagon ...
View 3 RepliesLet's start from the beginning. 3 months ago, I replaced my oil pan, and since then I've noticed that white smoke would randomly blow out of my exhaust- A couple times when I really got on her, and a few times when sitting idling for 10-15 minutes.
Two days ago, I was driving and about to hop on the highway to make my 40 minute commute home, realized that my temp had gone up about an eighth over 190 (usually stone cold centered)... Watched it for another 2 minutes and the temp was 3/4 of the way to the red, so I pulled over and popped the hood.
The coolant reservoir was COMPLETELY empty, which didn't really make any sense- I had been running my AC all day because it was hot out, but I don't think I was idling with the AC on for too long.
I let her cool off, had a friend bring me some coolant (not much at all) and a TON of water. Filled her up and went home; temp was trying to climb but I wouldn't accelerate too much so she wouldn't go much higher than that eighth over the 190 mark.
Next morning, dropped her off at a mechanic's before work, asked for an oil change, inspection, and to check out this temp issue. These guys told me that they ran a compression test and everything was okay, no leaks or cracks in any hoses so it is a faulty turbo. They also stated that in idle, there seems to be intermittent white smoke out of the exhaust- coolant burning, obviously).
Drove it from them to a spot nearby to let her cool off because I wanted to see if there was more white smoke.. Driving TO the location, I blew A LOT of white smoke on acceleration, I had the heat blasting the entire time so the temp didn't really rise too much.
I'm hoping it's not the turbo, reading up on these issues in here it could be a number of things, but the ONLY reason why I don't want to spend a fortune on replacing the turbo right now is because one or two mechanics i spoke to today said it's not the turbo, but 3 others said it was...
I have no loss of power, no hesitation, and no abnormal sounds from the turbo. Actually, she sounds amazing. I don't however thing it's a head gasket because the dipstick and oil cap aren't milky.
The green lights work on the AC and Max AC buttons. However, when I attempt the ignition on, fan off, press AC button 3x, fan to auto - nothing happens. No light blinking at all.
View 1 RepliesMy 2000 Explorer overdrive light will blink once in awhile no hard shifting, no slipping, i also pushed the overdrive button while it was doing this and it went out of overdrive , trans has been service, I know this is a common issue with explorers . I understand that it could be caused by a number of issues. I haven't had the codes pulled yet.
View 4 Replies