Tiguan :: Won't Start - Move Lever To P/N Message
Dec 1, 2011
Can't start my Tiguan this morning. Getting the message "Move lever to P/N". The lever IS in park - moving to neutral doesn't work either.
Last night the girlfriend turned off the car while it was still in gear (she's used to manual). I've done that before though and never had any issues. You can't actually remove the key until it's in park anyway.
However now the computer seems to be stuck on the idea that the vehicle is still in gear. Not sure what to do. Guess I'm going to just keep trying it through out the day and hope it ends up correcting itself. I'll just work from home today/tomorrow. But I'm eventually going to have to get it towed to the VW dealership.
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I am Having a problem on my 2005 Phaeton which has a 3.2 engine. Last time I drove it was yesterday and had no problems. This morning, I'd turn the key and it give me various error message."Move selector lever to position P/N" ...
I tried to move it but with no luck , the message is still there and I also noticed that the light on the shift that indicates that I need to press on the break to start is not glowing. This is not the 1st time I had this error but before I had to leave it for a while and it will start ...
I really love my Phaeton and it has only 75,774 kilometres on , so it is quite new ...
You can see the error message and the light indication below in the pictures ....
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Today when I head home I was getting the message "Move Selector Lever to Position P." It would come and go. No other lights or warning what so ever were lit. What this message was for and why it was displaying??
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I have 2013 elentra just about a year old, (Took delivery june/2012). Recently some thing happen on the Shift lever, can't shift to "R" for back in parking, Shift to "N" is OK.
Some time it can't shift out from PARK to "R" or "N" or "D" ... Under any of this situation,car engine would not start.
Sound like the SHIFT LOCK did not release properly, or the Brake paddle position switch input did not send to Computer for engine Start.
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I have a European Phaeton 3.2 litre V6 (gasoline) from 2003 that is giving me some problems. When I am finished driving I put the gear lever to parking position and turn off the ignition. I then get a message "Move selector lever to position p" and the key is stuck in the ignition.
So far, I have been able to get the error message away (and with that also been able to get the key out) by starting the car and move the gear lever around. Some times I have managed by only starting the system (by not holding my foot on the brake pedal). But tonight I couldn't get it fixed after numerous tries. I then simply waited in the car, because I didn't really know what to do, and after maybe five minutes the system shut down (energy saving mode?) and I could finally get the key out.
When I tried google the error message I found some topics about it on the Touareg forums, but they got the error message while driving and it had to do with the keyless system (which my car doesn't have).
What might be causing this problem? My local VW dealer is not very used to Phaetons (I am the only on in my town with one).
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I have a 99' GMC 1500 Sierra SLT w/5.3 Vortec V-8 w/460,000 miles (yup !!) I bought the p/u w/59,000 miles, and the gear-selection lever on the column has always been hard to move when selecting gears. My daughter drives the p/u, and is hard for her to select gears.
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I had something unusual happen recently... I backed out the driveway and went to put the car in drive and found the shift lever harder to move than normal and it wouldn't go into drive. It would go into park and reverse easily enough. After some manipulation it went into drive and ran with no problems to my destination. At first, I thought something fell down into the mechanism and was causing it to bind. AND of course, when I showed it to a pal, I could not recreate the issue. The next morning it worked fine, but it happened again later in the day, but it took much longer to get it into drive.
On the way home, the check engine and traction control lights both came on. I dropped it off at my mechanics and he diagnosed error code C1201 P0705 and claims that the remote starter (shop installed after market) is interfering with the transmission control module. I contacted the installer of the starter and he says it is not possible, but I know something is wrong... Now, I can't get it to act up and the idiot lights are gone. I need to rely on my vehicle and can't afford to be stranded somewhere. I feel it would be pointless to take the car to the installer, since the warning lights are gone and there are no shifting issues now.
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I intended to purchase a 1997 F150 4x4 today and found that the manual transfer case lever will not move at all. I have read the manual and it seems simple to move from 2H to 4H (at stop of up to 55mph). No movement in the lever at all. Owner said he never uses it and has no idea what is wrong.
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2005 V8, 25k miles. This morning I started the car and heard a clicking noise in the dash right behind the keyhole. It was intermittent and sounded like a cricket as I was driving. It was not too loud, a few db less than a turn signal click. Every few seconds, the MFI message said "Place lever in P position" ... Nothing else doing anything abnormal. Car otherwise sounds and drives fine. The 4WD knob was in high for normal driving.
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I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car that has an intermittent vibration that can be felt when seating in the car and you move the gear shift lever to D for drive. The car has 141,000 miles. It is an automatic transmission. The vibration cannot be felt when touching the steering wheel. What could be causing the vibration?
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What does it mean when the PRND2 area all illuminated at the same time? Normally only the gear selected will be illuminated, but yesteday I got a solid bar illuminating all the gear selections. Couldn't find any reference to it in the manual. Shut the car off and restarted and the problem went away.
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My girlfriend now encountered a brake problem twice: In those situations she needed to brake but the pedal was really stiff, did hardly move and the car did not brake. Only long hard pushing finally succeeded. The second time she nearly got into an accident because of this so we took the car to the dealer then who found nothing and said the brakes are ok. I drove the car the first 5k miles and never had such a problem.
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I have a 96 ranger 4.0L shift lever was very sloppy and one of the torq bolt fell on the floor I used loc tite and tightened them up with no problem put everything back together and now it wont start. I think I checked everything even replaced the neutral safety switch, adjusted the tranny cable, checked fuses and switched around the relays maybe an ignition switch? I am running out of stuff to troubleshoot.
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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I have a 2007 Touring Edition PT Chrysler Cruiser which was just a few days ago repaired because of damage under the front of the car. Front bumper, ouside and inside grills, all housings and connecdtions in the front area were replaced, including air conditioning mechanisms. Received car on Monday, Friday evening, it wouldn't start. Just made a tet tet tet or clicky kind of noise, no turning over of engine, then there was no noise ... just wouldn't start. Got jump, still wouldn't start until the third cycle that peddle was pressed. Now I'm finding that the longer I let the car idle, the more likely it will be to start after more than two hours of non-use. Had all electrical circuitry checked ... battery's 100 percent, alternator is working fine, but it's still not starting.
Car's gear shift button at top of lever is also sticking when I put it in park to turn the car off. Have to pull the top button up to get the key out. This was happening before car was repaired underneath front. Talked to warranty person, and he felt that maybe the ignition starter switch (if that's what's wrong) and sticking gear shift may have something to do with each other. Since car is actually starting after being run, maybe it's not the starter switch. I'd hate to get it repaired if that's not what it is. Thinking about having a Chrysler dealership do a diagnostic test on it to pinpoint exactly what is going on.
What's happening? Why is my car cutting not starting in selective situations after not having been idled for a couple hours or more?
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My Daughter owns a 2000 Camry. It has a very annoying habit of not starting when it is warm (think driving to the gas station, turning the car off to fill it and then it doesn't start again). We have tried new solenoids, a new starter and several other tweaks but nothing seems to fix the problem. Recently she discovered if she jiggles the gear shift lever (it's an automatic) it will start. So, obviously she gear shift lever is not finding Park or Neutral so that it can be in position to start. She has experimented with this concept and it appears to be the only thing that consistently solves the starting issue. What would we have to fix in the gear shift lever, or elsewhere, to fix this problem?
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I think the gear shift lever is loose and so I get a no start every day or two. I remembered seeing somewhere here that there was a way to tighten up the grearshift lever to fix this problem. I did a search to no avail.
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Is this a bug? I hit the start button, everything comes on, put on my seatbelt, etc... then I shift into reverse (out of park) and it says I must start in park. But it's already started. I then have to hit the start button to turn everything off, then hit it again to turn anything on. How to avoid this?
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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My trailblazer will not move in reverse , and will barely move forward, i checked transmission fluid hot and it's not even on the dipstick but when it was cold. it was?? Do I add more or what?..
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I'm still thinking about buying a 2010 Prius. I'd like to know: Suppose I want to, in the morning, move the car from my usual parking spot to another area of the apt. building's parking lot until I leave for work later on. So I would back up a few feet, then slowly drive about 150 feet (at most) to another parking spot. When I press the Power button, does that automatically start the engine (ICE), or can I move the car all in EV mode?
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