Tiguan :: Vehicle Chirps In Rains With Windows Down
Apr 20, 2012
We bought our used 2009 Tiguan TDI 4motion AWD with electronic transmission and auto hold (whatever that is) when it was still under warranty. We are second owner of this car sold in the Dominican Republic, but it was build in Germany. Having done some research online, we know a bit more about the car, but it has a Spanish owner's manual so we are still learning......Love the car; fabulous milage and pickup especially in the mountains here. Perfect for this island of potholes and variable road conditions too.
Anyway, I didn't think it had a "car alarm" of any kind. Nothing on the key fob to turn it on or off and no "panic button". BUT it apparently has one! This one goes off when the car windows are down and it starts to rain! It's a cute little mildish squeak or chirp! We do have rain sensors for the wipers, so I assume that's related.
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My 1999 Saturn SL2 has had issues with its security system for years. It "chirps" intermittently, sometimes to the point of killing the battery. I've taken to unplugging the battery when I won't be using it for a few days so that the chirping doesn't get out of control. Often I'm not able to start the car right away, because the security system has been activated somehow. When this happens I have to unlock and lock the doors until the car starts. I used to be able to improve this by using the keyless entry system, but this very recently stopped working, even though the batteries are new. The security came with the car, and was definitely not installed after market.
My car has also suffered from water damage for a long time. The trunk initially was leaking. Since then the sunroof, drivers side window and rear window have all become leaky. I have fixed those with caulking, but nobody has been able to fix the trunk leak. (really quite significant; when I lived in Portland I sometimes had to siphon out several inches of water from the trunk). My theory is that the electric system might have water damage, but I've brought the car to several mechanics, including electrical specialists, and nobody has had any answers.
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For what it's worth I found a gent locally who has the Vag-Com setup on his laptop and we were able to get the windows and sunroof programmed to open and close when holding the lock/unlock buttons on the remote.
The article we followed is here: [URL] .....
He had to do this the long way with the long code as my '11 Tiguan wouldn't take the programming from the adaptation menu. A couple of other items to note is that the doors did have to be unlocked for the Vag-Com to be able to read the Central Electronics section of the ECU. When they were locked the software on his laptop alternated between saying too many connections and timing out. Also we had to check then uncheck the Comport Opening Only for Drivers Door Active to get all of the windows to open and close...
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I used VAGCOM to turn on the automatically close windows/ sunroof when rain is sensed...I also checked the box under MFI/ Convenience but cannot get the windows/sunroof to close with rain. How to get this to work?
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My 2010 Tiguan's windows are always fogging on the inside. When backing from garage, when getting in after sitting in a parking lot, temperature and humidity seem to make it worse, but it happens under all kinds of conditions. My Jetta sits right next to the Tiguan, and it rarely fogs up.
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My key died today so I had to pull out my spare. Isn't there a way to make the key control the windows and sunroof with the key? I'm only finding info on how you can make it unlock the drivers door or all. I have a 2010 SEL 4Motion.
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I have a 2012 Tig SEL with 18" wheels with factory 235-50-18 tires and stock suspension. The car rides pretty smooth for the most part, but I also find that it's sensitive to lots of small bumps and the suspension is not as smooth as friends other small SUV's. What do you all think about how the Tig rides overall?
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On my wife's car a 2009 Sonata, the driver's control of the power windows for the right side stopped working last Friday. The window switches operate on all doors, but can't control them from the Driver's door.
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Yesterday my 2013 R-Line started downshifting in a harsh manner. Vehicle has been serviced regularly every 8,000 km in accordance with the VW Maintenance Schedule as outlined in the Owners Manual. It is also completely stock and daily driven (mostly highway).
Today I took it to have it checked out as I suspected the TCU might be the problem. As it turns out they said that the entire Transmission needs to be replaced. I have 108,000 km on the odometer now so the Canadian Warranty has expired (100,000km)
I was absolutely gutted as it seems absurd that an automatic transmission would fail with relatively low mileage. My old MkV GTI with a DSG is still going with over 300,000 km.
This is my second Tiguan in the past 3 years. I have also owned a MkV GTI and also currently own a Mk6 Golf R. I have always been good to all of my VWs(maintenance) and they have always been reliable until now.
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I have a 00 olds intrigue. Just bought a new keyfob and followed directions to program but after I insert the key the 3rd time and release the unlock switch, the 3 chirps never happen. I even tried pulling the bcm pgm fuse but didn't work. Pgm directions are, close dors, insert key turn to on, remove key, hold driver unlock button in unlock position while inserting and removing key 3x but don't turn ignition, leave in on 3rd time and let go of lock, then you should hear 3 chirps, after chirps press and hold keyfob lock & unlock together x 14 seconds then you will hear another chirp. I never get the first 3 chirps or anything after.
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My 2003 Ford Ranger XLT FFV V6 has been chirping when I accelerate, generally louder the quicker I accelerate. It stops when I am not touching the gas pedal (coasting). It does not chirp in reverse.
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS. Several times in the middle of the night the alarm that sounds when the door is locked just starts chirping randomly. Why that is?
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1998 Isuzu Oasis ... I hear a chirping noise that becomes more frequent and high pitched as the car speeds up until about 20 mph then I can't hear it any more.A few weird things: goes away when I apply the breaks; does not begin until I've been driving about 10 minutes; does not happen in reverse.Had it to the shop twice. First time they ground the break rotor. No change. Second time greased some parts. No change.
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For those of you with more experience with the Hymotion pack than I:
1) What does it mean when the car "chirps?" It seems like I get 3 or 4 chirps on occasion, with each chirp itself being a rapid succession of 3 individual chirps? I assume it is something to do with the Hymotion pack because I never heard them before the pack was installed.
2) Under light acceleration, say 1 mph/sec, when the engine is just barely contributing to acceleration, at around 31mph (+/-) the engine stops putting out power (the arrows from the engine disappear), the car noticeably hesitates when the engine drops out, I get 3 or 4 chirps, then the engine comes back "online" about a second or two later and all is well. Under normal (i.e. faster) rates of acceleration, this does not happen.
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When I get near the driver's door on my 2008 Prius in attempt to unlock the door, nothing happens. However, when I get near the passenger door or the rear hatch, they will both open but the car chirps 5 times. The driver's door remains locked. It's not the battery in the key FOB, because if it was, no doors would open unless I remove the key from the FOB and physically open the door the "traditional" way.
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About 10 days ago following a heavy rain, I went to start my truck. It made a series of clicks and chirps, and acted like there was no power. Like dead battery or something. After fiddling get with the key and trying to figure the issues, all the sudden started normal door chimes....and truck started...no issues after that for several days.
Had another rain storm...same issues only this time took longer to get it to act normal. Once it did....no problems till today. This time wasn't a big rain...still acting weird. Battery's have power. ..it's not a battery or alternator issue I'm sure. Seems like a grounding issue if I had to guess....but can not tell where...or if that's really it.? No codes or lights once it acts normal.
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I have a 1974 Mercedes 280 C. Two of the power windows no longer work...the driver rear (stuck down) and the passenger front (stuck up). The problem started with middle console switches...the right bank (passenger controls) the small chrome surrounding piece popped off and caused the switches to get stuck then fall apart. I was trying to put them back together and got a spark...ooops car was on and i was using metal tweezers...then the rear driver side no longer worked??? others work. Do the switches need to be replaced or is it a bigger electrical problem. Checked fuses...all fine.
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My Saturn Ion Quad leaks bad when it rains. GM did something a couple of years ago but that didn't last.
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I have two Camrys, A 1993 and 2001. Both cars have 4 cylinder and automatic transmissions. When ever it rains heavy and I am on a highway or fast moving road 45 mph or better. I hit a groove on the road that splashes water under my car. Then I get a rumble from underneath my car as I drive the rumble gets less and less as to water got wet seems to be drying out. Until I hit another groove and splash water under my car again. Both of my cars do this. Is it the cat getting wet (if not what is it then) and if so what can be done to correct this.
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Do the wet boots make a clicking/rubbing type noise when turning on your car? It happen on my 2012 GTI, but only when it rains. It's really loud when I turn inside a parking garage. It's definitely not the joint itself, but rather is the rubber boot sticking to itself and releasing on the compressed side of the boot during the turn. No other car of mine has made this type of noise, even those with cheap Chinese aftermarket axles.
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My 01 Elantra GLS sputters whenever it rains. Once the car warms up it runs normal again.
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