Tiguan :: TCS Starts Flashing Wasn't On Gas While Recovering
Nov 3, 2011
So I finally got to drive my Tig 4Mo in the snow for the first time and I had some really interesting experiences. On 4 separate occasions the rear end decided to just break loose on me!
The first time I was going downhill and I had the car in auto stick and kept it in 2nd so I wouldn't have to use the brakes and im rolling along the rear starts swinging left! I counter and recover and thought ok well maybe auto stick isn't good in the snow. So I keep it in "D" for the rest of the drive and I'm chugging along no faster than 25 mph on a flat and there she goes again to the right this time... I let off the gas and counter again this time I notice the TCS start flashing as I'm recovering...
Its weird cause I wasn't on the gas anymore unlike with my 01 jetta which would only flash if I was actually accelerating....so this happens 2 more times along the way. Every time it happend I wasn't on the gas hard and I was able to recover but I'm extremely confused as to why this would EVER happen. I've driven many awd cars before in the snow and NEVER has the rear just jumped out on me without me REALLY trying to break the rear loose and it usually required a sharp turn of the wheel to do so. I was driving straight as an arrow every time she broke loose and I was barely on the gas (and not even on the gas the first time). Am I going crazy or is the something wrong with my Tig?
On a side note my TPM light is on (but all tires are fine) maybe this is bugging the computer out or something?
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Last week while on the highway I noticed my AC was not blowing cold. It was set to the lowest temperature and at the lowest fan setting. The air had gone from cold to room temperature and the AC button light was flashing/blinking.
I pressed the button, it lit up solid and it started blowing cold again. Two minutes later the air went back to room temperature and the light was flashing again.
It worked fine for a few days and then it happened again Saturday. I noticed the air wasn't coming out cold and see that the AC button is blinking. I tap it solid and it starts blowing cold again only this time it stayed cold for the rest of the 20 minute drive. What could be going on here?
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My truck started running a little rough so I replaced plugs, wires (looks like a rat may have nibbled them in places), cap and rotor. The truck idles smoother now but there had been kind of a lurching, almost as though it was bogging down then recovering prior to replacing the parts I have done. Now the issue seems worse, if anything. It seems to be either progressive. If I try to drive the truck like this, it's OK once it's going, though it still sort of hesitates periodically. Getting it going, however, is an exercise in frustration.
It's got virtually no power at all and isn't until it surges forward (recovering?) that it goes at all. I realize this may not be the best description but it's about all I can describe it as. The other oddity is it seems intermittent. Sometimes it'll run flawlessly after warming up, others it doesn't. Today, it ran perfectly for 30 to 40 seconds after first starting it to move between parking spots then it began while driving it. I'm concerned about driving as I don't want to cause damage to the engine and also, it's annoying a heck!
The truck's a 1989 Dodge D100 (not D150 as below; why no D100 option?) with the 318, AT and RWD only with about 225,000 miles on it. Historically, it runs without any issues whatsoever, starts instantly every time I ask it to (even now) and overall is great mechanically. (Ugly as heck but its' a truck!) The only issue I've had with it is recently, the coolant overflow hose came off right by the cap and, apparently, I lost enough coolant to overheat. I noticed the temp gauge registering hot and as I pulled over I got quite a cloud of steam.
It must have heated enough to hit the flash point, I guess. This happened on the freeway but I stopped IMMEDIATELY and it was fine once I put the hose back on and got coolant in it. The engine didn't stall or act up, make noises, etc. That was a month or so ago now. Aside from that and needing the brakes done recently (can't imagine that could be related but who knows) the truck hasn't showed any issues at all. Someone mentioned this could be the Idle Air Control motor but my reading suggests that'd only affect me at idle. Am I mistaken or is there something else I should be looking at?
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I have a 2010 Tiguan Wolfsburg 4Motion. A few weeks ago I swapped all the interior + License bulbs to LEDs. They were suppose to be error free but found out they were not since the map lights would flicker on and off even in the off position.
Removed all the bulbs and replaced them with the OEM incandescent ones and still the same issue. The bulbs in the map lights would flicker on an off. How I can fix?
Already took the Tiguan to the dealer and they scanned it for codes and nothing. Of course when I was there the lights worked perfectly fine.
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So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
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We got a new 2016 Tiguan recently and it's a good car but since mile 0 it's had an issue where if you run the AC cold for a few minutes, and then just turn off the AC (but keep the fan on) the car starts to smell pretty bad within 3-5 minutes. I'm talking the smelly feet, cheesy aroma stuff.
The hotter it is outside the more this accentuates. I used to have a 2012 GTI that would do that every now and then, especially at the start of the Spring but it would quickly go away after the first few days or some Lysol.
I assume this car was parked outside the dealership for many months so that may have caused it. I've taken it back to the dealer twice, first time they said they ran a full deodorization, whatever that means, and second time they said they couldn't find anything wrong.
I looked at the air cabin filter, looks brand new, only strange thing was the cover panel under the glovebox was missing, maybe from when they replaced the filter after my complaints. Car is sitting at 1400 miles now, if anything the smell is now worse and I'm taking it back to the dealership for a 3rd time tomorrow morning...
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Today was the worst weather ever since the Tiguan left the factory, it was -10˚C and it was parked outside.
When I turned the car on, the coolant light was flashing with a beeping sound. The indicator was acting normally and it stopped in the middle as usual when I drove about 8KM.
I then stopped and turned the car OFF and then ON after a few minutes and it was gone.
I searched and many people said something about topping up the coolant fluid. To me, this doesn't make sense because it only happened to them and I when the weather was cold.
Is there anything to worry about? the car is still new with 12,xxxKM.
Here is an image ...
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Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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So about 2k miles ago I went to start my tiguan (cold start) and it starts to idle very rough, barely keeps itself from stalling so I take it to the dealer the next day and they tell me the car needs carbon cleaning and a rear main seal and wanted about $2500 to do all this. I declined the service since it was a lot of money to just drop then and there. I am wondering/worried there are other issues along with the rear seal leaking or if its just something else causing the issue. I looked under the car and most of the bottom of the motor is soaked in oil. I have not done the auto trans service on the car and was wondering if that could have had anything to do with the leak. The other thing about it is once the car gets up to temp it runs totally fine. AND once in a while it will start up fine, no rough idle. That probably happens about 20% of the time (I do at least 4 starts throughout the day). The car current has 92k miles on it. What it could be/what I should do?
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Started with trouble starting right after a fill up. Right before I was to replace the evap purge valve, I filled up and on my way home, the MIL starts flashing and the car starts to misfire significantly. I replaced the purge valve, but no change in performance (though my car now started up right away after filling it up!). I would drive the car and it would misfire while idling at a light, backing up out of my driveway, accelerating on flat and inclined roads, etc. Codes were 300, 301, 303, and 337 (misfire, misfire, misfire, crankshaft position sensor low voltage)
So, I replace the crankshaft sensor with OEM (this is my 3rd one and this sensor going bad has caused different symptoms each time. First my car would cut out and die while turning, second it would not allow the car to start, and now presumably rough idle). Now the car starts up with less cranking, but still runs rough and misfires (only 301 this time).
So, next I replace the plugs with NGK V's gapped at .044. Better, but not perfect. I noted that the plug in cylinder 1 was darker than the rest.
I read on thread here about regapping to .035, so I tried that. Again, I noted that cylinder 1 plug is slightly darker, while 2-4 have a slight white coating. After the regap, runs great, no misfires, smooth acceleration, perfect...for 24 hours.
On day 2 I start to feel a slight misfire going up a hill, and sometimes at a red light or accelerating from a stop...but not all the time.
Now its day 3 and similar to day 2. Not since I regapped the plugs has the MIL been on, so the misfires are hard enough to feel, but not enough to trigger the MIL.
Not sure where to go next. The coil packs were replaced last year (35,000 miles ago). The car has 137,000 miles on it.
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Ok. Im going to keep this as short as possible. I bought my 05 passat 1.8t AWM TIP used in 09 with 44k
At around 90k I started getting a Random misfire only at idle. And it would be a different cylinder, not always the same would come back after clearing. The RPMs would be very low like around 840. And i think it should be around 920-960. That seems to be one of the main issues. Everything on the car is stock.
So basically, If my CEL starts flashing, and I clear it, I could drive a million miles with no misfires, but as soon as it starts to idle they come back ( I do have vag-com) and know how to use it for basic functions.
This is what has been done:
July 2011:
Engine rebuild (bad piston rings due to clogged cat converter)
Timing belt Kit (Timing was off 5 degrees!!!)
brand new turbo KO3, and Oil feed line
DV
N75 valve
Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Fuel Pressure regulator
MAF sensor
ECU swapped out (old ECU would not go through all steps for Throttle body alignment)
So, after all this and 3 weeks later, I get the car back and it ran great the whole way home. Put it in park waited 5 seconds, and the random misfires came back. So it went back to the shop the next day.
September 2011
These things were done:
Crank Position sensor
Cam position sensor
Compression test ( to make sure he didn't make a mistake while rebuilding motor) Results were Perfect
Leakdown test
Map sensor
Another MAF
2 O2 sensors
Upgraded DV
Fuel injectors
Removed engine wiring harness and OHMed every single wire. Nothing wrong
OEM Coilpacks
3 sets of copper plugs
Throttle body was swapped with 2 others from known working cars.
Trans pan replaced fluid flushed and new trans filter
I have heard this is a fairly common thing on the B5.5 models...
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The OD OFF light starts flashing by itself and I can't get it to go out. Everytime it does this, the car is sluggish, won't pull very good at stop signs and kicks hard when down shifts. Thought it was weather related but it doesn't matter what the temp. is. Eventually it will go out by itself and everything is fine.
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Okay....I have an 01 blazer 6 cylinder 4.3. For a while it was missing fairly bad until I had the distributor replaced and the problem went away for about 2 months. Now it seems to have the same problem again so I am wondering if that wasn't the real problem. Here is what is going on. The tac needle bounces and it feels like the engine is misfiring. When I am driving on the highway sometimes the CEL starts flashing. Sometimes it stops and sometimes it doesn't. Plus now it feels like when it changes gears it's lurching. It only does that sometimes. The odd part is there seems to be no distinguishable pattern to the lurching. I think the misfire could be just the timing needs to be adjusted.
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My A/C light starts flashing after about 30 minutes of use. The A/C is still cold while it's running, but it warms up when the light starts blinking.
At this point I'm planning on replacing the clutch assembly. How far apart do I need to take the car so I can reach the clutch? Is there something else I can test to see if the compressor is on its last legs, before I put money into the clutch?
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I have a 2006 GX 470, the immobilizer light is flashing but car starts and drives with no problem. How to turn off or reset this light?
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I can't figure out what my HV range is once the gas light starts flashing. The first time it came on, I filled up pretty quickly but the car only took 8 gallons. I know the tank holds 10.6. There has to be a range meter somewhere that I'm missing so I'm not running straight to the gas station as soon as the light starts flashing.
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My 99 2.0 jetta tends to flash the temperature light on cold starts and when the cars running for a while and im not moving (traffic) the light flashes and starts to overheat. Whats the problem? The previous owner had changed the radiator begire i bought it but can it. I need a new radiator fan or is it my thermostat?
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My car horn starts honking and the lights start flashing, spontaneously. The neighbors are going to kill me if I don't die of sleep deprivation first. The problem started a few minutes after 6 a.m. yesterday, and stopped when I turned the car on I left the car running in the driveway (illegally) and then cut it off after about 30 minutes, and all was quiet until around 8:45 a.m., when it started again. The only way I can get it to stop is to press the UNLOCK button on the car's remote; but that doesn't make it quit for good, sometimes only makes it quit for a few seconds.
Anyway, I drove the car to work and it was nice and quiet all day. (I went by the mechanic's on the way to work and had to set an appt. for Monday but I don't think I can stand it until then. This morning the honking/flashing began at 1:52 a.m. I pushed the remote. It stopped until 2:08. It kind of went like that until I finally started up the car. It is now emitting carbon and I am a zombie. What can I disable or override until a mechanic can take care of this? Is it a mechanical problem? A goofed-up sensor? Is this tied to a computer chip problem?
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I have a 20th anni GTI. I was driving down the road about a week ago going about 50 in 5th gear. all of a sudden when i go to give it gas my car starts lagging and the check engine light starts flashing on and off. I used a check engine light tester to figure out the possible problems and found that cylinder 2 misfired.
Spark plugs could have been the problem so i replace them. Nothing changed. so then i thought it could be one of the coils so i switch 1 and 2 aroud to see if there was a misfire on 1 now. still cylinder 2 misfired. I am starting to thnk it may be my catalytic converter. There's a funny spell coming from my exhaust. Like fire crackers or rotten eggs maybe.
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So driving the other day and tow haul starts flashing. I come to a stop sign and goto take off and it barley takes off. It will barley roll if my foot is off the pedal sometimes wont even roll. Also won't shift into 6th. Once it gets rolling though say till about 25 it's fine. Just doesn't wanna take off? I scanned the trans but got no codes. And here are some pressures and stuff but I don't know what I'm looking for with the trans. This was all done in park.
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I have a 2007 F150 Lariat with a 5.4 L engine. Bought it 6 weeks ago from the original owner. Has 50,000 miles on it. He had a Ford command start installed when it was new, and received a new key FOB at that time. When I drive the vehicle, sometimes the horn will start blowing and the lights start flashing which to me, indicates the trucks security alarm is activated. The only way to make it stop, is to hit the unlock button on the key FOB. It also does it sometimes when it's not running and I open a door. Previous owner had same problem so he disconnected the horn!!?!
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