Tiguan :: Stutter And Buck On Light And Hard Acceleration
Dec 14, 2015
About two months ago, my EPC light came on and my check engine light started flashing while I was driving home from work. Never heard of/saw that EPC light before. The car started to stutter and buck really bad when trying to accelerate (on light and hard acceleration). Also, when sitting idle (like at a red light or stop sign) the car would still buck but not as bad as when driving. The only time the car doesn't buck is when I am cruising, like after I just get done pressing on the gas and the car is coasting basically. I call the mechanic the next day and he tells me right off the bat, it sounds like a Crankshaft Position Sensor and to drop it off so he can look at it. So I drop it off, he tells me he believes it is just a bad coil on cylinder 1, so he swapped it out and gave me an oil change (it was due for one). Picked my car up on a Wednesday, it seemed fine. Then on a Saturday same issues and same warning lights came back on. So I had it scanned at Autozone, misfire on cylinder 1 and 3, random cylinder misfire and multiple cylinder misfire, so I call him and tell him, he said just bring it back he'll swap it out. I changed the coils myself since it only takes 10 mins. The car seemed fine for about a month. Then two weeks ago, all of the same issues are back and same warning lights.
Had issues with the EPC light? Also, is any truth that the Crankshaft Position Sensor can be related to this or was the mechanic completely wrong? Read another post by someone else and there was talk of carbon buildup. My friend is mechanic and said that he thinks it might be a fuel related issue or electrical, since the issues keep coming back. Also, it misfires more when the heat is on and seems like the interior lights flicker a little when it's misfiring at idle, it's very subtle, definitely notice it so I don't know if it's electrical, fuel related, carbon build up or what.
-February of 2014, I had a fuel pump replaced by the dealer (it was for a recall)
-Back in January 2015, I had the ignition coils and spark plugs replaced by a friend (who is a mechanic).
-In July I had the lifters replaced (by the same mechanic I called)
-Been up to date with oil changes
-Use plus gas from Citgo
Going to drop it off at the dealership tomorrow.
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I have a 2009 Tig with the APR flash. I had the flash done in 2010 in Edmonton. I have enjoyed it for the last two years. BUT this summer while on vacation the car developed a slight stutter on acceleration. When i reset the computer to stock the stutter goes away. What is failing or how I can repeat it with the stock setting so that the dealer can fix it and I can turn the APR tune back on.
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Had my 09 Tiguan now for 3 months and I'm noticing that during cold weather in the mornings as I try to accelerate or keep a constant speed/rom there is a jerkiness/stutter to the vehicle. It doesn't seem smooth if I go I faster then it's not really felt.
This is felt right around 60km/hr.. Or slower.
Doing some research appears that this could be the fuel injectors - those were just done at the dealer under recall about 7montha ago or so by the PO. The Tiguan has 147k KM on it.
What could be a possible cause for this? I also see that seafoam could clean the carbon build up perhaps?
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I have a 2007 LS460L. Bought it new and have loved it dearly for 6 years now. It now has 70k miles and is under an extended warranty purchased at 50k miles. As a first year model it has had a ton of TSBs done on it.
The problem i have had as long as i can remember is a lag or stutter during medium to hard acceleration. It feels a little like the old turbo lag or like a very mild stutter. It has had the transmission adjusted, had the service manager driver it for a week to try and capture on computer etc. But nothing has fixed it. At times it feels like if you watch the tachometer during these moments you can actually see a bounce (I may be imagining).
I have almost given up and just lived with it. We have tried tranny, type of oil, software tweaks etc.
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06 250 5.4 40k on it, usually when cold and accelerating engine will misfire and stutter and then continue accelerating. The wrench light will flash sometimes but it wont store a code. This used to be vague in occurrence but has now started to be more a common occurrence even when up to normal operating temps.It seems only to misfire /stutter on hard acceleration or towing/hauling heavy loads. The only answer I got from a mech would be to do a computer reflash, not sure why /how this would fix whats going on.
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My wife's 2009 Tiguan SEL has quit on her several times over the last several weeks. Each time it has happened as she was leaving a store parking lot--moderately warm, no hard acceleration. She says battery light is lit on the instrument panel when this happens. Nothing else. She says it will not turn over, but that might be because she doesn't put it back in park before trying to restart. She waits a few minutes and it starts with no problem.
I've had into the dealer and another shop I use periodically. Computer had codes for misfire, faulty ignition switch, flap stuck open in intake, and fuel pressure. Ignition switch, intake, plugs, and air filter were replaced. Cleaned carbon from the valves. Have run one tank of fuel system cleaner through.
I see a few other posts on fuel pressure or pump issues. Has this resolved with a new fuel pump? From what I understand, it's a pretty expensive repair since there are two and they sit in the tanks.
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Recently the fuse for the ECU was pulled. From what I have read it reset the computer. Since this happened the car will buck or hesitate during acceleration. What is a good starting point to resolving this issue.
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My fiance is having issues with her car. It seems under acceleration to buck and lose power. I know more about 1.8t's but hers is the v6.
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I am trying to trace down an issue with my 2009 Tiguan, auto. Its in regards to a stutter I notice in the vehicle at a certain speed/rpm. Almost appears if it doesn't want to shift and unless you really give it. The car certainly still has the power and all, this is also more noticeable on colder days. Today I stopped by the dealer where the vehicle was originally purchased as I am the 2nd owner and they provided me a complete print out of all the service history of the vehicle (quite informative).
Reading through it I found that the not even 6000 km the intake manifold was replaced under warranty they scanned for error P0215. This was on August 2014. They also replaced the injectors during this service.
And then also back in Dec. 2010, 70000km ago they replaced the manifold runner assembly and manifold for the first time.. Appears that they replaced the manifold on this car twice now.. Could this be my cause for the stutter?
Hard to believe that the same part would be getting replaced on a car within 60000km twice..
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My Tiguan runs really well for the most part. I do have a slight issue that happens above 2200 RPM or so that seems to be getting worse as time passes. With little effort on flat road, the car runs flawlessly. Up a slight incline or light grade on the freeway it gets an intermittent misfire or stumbles periodically (getting more frequent). It smooths out and has a ton of power with heavier acceleration.
It doesn't always happen (though more often than not lately), doesn't throw a code, ambient temp doesn't effect it, happens rain or shine and engine temp doesn't change it. The only code I get from time to time is P2181 (coolant performance), but I can't see that being the issue and it stays happy right around 190ish. Gas mileage is not effected, getting around 27-28 MPG average. Using 91 octane Shell gas. I did a Seafoam induction cleaning since it started happening and Seafoam in the tank with no change. Seems to happen in all gears. if I stay below 2200 RPM it never occurs. The car has about 68,000 miles on it.
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Noticed a light rattling noise during acceleration? It only seems to do it at lower rpms then stops? I feel like I remember reading something about the wastegate causing this? but I don't remember where i saw that?
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I have a 2003 impala I just bought and it has an intermittent problem. Sometimes when I step on the gas the motor will 'slam'---kinda like if the motor mounts were bad but they look good and it doesn't always do this. Also, if I hit the gas pedal hard and then almost as quickly let off the gas pedal I get the same effect--shutter/slam. I suspect the mounts but they look fine. If I keep on the gas all gears shift very smoothly. Gear shift is smooth thru all gears if I floor it or go slowly accelerate so it seems not to be the transmission either.
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I have a 2011 Hyundai Sonata limited with 68,000 miles on it. Once the car has been warmed up for awhile and I shift into drive after a stop, the transmission will jerk/buck fairly hard. It only does it while being put into drive and I haven't had any other issues while driving.
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I'm trying to fix a B5 1.8t Passat, it is usually a pretty quick car but recently it has had an issue where it "stutters" when accelerating. Meaning, if you put your foot down, it doesn't "take off" right away (you can't get the wheels to squeal) (not that I would try to do that normally). I know how the car used to feel, so it's not turbo lag or the ABS kicking in. It seems to behave normally after the initial stutter, it's most noticeable in 1st gear. I replaced the gas and air filters for fun, but no dice. No codes on VCDS shareware.
I can think of a few theories based on searches, but am not sure how to proceed;
- Plugged cat: expensive, not sure how to diagnose positively to avoid throwing money.
- Turbo issue? Wanted to hook up a gauge to see if the turbo is boosting correctly. Need to find a place to plug in.
- Clutch? Unlikely as the RPMs don't jump, and in third it doesn't slip. The acceleration makes it feel like something is slipping though
- ABS misbehaving? Light isn't showing up though.
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I've seen the gods of the diesel engine do some amazing things on these forums, so after a year of pulling my hair out, I've signed up to try this myself.
This time least year,I bought a 2004.5 6.0L F-250 with 196k on it to haul around the state for my new business. At this time, I knew nothing about diesel engines AT ALL WHATSOEVER, but I've never been afraid to tackle anything and mechanics are not totally foreign to me. Not to mention, I was hoping everything might just go peach-ily for at least a couple years. (for what it's worth, My dad and his family are mostly shade tree mechanics and I'm a power plant operator so mechanical concepts are not totally foreign to me, just never had a diesel before)
To begin, I purchased the truck and everything was fine for about 2 weeks. Then abruptly one morning I noticed a couple of hefty surges on the way to work. Then, on the way home I thought all was well until about half way home, it did it again! as I was pulling up, it galloped once I pulled my foot off the pedal. like ba-DA-DA-DA-da-da-da-da-da-da-DA-DA-DA-DA-DA-da-da-__ and then STALL! Shaking with concern over potentially an awful purchase, I turned the truck back on only to find... that it's fine?!?? No problems for the next two days and then it happened again. then good for a week, then again. then good for 2 weeks, then again. so then I bought auto enginuity and an edge insight to do some troubleshooting. Let that sink in as I explain it's history a bit.
-All but one injector is ford remanufactured the other is stock (was never told which one)
-replaced head gasket with another OEM
-ARP Head Studs
-EGR delete
-HPOP AND STC fitting both replaced
-FICM replaced
-Oil cooler replaced 50k ago
-ICP and pig tail replaced right before my purchase
- Has been through roughly a handful of ICP's since I've had it (I'll explain)
-I've cleaned the EBP tube a lot and updated it to the newer ford sensor with the flare fitting
-I use Rotella T6 5W40 and CAT ELC-1 Coolant.
-Deltas are under 10 at normal driving
-I typically drive under 2200 rpm until warm then like a banshee at operating temps.
Now one year later, its not fixed, but I feel like I'm close.
The DTC's I have seen are ICP sensor circuit intermittent (I think po2884) and Power Blance contribution failure from cylinders #2 #7 and #8 but never at the same time.
Every time I replace the ICP, it will be problem free for about 6 weeks and then it will return full force (surging and galloping when warm about 50% of the time)
During a possession I see the following:
*Cylinder power contribution test yields no issues at idle or when cold. when "possessed", the whole baseline across all cylinders goes up and all cylinders dip and return at random. none singled out
*ICP voltage fluctuating from ~.6v to 1v (.24 @koeo) *Also during a surge*
*ICP PSI dancing up and down ~600 to 900psi (0.0 @koeo and ~500 at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*IPR% bumps up and down ~25% to 30% (15%@ koeo and 23% at normal warm idle) *Also during a surge*
*FICM Voltage anywhere between 47.5v and 49v
*EBP is normally 15-20 psi
*Boost is 1-7 normal and is not affected by "possession"
These numbers have taken a long time to get since it will only be possessed for about 3-10 seconds at a time and then will disappear for days. The stall has only happened about 5 total times in a year. The surging is much more frequent. I usually get a buck or 2 on any given trip that is longer than a half hour but NOT IMMEDIATELY AFTER AN ICP REPLACEMENT.
On one occasion, I noticed that the ICP PSI actually tanked to about 350 right before the IPR went from 25% to 40% right before a posession. I was driving about 35mph through town at the time.
Here's my thoughts...
- Did that one occasion clue me in to an intermittent HPO system leak causing the truck to briefly over-compensate by spiking the IPR?
- Is my ICP pig tail jobby done incorrectly? If there was a short, wouldn't I see the volts drop to 0? I have another one and will replace to rule it out.
- I have yet to test my fuel pressure, but I figured if it was low, I would have lost injectors by now. (I replace filters probably too often but next empty tank, I'm dropping it and checking the screen and strainers)
I should also mention that I have buzz tested the injectors and I can hear each one clear as day, and that for REALLY long trips, it actually returns to normal. In other words, my window of death is between 30min and 2hrs of driving; invincible after.
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2005 Prius, 135,000. At 20 MPH on acceleration engine stutters, solution?
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I have noticed a slight stutter in the acceleration when pushing it hard. Seems to be most noticeable 4th gear around 4500-5500 rpm. Is that because I dont have a HPFP? I also notice the fluttery whistle sound that was discussed at length in another thread...doesn't bother me one bit but it seems to coincide the stuttery acceleration. Also, I noticed it upon the very first drive after getting flashed - currently at 2500km.
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I was driving the other day and accelerated in 5th and the car stuttered before finally going- I got the flashing CEL. I figured that the car was misfiring and that a coilpack change was the culprit. All my coilpacks are fine and the sparkplugs look good as well. CEL hasn't come back, but the car just feels like it doesn't want to go right away when if i give it some gas when I'm going about 55-65 MPH.
Other guesses would be there is a fuel cut somewhere and that may be causing it?
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I purchased a 2014 3.6 SEL from a non VW dealer. They may have put regular gas in the car, I feel like it runs weird, feel a delayed throttle response and a little stutter before acceleration? or is it just me?
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Situation 01 Jetta AEG 2.0L codes catalyst below threshold and random misfires.
•found exhaust clogged due up catalyst. It was actually making contact with the rear O2
-replaced cat as an assembly and reset codes with Ross-tech
• start up, idles perfect no hesitation smooth. Road tested it and upon entering freeway ramp at it started stuttering/misfiring
• CEL flashed for cylinder 3 & 4. Inspected wires found #3 lost continuity, installed new wires.
•road tested and same result but only 4 came back. Swap plug with #2 and retested.
• #3 and 4 misfire came back again
- shooting in the dark to identify which way to go with it I tested:
•compression was solid 140
•fuel pressure 35 psi at idle and 45 when snapping the throttle.
-Suspicious spec is 55-72psi
•squeezed the return line to inspect if the Fuel pressure regulator valve possibly leaking excess.
Psi never went higher than 45 at idle and throttle snap to wot
•graphed the tps signal smooth with out drops or glitches up to values of 84 according to toss tech scan tool
•looking at measiring blocks one item that was odd is engine load at idle 99.5%
-swapped parts with known good parts with a good running 2002 Jetta aeg motor.
•MAF -no change
•ignition control module/ coil pack no change
-today ill be checking fuel pressure at the fuel pump and inspect if the fuel filter possibly clogged.
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I have a 2005 Focus 2.0 ZX5 manual. 131,000 miles. I believe this has been an ongoing intermittent issue until now. Occasionally while driving before at 45-75 mph I would sometimes get a stutter like the throttle closed for a split second. Now, after installing a K&N CAI the dang thing is about undriveable. At idle no load the engine will not rev, step on the gas and all I get is a groan, pop pop groan slooooow climb in revs to @ 2000 rpm then quickly up to the fuel cut off. In gear , 1st or 2nd, trying to roll out off idle I get nothing more groan sloooow climb up to 2000 rpm then accelerates normally.
At speed in any gear when RPMs drop below 2000 rpm it will not accelerate no matter how hard I press on pedal. Up above 2000 rpm mostly normal unless I get out of throttle, then I get a bucking sensation from engine. I can pull away from stop if I give lots of revs and slip the clutch....not so good for clutch life...The MIL is on, P0113 IAT high bypass. Cleaned old MAF no difference. Replaced MAF no difference. Got a too rich code also but cannot remember DTC. I have also checked for air leaks after the MAF and it all seems rather buttoned up.
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