So i start my car and it starts easy but after a few seconds it dies. I can get it to keep running by changing the fuel mixture but then it has no throttle and it will die if i try to use the throttle. It is 1985 VW Jetta engine in a 1981 Scirocco
View 2 RepliesI've shipped my R32 back to the UK, the combination of cold and damp weather has taken it's toll on my car. I started it up Saturday and left it ticking over to allow it to warm up before driving it. The car is used to Houston heat, so a few minutes running will allow the oil to warm a little as the weather here is around 40F at the moment. The car ran for 5 or so minutes, then stalled.
The car starts to about 3 seconds, then dies. I have checked VAGCOM, the only fault is a steering wheel sensor (?). It has a full belly of Shell 99 RON fuel and was serviced just before if left the USA in October.
I have had it towed to the local dealer for repair. I have tried disconnecting the battery for 30 mins to reset the car, it didn't make any difference. I have also tried another key in case it's s sync problem.
I have an 04 w12 with 80k miles on it. It will start fine but will not run for more than 10 seconds. As it idles down from startup it settles to about 700 RPM's where it normally does then dies. If u drive it it will start and go into gear fine as u go to pull away it loses all power and dies. I have checked the minor things i know like air filters, oil, tranny juice all appears normal. New batteries less than 3 months ago also.
View 11 Replies2006 ... HV battery changed over 4 months ago and car ran fine until last week when the car just stopped and won't get ready. Before that incident, the vehicle was running fine all day, while he was returning from the days chores in the evening, it just stopped, dashboard all lit up. After a while, the car started again, and he was able to move it away to the side of the road...just about 2 meters and it stopped again.
View 15 RepliesI am working on my father's boss' 2004 Phaeton V8. The car usually sits on the weekends. What it is doing is, it will start and run smooth, but after 15 seconds, on the dot, it stalls and dies. It sounds like it is starving for fuel.
What I have done so far:
LH intake actuator arm found broken, replaced both with "Gruvenparts"
Checked all fuses and relays
LH fuel pump reads 14 volts until the relay kicks it off
Tested fuel pressure-good
Batteries fully charged
LH fuel pump reads 0.7 ohms w/key off
RH fuel pump reads 6.0 M-ohms when first connected and gradually climbs to 31.5 M-ohms
(I assumed this meant RH pump was bad and so I pulled it out and bench-tested. Ran perfect and tested at 0.7 ohms out of the car)
Re-assembled everything to pull the car out of the shop, and wouldn't you know it started and ran like normal.
Road-tested for 2 hours the next day without any problems.
So, I call the customer to pick it up and he says he will be there 2 days later.
I have a 2005 ranger SOHC 4.0 new rebuilt engine It starts then dies after a few seconds then doesn't start at all unless it sets for a few hours or over night and will do same thing. It has 60 psi on fuel rail, good spark I'm starting to think my PCM is causing all this?
View 14 RepliesWent to start this 5.0 TC after it sat idle for a week, and it died within 3-4 seconds. Further attempts resulted in similar response. After some initial checks, I was able to keep the engine running by manually depressing the IAC plunger into the barrel. The engine ran fine as long as I could hold that, but stall immediately after release. Codes: TPS out of range; HEGO HO2S sensor out of range-always lean. Bought a new TPS no change.
Today: With the key "on" and engine off, the fuel pressure is a steady 38psi. There is an air release button on the fuel gauge line and when I pushed that, the gauge pressure dropped to zero and does not come back (until you key off and on again). I removed the IAC from its mount and with the key on--I observed the plunger move inside its body--guessing maybe 1/4 inch. I casually checked all the engine management items I see in books and looked at vacuum hoses and couldn't see anything amiss (also climbed on top of this engine and checked the rear--PCV lines etc.). I removed the fuel regulator vac line and observed no fuel leakage there.
It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
A few days ago, I went to start the car, and it will start, and idle fine for a few seconds, and then begin to run crappy, idle down, and die. I tried starting it, and giving it some accelerator pedal, and it dies. I changed the timing belt, idler pulley, and tensioner this summer, so I'm ruling out a bad timing belt. There is no check engine light, and I replaced the plug wires because when I removed the cover, I noticed one of them was worn in a spot, and the wire shielding inside the rubber insulation was visible.
View 11 RepliesThis is concerning my little brothers truck. It is a 2008 4.2 liter with around 55,000 miles on it.
He drove it to work today, and called me this afternoon saying that the truck starts then dies a few seconds later, and the battery light illuminates. He and a coworker checked the battery and connections....cleaned off corrosion on terminals, battery reads 12.xx volts without a load on it, it is the original though.
As of right now he is changing the fuel filter which hasn't been done yet. I also know of issues with the fuel pump driver module. I remember checking the one on my 2005 back when I owned it. As I recall it causes a no start condition, but would it cause a start then stop condition like this? He will check this when he is done with the filter.
Anything else that we can check in a parking lot to try and at least get it home?
Simple enough the truck starts then after about 30 seconds it bogs down and dies. I am getting these codes.
705 Transmission Range Sensor Out of Position
708 Transmission Range Sensor Circuit High Input
720 Output Speed Sensor Insufficient Input
743 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit
745 Pressure Control Solenoid Malfunction
1747 Electronic Pressure Control Solenoid A- Short Circuit
Sounds to me like the converter it locked up. What do you think? Its a 5.4L
I've got an issue with my 92 2.3 ranger.... sitting at idle for 30 or so seconds it starts to chug and sometimes dies.... I can hit the throttle and its fine for another 30 or so seconds.... while cruising on the freeway after about 30 minutes it starts to cut out badly... let out of throttle for a few seconds and it clears up and drives fine...
Here's the part that has me confused... pulled codes yesterday using a innova scan tool...
koeo were 4, 10, and 538...
koer were 111, 10, 157, 158, 181, 327, 328, and 334....
How does it give me a 111 pass code and then still come up with all the other codes? I am thinking my ecu may be screwed.....
I just replaced the water pump and put it all back together, now it won't run well enough to drive. Checked vacuum system, all sensor connections, hoses, gas cap, changed fuel filter, I can hear the fuel pump kick in, reset system with battery disconnected and have looked at everything I can think of so far.
Now - starts fine, idles about 10 seconds and then begins to idle rough and dies. If I use the throttle I can often keep the idle up, but then backfires or acts like no fuel and again dies. Used fuel cleaner and made sure there was plenty fuel in tank.
I am looking at replacing sensors at this point but which one first?? They get a bit expensive real quick.
'02 Ranger XLT, extended cab, 4X4, 4.0L SOHC, 5-speed manual, 114K miles.
Problem has occurred twice. After extended run time and engine fully heated, when I get home and shut it down, then attempt to restart within a short period of time, the engine starts very briefly, then begins shuddering violently and dies within a few seconds. Re-attempts to start result in a very shuddering attempt to run for a couple seconds, and then it dies. After a couple of re-attempts, it doesn't even attempt to start; just cranks over with no results. Has to sit about 7-8 hours before it will restart.
No OBD II codes; Passed, no codes shown. I purchased a crank position sensor, but haven't installed it yet: just a stab in the dark after hearing other people's experiences with other vehicles.
First occurrence followed a lengthy trip in heavy stop-and-go traffic. Shut it down when I got home, then attempted to re-start after a few minutes to run a short errand. Sat for two days without any re-attempts; then restarted and ran fine on first try a couple days later.
Second occurrence followed a couple hours of hitting yard sales with the neighbor, in which time I did not shut the truck down; just left it idling while we perused the sales, for fear it wouldn't re-start. Reckon it's a good thing I did, 'cause when we got home and I shut it down and attempted to leave again shortly thereafter, it malfunctioned as described.
Retries failed after sitting 4-5 hours, but after eleven hours of sitting, it started right up and ran normally.
I was coming home earlier when the "engine" light came on for about 30 seconds followed by a "epc" light. The thing idled really rough, luckily I was less than a mile from home and managed to get it into the garage for the night. Going to take it to the dealer first thing in the morning to find out what's the deal.
View 4 RepliesI haven't driven the Prius for months. The other day, I needed it and tried to start it up but of course, it was dead. I should have known that would happen but I'm pretty clueless when it comes to these things.
So, I jumped it with another car, making sure not to reverse the polarity by doing it wrong (I think I did okay) and sure enough it started...for about 5 seconds and then died. The car we were using to jump it was on just like the manual said and we pushed it to 2,000 RPM again, just like the manual said. We tried it again and it comes on for about 5 seconds and then goes right back off. We even juiced it for about 3 minutes straight at 2,000 RPM and same result.
The display comes on and the icon with a car and an exclamation mark is red. What should I do? I guess the v12 battery is dead?
Not really sure where to go with this one. Was going to start with the fuel filter but I am not sure where it is at?
View 3 RepliesMy 04 Touareg V-6 will start, but will die about 10 seconds after or if I give it gas. I'm pretty sure it's one of the fuel pumps just not sure which one.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 2010 Tiguan about a month ago. It has about 74,000 miles. Tuesday my wife called me and said the steering locked up. I was out of town so I told her to have it towed home. I drove it today and it was fine until about 5 miles in, the red steering wheel light illuminated on the dash and it started beeping, the steering got VERY heavy. So I headed back home and noticed the engine had a misfire. I pulled it into the garage and put it in park and the engine bucked a few times and finally stalled.
I read a few places where it said a weak battery could cause the power steering failure, so I checked the battery and it showed 12.3 volts. I installed a good battery out of my other car and drove it again. It steered and ran fine for about 10 miles this time. Same thing though, as soon as the red steering wheel light came on, it started misfiring again. Next I cleaned all of the grounds near the battery and drove it again. 10 miles later same thing, red light and misfire.
I have this code for Steering assist:
1 Fault Found:
00003 - Control Module
008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
[Code] .....
There are no engine codes.
My 2001 volvo S60 starts then dies.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 Volvo V70. Sometimes when I start it, it turns over and then dies right away. It may do it once, or it may do it several times, but it will start start eventually. I am bringing it in to the garage next week, but they don't seem to think they will be able to fix it unless it happens while the car is in the garage. Since it doesn't happen every day, I'm worried that they won't be able to fix the problem. If so, why did your car die right after starting?
View 5 Replies