Tiguan :: Stalling When Backing Out Of Parking Spaces / Lurching And Losing Power
Jan 25, 2014
I've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
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My 2003 dodge dakota with 6cyl fi stalls while doing 3 point turns or backing into parking spots. It also recently has a new problem. If I drive the truck for only a few minutes and turn it off I have a hard time getting it started again. It sounds like it wants to start but just barely can't.
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On two occasions, about 18 months apart, my Hyundai Sonata started lurching down the freeway, losing power at approx. 3000rpm and regaining it at about 2500rpm. (I was traveling about 70mph.) The first time I was hauled home and the second time i tried to maintain speed and limped home 40 miles on Hwy 80W outside of Sacramento, CA. AAA mechanics reset computer both times and the first time replaced gasket on accelerator. The second time they reset computer but could not find what caused computer to malfunction.
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I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
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I may have read this on here a time or two before but just noticed our Tig doing it now...with only 816 miles on it!?!? it IS a truly an unnerving, shrill, sound...this will get old and fast! I'd hate to think i need to change the brake pads already, one thing for sure i WILL make mention of this when it goes in for the 90 day "inspection".
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Well, the Tig has developed brake squeal when we're backing out of the garage first thing in the morning. I notice it even more when it is humid outside (I live along the coast in Texas....when is it NOT humid outside?). Anyway, took the Tig in for the 10k mile checkup and oil change (I'm at 9500 miles right now), and I had a small list of things for the service tech to check out. The brakes was one of them. They came back and said that the squealing brakes is just a fact of life with VW. I told him, that was funny, that my 2003 Jetta never had a brake squeal, all the way up to 90k miles. He said that there was nothing they could do about it.
So, my question is.....does any TBS from VW that covers excessive brake squeal in the Tiguans? I thought for sure that they would at least offer to scuff up the pads or rotors, but he said it was normal because of the amount of dust generated by the pads. I also had the tech check oute that occasionally, in the first mile of driving the Tig, the brakes feel like I'm trying to stop a 2 ton truck old style, that is, they don't slow the Tig down until you're almost at the point of locking the wheels, and of course, they couldn't replicate the problem, so, no problem found.
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So a few weeks ago my car stalled when I was backing out of a parking spot. It then continued to stall when I was trying to drive through the parking lot. I chalked it up to being low on gas. When I got on the highway it stopped doing it. Then I filled up with gas and it continued to stall while going from a stop position. There is gas and when I go to shift from Reverse to Drive it stalls out when I push the gas. It is almost as if the fuel is not coming through but if I punch it then it does not stall. I've had a number of car issues in the past and I've never experienced anything like this before.
This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.
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Earlier today our 2012 Tig SEL 4M stalled on me two separate times. Each time I was backing up slowly, when without warning the engine stalled. The only indicator light that illuminated was the battery light. Each time, I was able to easily restart the engine and within seconds I was back on my way. I have a VCDS set-up so I scanned the car when I got home after the second stall.
There were no engine or transmission fault codes in the system.
There were two other fault codes: one in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth and one in Address 4C: Tire Pressure II
Of those, the only one that seems connected is Address: 05 Acc/Start Auth, specifically 1057035 - Antenna for Keyless Entry System: Drivers Side N116F 13 [008] - Open Circuit. It shows as an intermittent fault. My thinking is that the KESSY system ever so briefly looses track of the key transponder (because of the antenna fault), then since the car is in gear it shuts down the engine. Since the fault is intermittent, then it quickly restarts as if nothing happened.
Where the Driver's Side Antenna is located and can its connections be easily checked? Now, pushing this thought further, what happens if this were to occur at speed?? Adding to this, my wife has reported that at times that the keyless entry is a little off, meaning that KESSY won't open the door when she grabs the handle.
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So I've noticed at times when I make a turn or when backing out of a parking space and cranking the wheel I hear a knocking sound. What it is? 2013 F Sport with 37K miles. Under warranty so taking it in either way but just curious on what it could be.
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After turning off the stooooopid inside-cabin reverse gear beep alarm two months ago, I was worried about the silence of my PiP while backing up in crowded parking lots, etc. Searching for a piezo-electric add-on backup beeper audible behind thater than in the PiP, I found this site:
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Ok had my driver side front cv axle replaced. But not when only backing up and turning I hear and feel a popping sound. Happens when I turn left or right while backing out of garage or parking spot.
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2000 F150 Lariat, XC, 2WD, 5.4L, 4R70W
I don't know if this all started right after I got back from towing a 3500# lathe + 2000# trailer back from Texas a couple weeks ago or if there might have been some slight symptoms before. I do know that this really got bad a couple days ago and I haven't driven the truck since then.
So, here's what is happening. I noticed a few days before that when I would back out of a parking space, the truck didn't seem to go right into reverse. It was as if it was in neutral, but as I was reaching to jiggle the gearshift lever, it would engage and I could back out just fine. All forward gears, and shifting, have been fine all along, including lockup. I kind of wondered if the shift linkage had somehow moved and was on the edge of being in the right spot, so I was going to have a look at it one evening soon. Then a couple days ago, I went to back out of a parking spot at work and it wouldn't go anywhere.
Just acted like it was in neutral. Put it in drive and it engaged just fine, then back to reverse and nothing for a few moments before it finally engaged. Then, as I was backing up, it acted like you might expect a limited slip that was not slipping to behave. But, that was right before I put it in drive and went home. After I got home, I tried it out some more and found that in reverse, it just wouldn't go anywhere unless the truck rolled a little bit. I don't know if the rolling really had anything to do with it or not, but the driveway is on a slight incline, so it happened, and then the transmission would engage. But, when it did start to back up, even straight, at first it acted like it was under a load, then when it started to move, it bucked really badly. Put it back in drive and all seems fine.
There are no codes set. Trans fluid is full, and doesn't smell or look bad. I've searched for reverse shudder, and other stuff, and there are threads about the TC, about no reverse at all, and a bunch of other stuff, but nothing like this that I found.
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I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
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I have owned my 2011 Tiguan VW since new. This winter it has developed a stalling problem after a warm start. It has never did this from a cold start. Just after I have been driving, stop for 20min to an hour, come back and start it. What happen is the car starts fine, I put it in drive and start to drive away, when I get about 50 feet, the engine cuts out. The only light on the dash are the battery light. I put it in neutral and it starts right back up. It doesn't do it every time, about every tenth time; just infrequently enough so it catches me off guard every time.
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Have had our Tig for almost a week and it has stalled 5 different times. 4 times while in reverse and 1 time in drive. Took it to a local shop and no engine codes came up. Called my neighbor who is a Mercedes machanic and VW enthusiast, told him about it and he said something about additives being put in gas in the winter and it can cause them to stall. He told me to run a can of Sea Foam through my gas tank to see if that works. I also added some of the Sea Foam to my oil as well. Hopefully this solves the issue
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My mom drives 2012 tiguan. Somehow she engaged parking brake and didn't know how to disengage. So she put the car in drive and pressed gas pedal tiny bit. It seems this did disengage the parking brake but she feels like car started to make more noise. Is she just paranoid?
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I got my 2011 Tiguan today but the manual is being shipped up so I don't have it yet. I got it home (I love it), and I stopped at my mailbox and engaged the parking brake. I had engaged it before and only had to let up the clutch and it would disengage. This time it stalled. I started it again. Pushed the parking brake button down. It would not release. Pulled it up. It would not release. Simultaneously pulled it up and put my foot on the brake, and it released. I know it's gotta be easier than this, but I don't know the trick yet I guess.
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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Just like the title says, I have a 2013 Tiguan. When I park and turn off the Tiguan, I will hear the the parking brake activate and then turn it back off immediately. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen.
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