Tiguan :: Stalled When Backing Up Slowly / Battery Light Illuminated
Jan 2, 2014
Earlier today our 2012 Tig SEL 4M stalled on me two separate times. Each time I was backing up slowly, when without warning the engine stalled. The only indicator light that illuminated was the battery light. Each time, I was able to easily restart the engine and within seconds I was back on my way. I have a VCDS set-up so I scanned the car when I got home after the second stall.
There were no engine or transmission fault codes in the system.
There were two other fault codes: one in Address 05: Acc/Start Auth and one in Address 4C: Tire Pressure II
Of those, the only one that seems connected is Address: 05 Acc/Start Auth, specifically 1057035 - Antenna for Keyless Entry System: Drivers Side N116F 13 [008] - Open Circuit. It shows as an intermittent fault. My thinking is that the KESSY system ever so briefly looses track of the key transponder (because of the antenna fault), then since the car is in gear it shuts down the engine. Since the fault is intermittent, then it quickly restarts as if nothing happened.
Where the Driver's Side Antenna is located and can its connections be easily checked? Now, pushing this thought further, what happens if this were to occur at speed?? Adding to this, my wife has reported that at times that the keyless entry is a little off, meaning that KESSY won't open the door when she grabs the handle.
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So a few weeks ago my car stalled when I was backing out of a parking spot. It then continued to stall when I was trying to drive through the parking lot. I chalked it up to being low on gas. When I got on the highway it stopped doing it. Then I filled up with gas and it continued to stall while going from a stop position. There is gas and when I go to shift from Reverse to Drive it stalls out when I push the gas. It is almost as if the fuel is not coming through but if I punch it then it does not stall. I've had a number of car issues in the past and I've never experienced anything like this before.
This is an automatic 2003 BMW 330xi.
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Ok so first the battery light came on then all the other lights on the dash came on, ended up dying and we replaced the battery but the abs, esc break light and battery light still are on the dashboard. Also I can use the shift release to drive the car but other then that it is stuck in park. I was reading that the car has a atm but I don't know where its located.
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The battery light is on on the dash. I checked both batteries with the ground wire removed, and they show 12.85 and 12.84 volts, they are clean and not in need of water. The battery light will go out after around 15 minutes on the highway, but not around town, and if I shut off the truck in town, the next start is at a very reduced amperage. Alternator packing it in?
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My wife was driving this morning and the car stalled when she was accelerating from a stop light. Battery light came on and she could not restart the car no power. When I got there she was able to start the car again. I drove 10 feet when the car stalled again. Noticed that the EPC came on smelled rotten eggs or sulfur from the exhaust.
Used jump cables and car started, battery light gone but EPC light came on and stays on, no blinking. I drove back home about 13 miles and no problem. Took battery to test and did not hold charge, I will replace battery. Car was at the dealer for two weeks to get the CAM, cam follower and high p fuel pump replace. Is just a battery issue or another issue for the EPC light?
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Driving in city. First sign was battery light illuminated in dash. Then it went off, then back on. Radio shut off. Then all warning lights illuminated in dash. I'm still driving about 40mph to my destination. GPS goes dark. Tech needle goes to zero, then speedometer goes to zero. I'm still driving approximately 30 mph. Lost headlights. It's dusk. Lost all lights in dash. Slowly moving now and looking for a place to park. Now losing engine power. Coasting to curb. Lose all power and mobility. Call tow. Thought I could smell a slight electrical burn from under hood.
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I am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
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I may have read this on here a time or two before but just noticed our Tig doing it now...with only 816 miles on it!?!? it IS a truly an unnerving, shrill, sound...this will get old and fast! I'd hate to think i need to change the brake pads already, one thing for sure i WILL make mention of this when it goes in for the 90 day "inspection".
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Well, the Tig has developed brake squeal when we're backing out of the garage first thing in the morning. I notice it even more when it is humid outside (I live along the coast in Texas....when is it NOT humid outside?). Anyway, took the Tig in for the 10k mile checkup and oil change (I'm at 9500 miles right now), and I had a small list of things for the service tech to check out. The brakes was one of them. They came back and said that the squealing brakes is just a fact of life with VW. I told him, that was funny, that my 2003 Jetta never had a brake squeal, all the way up to 90k miles. He said that there was nothing they could do about it.
So, my question is.....does any TBS from VW that covers excessive brake squeal in the Tiguans? I thought for sure that they would at least offer to scuff up the pads or rotors, but he said it was normal because of the amount of dust generated by the pads. I also had the tech check oute that occasionally, in the first mile of driving the Tig, the brakes feel like I'm trying to stop a 2 ton truck old style, that is, they don't slow the Tig down until you're almost at the point of locking the wheels, and of course, they couldn't replicate the problem, so, no problem found.
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So just last night I began having a small issue with my R32. While idling, the RPM's slowly starting getting lower to the point where the car almost stalled, probably in the neighborhood of around 300rpms, then it would slowly increase back to normal idle. It did this a few times then while driving and a steady cruise of 35mph I felt a large power loss for a second or two. This repeated a few times until I got home and parked it. I also noticed that the RPM's would fall much, much faster between shifts than normal during this episode. I drove it a short distance today. It it showed no signs of the same problem. Any possible causes?
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I’ve been having a bit of a problem with my 99 Nissan Sentra that is becoming more and more costly every day. It started with my airbag light flashing, so I pulled over to see what might be wrong. I turned the car off, and when I went to start it again it wouldn’t start. I had the battery checked out and it was fine; I ended up changing the starter and the ignition switch. This worked for a week. Later I left my car running in the morning to warm it up, and it did the same thing, the airbag light came on and the battery went dead.
I jumped it and the battery wore itself out again, so this time I took it to the mechanic to replace the alternator. This worked for a week. This time my wife was driving down the highway, the airbag light came on again, and the battery went dead. After a costly tow from the police impound to my home, it will jump, but the battery slowly dies. The only noticeable problems the car has (aside from the obvious battery going dead) is that there is a belt that squeals when I have the air conditioner turned on and I have an oil leak somewhere.
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I've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
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Wife's 2011 Tiguan just stalled when she was driving it. both fuel pumps were replaced about 2 years ago when we bought it used because they faulty. After talking to my wife, I realized that she has been putting 89 in it. I'm just curious if using 89 for an extended period of time could be causing this issue? I had her pick up an octane booster because she just filled up with 89.
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Ok so I have a 09 tiguan S that stalled yesterday while driving only a few short min. My wife had been driving home about 4 miles when she got home I could hear a faint squealing noise as she pulled up. I left right after and assumed it was the the ac belts it that exist, so to verify that I turned off the ac and the sound did fade. I drove with it off for a few min then turned it on again the car acted normal and cooled just fine then about 5 min later I pulled into a lot and while waiting for others to move the engine stalled and I had the engine light, epc and battery lights showing. Now it was something like 110 outside and I thought overheated but the temp gauge showed normal and I received no warnings. I smelled a burned rubber smell and I recall seeing a small puff of smoke. I could not locate anything that could have burned out. The only thing I could see that was unusual was what looked like buildup on the air intake tubes.
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Car stalled and ran on battery only. Set code P3125, and depleted aux battery. So, I replaced the inverter and recharged aux battery.
Drove it 20-30 miles test driving it, when the MIL came on.
Drove home and found 2 codes set, 1st was set while driving, 2nd was set after parking.
P3000/123 - MPH=22 MG2.RPM=1280 SOC=65% Position=D
P3125/287 - MPH=1 SOC=60% Position=P
Any TSB on this issue?
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My 2010 Prius with 205,000 miles, has hybrid system warning, and the dealer has reported that the hybrid battery needs to be replaced, there is a prob with one module but they do not repair the batteries only total battery replacement. Also needs front brakes and tune up. I did not expect the hybrid battery failure on this 2010 Prius since my 2008 Prius (184,000miles) had no issues thus far with the battery. Both cars are every day drive cars. Both cars have been really dependable and only routine maintenance.
I had no issues with the hybrid battery until after my last service when their was some factory recall having to do with the cars computer system, and routine oil change. The car stalled out the next day, but then restarted, this was odd it felt like the car was running but would not go into gear nor respond to the gas pedal, I'm calling it a stall, I'm not sure if this is correct terminology. So, it did this a couple of times the day after service, I was shocked but I just killed the car and restarted no other issues for about 3 weeks. Then I got the hybrid system warning on the computer screen on the dashboard, UGH.
I never expected my newer 2010 Prius to have a hybrid battery failure before my 2008 older Prius.
I'm looking for options with Prius over 200,000 miles. Both have been maintained through dealer services. Dealer reports the 2010 Prius with this issue is worth 1000.00 . I'm at a loss I really want to keep the car, but now I'm unsure, and obviously think it's worth more than 1000.00.
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I have a 2003 Montana which has the airbag light illuminated. Also no matter if the seat belt is locked in or not - no seat belt light ever comes on. I have a code scanner but it doesn't scan airbag codes.
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2001 Elantra, Going good now apart from the fact its draining the battery slowly overnight when powered off, I've hooked up an amp meter with everything powered off and still its drawing around half an amp, Is there any known faults that could cause this or any tricks for finding this kind of fault or do i have a hunt on my hands?? Not sure if this is related or not but when driving an intermittent clicking sound can be heard from inside the driver door.
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looking for info to install rear fog light into my Passat B6 Sedan. I have noticed it is often here in the forum said that you need to change the left reverse light in the trunk hood to an european rear fog light; oempl.us seems to even sell them.
However, i would like to ask if I could just use the original backing light as the rear fog light? Of course the white bulb needs to be replaced with a red bulb, but are there some limitations why I should use extra money to buy a "real" rear fog light? I have understood that the reverse light wire is just moved to another connector so basicly the reverse light should work - am I wrong?
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I have a problem with battery drain with my 2013 F150 with ecoboost engine. If the truck is not used for two or three days it turns over very slowly or not at all. Charged the battery then drove it. I have checked the drain with all off and it seems to be 210 milliamps, then after about 10 or so minutes the drain drops to about 20mA. What the drain should be when vehicle is off for several minutes?
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So this has happened to me a few times now in the cold temps. For my job I'm left to sit and idle every now and then after over an hour of driving.
I'll park my car, ICE will turn off, ICE temp at 195. Sit with heat on at 65 degrees. After about 10 minutes the engine temp will drop to about 110, which the ICE will start and warm up to about 135 and turn off. Hybrid battery stays above 55% and normally hits about 65% on every ICE start. (I have extra instrumentation installed to monitor)
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