Tiguan :: Speckles Of Black Dust Stuck To Car After Snowstorm
Feb 2, 2016
Over the weekend I washed my car after the blizzard a week ago that hit the northeast. I use the waterless and wax wash, which is mostly just spraying and wiping.
Everything came off easily, except for these pesky black speckles of "dust." I can pick them off by scrapping with my finger (with a microfiber cloth in between my nail and car), but it leaves a very faint streak on the car that I cannot take off. The stuff that comes off also clings to the cloth and I cannot get it off.
Could it be some kind of grease from perhaps the plow that may have gone through the street? And what is the best way to clean them without damage to the car paint?
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On both my front windshield as well as my rear window I see small shiny speckles in the glass when the sun is shining thru the glass particularly in early morning and later in the day when the sun angle is low. At first I thought it was tree sap but a thorough cleaning did nothing to improve it. So I used a claybar on the window thinking it may be some other type of contaminant and that did nothing either. The speckles are still there. I have not tried polishing the windshield and rear window.
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I have a 2008 Prius. The black square key is stuck in the ignition and won't come out. I can hear clicking sound under the hood -- perhaps the battery. But the car won't start; the clock is off and the doors don't lock, except manually.
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I've been driving manual 12 years, all my driving life, and been in 10+ manual vehicles during that time, including a 10+ year stint in a 1.8T Passat with a 5-speed.
In all that time, and all those experiences, I've never replaced a clutch, damaged a clutch, or had one problem. In fact, I consider myself a very good operator of the manual transmission.
This is preface to my current situation. 2009 Tiguan (early build) 2.0T 6M, driving at 57mph in 6th gear - downshift to 4th to pass a truck and WHAM. Grinding, confusion, and then the clutch pedal stuck straight to the floor. Glide to a stop on the side of the bayou road.
Totally immobile vehicle. Impossible to shift into gear, or get the pedal off the floor except by pulling. Smell of acrid smoke.
VW dealership says "we're doing a courtesy warranty repair" on the clutch, flywheel and bearings, as if it's my fault. Impossible. This is a mechanical defect if I ever saw one.
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We have a 2009 2.0 Tiguan with approximately 60,000 miles. About 6 months ago, the check engine light came on so we took it in and found out the breather valve was stuck causing oil to enter the cylinder and causing misfires. Had this fixed an about a week later, the car acted up again. Took it in and removed & reinstalled the intake manifold. Both pricey fixes. The dealership said it was a problem with the 2.0 engine design. Now we have taken it in again to a local shop who is now informing us we will need to replace the intake manifold. He said the same thing about the engine design. Our concern is that this problem will need to be fixed on a fairly regular basis. We really love the vehicle but cannot afford the cost of this maintenance if it becomes routine and are considering trading it in for a Passat.
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I've been told by friends driving behind me that every time I accelerate I emit a plume of black smoke followed by a stream of black colored "water". I checked today by having the wife rev the engine to 4.5k...sure enough, black water shoots out of my exhaust, probably 3 oz. I also see a black puff of smoke which I assume is more normal than the water. Is this commonplace ?
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Replacing my HID bulbs, and I thought the the driver lens was just more scratched or rock pitted than the passenger.
However, it appears that their is some fogging or dust inside the lens. It doesn't seem to be actual moisture - it appears almost like a layer of dust or residue - perhaps it had moisture at one time that has evaporated or vented out.
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I just put my steel wheels on for the winter and noticed that my '07 Passat doesn't have dust caps over the driveshaft bolt on the front wheels. Is this normal? Looks kind of funny with the bolt exposed. The rears did have a dust cap on them.
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I'm trying to change out the passenger low beam and I can't see to get the dust cover off. Is there a trick to this? I'm turning on it counterclockwise as hard as I can and it won't budge. The high beam one comes off easily.
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So my saga continues with my rear brakes on my 99 Suburban - had a glazing problem that was eventually discovered, glaze knocked off old pads and then glaze came back again. So we replaced the rear drums and pads. A month and a half later I get an irritating squeaking noise.
Noise - when the tires are rotating they make a light squeaking noise, a rotating/pulsing squeak; when the brakes are applied they make a lower pitch squeak and if I apply just the right pressure on the brakes I can get the noise to go away (while also giving it gas to keep moving).
Last night I inspected the rear brakes and found an excessive amount of dust/grime on the pads. The drums we fairly clean. The pads had a heavy layer of rust/grime on them. When I ran my finger over them it left no mark on the pad because it was so heavy, but my finger had this sooty grime on it. The rust covered about a 1/3 to 1/2 of the pads (each pad had a different amount of coverage).
Everything is brand new and I'm not sure what is causing all the dust coverage.
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Someone mentioned a plastic piece that breaks in the seats quite commonly in the Recaros. I got rear ended and after I got it back in getting padding dust under my seat?
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Have a lot of noise when braking? If I stop the car quickly with heavy braking I generally have no squeaking until about the last second when I am letting back up off the pedal.If I am just stopping slowly, the brakes will squeak for the entire distance of the stop.I don't have excessive brake dust showing up on my rims. And it doesn't really work if I wash the rims and spray off the pads and rotors. It may squeak less for the first time braking but will be back to its normal self by the time I brake the second time. I am at 8K miles right now and I'm pretty sure this has been going on since the beginning.
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So my AC has been making a smell that smells like dust. I searched the forum and found threads about mold, but this isn't a mold smell (or at least what I think mold smells like). I thought it was because I was using charcoal cabin filters but I just bought a new plain filter and I get the same smell. The smell usually happens when I first turn on the car and then goes away after 10 minutes or so and the smell almost always happens when I go through the carwash.
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I already know the climate control screen on my 2010 Prius gets scratched easily, but I noticed today that I also have many dust particles under the screen as well. I never touch the screen and I always take the car to the local car wash for cleaning. Is there any way to remove them or is this something I'll have to live with?
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Phaeton w12 ... I put new inner and outter tie rods on and new dust boots (the accordion style ones).
I am getting popping noises when I turn from the boot. It's been going on for a couple months now. I tried swapping left to right, greasing them etc nothing works ...
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Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
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Own a 2007 Pontiac Vibe (Toyota Matrix). Anyway, do a lot of driving on gravel roads, and the rear window is always covered in mud or dust. Any type of deflector available to alleviate this ?
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Here's what I am running into. I have factory setup and it doesn't feel adequate. I get vibrations, lots of brake dust on front wheels, and just don't feel I have the stopping power if needed in emergency or towing. Especially with how heavy my 6.0 is already.
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I just had my 10k service and noticed my two front tires still had a significant amount of brake dust and the rear tires did not. I always have more brake dust on the front than the rear and was the case when I dropped the car off. The service guy said they rotated from front to back but that didn't happen. I was under the impression they moved front to back and vice versa. What is the standard rotation for tires at the prescribed service intervals?
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2012 Camry SE w/ XM radio. My radio cuts out every time a spec of dust happens to float by the antenna. In other words, it's range is absolutely atrocious.
I love everything else about the car, and maybe this is picky, but man is it annoying to have constant cutout while listening to satellite. Now granted, some of my ride to and from work is tree covered, but mainly on one side of the street and I've owned other cars where this wasn't a problem. And maybe it's magnified due to the stupid static-like sound that Toyota built into the radio every time the signal is lost.
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2007 corolla 64K original factory calipers. I bought pads and rotors today to replace my front brakes. When I removed the right caliper I noticed that the boot was danaged ( about 1" long tear ). but does not leak. I put the pads and rotors on anyways.What would be the normal repair for this Leave it, replace thr boot, replace the whole caliper or replace both calipers. This also has ABS. I have never bleed ABS brakes before. What is the best way for a DIYer to bleed this type of brakes.
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