Tiguan :: Shakes / Vibrates While Going 40 Or 60 - 65 And Gently Pressing On Accelerator
Mar 18, 2013
Just picked it up on Saturday. 2010 WE, 39,500 miles. Ran great all weekend. This morning, on my way to work, I merge onto the highway, and BAM! Check engine light comes on. Now the car Shakes / vibrates while going 40, or 60-65, and gently pressing on the accelerator.
It shakes at idle, while in Drive, with the brakes on. It seems to have lost power, and the engine sounds like a manual car if you were to try to start from a dead-stop in fifth gear. I've taken it back to the dealership, and they are checking it out. Wondering what the heck happened.
I should also point out that on Saturday, the second I got home, an "Air Bag Error" warning came on, and hasn't gone away.
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I am a new 2013 Lexus ES 350 owner. I've notices when I'm driving at 55mph and above that when I press the brake when approaching a stop light or stop sign I can feel a vibrations, the steering wheel doesn't vibrate and the car itself doesn't tremble but I can feel it in my foot. My husband said it could be the ABS. Maybe it's totally normal.
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I get a strange noise when I shit gear & press the accelerator..... the sound is as if something is knocking.....
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I need to pinpoint this clunking noise. I've recently noticed this noise on the highway, after I have been driving a while, when I stop and begin driving again, if I am barely pressing he accelerator, she will clunk along. The sound is accompanied by a movement that you can feel as well. I'm beginning to think maybe there is some slippage in the rear differential.
Also I was wondering how much repairs run for this diff, the numbers I got were:
D26W0
and
2148
I know its not the U-joints, I just had them replaced along with a new driveshaft.
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When I'm on the highway around 60 mph I get a whistling whining vibration sound. if I accelerate or ease off the accelerator it stops, but when I get back to around that speed it comes back. What this could be?
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I have had my 2007 GX for 5 months now. I have discovered the "clunk" issue and had the dealership replace the driveshaft. I want to start a new thread because I have a different clunk. The new driveshaft has fixed my clunk issue at a stop but I have one more. While driving in the city or leaving the highway on the exit ramp (transmission is in overdrive) and I press the accelerator I get a clunk.
This only happens when the transmission is shifting out of overdrive. I can repeat this clunk while driving around 30-40 mph. I will coast a bit then accelerate enough that it wants to shift out of overdrive and then "clunk". It sounds loud but not much of a jerk. I have 85K on it and did not perform any fluid changes in the drive train yet. Transmission is sealed so not sure if it is worth changing or just leave it and drive nice so it don't clunk.
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My Legacy sedan is not behaving well. On more than one occasion, when pressing on the accelerator, the rpms do not rise. I put it in park and try to press gas pedal, nothing. Turn the car off and let rest for a few minutes, then start it up again, and it's fine.....
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New 2015 Escape. Since I got this car in January I have had this problem where occasionally pressing on the accelerator does nothing for a few seconds and then accelerates like popping the clutch in a stick shift. i.e., I was stopped at a redlight with traffic in front of me. The light went green and the traffic was moving very slow. I depressed the accelerator to match the slow speeds. Traffic began to pick up speed and depressing my accelerator more was doing nothing. I gave it slightly more accelerator and nothing. Then my car jerks forward like I popped the clutch, (my car is auto).
The traffic in from of me then stopped and I had to slam on the brakes to avoid rear-ending the car in front of me. This occurs often but I cannot repeat the event. It happens occasionally and without warning. No faults showing.
I had it back to the dealer right after I bought it. I was told to allow time for the adaptive system to break in. At 2k miles I had it back in and was told, no faults, driving it showed nothing, it must be me. Now at 3500 miles, called Ford and was told to take it back to dealer. I have an appointment next week. This is more than a nuisance as I am very concerned pulling into a parking lot or in the example I wrote about could easily end in an accident with another vehicle or pedestrian, especially children.
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My wife was driving our 2 young kids on the highway and the accelerator was making a loud clacking noise and then there was no response when pressing the accelerator. She managed to get to the shoulder. Mechanic says the engine is totally cooked (long block replacement). Only 32K miles and all scheduled maintenance done.
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If I'm at part throttle and i press the clutch pedal in about 2-3 inches, leaving the clutch still fully engaged, i can feel a really rough vibration in the clutch pedal. it stops vibrating as soon as i let off the gas. and i'm only giving it a little bit of gas, mind you.
If I'm at idle, and i have the clutch depressed all the way and rev the engine, I can feel vibration in the clutch pedal. My 6-speed MK4 did not do this, not in the slightest. Is this normal for MK6 or do I have a problem?
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I was driving my 90 Jeep Cherokee (automatic transmission) last night on the freeway when I suddenly lost power. The engine continued to idle (but roughly) but pressing the accelerator did not result in any increase in engine speed or vehicle speed. The car came to a stop on the off-ramp but I was able to restart it and limp along at idle speed for another few blocks until it came to a stop.
I suspected I may have run out of gas, despite the fuel indicator showing a quarter of a tank but after adding 2 gallons of gas to the tank it wouldn't start. It sounded like it wanted to but it wouldn't start.
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After putting my front end back together except new springs, new shocks, and new track bar, just to give everyone a little history of what I've done to it. I've had it for 8 months and maybe put 1000 miles if that because of working out of town a lot and the front end torn apart. I've noticed a louder roar coming from the rear end when taking my foot off the accelerator without pressing the brake. It feels like the tow button is engaged, but isnt. I have no issues with handling besides knowing it still needs alignment. I'm taking it to the dealership tomorrow for a 4 wheel alignment. It sounds and feels like I'm riding on mud terrain tires.
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While driving the other day, the truck suddenly began to stall when pressing the accelerator. The water in fuel light came on as did the glow plug light. This continued with the truck sometimes dying all the way and other times just stalling then picking back up. No difference in throttle pressure seemed to make a difference except that letting off totally then slowly pressing seemed to let it keep running sometimes.
So I get home and drain the fuel water separator. I gets about a thimble full of water and lots of the rusty looking junk others have talked about. Try to run the truck again, same thing as before. I then changed fuel filters and thought that had it licked but after about 10 minutes it started again. By the way, the 6mm plug seemed to have about a third of the threads rusted off. Not sure what that means as I drain it at least twice a year.
I have read a lot about the ICP and IPR issues and was wondering if this could be my problem. I am hoping its not the HPOP. My other thought was something in the fuel tank blocking the in tank filter. I checked the top mount bowl and it was only about two thirds full after running the truck
Truck info: Late 2004 Ford F350 Dually 4x4 crewcab, 6.0, EGR delete plate,4" turbo back exhaust with cat delete, no muffler,K&N filter and filter box, Diablo tuner usually set to 60hp upgrade.
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1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
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Ok so here's the deal recently decided to get my explorer back on the road after sitting for some time. So needed a new alternator replaced took it for a drive was really rough but again it just sat so i kept driving it and it got better but did need some parts and love so here's what I did to it thus far then I will explain what the issue is. I have replaced the alternator, oil change, trans case fluid change, new plugs and wires, new wheel bearing, new rotor, new brakes all around, new caliper. So here's the issue. During take off it vibrates/shakes mostly between 30-40 mph but when you get to about 60 it drives good but when you take your foot off the gas its like a whine or a growl that comes from what sounds like the middle of the truck. I am not exactly sure on what it is. I checked the u joints no slop or anything maybe a little stiff. Tomorrow im checking the front and rear diff and rotating the tires to see if that gets rid of the vibration but what about the whine or growl. Realized I didn't put what type of explorer it is. 2002 explorer xls 4.0 sohc 4x4.
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I have a issue with my golf 1.9tdi when i start the engine it shakes really bad and feels very rough when sitting in the cab steering wheel vibrates really Bad and engine looks like its going to fly out of the car but when i apply throttle the vibrations go only happens when idling.
What it could be i have done a Diesel Purge, changed the fuel filter, cleaner the EGR Valve, changed the coolant temp sensor, checked the injector loom for continuity and resistance everything was fine, checked resistance on injectors readings was all the same, flywheel seems fine when running (no movement) and no change when i dip the clutch, engine mounts i changed the right hand side one all the rest are fine and not penetrated.
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I remember the days when we experienced flat spots on our tires. I have been told by several dealers that it no longer occurs. well then there is something else wrong then. Starting the day for about 15 miles the front end shakes-sometimes violently. after 15 miles or so then things are ok. the dealer cannot reproduce the problem. he is 25 miles away.. i have 30 thousand miles on the tires-they are original..need an answer-really don't weant to buy new tires..my car is a 2012 Hyundai santé fe
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A few weeks ago, my transmission (automatic) started rumbling while shifting from 3rd to 4th and 4th to 5th gear. Shakes the whole car, like you're driving over a rumble strip. Only when the engine is hot. I read online that I should get my transmission flushed and replace the fluid, but should I be expecting the thing to go or is this a normal hiccup for the Santa Fe?
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I have a 1999 Isuzu Rodeo LSE, 110, 000 miles that shakes/vibrates, A LOT, when I go over the smallest bump on the road. I purchased new tires last winter and it ran smooth for about a month then back to shake/vibrate.
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I just bought a 2009 Toyota Camry with 78K miles on it. Everything is great except at highway speeds it shakes and vibrates when braking. The higher the speed the worse it is. Steering wheel shakes as well. I pulled both front tires off and the rotors appear to be smoothe on both sides with no grooves, etc. However, I'm due for new front brake pads. There's some pad left but could that be why it shakes and vibrates when braking? How do you tell if rotors are warped? Rotors are smooth but could they still be warped?
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I drive a 2005 Jetta IV 1.8T R-line. The engine shakes/vibrates at Idle and when I drive.
Also when if I drive at high speeds when I stopped the engine just switches off when idling.
What could be the cause?
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