Tiguan :: Rusted Brakes / Pulsating Feel And Car Shakes When Coming From A High Speed
Aug 12, 2014
So I've been driving my tiggy with the rusted brakes from when I left it for a few months during this past winter season outdoors. I had VW check on it and they said that the only way to fix the problem is to replace the brakes (rotors and pads, I assume) for over $1k. Is there really no way to maybe scrape/sand the rusts out? Right now, when I step on the brakes, I have the pulsating feel and the car shakes when coming from a high speed. At first I thought it would go away after driving it a bit and stepping on the brakes since I did just that last year when I left it for a month during the winter season as well. If the only way is to have the brakes replaced, then I guess I have to shell out the money.
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I just purchased a used 2009 tiguan with 70k KM on it and I love it. thou the brake feels a little odd and I am not sure if this is normal. the brakes have a non-linear feel to it, and it squeals a little bit at very low speed.
the brake have a step feel to it. it feels like the first 1/3 or half is really not doing much, while at a certain point it brakes hard. when I am slowly releasing the brake when trying to move very slowly, it won't move at first, then all of a sudden it kind of jumps.
is this normal? or do I need to get something checked out?
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I have a 1999 C2500 Chevy Silverado extended cab. On some slow speed stops the ABS kicks in and makes it hard to come to a full stop scary. There are no leaks in the system. The ABS light has come on, on the dash off and on. I thought I saw a post that you can shut off the ABS system not the real fix but safer until I can figure it out.
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I just recently replaced my radiator and cold air intake. right after I did and I drove it, my car was idling high at 1.5 and the brakes feel like they are going out. I am kind of confused as to how this is even related.
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My car gives off a pulsating vibration when I'm stopped (at a light, or in my driveway, for example). Its as if someone with huge bass is sitting next to me, but I'm alone. Its a weird "jerking" feel where I can feel my seat shake like a mini earthquake.
I've tried researching "rough idle" but don't fully understand it. Rough idle implies a clogged intake, which kind of makes sense I guess. I have something better than "my car kinda vibrates when I'm stopped".
Its a 2012 Elantra Limited, all stock everything, 53981 miles.
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Taking my car to get the brakes serviced this week. Every time I brake at a high speed the car shakes. I am guessing best case scenario I get the rotors resurfaced and worse case new rotors.
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I have an 05 Camry LE & when ever I'm on the highway going around 50-80mph & need to break my steering wheel starts to shake until I either stop or put my foot back on the gas. Last year my power steering rack & one of my motor mounts got replaced, & for awhile it stopped & figured because that was going out that's what was causing it.
Well about a month later it started back up & still does it, I've taken it to the dealership & have told them & they test drove it, felt the same thing I felt but didn't find anything. Is there anything else that could be causing it ? Earlier last year my bearings were lose in the front, and I managed to get my brakes stuck & had that all fixed & since then that's when it started shaking . I took it back to that shop & mention every time I go in for oil changes at my dealership, is there something else I'm not aware about that I should ask them to look at ?
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I have a 2003 Lexus Rx 300. Last year I had new brakes and I think the rotors were worked on. I also got new tires on all 4 wheels. I have noticed a shake when I brake, mostly from high speeds. I just had the tires rotated and the shake is still there.
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Ok,I have brought my car (2005 Toyota Echo) into the shop three times and they can't figure it out. I have summer and winter tires. Last summer the summer tires were fine, the winter tires were fine, then I changed the front tires, and couldn't remove the back tires (I hit them with a hammer and 2x4 and they didn't come off). From that point on my car has vibrated at around 60mph, but not 100% of the time.
I took the car in to the mechanic, they changed the back tire for me and balanced the front...still vibrates, they then balanced the back...still vibrates. Now they say the disk rotor is bent, and want to fix that but aren't sure that will fix the problem. What's going on, I changed the front tires and now the car vibrates at high speed most of the time, but not all the time.
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My wife drives a 2010 Honda Civic LX sedan with about 18k miles. She mentioned that its steering wheel started shaking a couple of weeks ago when driving at about 60 miles/hour at the same streth of the road during her daily commute. She did experience the problem during rest of her drive at lower speed. I drive the car about once a week at lower than 45 miles/hour and had no problem. I have checked the tires and noticed nothing obvious.
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I've been noticing my steering wheel shakes if i normally brake going on the highway at high speed. My friend said that it's probably your brakes and rotors. Get them replaced and resurface and that should fix the problem. Can i get some confirmation before i do this?
1. I just had my tires replace at 55k and bought this car new back in feb 09. it has 62k.
2. also i've been reading up on camries fail water pump. i'm thinking of doing this over the weekend or should i just wait until i notice some leaks?
3. lastly, any major thing i need to be aware of. i've done the normal engine oil and filter change, cabin and engine air filter change, that's about it. i hope these camries are bullet proof like the old school (92-95).
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So I have every so often been hearing a grinding noise coming from what I believe is my back brakes (only does it when I brake). It isn't every time I brake but it does seem to happen almost every time I back up out of my spot initially and touch the brakes. It happens almost everytime I brake when driving at a reasonable speed. Tiggy has like 53,000 on it.
I have looked online and I just don't have the tools or access to a garage to do them myself so I think I am going to have to bring it in. Any rough estimate of what it is going to cost me? Also, I just bought this used on 7/5/14, I was under the impression in California that they can't sell a car with having brakes that are this worn.
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I have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
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Yesterday I was on the highway - dry surface, a little bit of wind, but not much. While driving I kept feeling *kind of* like the Tiguan was getting pushed around by the wind, but not really. I looked at the trees, at the other cars and trucks on the road and none of them seemed to be moving around like me.
It was "kind of" like getting pushed by the wind - but actually more like the car was "crabbing" ... like the wheels were not spinning at the same speed. Very similar to the way it feels on snow/slippery conditions when traction control kicks in and straigtens out the Tiguan. It was like the front was fighting the rear and the car was twisting.
I chalked it up to being windy, although I've been in the Tiguan before in windy conditions and this was not the same.
Then today, I was leaving Home Depot. I closed the door, started the Tiguan, foot on brake and put the car in drive. Then immediately I had 4 tap-tap-tap-tap. Very much like if someone was pulling into the spot behind me and tapped me with their bumper.
I spun around in the seat and no one was in the car behind me, plus I have the trailer hitch in, so it would be a different feeling.
hhmmm ... very odd. I put the car back in park, back to drive and no tap.
Now I am curious. I turn the car off, wait a second, start the car again, back to drive, and sure enough another tap.
This is not the engagement of the transmission, this is a harder tap that happens after the transmission engages.
Tried it another couple of times and can replicate it.
I have to drive by the exit where my VW dealer is to get back home, so I stop by *HOPING* that I could replicate it again to the service manager, and sure enough - close the door, start the Tiguan, foot on brake and put the car in drive. Transmission engages, then immediately tap-tap-tap-tap
"hhmm that's not right he says". It was too late to get it into the shop tonight, but I left it overnight. Given my odd driving experience yesterday and the tap-tap-tap today, he was not sure if it was a safety issue with continuing to drive it.
This is a 2012 Tiguan SE 4 motion
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I have noticed that the throttle is a bit light...meaning that the resistance bringing the throttle back to idle is too soft. Two issues as a result. Unexpected..faster acceleration from a stop and my leg tires a bit in town keeping speeds in the 30-45 range. Assume there is no retro fit and/no adjustment. It's rather odd in that just about everything else on the vehicle seems well thought out and executed. I could complain about the over boosted power brakes....or the brake squeel that the dealer can't/will not fix...but the throttle is really getting on my nerves.
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I just had new rear drums put on, my front brake pads are new, my rotors are good...but there is still a pulsating when I brake. When I am just about slowed down you can definitely feel a surging coming from somewhere. The steering wheel does not shake, and I don't feel more than a vibration from the brake pedal. I have taken it to 3 mechanics and replacing the drums was given as a solution. But since I have already done that, the problem is obviously not resolved. I know I need new tires as 2 of them are really cupped and loud...could that be it?
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Got new brakes 4 months ago - except this time put in redstuff ceramic pads.
I've had really bad vibration and grinding lately so I just had the rotors machined and cleaned up.
Some of the vibration is gone but when I apply the brakes more than very lightly I get shaking shuddering including the steering wheel. If I apply the brakes harder it goes away.
I would estimate the pulsating/shuddering/shaking happens when I apply the brakes more than 10 percent up to say 40-50 percent. Very light pressure no problems and hard braking no issues.
This has gotten worse since the servicing. What could be causing this? I've already replaced the propshaft and am replacing the tires.
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I purchased a set of new LTX MS2 tires back in October and a week ago a got a nail on the right front tire, specifically the side wall so they couldn't fix it so they replaced the tire with a new one. Now when I step on the brakes at 60 mph, the steering wheel vibrates. Can the new tire be causing that? I looked at the weights and one set of weights is taped kind of crooked, can the balancing cause it too?
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I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
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I don't use my car much, and park it on the street. I last drove it 3 weeks ago, and it did great on a 6 hour trip. It is worth noting that until this year, the car had lived in Washington, and this 6 hour trip was the first welt salted road experience the car has ever had.
Today, I go to drive it, and the first time I hit the brakes, I'm greeted by the entire car shaking and the brake pedal pulsating. My first thought was "wow, are the roads really that icy? that's a lot of ABS...". I then realized this was absurd, the roads are clearly dry and this doesn't quite feel like ABS (although it's a very similar feeling at high speeds). My next thought was that I must have ice in the pads, it'll melt off soon. So I drove 20 minutes, and it didn't improve. I turned around, and drove home.
When I first moved the car, I had to give it gas to get it to go and heard a snap. I assume this was it being stuck in ice as I hadn't driven for a while and it was very cold. It could have been something breaking, though.
I have since taken off all the wheels, visually inspected the drum brakes for any damage (pads look fine). I looked at the disc brakes and they looked fine. One of the caliper slide pins was completely seized, so I was hoping that'd fix it, but it had no effect at all.
The brake fluid level is full. I seriously doubt this is warped discs, because it drove perfect last time I used it and it was spontaneously so bad today.
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Recently my brakes were feeling a little spongy so I took my X to a local shop who installed new front and rear brake pads and flushed the brake fluid. The brakes seemed to operate properly.
But, then while driving on the interstate in Tampa, I had to SLAM on the brakes but it seemed like it took forever to slow down. It's hard to describe, but it's like when you are moving at interstate speeds and then you have to SLAM on the brakes, the X just slows down and comes to an eventual stop. It does not stop quickly.
I do not feel any pulsing from the antilock braking system so I don't think it is being activated for some reason. This seems to only happen at faster speeds. I have no problem when driving around town and slowing down for stop signs or red lights. It slows and stops just fine.
So I took the X back to the shop and they replaced the Booster w Ford booster. I thought I checked it out as soon as I picked it up around town AND on the interstate.
But, today I had to SLAM on the brakes while on the interstate again and it is acting just like before - just slowing down, but not fast and without the antilock brakes activating (apparently).
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