Tiguan :: No Downshifting When Going Downhill Or Coming To A Stop
Dec 21, 2013
We have a 2010 Tiguan SEL 4 motion automatic and today it just died after i pulled out of parking spot. the only light on the dash was the battery light. I restarted once i put it in neutral. When driving home my wife and i notice it was not downshifting when going down hill or when coming to a stop. This is not the usual behavior. It also seemed like it was costing in neutral when i was not in the throttle. I dropped it off at my usual dealer and hopefully they can duplicate it.
I am wondering if the battery or alternator is bad and the transmission computer was not getting good voltage and that made it act funny.
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I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
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My beloved standard, 2000 Ford Ranger, with an estimated 170,000 miles on it, has a problem with stalling that keeps getting worse. 2 different garages have failed to fix this problem three times. Many parts have been replaced/checked (like battery, plugs/wires) and the fuel and induction system was cleaned, fuel pressure, Compression and engine vacuum were all fine. The Check Engine Light goes on and off all the time and does not seem to relate to the problem. When the last garage hooked it up to the computer, nothing related to the problem was identified, they reported. The invoice/report from them is attached to this posting.
My problem began about 2 years ago. The truck would only stall out when I first began driving, after about a mile, and only if I was going downhill and was coming to a stop. Then it would putter and choke and ultimately stall out completely. After my 30 minute commute (near highway speeds) the truck would then be fine the rest of the day, with no problems stalling when I drove to a meeting or out to lunch. Since it began, it has gotten steadily worse. Now, pretty much whenever I decelerate downhill, and come to a halt, it will stall out unless I leave it in neutral and keep fluttering the gas peddle to give it more gas. It even happens when I'm not going downhill. It does not happen when I first start driving, but after a mile or so, it happens almost whenver I come to a stop. It sounds like the truck isn't getting enough gas, and if I don't keep pumping it with signifcantly more gas, it will stall.
Once stalled out, if I try to start it up again immediately, it is VERY hard to make it start. I have to keep turning it over before it finally sparks to life. It sounds pretty awful. otherwise it starts easily. IF, however, I let it stall out in a parking lot at a gas station, for example, and I go into the store and make a couple quick purchases, when I go out to start the truck, it fires right up with no problem. It only has a VERY hard time starting up when I'm in an intersection and try to re-start it immediately after it stalls out.
The two different garages that have failed to fix it were both able to easily replicate the problem, so that was not an issue. Amount of gas in the truck and temperature outside are both irrelevant.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus and when i am going down hill and coming to a stop sign the whole car shakes , the whole front end was redone and yet the problem still persists, It also stalls out when coming to a stop sometimes what could this be ?
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i drained the 30000 mile fluid two weeks ago because it was harsh downshifting when coming to a stop... I was curious if others noticed a lot of metal sludge sticking to the magnetized drain plug???..
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So on my way home today from work I came to a stop sign and noticed my car (2001 Hyundai Accent, 1.6L Automatic) didn't downshift while coming to the stop. So I stopped and hit the gas, and the car didn't move, it only revved. So I put it in park and it banged into park, then I put it in drive and it banged into drive. Then while driving, it will only shift when you let off the gas and like 5 seconds later after you let off the gas it shifts really really hard into third I believe. And in addition, there is no reverse now! I put it in reverse and nothing, even when I hit the gas it goes nowhere.
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I picked up an '08 R32 about two months ago and was having issues with the DSG and the dealership determined it was an issue with the mechatronic unit so they swapped it. That made a huge difference, but the downshifting is still very hard when coming to a slow stop (to the point where the car jumps), especially from 2nd to 1st gear. About half the time when I back out of a parking spot, then put the car in drive and start to give it gas, the car doesn't move for a few seconds as the RPM's build, then it slams into gear.
This all happens in drive (D). I haven't even used the other modes to know if it's happening there too. The dealership says they don't see any issues with it and there are no error codes and that there is nothing wrong with the car, but this is by far the worst transmission I've ever had in any car I've ever owned. I find it hard to believe that VW and Audi would put this in their higher end cars, so I can only assume there is something wrong with mine.
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I have an intermittent issue where the tiggy seems to downshift harshly to 1st when coming to a stop while in D. Almost like dropping the clutch but not enough to chirp the tires - just enough to feel a thump. I figure it's related to the engine braking "feature" of this car but doing it incorrectly. It seems as though once it's happening, it stays like that for a while, but the next day for example, it will be fine.
I've been observing it for some time now and it doesn't seem temperature specific. In fact, I have a hunch it might be electronic even since if I turn off ESC it stops occurring. Turning off brake auto-hold doesn't make a difference either (this is turned off automatically if ESC is shut off).
I hate taking my car into the dealer for intermittent issues... they are notorious at dismissing something if it doesn't happen right then and there in front of their face. Thought maybe I should check the forums incase their's a TSB or something to fix this exact issue or if it's just unique to my tig.
2010 (build date 8/09) 4motion SE btw, w/ 5k miles
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2010 SE 4Motion: My Tiguan's tranny seems to clunk pretty bad when coming to a stop. Wasn't a problem until after I got flashed to APR stage 1 so it may still be adapting, but I'm not sure.
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I have noticed a couple times now on my Automatic S that the engine keeps revving an additional 1,000 - 2,000 rpms when I am braking going down a hill. Is this normal? It doesn't occur on flat roads or going uphill, but only downhill. It's almost as if it downshifts when I brake. Not sure if this is normal or not, but it just didn't feel right.
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I've had my 2013 Tiguan since July and have always noticed that it needlessly wants to downshift when going down hills. For instance, I might be doing 45-50mph down a hill... it'll be in 6th or 5th gear. If I tap the break, it downshifts. If I tap it again, it'll downshift again, to THIRD gear. The RPMs will shoot up to over 4,000. This also usually occurs if I put my foot on the break and keep there. So, if I'm on hilly roads... which is often being in Northwestern Connecticut, I'll engage the tiptronic.
Am I overreacting and is this just how the '13 Tiguan functions? Or is it a common problem with a fix?
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Yesterday my 2013 R-Line started downshifting in a harsh manner. Vehicle has been serviced regularly every 8,000 km in accordance with the VW Maintenance Schedule as outlined in the Owners Manual. It is also completely stock and daily driven (mostly highway).
Today I took it to have it checked out as I suspected the TCU might be the problem. As it turns out they said that the entire Transmission needs to be replaced. I have 108,000 km on the odometer now so the Canadian Warranty has expired (100,000km)
I was absolutely gutted as it seems absurd that an automatic transmission would fail with relatively low mileage. My old MkV GTI with a DSG is still going with over 300,000 km.
This is my second Tiguan in the past 3 years. I have also owned a MkV GTI and also currently own a Mk6 Golf R. I have always been good to all of my VWs(maintenance) and they have always been reliable until now.
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My nice little 2002 GL 1.6 has 160K+ on it. Lately, when I come to a stop, I get a thump when she downshifts. I don't know which gear exactly, but it happens when the car reaches 10 MPH and below, so maybe when it goes into first? It is just as the car stops, it seems.
More recently, it seems as if when I get just about stopped, it feels as if she completely disengages from drive and goes into neutral. But it doesn't actually do that, she is fine when I take off. She upshifts just fine, it's just that last little bit when coming to a stop.
I have never had the transmission messed with very much, but I know it was serviced a few years ago. I did add a little fluid a few weeks ago after I checked it, and I was very careful to purchase the exact correct fluid.
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My freshly rebuilt C6 with Transgo shift kit and Hughes 2500 stall converter won't downshift until I'm nearly at a dead stop. My Cruisomatic did the same thing in stock form. I roll up to an intersection and the light is green. I slow way down to negotiate the turn. I then throttle when headed straight and the tranny is still in Drive. It does the same thing when slowing way down for speed bumps. Could the shift kit or stall converter affect downshifts?
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AC smells terribad sometimes. So bad I'm embarrassed to have guests in my car. The in cabin air filter has been replaced (supposedly) by the shop several times, but the smell is still there. Is something dead in my AC?No way to turn off side air vents. If I turn on my air, hit the feet selection button, air still comes out of my driver and passenger side air vents, but not the center. Is this normal?Odd clicking/churning sound from inside dash when selecting different air settings. DSG recall done 20k ago, but still random surges of power when downshifting to a stop. Also random jumping when shifting from N to D. Now this one really concerns me, at speed (50-80mph) there is a repeating chirping sound (like: reh-reh-reh-reh-reh). Its speed of chirp is proportionate to my driving speed. It seems to be coming from the wheel area, maybe the passenger it's very hard to tell. It doesn't happen all the time, but it will always happen on long drives at speed, 30+ minutes of 50-80mph. I even made a video, it takes a bit but you can hear the difference in sound when it kicks in.
[URL] .....
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I have a 77 F250 4X4, 400, C6. Upshifts and downshifts are working normally, except under light load and minimal throttle the tranny downshifts to 2nd at any speed under 40 mph. I've never had an automatic do this before. I checked the kickdown linkage is pulled up so it's doesn't seem to be in kickdown position always, no vacuum leaks to the modulator. I confess to be more of a manual trans guy so my knowledge is autos is limited.
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Well I have 8000 miles on my 12 Eco now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned but it has always shifted rough, Mainly into 3rd gear but you could always feel it downshifting when rolling up to a stop sign also, I just assumed it was the way it was suppose to be. This morning I was driving it and noticed it was shifting very nice and smooth, no downshift braking or the other little issues.
I also noticed the the select shift was turned off (the numbers on the dash 1-6) if you push the + button on the shifter you can turn them off, I have had it turned on since I bought the truck because I kind of liked the display but anyway with the select shift turned off the transmission shifts very nice, I turned it back on and the rough shifting returned, Try it on yours to see if it changes.
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Why my 2010 Prius has 3 times now failed to stop when brakes were applied on a steep downhill in slight rain? Happened a year apart with no slick road and with tires both new and old. I pull up to a stop sign on a grade, apply brakes, the car slows, then there are metallic noises and the car glides 3-4 feet before stopping. I'm lucky no car or person was in front of me. Honestly not a skid at all. Service tells me I don't know about anti-lock brakes but I've driven with them on cars for many years with nothing like this.
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I have a 2005 Suzuki Aerio with an automatic transmission. Occasionally, maybe once every month or two, the check engine light will come on while I am driving and the car will immediately stop down-shifting from 3rd gear. The car otherwise seems to run fine but I end up having to manually shift to get to wherever I am going. Then on my next trip, the transmission will shift fine but the check engine light will stay on for an additional trip or two and then go off. What is going on. By the time I get to it the light is off again and the car seems to function fine.
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My car went into shop for brake sensors that were "fixed". Now after having it in shop, car is not downshifting when slowing down and the PO756 diag is coming up.
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2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
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