Tiguan :: Mild Engine Judder / Occasional Vibrations
Aug 30, 2014
Tiguan 2.0 TSI 2009... Lately I am experiencing occasional engine vibrations, especially once the engine is cold, but do come even after engine has warmed up. Sometime even at highway speed, i could feel the vibration, but no effect on engine pull or acceleration. There is no noticeable engine misfiring. On few occasions, one starting, the engine does not pick the rpm and rattles with EPS, Oil and CHG light remaining on. A little press on the accelerator and engine gets to normal idle. The diagnostic computer does not show any fault. The local VW dealer after an expensive trouble shooting has 'diagnosed' POSSIBLE low fuel pump pressure, faulty ignition coils and ignition leads, and a heavy bill for replacements.
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Got Tiguan 2011 46000 miles on it. Just serviced intermittent no start and occasional stall after start.
Dealer replaced High pressure fuel pump and fuel pump control module. So far so good.
Seams like common issue.
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Hearing a "metallic knocking"-like sound coming from the pillar-area behind the driver and/or passenger seats? See this thread: [URL] ....
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I've been getting some judder in the ride when my 3.2l V6 petrol engine is under load at low speeds - usually around bends or uphill.
My VW main-dealer diagnosed this as a slight misfire - not enough to bring on the check engine light. They checked the coil packs and the sparks have been replaced - no problems with either.
They then checked the compression on all 6 cylinders - and apparently Cylinder 4 is running at 7.7 BAR and Cylinder 6 is running a 14.3 BAR. Compression 'at new' would be around 13 BAR and anything below 7.5 is considered 'wear'. Pressure on the other Cylinders varies between 11 and 9 - see below:
Cyl 1: 11
Cyl 2: 11.4
Cyl 3: 10.8
Cyl 4: 7.7
Cyl 5: 9.3
Cyl 6: 14.3
I can't see how I could be getting MORE compression than 'at new' on one cylinder and so much less on another. I also have a feeling that the problem is worse when petrol is low... Engine has only done 75k miles and has full VW main-dealer history. Have tried the old 'Italian tune-up' with Forte engine additive - no change. A knowledgeable friend has suggested it might be the Hydraulic valve lifters sticking..
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Car :1.8 20v SE 1999 passat adr engine .....
1st prob#: whilst at stand still, in neutral gently accelerating to approx 1100 rpm the engine will rev up/down all on its own, pedal remains steady
2nd prob#: car also has intermittent misfire. I checked the coilpacks using water mist & definite arc/spark
3rd prob#: car has definite judder ,felt through heel/knee kinda bouncing /vibration sensation seems to happen at 35+, light throttle, constant speed, can acc through but thinking all probs related.
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I have a 2005 F150, 5.4 triton. I bought the truck used and it came with an Edge tuner. It's lifted with 35's.
Under mild acceleration I get a psst-psst-psst-psst-psst-psst type noise. Sounds almost like air... It only happens in drive when you get on the gas and put a load on the engine but not always. It doesn't seem to happen if you mash the pedal...
I can't seem to replicate this sound in the driveway. I've never heard this sound before.
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I'm loving this 'new' 2004 prius with 177k miles on it that i just bought. In New England winters I'm still getting 40-45 mpg and I'm not even trying to get great MPG's.
1.) Wind noise : My biggest disappointment is excessive wind noise over 55 mph. I 'm using this car as a taxi and its so loud inside I'm a little embarrassed with customers in the car. It sounds to me that its coming from the passenger window or passenger side near the windshield, but I can not identify its location at all. I've always been the one driving when looking for it though.
I called a dealer that sells lots of gen II used prius's and he says its fairly common to replace the window seals? The car has a clean car fax.
2.) Mild clunk when the engine kicks on. Not all the time, but sometimes : Other thing is, I can sometimes feel and hear a mild clunk when the engine kicks on. I also feel a little bit if vibration when the engine is on and i'm idling (it was 16 degrees last night so the engine stays on for heat). The oil level is good. I'm due for change in the next 500 miles.
Is this anything I should be concerned about? I'm sure I'm just overly sensitive.
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Ever since I put in my stage 2 BFI mounts I've had pretty bad vibration at 2800rpm. After over 5,000 miles, these are the symptoms:
Some times are worse than others. I will be cruising at 2800rpm and my dash will be rattling. If I lift off the throttle and re-apply it, the vibration could lessen and stop dash rattling. I think once I hit a bump while maintaining 2800 and the vibration became less severe, almost as if the bump "sync'd" whatever was vibrating.Seems to be worst when engine braking. Causes dimple dash to rattle loudly against front dash area and rear view mirror shakes...vibrates when the car is in gear or in neutral
I'm leaning towards flywheel based on what I've read. Before I replace clutch/flywheel, what could be causing it?
Also curious what labor might cost on clutch/flywheel replacement, and if the "shim" kit thing is necessary to do for a stock setup. The shop is recommending machining something in there to fix the play issues with 02m?
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There are some NX 200t owners experiencing some uncharacteristic engine vibrations at idle or low rpms around 700-800 rpms as per this thread here, even for a 4 cylinder. How about IS 200t owners?
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I have a 2006 Lincoln zephyr. 3.0l v6. With fwd. I bought the car off Craig's list, from a private owner.
When I got it, back brakes were complete crap. Looks like never changed. Put on new rotors, new pads. The car was still vibrating, and making noises from the tires. Changed front brakes and rotors. Car was jerking when braking or at really slow speeds (0-15mph) even the jerking goes away, the vibration was still there. Went to ntb today, they changed my oil, rotated tires, and balanced front tires. The jerking gradually got better, I can't say it's there at all. As for vibration, still there, and tires in back are still a little loud. Someone told me my rim is bent? That does sound like something that could be causing this?? Another thing I have noticed is that the jerking in the car and the vibration get worse after driving for a while or when my sound system has been on for a while. Another thing today, after the oil change, I got home, and noticed a clicking sound coming from the engine. Seems as if the clicking starts after the car has been driven a little bit, then stays on until you turn it off and let it sit for a while
What it could be? IS MY CAR drive able?
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Strange Vibrations From Engine (Possibly?) While Riding Brakes In Slow Traffic. I tried to search but didn't come up with much that was similar.
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I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
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I have a 2006 azera limited 63k miles on it and I'm getting a rough idle that sounds worse when the weather is cold. also when I press the gas there is hesitation from the car to accelerate. on top of that, I feel vibrations from the engine all through the driver and passenger seat. When I turn the car on it idles at 1300-1500 rpm and takes about 5-7 minutes to come down. when it does , it idles at 650 rpm. I'm not getting any check engine lights or codes. I've replaced spark plugs, air filter, had the air induction service done at the dealership, and had to have Hyundai put on a new throttle body last march when it gave out on me while at work. the dealership doesn't know what it is and said to use a fuel additive when I fill up the tank. I have and am waiting to see if that does anything. I put in a bottle of CRC 1 Tank fuel system cleaner 2 days ago. I've even changed my brand of gas from exxon to bp just in case. I think it may be a bad hose for the idle and a bad motor mount for the vibration. Could an O2 sensor be going bad?
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I have been experiencing a vibration in my car at highway speeds (50mph+). Vibration is only present when the engine is under load, IE, i am accelerating, maintaining highway speed, or climbing a hill. Vibration is not present if I put the car in neutral and rev the engine. Vibration initially seemed to come from the rear, but it now is present over the entire car, steering wheel, pedals, seats, dash, etc... The vibration is getting progressively worst and appears at lower speeds than when first noticed at 70k. Taken to the dealer then, did a wheel balance and alignment didn't fix the problem, unable to diagnose and said bring it back when it's worst (about 200$).
Now at 92k and running out of my 100k warranty. Taken back to the dealership, they told me to change catalytic converter (not under warranty) (75$diagnosis fee) and O2 censor (for 1000$), so I had a reputable mechanic in town do that (420$), problem still there. I took it back to the dealership, they said my cyl2 has a misfire, and to change plugs... so i had them do that (120$, 10%off, waived the diagnosis fee), of course... problem still there. They then suggested it was my snow tires, I replied it has been through 4 sets of tires (two snows, two summers, and all the alignments, balances, rotations associated with that)... problem still there... (and if it was tiring, it would vibrate at speed all the time, not just when you are giving the engine gas)...
I am bringing the car back to them this week, they are going to put a set of their tires on the car and see if it may be a wheel bearing... again, this does not seem right to me... if it's a bearing, wouldn't that be a condition present all the time, and even (or progressively worst) through speeds...
they told me they have checked the struts (my first guess) and they look OK, as well as the engine mounts (my second guess) look OK.
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I've got a GTI with a lot of engine vibrations, and I'm not sure if it's something to worry about or even if it's somewhat normal. I have 23,000 miles, Stage II for most of that. My motor ticks obviously but they all do. The idle is smooth (mostly, the needle never fluctuates it's idling at a specific RPM perfectly) but I feel little hiccups and inconsistencies in my steering wheel at a stop light.
Could this be bad motor mounts? Could this be a valvetrain issue? Is there any way to debug this?
I first noticed the issue (it might have been happening beforehand, but never noticed it) after getting my 20k dealer service. Until then I was changing my oil and filter every 6k with motul specific 5W-40. Could they have used a different weight of oil that might simply be changing the way the motor feels?
It seems the idling vibration characteristics of my motor have changed, and I'd like to fix the issue if one exists to prevent future damage to the motor.
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My 2001 BMW 325Ci has an occasional "surging" idle problem. When coming to a stop or at idle, the engine will rev between 500 and 1000 rpm's. Sometimes it will correct the problem and idle normally, or keeps surging until it eventually stalls. When restarted it works fine. Tried fuel injector treatment, fuel stabilizer treatment, and replaced thermostat. Still surges about 50% of the time. Had it to a dealer, and computer says its running fine.
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My old Trooper, which is painted like the Merry Prankster bus, has had a series of electrical/ignition problems. It began earlier this winter with an occasional engine miss and also occasional a failure to start. My mechanic has replaced the distributor, the coil and the ignition control module (twice). Each time it runs fine for a couple of days and then starts acting up again. It is currently sitting in my driveway with zero spark coming out of the coil. The year of my Trooper is 1990.
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My husbands GMC truck has an occasional ticking noise coming from the engine area. The noise happens when you crank up although it doesn't always happen. It will sometimes go several weeks without ticking/clicking. When it does start, the sound usually goes away after the truck "warms up" for a minute. The ticking/clicking does not change pattern when you accelerate. The mechanic said it just needed an oil change, but my husband has made sure to check the oil.
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What is wrong with my Passat: once a week my car fails to start. When clutch is pressed and ignition key is turned I can hear relay under dash is clicking and nothing happening. It does not sound to me as starter (I hope). After a few seconds and few attempts car starts normally. I checked which relay is clicking and it was Relay # 53 (starting interlock relay), which linked to a clutch switch. Replaced this relay and after a week problem repeated.
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I have had a 2002 Prius since December of 2012, and it has been running fine since I got it; while it was in a wreck in May 2013 that has rendered both passenger-side doors and windows unusable, I have not seen that incident cause any other problems, and the car still runs perfectly fine. I am supposed to be driving from my current home state for a job soon, but about a week ago while I was driving on the interstate, the check engine light started flashing.
I was changing lanes and putting a good bit of pressure on the gas in order to pass someone that was going below the speed limit, putting my speed at around 80 mph when the check engine light started flashing. I started getting off of the interstate to find a place to stop and inspect things, but the light stopped flashing when I got down to around 45 mph on the exit ramp, and I was able to drive the rest of the way on the interstate without any trouble, even when I got in the 75 mph range again. The span of time between the light starting to flash and turning off again was probably about a minute or so.
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I am a new 2016 GTI 6 MT S model owner.
I have been driving manual cars for more than 10 years. In manual cars, the engine rev generally drops slightly at engagement point, but in the GTI I noticed that the engine maintains rather slightly increases the rev automatically while engaging clutch in 1st or reverse if the gas pedal is not pressed. It is also very audible as the engine sound changes (increases).
Also I have noticed significant clutch engagement judder if I take off by pushing the gas.
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