Tiguan :: Metal Clip For Rear Lights
Dec 5, 2011
I was changing the bulb in the rear light above the door next to the grab handle. The thin metal clip that holds the light in place snapped. Where to get a new clip. The dealership told me hey don't change bulbs, they just swap assemblies out. The assembly part # is 5N0 947 291A ....
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I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
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My father's 1997 F150 with the 4.6 two wheel drive, has me stumped again. I have a lot of mechanic knowledge but this one has got me wondering whats going on. Here is the run down. When you are driving down the road, it rides just fine and makes no noises from 0-20 MPH, after about 25 to 35 mph it makes like a metal on metal noise that is coming from the rear, and forces the truck to slow down, when you try to accelerate through this problem it has a bad bang and it wont allow you to speed up anymore, it does not seem like a brake issue (but I could be wrong) since it does not actually pull to one side or the other.
It seems like an equal force trying to stop the truck. I have heard rear ends that were going out and they make clunk noises or whirring noises etc, but its still some what driveable. I have checked the rear end oil and it does have oil in it, and its probably about an inch from the full level (but that shouldnt cause this issue im sure). My father wants a definite answer before we start tearing this thing apart to try and fix it. Since its mostly used to take trash off, and also get the kids down the dirt road to the bus stop.
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At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
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When driving in my parking garage, I can hear a slight metal on metal noise. An extreme example would be sharpening a knife on a sharpener, its not as loud or predominate.
-I've checked the lugs, they are secure.
Car has springs and spacers.
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So I was installing my Hid's and the clip broke off, clip still in tact but the part that it's held in where the screw is at is gone. What can be done about this?
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Engine/transmission metal rattle noise. I have a SEL w/auto and I hear a metal rattle noise under light acceleration when it shifts from 6th to 5th, 5th to 4th and usually between 1500 to 2000 RPM. I took it into vw to check and a couple guys drove it and said everything is in normal operating condition. It only has 1700 miles and it has made the noise since I picked it up. I had a GTI before this so I am familiar with the engine but I had a manual.
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I have a VW Tiguan w/ auto lights. I was just wondering if there is a way to have the fog lights turn on with the auto lights function.
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For the last week or so been noticing as I'm slowing down, brake or no brake, a metallic, grinding noise coming from the rear passenger side. Does not sound like a humming worn wheel bearing noise. Its pretty loud, almost clunky and not always consistant. Then the last day or so have noticed it on the right side. At higher speeds....faintly hear a ticking... The car has 48K on it.
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I was driving home today from work and everything seemed to be going well until I approached a bump a few blocks from my house. I was literally driving 3mph over the speed bump. When my read was coming down the speed bump I heard a loud metal clunk come from the rear. I tried looking underneath the car with a flashlight but no success. It's not a constant clunk. Only when I go over a speed bump and certain cracks or potholes in the street.
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I hear that noise from back.."click".."click".... a metal sound click noise intermittently/ randomly from rear. I took it to the dealer and the work order said "noise suppression ordered" but then i went for the servicing over the weekend and the customer service was saying "the technician has to talk to the part manager to see when the part will arrive, could take a month since this is not a genuine VW part".. What a noise suppression is? that could mitagate/reduce or eliminate this weird clicking noise coming from rear randomly?
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Didn't have time to break out the digital camera, but what the two black painted bars set into the back of the rear seat are?? Doesn't appear to be part of the locking mechanism, but I'm uncertain.
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This problem started in Jan this year and got worse through feb, got it checked in march to find out it had metal shavings and chucks stuck to the magnet. Ive searched the forums for the last few weeks but noticed no one seemed to point out if you can drive it while its like this or is this a recipe for disaster. other than the droning/whining the car will fight me will going in reverse while turning which has happened twice. Need to get the whole rear diff/haldex replaced....
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I commute 180 miles a day, 6 days a week. I noticed metal on metal grinding noise(more noticeable) at high speed above 75mph especially on asphalt road. I'm sure noise is there at low speed but not enough to notice. My car has 50,000 miles. Tires? Electric motor?
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I have a 2007 hyundai sonata, this car is my daily driver. I put 180 miles on it a day around trip. Currently has 180,200 miles on it. Last Friday on my trip home when i turned right I heard a metal on metal sound. I slowed down went straight and it went away. Talked to a few people and I think it may be the wheel bearing. Even if I hit a road reflector it starts up. It's the front left wheel. Get on the breaks it goes away.
So my question is... Wheel bearing??? And can I replace the whole hub and fix the problem or do I have to try and press the bearing out?
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I got some coilovers installed last night, they are ksports. i have them on fairly low height as of now but i have noticed every time I hit bumps, I hear a kthunk (metal hitting metal noise) from my front driver side. is it from the coilover nuts itself or something wrong with my control arm? the sound ONLY comes from the front DRIVER side.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Solara 4 cyl. auto. transmission. I recently had the head replaced. Now it is making a metal on metal sound near the drivers side of the engine. It makes the sound during idle, when I change gears, and the sound increases when I rev the engine. What could it be?
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I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
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I replace my brake pads and rotors in the fall of 2015 with EBC parts. Now almost 13,000 miles later, I started hearing grinding and metal-on-metal contact in the front. So I went out and got PowerStop pads to replace the EBC (EBC had way too much brake dust). I took off the front wheels and noticed that the DF pads had about 1/32 left on them, ok I guess its time to change them out. Onto the PF pads, I find that there is almost no material left, in fact I could scrap off what was left of the material. I decided to do a rotation while I am at it and noticed that the rear brake pads on both sides look like I never used them!! Is it really that possible to have 2 stuck calipers, both on the rear at the same time?
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What we have is a 2011 F-350 with the ambulance package (obviously) and it has started making a very annoying sound from the front end. It has been into two different Ford Dealerships and they have not been able to remedy this issue. What happens is, when we are backing and turning, the front end makes a bad metal on metal grinding noise. When going straight down the road no issue just turning while backing. I know this is an ambulance and has the ambulance package but I think from the cab forward should just be all ford right?
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I recently worked on a 2006 with 140K miles that presented with the following symptoms:
The hybrid battery was at 1 bar; the ICE would not start; the car was in Ready, but there were no codes. As I let it roll off the flatbed wrecker in Neutral, it felt lumpy. If you have ever pushed a car (or run out of gas in one) with a manual transmission that was in a high gear, engine off, it felt just like that.
I popped the hood and could see that the engine crank was turning while the car was being pushed in Neutral. What else turns with the wheels? MG2, or more specifically, the MG2 ring gear. What is the only way that the wheels could turn the ICE crank? The planetary carrier pinions were locked to the ring gear.
Surprisingly, while I was looking at things, it did manage to start the ICE pushing it around must have freed the carrier pinions, so I let it charge the hybrid battery. It was basically the worst metal-to-metal noise that I have ever heard! I pulled the drain plug and saw about a teaspoonful of large metal chips on the magnet. The fluid condition itself was very good, not the black factory fill that I am used to seeing come out.
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