I took my tiguan to get the tires changed for winter and the place stripped out one of the locking lugs, how to get it off. They said take it and get it taken off and replaced and they will reimburse me but right now there is no one open to do it, how to get it off?
View 10 RepliesEvery VW I've owned has incorporated a central locking feature (i.e. - You hold the key in the off position, and it closes the windows and sunroof). Does our car not have that option? I though I heard somewhere that if you hold the alarm set button in the key fob that it'll close everytihgn, but that doesn't work.
View 9 RepliesHere is what happens, lock the car with the remote, walk up and pull door handle(outside), the door opens like it was not locked and no alarm sounds. The other three doors are secured as normal and do not open when the car is locked.
Who knows how long this has been the case, I just tried the door by chance the other day and it opened. I was quite surprised. Other note, the car was parked at the airport for two weeks outside at the airport from about dec 20 to after the new year, it has also been very cold her recently.
First thought was that it could be frozen, but we had one day where it was in the 30s and the car was in the sun so if that was the case I thought it would have freed up. No go.
I took the car to the dealer on Wednesday, they call me today, Thursday, and say the tech could not replicate the issue, but that there have been several Passat and Golf in that had frozen locks from water intrusion. They say a field engineer was through the other day and said VW has developed a plastic cover for inside the door to prevent that and will be or has issued a TSB for those models but not the Tiguan yet.
I call the regular guy when I return to work to explain what happened and express my disbelief. He suggested maybe some water got in during the car wash and froze it up again? Maybe... Now I have to call them back on Monday to see if there are any updates on a fix.
What it is? Water intrusion, bad latch, lock module? Anything else I can try aside from waiting around for them to get a clue? We only have on street parking so it would be nice if the car locked.
I've just acquired a 2015 Tiguan TSI.
I'd like to turn the auto locking 'feature' off. By this I mean the doors locking at 7MPH.
I'm a long-time VAG-COM user, and have performed this operation on a couple of previous vehicles, but the Central Locking controller isn't accessible on this car.
VCDS reports 'no response from controller' after three attempts.
I am in the middle of removing my winter wheels and attaching my neuspeed rse14s. I was tightening the last bolt on the last wheel when the wheel lock key must have not been seated in the bolt, popped out and now some of the pattern inside is stripped. It looks to be some type of white metal where the inside of the bolt looks like it is steel so hopefully if I can get a replacement key I can get everything tightened properly.
I am debating on driving the car home in the next little while. The other 4 bolts are obviously fine and have been torqued to spec and I believe I got a fairly good amount of pressure on that final bolt before I stripped the key. I have a short 8 mile commute home and another 8 mile one back tomorrow morning. I can then take it to my local shop and have it removed or snugged down.
Aside from the obvious like the tire coming loose or off is there any other risk of damage to the car or rim? I will obviously take it easy and keep an eye out for any weird vibrations.
I'm removing my idle control valve to clean it. Everything went well until I'm at the last T40 bolt holding it. I go to insert my T40 bolt it doesn't seem to go in. So I'm like oh I guess it was switched to a smaller T so I put a T30 and it's to loose so I'm like aww cmon. Here are 2 pictures (not the best I know) of the bolt in question.
Is it actually stripped or it's some kind of other bolt? I tried a allen but it seems to slip to. If the bolt is stripped.
I stripped the MAF sensor hole on my intake. Any recommendations on how to fix this? Do they make tread inserts that small for that type of thread? I was thinking about jamming some JB weld in there and drilling/tapping that.
I know that unmetered air can get in there if it's not tight so I tried to carefully seal it up with some rtv for now.
I was taking out my plugs 2 of them were soaked with gas and oil and 1 of the other ones just spins. what do I do? The car is a 1995 tbird 133000 miles the car has been sitting for a year and I couldn't get it to start that's why I am pulling the plugs the car ran fine when it was parked....
View 7 Replies2000 honda accord automatic, 4 cylinder. As I unscrew the drain plug of the transmission, i stripped about 2/3 of the hole threads. the bolt threads are OK. what are my choices to fix it? i do not believe there is room to "tap and die" (?). I visited locan NAPA and they suggested me using 2 liquid epoxy. what i am thinking to do first is to use the liquid gasket surrounding my bolt, bolt them in using the remaining 1/3 of the hole thread. Let is sit and cured. it will work?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2000 Grand Caravan and had a Chrysler dealer change the oil in July....just took it in today for another oil change and they told me the oil drain plug just turns - either the plug is stripped or the threads on the pan are stripped....I said that they were the ones who changed the oil last time so if anything happened then they did it....they are saying that over time the threads can become stripped - suggesting that if the threads on the oil pan are stripped then I will have to buy a new oil pan.....I said that I had not touched the oil pan so if something is wrong then they are responsible - the threads don't just strip themselves.
View 19 RepliesI have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
View 6 RepliesI have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
View 5 RepliesIve got a 89 Ford F250 four wheel drive with a 460. Ive had an exhaust leak coming from the driver side, i already installed new manifold gaskets but just the driver side i could still hear a leak but on one of the exhaust ports towards the front there's a stripped bolt, is there any kind of tool of some sort were i can extract that. i barely have room with the power steering hose and steering shaft in the way.
View 3 RepliesI pulled a brake caliper off for inspection, and when I reinstalled it, I managed to strip one of the holes on the caliper bracket when putting one of the 7mm bolts back in - haste makes waste, ya? So, I am trying to find out my options, is it possible to get it re-threaded, helicoiled, or is it toast and I need to buy a new one?
View 2 RepliesI was replacing my spark plugs and one screw holding the ignition coil stripped while another snapped. I have change 3 plugs (the easy one) and could have more problems. I spent half a day trying to drill the screws out to no avail and also noticed the intake manifold is plastic. I was thinking of swapping it out. This would alleviate the broken screw problem and make pulling the plugs easier. It also looks like it's just 8 bolts. Would swapping a new intake manifold in add any performance gains? Is there a manifold others recommend?
View 9 RepliesI have stripped my HPOP fill plug. Any experience on getting one out? And a part # for a new one?
View 10 RepliesWith the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
I've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
View 12 RepliesI am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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