My key won't turn in the ignition and therefore can't start.
Since the problem started I did manage to get it to start maybe 3 times after playing around with it. But, the same problem repeats after shutdown.
Sent my car to the dealer already so waiting to see what they say. If it matters it's a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T 4Motion
Couldn't find what it's called in the OM, it turns on my gauges and my low battery, epc, and CEL was on. But when I start the car, no codes are shown. Previously my Epc and CEL were on, not sure about battery.
View 6 RepliesSo I am hearing a weird noise when I start up my Tig after it's been sitting at least overnight. I'm not sure when it started because if the windows are up when I start I can't hear it inside, so for all I know it's been happening since before the warm weather arrived. But anyway... It's a brief rattle, kind of high and plastic-y, like maybe a half-second long or less, when I first start up. If I turn it off and then start it again, no rattle. Don't hear it again until the Tig has sat for a while.
No CELs or anything or other signs of trouble. It's a 2014 with 24k miles, bought CPO at 19k.
Is there a way to prevent the radio from shutting off when ignition is turned off? I would prefer if it shut off when the keys are removed. The book is not so friendly as far as finding this kind of information.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Tiguan SE, and I am getting Ignition errors on VAGCOM regularly, but intermittent clicking noises coming from the steering column. When I clear the errors, they come back anyway.
Sounds like a relay or something, and I can actually FEEL the clicking when I hold onto the keyfob tightly. I'm sure some of you have run into this before. The clicking is quite random. Wondering if there's a simple fix for this, and what happens if you don't fix it?
I also have the noisy sunroof issue, which I find quite annoying.
I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
View 8 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
View 4 RepliesSo I tried to start the car and the key wouldn't turn. Then I grab the other key... same problem... I double checked to make sure that it was on park and tried to turn the key again ... no dice... I took the first key and then blew at it like how you would blow those NES cartridges... and POOF ... it started... I don't think it was lint....
View 5 RepliesMy tig's battery has ALWAYS been horribly weak since the start. Leave the radio on for 15 mins and the car can hardly turn over the engine. Unfortunately, I'm sort of like how I am with myself and doctors as I am with my car and the dealers - I only go if I absolutely have to. Now the battery is pretty much worthless and more than once its caused me to not be able to start my car (especially in the cold).
I just got back from the dealer this morning and they confirmed it. Of course they blamed my amp installation which I predicted but the issue was always there long before I installed the system (about 8 months ago), I just never took care of it when I should've. They also told me that the battery only has a 2 year 24k mile warranty and I'm now at 25.8k.... Sigh... I am my own worst enemy.
Anyways, I did a search for "battery" in the tiguan forum and amazingly, I didn't find a thread talking about replacement battery options. My buddy/co-worker recommends an optima battery or a "deep cell" battery since I have an amp installed. But I know I can't just go on to amazon and purchase any ole optima battery, it has to fit the rather small battery platform in our Tigs.
For the greater part of the year I don't use the A/C in the car. I find it frustrating that when I want the fan or some heat the A/C will kick in when I press the Auto button. I turn the Climatronic off when I drive with the windows or top down (sunroof in the Tiguan) and it seems silly to have the A/C cycle on for the few seconds it takes me to reach over to press the A/C button to turn the compressor off. I read the manual and checked options in VAG COM but couldn't figure out how to get it to not do that. I accidentally figured it out yesterday.
If you want to go from Off to Auto without activating the A/C compressor, don't press Auto; press Off. Yes, that's counter-intuitive because it's already off. But pressing Off turns the Climatronic on in the auto mode but does NOT automatically turn on the A/C compressor. At least that's how it works in my 2012. And yes, I do run the compressor at least once every month, even in winter, to keep the system lubricated.
When do you guys turn on the fog lights? When there's fog outside, or just for better visibility even on a clear night?
View 11 RepliesI go surfing, camping, tailgating, etc and I've noticed in all of my excursions that the trunk light stays on and doesn't turn off - like the rest of the interior lights - after five minutes or so. I'd rather not drain the battery or burn myself on the bulb cover (I've done the latter). I've scoured the Tiguan manual looking for an answer, but there's nothing in there regarding this issue.
Is there a switch I'm unaware of?
Possible solutions:
1) Change the bulb to an LED type to minimize heat production and lessen battery drain
2) Take the bulb out (risking a 'replace bulb' alert on the MFD). The light is always covered anyway with 'stuff.' I'm considering putting a small battery-powered tap-light on the underside of the trunk cover.
my wife came home today and said that the left rear turn indicator and the right headlight were out on her 2010 tiguan se. Well, upon further inspection I noticed that there is more to it than that. The following lights are out;
drivers side city light
passenger side headlight
passenger side fog light
passenger side turn signal (front)
right rear running light (not the one on the lift gate) inner bulb
running light on the left side of the lift gate
left rear turn indicator
left rear running light (not the one on the lift gate) outer bulb
I'm getting a mildew smell every time I turn on the AC in my Tiguan. Even if the car is warmed up and shut off for 5 minutes, when turned on again, the smell is there. It's a 2012 with only 15k miles and the cabin filter is brand new. I was thinking of getting the mold sprays to apply directly to the vents. What to do to resolve it?
View 9 Replieskey goes in and out of ignition cylinder but can't be turned to start car and release shift lever etc / dealer says replace ignition lock
View 10 RepliesJust yesterday I tried to start my car to get to class and the key refuses to turn. After a few tries moving the steering wheel around it started but just to be safe I decided to turn it off and try again... It didn't work that time. So i got my spare key to try and see if it was the key maybe, the car started after 25 minutes of twisting the steering wheel again and screaming... lots and lots of screaming... hell i think my throat got sore after that. Anyhow, I did the same thing turned it off to try again and ever since that my car has not turned on at all.
The key refuses to turn even 1/3 of the way in, not even enough to get lights on the dashboard. I checked the steering lock, it's not locked. In fact my steering wheel refuses to lock, i can fully turn the wheel both left and right without lock. (Strange, i am not sure what can cause this?)
Car is in Park, unable to move shifter
Key is clean, also unbent, my spare key was completely brand new.
Tried the mechanic's key, nothing there also
Had a neighbor try to spray some Car lock spray, just a tiny bit, nothing new there either.
My battery is fine, from when i turned the car on, all the electric was on ALTHOUGH i have been noticing weird electrical problems such as my blinkers turning on both together, whenever i flick the turn signal right. And my roof opening itself.
Just like the title says, I have a 2013 Tiguan. When I park and turn off the Tiguan, I will hear the the parking brake activate and then turn it back off immediately. It doesn't happen very often, but it does happen.
View 1 RepliesSwapped out the front turn signal bulbs for LEDs? Looking for pics or vids showing the difference between LED and stock.
View 17 RepliesI've just acquired a 2015 Tiguan TSI.
I'd like to turn the auto locking 'feature' off. By this I mean the doors locking at 7MPH.
I'm a long-time VAG-COM user, and have performed this operation on a couple of previous vehicles, but the Central Locking controller isn't accessible on this car.
VCDS reports 'no response from controller' after three attempts.
Got a 2001 Alero 4 cyl. Couple. Almost a month ago that car wouldn't turn over. Did the 10 min passlock procedure and it started. Been OK til today. So now the key won't turn in the ignition. Won't turn at all. Steering wheel is not locked, car is locked in park. Tried to turn it while moving wheel, shifter, etc. to no avail.
Is this a bad ignition lock cylinder? If so, I've read some procedures on how to replace this thing. It looks horrible. And it seems that one needs to turn the key to get the cylinder out. Is this correct? Remember, my key won't turn at all. Also, is there any way to key it to match the existing keys without taking it to a stealer/dealer? I saw a part on Rock Auto that comes with 2 keys. But I guess then the ignition keys would be different from door/trunk.