When my Tig is cold, it seems to be very jerky or sluggish at 1500-1800rpm. There is definitely something happening at that range of RPM , almost seems like it's slipping and is jerky.
I know these 2.0's are notorious for the timing tensioner going (I have an 09) - could this be somehow related? I know that at a start I always get the famous rattle for a few seconds until oil pressure builds.
When I first start me car up, doesn't matter the outdoor temperature it idles terrible jumping up and down. When I go to put it in first gear and attempt to pull out it's very jumpy/jerky because of this rough idle. Once I drive a little bit if I stop it will idle fine. This problem seems be slightly worse when it's wet/raining/humid.
Its throwing codes P1128 Manf Control p0300 multiple misfires and then p0301,0302,0303,0304 which is misfire for that individual cylinder. Also my oil light blinks once in awhile, think that could possible be sep issue though.
I changed plugs, the old ones were really white... I believe that means running lean?
Put in new coil/wires
Gas Filter
Mass air flow sensor
Changed 02 sensors
Also did the seafoam treatment, none of it seemed to work...
Though about possibly changing temp sensor next. I hope it has nothing to do with fuel injectors....
2000 Jetta 2.0l 4cy AEGengine
I picked up my first GTI about 3 months ago, a 2011 Autobahn with about 35,000 miles. I love the way it drives. I had been admiring them from a distance, and was finally able to pick one up. Unfortunately, I've run into a few issues. I'm pretty much a rookie when it comes to the inner workings of cars, but I'm eager to get into it more. My issue is below:
Over the last few weeks, the car has been consistently a little sluggish, and the acceleration has seemed a bit jumpy. I've only used premium gas, and I've been looking for simple things that might be the issue. I live in Houston, and I was wondering if maybe the extreme heat and humidity might be the reason behind the sluggish performance.
Yesterday, I decided I would clean the air intake filter. It has a K&N intake from the previous owner. After cleaning the filter and replacing it, the car wouldn't start. I may have put too much oil on the filter or the humidity may have just caused it to take longer to dry than the instructions on the cleaning kit recommend.
I called my bro-in-law who is the go-to car guy in our family. He recommended that I try starting the engine without the air filter and pull out the MAF sensor and check it out. When I took off the filter, the car started fine. I replaced the filter, then also pulled the MAF sensor to see if it needed to be cleaned. I found that the bottom of the MAF sensor was bent and slightly dented. I could also see a place where the sensor had scratched the bottom of the pipe.
This morning, the car is running a little smoother (better than before, but not as quick as I remember), but the check engine light has come one. Could the performance issues be due to the damage to the MAF sensor? With the check engine light, is that something that is automatically triggered by removing the MAF sensor? Or is there some other issue.
Noticed yesterday a slight whistle from turbo in my 108,000 mile MY2008 3.0tdi ( the engine is new at 90k miles, but the turbo was transferred over).
Its barely audible, a gentle whistle from about 1500 to 1800 rpm on moderate acceleration. It's then lost in general engine/ road noise. Car drives smoothly and pulls as normal.
Only noticeable on quite road surfaces, radio off, etc, and no more than I recall as standard from earlier turbo diesel Audi & BMW cars from the 1990's.
A quick on-line search indicates carbon build-up can be an issue? In the past few years my mileage has dropped way down to maybe 9k miles per year, mostly shorter trips & not as much higher speed motorway as previously.
If this is the potential end in sight for the turbo, can the unit be refurbished.
Experience a grinding noise at around 1500-1800 rpm when driving?
The noise sounds like the 2nd gen valve spring start up but not as loud.
The dealer was able to replicate the noise on my car but they don't know what is causing it.
They called the regional guy to come look at it but he doesn't have a clue where or what is causing the noise.
2015 350fpsort
30k miles
Noise starts at around 10K-15k miles and dealer couldn't replicate it then but I hear it everyday.
Update with video : [URL] ....
I am still trying to debug my 7.3 running sluggish in the 1200-1800 rpm range. The problem is intermittent. I checked the wiring harness under the valve covers to verify they are plugged in and there are no opens in the circuit. I replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the high pressure oil sensor.
This will run fine one time and a few miles down the road it will chug and smoke out the exhaust until I either get into the accelerator or back off and re press the accelerator. Again, it does it intermittently hot or cold.
I ran both a cylinder contribution test and perdels with a Snap On Verus. The cct passes everytime. The perdels have a couple of cylinders 5-6 and 8 fluctuate between 0 and 1.80% with #8 up to 2.5%.
My question is. Do the cylinders in the test correspond to the actual cylinders in the engine? Reason I am asking is the Verus does not follow the firing order on a gas engine. The cct is in order of 1-8 and I have to correlate the cct order to the firing order. Found this out the hard way when I had a bat cop on a 5.4 and replaced it only to have the same cylinder still show not firing.
I got out the graph leads and tested the cylinder and pulled the injector thinking it was bad. Everything showed good but the cct still showed it not firing. I had to unplug each coil and watch the cct to determine what the true cylinder in the test was. It turned out to mimic the firing order so I am asking out of concern that cylinder 3 in the perdels is really cylinder 3 or a different cylinder.
Btw, the perdels all show 0% if the transmission is in drive. I would have thought that a load on the engine would have showed higher perdel percentages with a load on it.
I purchased a 2012 Subaru Forester 2.5X Premium (automatic transmission) in November 2011 with 4 miles on it. Since the get-go it has had issues, but we thought that some of them might work themselves out as we broke the car in (which we were religious about). At the first oil change, we told the dealership about the issues we were experiencing and got the expected "the computer doesn't say anything is wrong" and "we couldn't replicate the problems" excuses. We were told to bring it back if the problems continued. Well, they've gotten worse. Here are what we are experiencing:
- Erratic shifting. I commute from the mountains to the city every day, so I need power from the car. Sometimes, when I'm heading down a hill and I tap the gas slightly to give myself a little boost, the car will suddenly downshift, even though it was sitting at 2500 RPM and didn't need to get any extra power beyond more fuel. Going up the hill is worse, as if you are not actively accelerating (including if you are trying to maintain a constant speed), it will upshift on you and you lose all power, so it will need to downshift to make up for this. It does this constantly for the entire drive home. Everyone who has driven this car in the mountains has experienced this.
- Jerky transmission. When the car shifts, it is super harsh and tends to throw you forward or back. Even when on flat ground it shifts roughly.
- Sluggish acceleration. If I give the car any more gas than I usually do, it hesitates before going anywhere. One day I needed to get over on the highway fast and floored it - it took the car about 2 seconds to respond. Then, yesterday, we were turning on to a highway from a side road and I tried to accelerate (gas about 1/2 way to the floor) and it didn't respond at all for about 5 seconds and the "Check Engine" and the traction control lights started flashing at me. We were on a paved road with no gravel, water, ice, etc and the traction control light began flashing on the straight, not while we were turning. There are also days when it feels like there is an anchor tied to the car and it just doesn't want to give me any umph at all.
- Rough starts. This is the really weird one as there is no rhyme or reason as to when it happens. Some times it takes the car several revolutions to turn over. Oddly, it's never on the really cold (under 20 degrees F) days, but it has happened when it is ~35 degrees and a couple of times when I have started it in the middle of the day to grab lunch and it is ~65 degrees out.
- Running rough. This usually happens after a rough start, but can also happen at other times. It just idles very rough and won't calm down. These are the days I have the worst time with the shifting issues.
I had a 2001 Forester that threw a rod, which forced me to get this car. Everyone who has driven both agrees that the 2001 was quicker, easier to drive, and had more gumption than the 2012. It also had less problems even though I purchased it used in 2005 (until the whole rod-throwing thing, of course). I really want to love my 2012 Forester, but I am so upset that, for the first time in my life I have a new car, and it runs terribly.
2012 Tig S, 7200 Miles. She seems a tad sluggish when starting from a stop (say read light or breaking to a crawl) .. Once she hits 30-35 MPH she's great. I'm comparing this to a 4cyl 2005 Ford Focus, which is my Wifes old car (the tig is her tenative replacement) .. She stated that freeway/highway is good, just city driving isn't that great.
View 5 Repliesi want to upgrade my wife's Tiguan. She's complained that it feels sluggish especially when starting from a full stop. A bit of a delay when she steps on the gas. Just wanted to get people's thoughts on going stage 1 vs right to stage 2. And if stage 2 do you reccommend anything more than just the diownpipe and the tune?
View 15 Replies2010 passat, my DSG seems really jumpy lately. 2010, car has 36k on it. Any adjustments that can be made on the DSG? Car is still under warranty.
View 7 RepliesI'm planning to mention this to the dealer when I get my first oil change, but I've been wondering if this is normal for the 2.0T. When stopping at a red light for example and the car downshifts through 2nd and to 1st, it gets very choppy - almost jumpy as it comes to a stop. Seems like I really have to concentrate to make a perfectly smooth stop.
View 7 RepliesI am having a problem which I can't pin down what it is. When I am driving my 2001 Prius, only after a turn, it seems to get real jumpy and the check engine light will come on during this. I know this is when it comes on because I unplug the starter battery to reset it several times. I've had it put on a computer and it gave a long list of things it could be up to and including replacing the entire gas tank assembly.
I've changed out the gas cap which was one of the things on the list, and I have a charcoal canister I got from the junkyard, but it's a pain to change, so if I don't have to change it, I really would like to not have to if it could be something else. I also put the highest grade of gas in it.
When I accelerate from a stop, the car jumps, slows down, jumps again, etc... I do hear a noise when I accelerate rapidly on the highway, almost like a leak somewhere, but I'm not really sure.
View 3 RepliesI have a '05 Accent GLS Hatchback. 5-speed, manual transmission with about 82 thousand miles on it. I bought the vehicle used about 2 years ago. Ever since I've had it, its been a little jumpy in first gear when going at very low speed. Especially during traffic jams, barely pressing on the gas will cause it to jump a little bit until you put the pedal down further. Lately its starting to do something similar when it 4th gear. When you push your foot on the pedal it jumps a little and does the same thing when you take the foot off the pedal. What may be the cause? O2 or TPS sensor maybe? It did give me a flashing check engine light for about 10 seconds this morning but it hasn't done that since.
View 5 RepliesWhen I press on gas petal the car hesitates and seems like it is having trouble accelerating. It also does this when I accelerate up a hill actually it is worse. The mechanic changed by spark plugs and coil pack and it is still doing it. What could be the problem.
View 4 RepliesMore lately I've been noticing that when moving slowly, if going over a bump in the road of any sort, the steering wheel seems loose and the car wants to jump to one side or another slightly.
Picture moving straight ahead, and hit a rough section of or a small pot hole, and the steering wheel will move by itself to the left or the right quite a bit. I haven't noticed anything on the highway.
What can cause that? How should I go about describing to the service advisor so that it doesn't seem trivial? Last thing I want is a steering rack or major front suspension component slowly dying right after my warranty runs out. All I know is that it has struck me as "hey this doesn't feel normal".
Am I just being overly sensitive now that my powertrain warranty has months left on the clock, or does this sound like a legitimate concern? The last few things I've had them look into at the dealership during other service visits have been returned to me as "no problem founds" and I'm starting to feel like I'm just going crazy.
After some additional googling, it seems like I'm describing something commonly called "bump steer"... how much bump steer is normal for this car with stock suspension, I don't know... all I know is that I seem to have become acutely attuned to it whereas I never noticed it before. Hopefully I don't get the "we didn't notice anything wrong" again if I mention it, and whatever it is, is covered.
Notice roughness/jumpiness in the transmission when slowing to a stop, or crawling along (like in a shopping center)? it's quite evident on my car, and perhaps i just have a problem that nobody else feels.
It's as if the tranny is downshifting when slowing to a stop, and I can really feel it...makes it difficult to come to a smooth stop. and then if I'm moving very very slowly in heavy traffic, it seems to be "wandering" between 1st & 2nd...something like that...and it's very jumpy. Not smooth at all.
I realize that Lexus may come up with some reprogramming for trannies (that happened on my '01 GS, and it made a big difference).
I bought my 2006 Prius used and I had just put it over 100,000 miles. The dearlership has replaced the HV battery under warranty and suggest that I replace a slightly leaking waterpump and cracked belt, said nothing about the transmission.
My concern is, my transmission. When the car switches from electric to the gas engine, the car jumps a little bit, and it's an obvious and not smooth shift. And when I put it in Park, the vehicle rocks back and forth a bit, shifting a few inches before coming to a still position. Is this standard with other 2006 Prius? I drove my friends 2007 Prius and the shift seems smooth and it doesnt rock when you put it in park. Should I be concerned and if so what should I do?
Got a 13 f150 with the 5.0. I bought it used with about 14 thous kms, now it has 17. Ever since I owned it I noticed the idle was a bit jumpy warm or cold. I didn't really pay any attention to it as it wasnt throwing a CEL or anything but now that I have a roush exhaust and intake I have started to notice it a lot more....not that its worse but at idle my truck sounds like a boat. Weird comparison I know. It seems like it'll jump within +/- 200 rpm @ idle which IIRC is 1K rpm.
View 7 RepliesI've put in a new Delco compressor, oriface tube, rear expansion valve and dryer. I pulled out the condensor, it did not seem to have any restriction. Same for all the lines, low muffler is cool, high muffler hot.
At idle I get 42/150, at 1800rpm 30-32/155, this at 80 degrees.
The truck cooled great (30/290) before sitting a couple months, then I had similar problems. I thought the compressor or clutch was weak, so I replaced it. The original cooling wasn't as good with the rear air on, so I changed the valve there as well.
I had a few black specs on the O-Tube.
There is so slight a difference in the high pressure at low and high RPM's, I wondering if there is a pressure controlling device outside of the high and low cut -off switches. There is the pressure valve in the back of the compressor, one that gets moved into the new one, but I understand it's another emergency relief.
I brought my truck to ford because I thought I was having transmission issues, but they are telling me that my transmission is fine, that I need to replace my number 8 injector. None of these symptoms sound like injector issues:
-Shifting from park to reverse, takes a couple seconds to shift, then jumps.
-Coming to a very slow stop, truck is a little jumpy at around 2-3 mph