Tiguan :: Intake Manifold Failure - CEL Flashing / Rough Idle
Aug 25, 2012
Well my 39000 mile run of zero faults ended with a intake manifold failure. The check engine light came on whilst on a Yosemite trip, I checked fluids, etc, car was driving ok, but when I reached my destination I noticed a rough idle. Next time I started it a couple of days later the check engine light was flashing, and it was a rougher idle, so I knew enough not to drive it.
The closest dealer fixed it (no cost to me) under the power-train warranty (nice customer care from Michaels Fresno plus they had the parts in stock).
I learned a couple of things being stranded:
1) Problems happen but they can be accurately diagnosed and fixed.
2) $150 coverage for towing on my insurance policy doesn't get you very far. But I wanted to take it to VW to simplify any warranty work and have it repaired quickly, so I paid quite a bit of overage.
3) Tow trucks don't carry a family of 4, so the logistics of getting a rental car to get my family home wasn't simple.
4) If you have to be stranded, Yosemite valley with the free shuttles, is a pleasant place to be.
5) If you need a reminder just how good a car the Tig is to drive, just try renting a Jeep Compass for few days...
Diags for the record:
GFF found 9 faults: P0170, P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0507, P068A, P2015. Found arm for intake runner flap came apart causing vacuum leak that caused engine misfires.
Parts
1 x 06J-133-201-AS Manifold
4 x 06J-998-907-B Repair Kit
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I was in the process of troubleshooting a quick to die battery tonight (ignition on and if you put a load on it like radio and headlights, a few minutes later it needs the booster pack. ) During this time I discovered a loud buzzing coming from the top part of the intake manifold (ignition on but engine not running.) As my battery drains, this noises this thing makes change. I started the car up and let it run for a sec, then back off/ignition back on and it stopped buzzing.
On a side note, the car has been idling like dump for the last month or so. Sometimes it's smooth as silk as it always has been when stopped at a light, other times you can feel a rapid vibration in the steering wheel, seats, and floor. To the point where stuff rattles sometimes. It's definitely at its worst when the engine is cold. I was hoping it was worn out plugs, but they've just been replaced and it still doesn't run right.
Linked is a video, hopefully it works. Is this the IAC valve?
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Today I was on my way back home from a weekend trip to see family when the CEL came on. The car was running fine no problems (we had driven 200 miles). Gas mileage was good, good power, no weird noises, engine temp was fine (it was 100 degrees outside). But being how the car has 39k on it and its the most expensive thing I own; I pulled over and had autozone scan it for me. It came up as Intake Manifold Sensor. I have never worked on this car but Im going to at some point, I'll replace it myself if it isn't to hard. I am wondering if it is as simple as replacing the sensor or could there be an underlying issue like a blown intake manifold gasket (like i said the car was running fine though)?
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So about 2k miles ago I went to start my tiguan (cold start) and it starts to idle very rough, barely keeps itself from stalling so I take it to the dealer the next day and they tell me the car needs carbon cleaning and a rear main seal and wanted about $2500 to do all this. I declined the service since it was a lot of money to just drop then and there. I am wondering/worried there are other issues along with the rear seal leaking or if its just something else causing the issue. I looked under the car and most of the bottom of the motor is soaked in oil. I have not done the auto trans service on the car and was wondering if that could have had anything to do with the leak. The other thing about it is once the car gets up to temp it runs totally fine. AND once in a while it will start up fine, no rough idle. That probably happens about 20% of the time (I do at least 4 starts throughout the day). The car current has 92k miles on it. What it could be/what I should do?
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Well, I had a check engine light that lasted only three days then it cleared itself without any intervention. I checked it with a vag-com and I discovered there was an issue with the intake manifold control. I ended up bringing it to the dealer since it is a fairly new passat, and the service department informed me that the Intake Manifold Runner Control needed to be replaced.
Below were the fault codes.
3 Faults Found:
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 33815 km
Time Indication: 0
[Code] .....
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I have a 2011 Tiguan S 4Motion with just over 63k Miles which for the most part has been problem free and great to drive since I leased it at 40k miles. About 2 weeks ago my CEL came on and I used the Torque app on my phone to check the code and it was the apparently well known P2015 intake manifold runner position switch code. The car was running perfectly fine so I cleared the code and it stayed off for about a week before coming back on with the same fault again yesterday. I have a couple of questions for the much more knowledgeable than I people in this forum around this code.
First - I've read in several places that VW has placed an extended warranty on the manifold and fuel injectors for the 2.0 TSI and that this code is usually an indicator that the manifold needs to be replaced under this warranty. What I haven't found though is conclusive info on is whether the 2.0T in my 2011 Tiguan is covered under this extended warranty. Since this code so conveniently is popping up just 3k miles past the end of my 60K mark, I'd like to know this. I leased the car from Enterprise, not a dealer so I'm worried that whatever dealer I take it too will try to bend me over on the service so the knowledge that the manifold is still covered would be at least some comfort.
Second - I won't be able to get it in to a service department until mid next week and I have a 300 mile trip to make this weekend. The car is driving fine as far as I can tell so I'm not overly concerned. I do my own basic maintenance i.e. oil changes, plugs/coil packs etc. but I'm thinking changing the manifold would be a little bit out of my comfort zone..
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I have a chamfering noise coming from my intake manifold on idle. sometimes its there and sometimes its not, it goes away with any application of throttle.
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I have been having some issues with my 97 ford f150 4.6 liter, started out running rough, then hydrolocked with no serious damage, blown intake manifold gasket, fixed that, alternator over charging do to bad voltage regulator, fixed that. and airbag code 52, still working on that, as well as failure to connect when trying to do diagnostic scan. now I am wondering if the engine diagnostic is still even working. still running good just a very slight vibration when warms up. I am not getting any code. or my check engine light is not showing any codes. What I want to do is force a code. What would be the safest way to force a code or force engine light to give a code?
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I am checking my car parameters at idle. I was comparing the values of intake manifold pressure and vacuum. When I press accelerator or give gas means throttle plate opening my manifold pressure decreases and vacuum increases, I hear when throttle plate open more air come inside so manifold pressure must be increases and vacuum decreases. Am I right? if so which part will be culprit of this action?
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2012 dodge caravan. Bought it used last year with 27k miles. Day after I bought it, it threw a misfire code. They said the spark plugs got wet when they washed the under carriage. Dried it out, cleared the code.
For the next month the car went from a slight shimmy during idle...progressed to strong shaking (its shakes, pauses, shakes...etc.) Finally another misfire code. Took it in and this is what the report says.
"Cylinder misfire on #4. Performed compression test found #4 cylinder compression at 100 PSI. All other cylinders at 150 PSI. Recommend to replace front cylinder head. Has burned exhaust valve seat. Replaced left cylinder head assembly."
About 2 months later check engine light comes on, car is over heating. Coolant bone dry. Replaced coolant, took it back in. They replaced the intake manifold?? Been slowly losing coolant. I have to replace it about every 2-3 months. I notice the car shakes worse when the coolant is low, with minimal shaking when coolant is replaced. Finally took it back in a few week ago when my husband got back from deployment. They said it was a loose bolt on the intake manifold causing the slow leak. They couldn't verify my complaint about the shaking.
Now, car still shaking. Its minimal on start up, gets worse the longer I idle. I can only feel the shaking while in idle. If I restart the car it goes back to minimal before progressing again. Took it back in. They verified the shaking, hooked it up to a computer, no codes or anything. Told me its normal. It CANT be normal, right? I neglected to check the coolant level before I took it back in. I left it with them saying they will look it over, but they don't think anything is wrong. This is exactly how it progressed when they ended up replacing the cylinder head. I have 1k miles left on the warranty, and am moving in 2 weeks 1500 miles away. I don't have time to wait for another code.
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I have an exhaust leak between the manifold and turbo ( in the flex part of the pipe) on my 2008 6.4 f250 would this create rough idle when at operating temp?
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New 2012 Tiguan S with a manual, 800 miles and the check engine light comes. Seems to idle a little rough, at least the idle seems to fluctuate a bit. The real disappointing part is I took it in to the dealer expecting an easy fix within an hour, its now been at the dealer for 2.5 days and they'll have it over the weekend as well. They tried putting several parts in it, still didn't fix it. They called VW who said pull out the new parts, put back the old parts, and apply some software update. Dealer did that, still not fixed.
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09 tiguan that was bought in august of this year as a certified pre owned and has a warranty on it until 60k miles or 2014. Recently there has been some issues with the car stalling out and sometimes having a very low rough idle and then the idle will pick up and the car will surge slightly then it will be fine for a while. I have my suspicions that it is because this is my fiance's car and she has been putting mid grade gas in the car lately. Also we cannot get the fuel door to open now is there any tricks on getting it open?
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My new 2015 Sonata 2.0Twith 8000 miles started running oddly about 2 weeks ago. Rough idle with engine "sputtering". Erratic acceleration -- merging into traffic on highway and car not going over 40mph, even with gas pedal all the way to the floor. On deceleration, clunky down-shifting. Very hard to drive. Dealership first came back with diagnosis of "buildup on throttle plate" (Note - I use only high-quality gas AND only have 8000 miles on car, 3500 or that being one long highway road trip). Then, after 3 days of diagnosis, they say I need 2 new fuel injectors I am baffled how a new car can have either buildup or failed fuel injectors...
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I have 11 tiguan 2.0T. When I start it up is runs rough below 1200 rpm. The check engine light starts flashing. The codes are all 4 cylinders for random cylinder misfire. When I go drive it around the roughness calms down but doesn't go away and the idle will start jumping up and down. It goes to 1500 back to 800. Then 1700 back to 800. It had even hit 2400 once. I have changed the pcv about 2 months ago. I checked it and it looks fine. One place said maf. I cleaned it and no change. Running out of options.
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Turned the key on my 2002 MC SS, V6, 3.8L, and the Intake Manifold exploded.
Intake Manifold Exploding on a GM V6, 3.8L? It sounded like a 12ga shotgun. Fortunately no one was looking into the engine compartment at the time as they likely would have been killed given the amount of shrapnel from this explosion. Note that the explosion was powerful enough to blow off the oil cap, which is screwed on with very thick threads.
The vehicle was at my mechanics at time and in his forty years he's not seen an intake manifold explode save for those residing on Top Fuel or Funny Cars.
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One of the nozzles on the back of my intake manifold broke off. I don't know how to better explain it. The ones the back of the manifold closest to the firewall there are several hoses that hook to the manifold. The second one from the left broke.
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I'm having a problem with the intake manifold shifter not working on my r32. I've tried all of the normal fixes, the shifter rod itself and the vacuum diaphragm that opens it are both functioning correctly, all of the vacuum lines are new and not leaking. Connecting vacuum directly to the diaphragm causes the shifter to immediately open. I've tried 3 different solenoids with the same result, all open when 12v is directly applied, but the manifold doesn't open at it's RPM point like it's supposed to. The solenoid sees a constant ~11v under all conditions, regardless of engine RPM. I've traced this wire back to the ECU and confirmed it's not damaged. No CEL other than for the SAI missing.
At this point, I'm assuming whatever circuit that controls this in the ECU is fried (cruise control doesn't work either.) I have an extra 24v vr6 (2.8) ECU sitting around which from what I've read uses the same hardware, just a different flash. This may be a stupid question, but if I were to take this to UM to get a performance flash, would I be able to basically overwrite the 2.8 ECU and make this work in the R? Would there be any issues with the immobilizer?
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My husband has a 2011 GTI, which has just hit the 40k mileage mark. His CEL started coming on in March, but we figured it was due to him not tightening the gas cap enough, as he'd open and relock the gas cap, and the CEL would go away within a few restarts of the car. Took it into the stealership last week, got the 40k service (which was a bit of a rip-off in itself), and then got told the manifold was bad.
This is the exact text for the invoice: "Checked the vehicle for codes and found code P2015. Traced the intermittent failure to the intake manifold valve flap sensor failing."
I've seen a lot of posts around this problem, for many models and years, but it seems like most people managed to get it repaired under warranty / TSB. So I have three questions:
1. In the OBD codes, does it store date as well as code? In other words, is there a way to prove that this failed under 36k miles?
2. What's the process for getting this escalated to VWOA customer care, since I feel this should be taken care of under warranty?
3. The dealership we took the car to (which is not where we purchased the car, but is just closer to home) was shady, and the guy we worked with was, to say it nicely, a jerk.
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Can oil leak out of Intake Manifold? i have Oil around lower intake manifold gasket. is this serious issue?
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I did not get the specific cel code but its what the guy told me at autozone.
Long story short. Washed engine, let sit for about 30 mins. Car started with flashing CEL and was "puttering" and very rough idle. Drove home took intake off and replace with stock, took spark plugs out and they were not wet. Then let it sit for about 15 mins. Started just fine. No CEL at all.
The accent saved the CEL and the guy told me that Cylinder 1 had a misfire.
My question is, should I do anything now even though the car seems to be running ok?
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