Tiguan :: Installation Of 100w And 80w Respectively Will Blow Fuse / Melts The Housing?
Mar 18, 2012
Wondering what the max (safe) wattage is for the H7's and 9006's? If I install 100w and 80w respectively, am I at risk for blowing fuses and/or panels? Or melting the housing?
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My water pump housing is leaking. My 09 is well out of warranty but that's not really my question. I would like to know what you did when you replaced your water pump. did you upgrade to a metal impeller pump such as the GEBA brand?
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Looking to have it installed? I bought it but I haven't installed it yet...
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Installed recirculating cc with PVC plate fills up with eng. oil 60mls. Rosstech shows no codes. Performance is An-ok. no oil consumption, boost gauge shows no vac. leak. We are at a loss. I noticed from the PVC system explanation that there is a check valve in the honeycomb insert in the oil pan to prevent eng. oil intake under high vac. If that valve fails could that cause my problem? With or without the cc there are no performance issues.
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I just recently installed an intake onto my fiances 09 tiguan and now the esp light is on and the power steering light is on. I have no clue how this impacted, how to get this straightened out. Should I put the airbox on?
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Every couple of days, my 20 amp cigarette lighter fuse (#13) will blow. It is connected to the lumbar seats, the cigarette lighter, the interior door lock switches (not the key FOB - that is separate). I've tried using a 25 amp and that didn't work.
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I bought a LED footwell kit and was planning on *trying* to install it.
For reference, this is the kit i bought : Expandable Million Color SMD Interior Light Kit
Anyways, i bought an "add-a-circuit" to make it easier - basically it allows the kit to plug into an existing fuse (see )
I'd like to choose a 'switched' 12V source in the fuse box to connect this to. ideally I'd like to have the interior lights turn on when I switch on my headlights! I don't want the source/fuse i pick to be "always on".
I was looking at the fuse box description in the manual for the driver's side instrument panel - the number 1 - tail - 10A - parking lights, side marker lights, etc. - is that the one i should use? i don't know how A relates to 12V sources... shrugs
i don't know anything about wiring.
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I tried installing my new DDMTuning 35W 6000K HID headlights with relay harness. No issues until I went to turn the car on and actually power them up. Neither side would work. I checked my power connection, ground, in-line fuse, swapped out the relay, tried without the harness, and nothing worked. I tried putting the stock bulbs back in and I found out they wouldn't turn on either.
I found the issue to be a blown 20 amp fuse in slot 23 (see pic). I replaced it and tried to turn the car on with the HIDs and it blew again. I hooked the stock lights back up and they seem to work fine now with another new fuse. The fuse description says H/LP LO and HID LO LH. Why this fuse is blowing. I am wondering if I just need a higher amperage fuse because of the HID power (in line for harness is 30 amp) or if something else is the culprit. I'm stumped.
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I have a dead battery while trying to jump; my car I blew my alternator fuse. I had a friend try to change the fuse but he was unable to get all of the fuse.How can I get all the fuse out to put a new fuse in?
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When I plug up my phone and charger cord to either power outlet on my 2009 Camry the fuse blows. The charger cord and phone works in my other vehicles. I have checked other power cords in the Camry and it also blows the fuses. Would this be a relay that controls the fuses?
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Ok, is it possible to blow a fuze if the block heater is still plugged in when starting? Almost did this the other day and wondered if its possible to cause a short or something.
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I'm having an issue on my 2008 f250 power stroke. My telescoping mirrors are causing the fuse to blow instantly when I hit the button. Where to start looking for a short?
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Out of nowhere my fuse #30 has started blowing - thats the one that supplies the DC outlet points, or cigarette lighter plugs. And no, there are no pennies stuck in the outlets!
I've removed and unplugged all 4 outlet points from the loom, thats the one on the dash, inside the center console, behind the center console and lastly the one in the boot. Still a total dead short.
I've disconnected the 220v AC inverter thats behind the center console, and still measure a dead short.
What else does this fuse/line supply? The only things not working are my lighter plugs, everything else seems fine. Any wiring diagram perhaps - I'm sure there hasn't been much of a change in interior wiring over the years.
2009 2.0 TDi
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Which one is the Fuse for Fuel Pump on a 2014 VW Tiguan?
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While driving the other day, the instrument panel flashed showing a bulb out. I pulled into my local auto parts store down the street figuring i blew a bulb, no biggie. When i got out all bulbs were working... So i let it go and figured the light would go out, and it did a couple hours later. Yesterday when my girlfriend was driving the tig home from work she called saying that the light came on again but the whole right headlight was out... Hi beam, low beam, fog light and turn signal.
So when she got home i checked the bulbs, they were fine so i figured i would pop the fuse box and what do you know the fuse for the right headlight was melted. the fuse below it (horn) was also melted but still worked. So i drove it to West Broad VW (where i bought it) told them what was wrong and sure enough they said the fuse box needed to be replaced. The worst part about it was the few technicians that were in the service area both new what was wrong when i pulled up... and said it has been a common problem for our tigs and jettas...
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Have had my '11 Tiguan with 46K miles on in it into the dealer twice now for this issue. The first time they diagnosed the issue as a faulty control module, ordered one from Germany, installed in and the issue went a way for a while...
Over the past week the problem has come back with a vengeance. The Tiguan would complain that various headlights, fog lights, blinkers and backup lights were out. Sometimes turning on the lights and turning on the high beams would fix the issues, other times turning off the car and starting it again was necessary. Went into the dealership today and the issue was diagnosed as a burned fuse block.
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Last week I hauled my camper (2000 Thor Citation @ about 10,000 lbs) to Moosehead Lake. On the trip to and from I experienced a few problems. Tow/haul was engaged all three times. Trucks got just over 90,000 mi.
1) When shifting, the truck would occasionally stutter, like a gas engine when it misfires. Seemed like it would usually happen when transitioning from a slight down hill to an up hill.
2) Once, after a long up hill pull, as it crested the top, the truck slammed into the next gear, hard.
3)Once, going down hill, the trans wouldn't shift into O.D. until I took the rpm's up to 3000 then let off the throttle. No, I did not touch the brake prior to this.
Figure the tranny's gonna need a rebuild soon. What kind of upgraded parts does the wise and all knowing FTE wizards think I should be looking at? I tow the camper a lot during the summer so I want a trans that will hold up to the abuse. I'm probably stuck with this thing for a few more years.
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I'm at the end of my rope! My 2005 Ford Five Hundred Limited has a constant problem with the A/C system and overheating. In the last year I've replaced the compress, expansion valve, dryer FOUR times. They have replaced the condenser, blower motor, and added Freon, and checked for leaks. It will blow cold when running fast and then blow hot. They have replaced belts pulleys, They have replaced the thermostat, fans, coolant reservoir, hoses. and it still overheats. I've taken it to 4 difference mechanics including two dealerships. No one can seem to fix this problem.
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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I was having intermittent fuel pressure problems. I replaced fuel pump and relay and was still having the problem. A figured out that wiggling the 20 amp fuse would cause the intermittent. Looking at the connections for the fuse, I can see one side was damaged. I figured I could pull the connector out from the back and fix the connector, but when I took the back off (see picture) I have a purple wire (labeled 1) going to one side of the fuse and a multi-connector (labeled 2) from one wire going to the other side. My luck, it's the multi-connector side that is damaged.
It Looks like the multi-connector goes to the Black and yellow wire. Instead of replacing the box, I figured I could just create an inline fuse for the fuel pump with the purple wire and splice it into the Black/yellow wire.
I can't see any problem with this, just looking for a second opinion. And I'm not sure how it would effect the relay. I can't find a fuse panel wiring diagram anywhere.
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I had an engine oil leak, took it to dealer and was told filter housing is broken, I bought a new housing (part#06D115408B) replaced it but the oil is still leaking from the housing. I feel like it might be the part where the housing fits in the engine.
Also whenever I buy filter it comes with a gasket and an o-ring. I only replace the gasket in the housing and have never used the o-ring. Is the leak because of that? if the o-ring should be used, where does it go?
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