Couldn't find what it's called in the OM, it turns on my gauges and my low battery, epc, and CEL was on. But when I start the car, no codes are shown. Previously my Epc and CEL were on, not sure about battery.
View 6 RepliesMy key won't turn in the ignition and therefore can't start.
Since the problem started I did manage to get it to start maybe 3 times after playing around with it. But, the same problem repeats after shutdown.
Sent my car to the dealer already so waiting to see what they say. If it matters it's a 2009 Tiguan 2.0T 4Motion
I parked my 2011 Sonata yesterday and turned it off.
This morning, I tried turning the car on, but there is no ignition. I can put in the key, turn it to accessory mode (the dash lights up), but once I turn the key further to ignition nothing happens (no noise). I don't think I have a dead battery.
My brother had this problem once before. It has something to do with the fact that the gear is not in 'P'. He managed to start it after he called roadside assistance, but I don't know what he did. The gear is currently at 'P'. I was supposed to go and get my range switch replaced today to fix this but I can't get it out of the driveway.
What I need to do to get it to start?
This is my experience while test driving one that was traded back in very quickly. It had about 1000 miles on it. I've read some of the complaints about the transmission on the 2012 and how it's suffered for the sake of fuel economy. Yet some people are perfectly happy with their 2012's.
I remember seeing in the complaints that driving in sport mode made the Tiguan drive more like the previous model years. I have never owned a Tiguan but in this test drive regular "D" definitely felt better/smoother though a little underpowered at times.
Maybe I just don't know anything about sport mode but it was loud without any real pickup at certain points (I guess that's call hesitation). Is it supposed to be noisy and act this way?
I was driving around some very steep hilly highways recently. I have tried this in both cruise control and normal coasting.
I noticed that the Tiguan will automatically downshift when going down a steep enough incline and a certain higher speed is automatically reached. Whether that is based on what was set by your cruise control, or even when letting the car coast down by releasing the gas peddle, it will still reach a point of downshifting automatically.
What I hate about it though is that this downshifting causes the engine to suddenly rev very high RPMs. Its also pretty loud at that point. That's bad for the transmission system right?
Usually in automatic mode driving, gear shifts up at around 2,500 RPM (mostly around 2000 RPM point). But when you are going downhill in a steep incline, the Tiguan automatically goes to a lower gear causing the RPM to shoot right up. I've had mine go up to 4,000 RPM downhill and the engine screams and spins really fast as you can clearly hear. It of course does the job of keeping the car at a certain speed, but is this bad for the transmission?
I mean, I prefer pressing on the breaks to control speed downhill. Break pads are cheap and easily replaceable. Transmission strain and failure is a whole other business. So I would prefer the strain be placed on my breaks and not my transmission system for the purposes of controlling speeds downhill. The latter failure mode will be the case if they rely on the transmission to control speed downhill.
So what is a "happy RPM" for the engine anyway? What RPM is the 2.0T engine at its most efficient?
So I am hearing a weird noise when I start up my Tig after it's been sitting at least overnight. I'm not sure when it started because if the windows are up when I start I can't hear it inside, so for all I know it's been happening since before the warm weather arrived. But anyway... It's a brief rattle, kind of high and plastic-y, like maybe a half-second long or less, when I first start up. If I turn it off and then start it again, no rattle. Don't hear it again until the Tig has sat for a while.
No CELs or anything or other signs of trouble. It's a 2014 with 24k miles, bought CPO at 19k.
Is there a way to prevent the radio from shutting off when ignition is turned off? I would prefer if it shut off when the keys are removed. The book is not so friendly as far as finding this kind of information.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Tiguan SE, and I am getting Ignition errors on VAGCOM regularly, but intermittent clicking noises coming from the steering column. When I clear the errors, they come back anyway.
Sounds like a relay or something, and I can actually FEEL the clicking when I hold onto the keyfob tightly. I'm sure some of you have run into this before. The clicking is quite random. Wondering if there's a simple fix for this, and what happens if you don't fix it?
I also have the noisy sunroof issue, which I find quite annoying.
I have a 1.8T 2001.5 Passat, Tiptronic with an Upsolute chip. I recently had the turbo replaced (under warranty for the same stock one). After the turbo reinstall, the car did this after driving it a while: I ran it hard and spooled up the turbo good a few times, and then parked the car. I would wait 45-60 minutes. When I tried to start the car it wouldn't start for like 8 seconds on the ignition, and then it would start but in EPC mode!
The first time this happened I panicked, drove it home (just to make sure I got home.) I then tried again and it started fine and no more EPC. Also, if I wait much longer like 3 or 4 hours, it never happens. Since the first time, this has happened like 10 times or more. But now, I just turn it off right after it starts in EPC, turn it again, and it works fine.
The first time it happened I got some kind of codes, but I didn't save them and cleared them. I figured since it happened again, I would get the codes again, but they're not there. I took it to the dealer, and of course, they can't duplicate it. The codes where like speed implausible or not there or something but I can't remember now.
The master mechanic told me to vapor lock was not possible because I had no carb, but I seem to remember that my '83 fuel injects 280ZX turbo had a special cooler fan to cool down the injectors in the event of vapor lock after the car shut down so I'm pretty sure this is possible with injectors. I mean, the explanation for that fan was so that if the remaining fuel in the injectors would get so hot after car shut down that it would vaporize the fuel and the pressure would lock up the injectors.
Last night, I was cruising at 35mph and the car suddenly stalled. All the lights popped up (red triangle, CEL and PROBLEM on the the center display) and I pulled over to a stop. I tried restarting it immediately, but the car would not go into ignition mode. The car was driving fine up to that point. No maintenance or work was performed on the car recently. When in accessory mode, all the lights, radio, etc. worked. I disconnected the 12v battery for 5 minutes but it had no affect. I searched the forum, but did not find a thread about this occurrence. I rented a OBDII scanner but it needs to get into the IGN mode to read the codes! What is the problem? A simple faulty switch or relay?
Video : [URL] ....
I have a 93 subaru impreza manual that when I turn the key on and push in the clutch it wont turn over. The coolant fans kick on and stay on and so i retrieved the codes and the coolant temp sensor was the dtc so I replaced the sensor and cleared the code but the fans still come on and the engine still does nothing. Also I can gear clicking noises throughout the engine compartment and dont know where its coming from.
View 8 RepliesMy 2002 F150 Screw has been giving me issues when trying to start it for the last month. Sometimes it will start sometimes it won't. When I turn the ignition on the gauges all seem normal, the theft light turns solid then goes out, but engine will turn over but not start. Sometimes it will start if I leave the ignition on for 20 seconds then pull the key and try again. (this doesn't always work). I have disconnected the battery for about 2 minutes this usually works but not always.
Sometimes it will start first time with no issues. Once the the engine fires it runs fine. Another symptom is when I shut the engine off, pull the key and open the door, the chime telling me that the key is still in the ignition sounds. (but the key is in my hand)
I put a new battery in yesterday to rule that out and because the old one seemed to be getting weak. (starting issues didn't go away). I don't want to put 300+ into a fuel pump without being sure that's the problem.
We have a 2004 2.4L 4 cyl Santa Fe. Turn ignition key get a click and engine will not turn over. Push key in harder and engine may start fine. If it is the key ignition switch or something else. is there somewhere I can look to see how to remove the ignition switch?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2011 Gen3. It's driving perfectly. Its charging when being driven by the ICE as normal. Its also charging by regen braking. However, when the car is 'stationary' with full EV battery- and when it looses its charge with lights, fans etc, it cuts out. When the battery indicator drops to the normal 2 bars, the engine falls back to 'ignition on' mode (i.e the dash lights illuminate and the steering goes heavy)
View 11 RepliesMy passenger side HL occasionally doesn't come alive at ignition when the light control dial/switch is set on Auto mode. My dealer cannot duplicate the problem.
View 3 RepliesSo I tried to start the car and the key wouldn't turn. Then I grab the other key... same problem... I double checked to make sure that it was on park and tried to turn the key again ... no dice... I took the first key and then blew at it like how you would blow those NES cartridges... and POOF ... it started... I don't think it was lint....
View 5 RepliesMy tig's battery has ALWAYS been horribly weak since the start. Leave the radio on for 15 mins and the car can hardly turn over the engine. Unfortunately, I'm sort of like how I am with myself and doctors as I am with my car and the dealers - I only go if I absolutely have to. Now the battery is pretty much worthless and more than once its caused me to not be able to start my car (especially in the cold).
I just got back from the dealer this morning and they confirmed it. Of course they blamed my amp installation which I predicted but the issue was always there long before I installed the system (about 8 months ago), I just never took care of it when I should've. They also told me that the battery only has a 2 year 24k mile warranty and I'm now at 25.8k.... Sigh... I am my own worst enemy.
Anyways, I did a search for "battery" in the tiguan forum and amazingly, I didn't find a thread talking about replacement battery options. My buddy/co-worker recommends an optima battery or a "deep cell" battery since I have an amp installed. But I know I can't just go on to amazon and purchase any ole optima battery, it has to fit the rather small battery platform in our Tigs.
For the greater part of the year I don't use the A/C in the car. I find it frustrating that when I want the fan or some heat the A/C will kick in when I press the Auto button. I turn the Climatronic off when I drive with the windows or top down (sunroof in the Tiguan) and it seems silly to have the A/C cycle on for the few seconds it takes me to reach over to press the A/C button to turn the compressor off. I read the manual and checked options in VAG COM but couldn't figure out how to get it to not do that. I accidentally figured it out yesterday.
If you want to go from Off to Auto without activating the A/C compressor, don't press Auto; press Off. Yes, that's counter-intuitive because it's already off. But pressing Off turns the Climatronic on in the auto mode but does NOT automatically turn on the A/C compressor. At least that's how it works in my 2012. And yes, I do run the compressor at least once every month, even in winter, to keep the system lubricated.
When do you guys turn on the fog lights? When there's fog outside, or just for better visibility even on a clear night?
View 11 RepliesI go surfing, camping, tailgating, etc and I've noticed in all of my excursions that the trunk light stays on and doesn't turn off - like the rest of the interior lights - after five minutes or so. I'd rather not drain the battery or burn myself on the bulb cover (I've done the latter). I've scoured the Tiguan manual looking for an answer, but there's nothing in there regarding this issue.
Is there a switch I'm unaware of?
Possible solutions:
1) Change the bulb to an LED type to minimize heat production and lessen battery drain
2) Take the bulb out (risking a 'replace bulb' alert on the MFD). The light is always covered anyway with 'stuff.' I'm considering putting a small battery-powered tap-light on the underside of the trunk cover.
When turn on the start on my car the engine kicks in, how come the Ev mode doesn't turn on the I select it?
View 13 Replies