Tiguan :: How To Retrofit OEM Towing Hitch
Aug 13, 2014
I'm trying to retrofit the OEM Trailer hitch. I'm stuck at the control box wiring. I tried finding the info I need, however I couldn't find it and the people who I've asked elsewhere haven't responded to me. I need the Part Numbers of the 5NO-055-204-NA trailer hitch Electrical Installation Kit's pieces. Don't worry, if your Tiguan has an OEM trailer hitch, the wiring should be there. And by there, I mean under the steering wheel column, by the pedals.
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I see these 2 terms almost interchanged. I understand they have different functions. Clockspring is power to airbag and control module connects to, in my case, the CAN-BUS that actually sends the signals. Am I correct in my thinking here? I have just about put all the pieces together for my MK6 MFSW retrofit and still wondering if I'll need a new clockspring or not.
2011 Tiguan S -> 2011 Tiguan S with GTI MFSW
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Swapping the receiver of the OEM hitch receiver (which I understand is class 1) with a class 2? Everything I see seems to be class 2 in terms of bike racks. They seem to be the same diameter, so what is the difference?
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We got a Manual Passat SE a couple of months ago. Unfortunately its the best trim you can get in stick shift and I've subsequently found a few features which I'd like to add.
Driver side seat memory - Flicking through the manual I noticed that the seats can adjust based on the key used to open the car (BTW - AWESOME). My wife has a complete different seat and mirror position to me and so this would be really handy. Remote car start, and keyless entry would also be a bonus but really just a nice to have.
Cornering fog lights - This is more of a treat for my wife who preferred the look. Although given the wide range of weather we experience in our new home in Chicago I think it'll be a great addition.
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I want to fit front foglights to the Passat (new shape), and as my ECU won't take them, i would have to upgrade it, which i don't want to
could i fit them to a seperate switch, or will that upset the new pulse wiring system in the car, as i was told by wiring them on a seperate loom to an independant switch, to the battery, could cause the car to see an unknown power draw and throw out some error message.
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Retrofitting Cruise Control on GTI? Where it goes? Turn signal lever or steering wheel? Coding and/or adaptation needed?
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I commute about 70 minutes each way daily and sometimes listen to my music pretty loud. Occasionally after almost an hour of listening at mid volume level it will stop the sound. This is the Sound II package. The stereo is still on, and the time elapsed count stops.
I thought maybe the amp was shutting down from getting too hot, but that can't be it since if I eject and reinsert it will play again with no problem.
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I had a hitch installed about a year ago by U-Haul. Probably my first mistake. Although "custom" ordered it rattles against the muffler. They have been unable or unwilling to fix it. It appears that the muffler needs to be a bit lower. How to get rid of the noise.
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My MK6 GTI is currently in for service & inspection - however, after downgrading my tune to Stage I+ to pass emissions & for readiness to be set (Unitronic), my shop (CBTuning) noticed a code in the system - P2185. G83 Sensor Outlet Flange - Engine Coolant Temp Sensor 2 Circuit.
- Low coolant level
- Faulty Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor
- Stuck or leaking thermostat
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor harness is open or shorted
- Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor circuit poor electrical connection
Now, once noticed, the CBTuning advised me to have the car taken to my dealer for a warranty job/repair (Fred Beans VW). My technician went ahead and replaced the corresponding sensor, the harness for the sensor, and rewired everything up - surely enough, the code is still hanging there in the system.
With the tune having been done via a bench flash, I experienced and issue with my original ECU (OEM that was installed with purchase) and Unitronic came through in the clutch and replaced it with another ECU. What my technician noticed is that 'OLD' is written on the replacement ECU which raises concern and curiosity. My technician even setup a new overlay to test the new sensor directly to the ECU and the corresponding pin but alas, the code still refuses to go away.
My car will not pass inspection since readiness will not run with a static fault in the ECM.
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My hitch is rusting so bad that I can pull it off in pieces. Surprisingly it seems to be the only major rust on my EX. I crawled under it the other day to check out how it is removed and I only saw half of 4 bolts. Those bolts look like they are under the fuel tank and I can't get my socket onto them.
My question is, do I need to drop the fuel tank to remove the hitch, and also is there anything else I should do while the fuel tank is down.(Besides replacing the hitch with a new one.)
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I am interested in a 2004 and wanted to know if I add the curt hitch .. Or maybe oem one Has the curves cover and not notched or flat does that mean it should be made after 5/2004 and could use the hitch that is tubular? Not sure if the curt version matter for any of these
Also I heard they may be prewired for towing, how to look for besides the trans cooler, if they don't have this then it seems too much work.. and I should stay away?
Also doesn't have nav, so I wanted to know if it is harder to add aftermarket screen to non nav than one with factory nav?
It seems like this is a base trim do you know in 2004 what feature might be missing from this base model That I am "missing out" on?
Found a pic of the actual car under bumper built 9/04 Does it look normal. I think I see the towing wiring box there.. was the hitch port installed option? But it looks like it's ready for one.
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I will be installing a Euro-type of hitch to my car and for that the rear bumper needs to be removed.
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It's an '03 Odyssey with 116K miles that has developed a hitch when shifting from second to third. It feels like an uncoordinated manual shift when the clutch is put in before the accelerator is lifted. Car revs 500 rpm before completing the shift. This only happens under load, such as when accelerating hard from a stop or moderate acceleration going up a hill. Not willing yet to let the dealer tell me I just need a new transmission and so few places deal with automatic repairs.
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A buddy of mine ripped the hitch off his excursion due to rust. Anything can be fixed. I will try to get a picture of it.
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My hitch receiver is looking pretty strange lately and I want to take it down, grind it and repaint it. While crawling underneath the truck today, I noticed that it appears the bolts holding the hitch are kind of covered by the Tank Skid Plate.
I did some searching, and from what I've gathered, it appears that To drop the skid plate means to also drop the tank as they are one unit.
Is this true? Is there any way for me to get the hitch receiver out without messing around with the gas tank?
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I know this sounds pathetic but i cannot get the ball hitch off of my truck. That thing is on there and i cant get it loose because the ball keeps turning when i try to break the nut loose. I have tried several ways to keep the ball still but they don't hold it enough for me to get the nut loose. I dont care about keeping the hitch i am trying to put a smaller one on and don't need it so if i have to break it to get it off i don't care.
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I bought a tow hitch to put a carrier on the back of the vehicle for long trips where we might have 1 or 2 too many suitcases to fit inside.. I don't want the hitch on the vehicle for everyday driving which will be 99% of the time. It seem to me that if I could get the right size threaded studs I could just lift the hitch into place, tread on 4 bolts, and be done without having to take off the exhaust suspension bracket.
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Installion of hitch and trailer wiring on a 2015 PIP?
I found ZERO posts about installing a Curt 11276 hitch on a 2015 PIP. Or installing ANY OTHER hitch on a 2015 PIP.
Same applies to adding wiring for towing a trailer behind a 2015 PIP.
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A parking garage backed my 2012 Yukon XL into a cement wall. The trailer hitch is pushed back from its original position at least 3-4 inches. I took it to a dealership today and they said the frame is bent, but they could repair it.
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My wife backed the truck into a pole and bent the driver's side bumper and one of the ears on the trailer hitch (the part that bolts to the frame). I bought all the parts that need to be replaced (the left bumper end, the hitch itself, and the plastic bumper cover), gut am hesitant to try to change it all myself. How hard is it to change out all these parts? Is there a write-up any where out there for this?
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Fabricated own receiver hitch for the front? The ones available exit under the bumper and hang way to low, severely limiting approach angle.
I am planning on building one that exits through the large hole in the middle of the bumper, similar to the 99-07 style. I will use it for my custom generator mount and/or a small winch.
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