I have a 2009 Tiguan 2.0t 4 motion and recently has started having a very high pitched squealing noise coming from either the accessory belt area or the timing chain. The noise is constant until you are under acceleration and then it goes away. The CEL came on but when scanned it said no codes. and now sometimes the CEL will flash and the car has been idling rough. What it may be?
View 3 RepliesMy girls family has had an 08 elantra 2.0 new since 2008 and I've been doing the work. I recently did the timing belt ( July) with beck arnley oem parts. 65000 miles. I replaced belt, idler, and tensioner.
Right after I did it there was a mild hum at idle. It somewhat did this before the belt so I assumed it was just the new belt in plus the very mild hum it already had.
Recently it is humming very loud and high Pitched. It gets louder with higher rpm. If I take the cover of and move the needle on the tensioner while it's running it quiets down a little but it's an auto tensioner and doesn't stay right where it needs to be AND even when it is at the ideal spot it still hums.
I've been noticing some new noises in my Elantra in the last couple of months.
First, there's a clunking noise that sounds like it's coming from the steering area. It usually happens when I back up and rotate the steering wheel, like when I back out of my parking spot. More often it's in the morning.
Second, when I turn the fan on there is a high pitched squeal. If you turn the fan off you can hear the squeal more clearly for a moment as the fans die down. This one only started happening in the last couple of weeks.
I guess I'll have to take it in and get them to take a look. Last year it was a squeaking in the pano roof which only happened when it was hot out. They seemed to have lessened it but it wasn't gone completely.
What is causing this strange noise. I have an old 1998 Subaru Impreza that runs well but has this mystery squeaking noise coming from the area near the front left of the car. It seems to happen most on cold, dry days, and I can hear it when the car shakes, but only when it is driving, never at rest. I can usually make the noise if I let up on the gas while still in gear, and it happens sometimes while going over bumps, but typically only if the bump only affects one side of the car. If I am accelerating quickly or braking, the noise usually doesn't happen. It also usually only happens when I am in gear and have the gas pedal pressed, but it can still happens on bumps even if the car is in neutral, the noise is usually much quieter if the car isn't in gear.
I can't tell if the noise is coming from inside or outside of the car, but it seems to be louder inside and I can't hear anything from outside when driving through a parking garage with my windows down.Now this noise first appeared a few days after I got my clutch plate, fly wheel and axles replaced several months ago but I haven't been able to find anything on my own and the shop said they didn't see anything that could be causing it.I have included a recording I took while driving, if you listen its the high pitched squeaking. So far the only thing I have done is checked the sway bar and bushings and those are all in good condition and covered in lube.
I was thinking about checking out the above vehicle at my local dealer (Chevrolet). They're asking 15.9k and it has 57k miles. I need to know if it has a timing belt or a timing chain and how reliable is the engine/transmission.
View 1 RepliesI've got my sister's 1995 Dodge Neon with the 2.0L SOHC. While driving it recently I heard a horrible squeaking noise then a ZZZZZZzzzzzz sound. I immediately pulled over. The check engine light came on, and I shut the car off. Coolant was all over the place leading me to believe the water pump failed. I had it towed to my house, and now I will have it towed to the shop to get fixed. I would like to have them repair the timing belt and water pump. However, I am afraid that the valves were beaten to a pulp and now I will need a new engine. I was only going 35 mph when it happened. What are the odds that my valves were smashed up, and is there anything I can do to check them before I pay for a timing belt/water pump repair?
View 19 RepliesOur 2008 Honda CR-V w/120k one owner, always dealer maintained, vehicle has recently started exhibiting a little high pitch whine coming from the engine area which increases when you rev the gas. I checked the transmission dipstick and the level is just below the bottom hole (owners manual says it should be between the bottom and top hole). Would this make the whine? By adding some fluid should it go away? Is it okay to use a fluid other than Honda's?
View 3 RepliesMy audi runs great. Its has 170K miles on it. My mechanic replaced an air pump last Friday and by Monday I had a new issue. I noticed coolant leaking. I took it back to the mechanic who fixed the airpump to diagnose. He tells me that the leak is coming from the timing belt/water pump area and in order to get there it takes 7 hrs. He suspects that its the water pump or a cylinder block crack. He suspects it could be a water pump breakdown more than a block crack. A block crack could be a serious issue with the engine is what I suspect.
I think he did something wrong when he replaced the air pump. He tells me that these are in two different areas and that he canbe generous with his time in only diagnosis but not in fixing the problem. Do you think he is right ?
He recommends that when they open the timing belt cover its best to replace the belt, tensioners, water pump etc.. Now spending $ to get to know where the leak is sounds steep.
I have a problem with my 2005 elantra making a noise that sounded like it was coming from the cam timing chain. since it is still under the 10 year 100,000 mile warr. I brought it to my dealer. I had a P0011 code for advance timing also that keeps popping its ugly head. Dealer said that the chain would not be covered under warranty because of oil sludge and a faulty oil control valve. I went to remove the ocv from the head and when I removed the bolt the solenoid came off without the stem I tried an easy-out and managed to rotate it approx 1/8" but no luck getting it free to pull out.
View 1 RepliesI've noticed a noise coming from the engine which sounds to me like the timing chain. Seems like the tensioner is keeping the chain a little loose while the RPM's are low. The rattle doesn't happen all the time; only when I let off the throttle or accelerate keeping the RPM's low.
This is just my guess that it's the timing chain. I had heard a similar rattle in my old I35 and I had to change the timing chain tensioner.
I'm going to check the engine oil level tomorrow morning. This 10,000 mile oil change is really starting to seem like a not so good idea! Right now I'm at 9950..
I have a 2013 Elantra GL 4 DR (Canadian model). It has 88,000 km on it and has been maintained well.
For the past 2-3 weeks I have been here a squeaking noise from the engine bay that sounded like a bad belt. Sometimes it appears and sometimes it's quiet. I brought my car to a local shop to just switch the tires over and I asked them to take a look but they didn't notice anything and he said the belt is nice and tight. Of course when I leave the shop the noise starts. The noise happens sometimes when driving and while in park so it's not related to motion of the vehicle.
I took the engine cover off and it sounded like it was coming from the left (belt side) side towards the mid-rear of the engine.
It is a Camry 2005 3L 1MZ-FE engine, 100K KM on the clock. In the cold mornings, I hear noise from the timing belt area for about 3-4 minutes then the noise reduced. But I can still hear some noise all the time. From what I read, it appears that the hydraulic tensioner (tensioner idler pulley, NTN 13540-20030) is bad. Plus, I can feel that the car does not take off as fast as another older Camry with timing belt replaced (everything else is good with this Camry 2005)
My questions are:
1. Is it possible that only the tensioner is bad, not the timing belt to make the noise or both of them need to be bad?
2. If it is the case that only the tensioner is bad, is it possible to replace the tensioner only without changing the belt and other part (I mean without removing the crank pulley and other parts)? I don’t want to replace everything if I don’t have to.
I have an '09 Tiguan that recently began to start hard. Two days ago, it refused to start and hasn't started since. It cranks and cranks but to no avail. I disconnected the fuel line at the first hard piece on the front side of the head. The primer pump when activated pours gas out of the line for about 5-8 seconds.
I also pulled the coil packs off and verified there is spark on them. I scanned the car with vcds and came up with nothing other than a couple voltage codes (battery is low at this point from cranking and is bulged and showing yellow in the spot window).
Tonight I borrowed the perfectly fine battery from my B6 and attempted to start it. No codes whatsoever and yet it still refused to run.
Bought new 2012 Tiguan SE 4Motion three weeks ago, today replaced water pump regarding high pitch noise issue. btw, how to make sure if the wastegate rattle issue has been fixed or not.
View 12 RepliesLooking for info if the R32 has a timing belt or is it a chain and at how many kilometers shows it be changed.
View 5 RepliesI have been reading about all these horrific cases about the tensioner just giving and causing catastrophic failure. Without all the maintenance records VWoA is reluctant to support 100% even if you're still within the powertrain warranty. I understand these 20+ cases are a small population out of the entire group, but I don't want to risk being another statistical point for this topic. Just ordered the HS Tuning kit and the two snap on tools.
View 7 RepliesI bought a 2002 accord with 105800 miles 3 weeks ago. I got the timing belt and water pump replaced within a week of that. I have noticed that the car makes a high pitch noise upon accelerating after replacing the belt. It does not happen always, but sometimes. I have noticed it on 3 days in last 2 weeks. A preliminary web search tells me that it could be a tight timing belt.
View 3 RepliesI bought a 1995 k2500 sheyenne. There is a rather loud high pitch grinding/ squeaking noise emitting from what I would say the rear right of the truck. I have completely replaced the brake shoes and new pins and springs. No luck. What I can say is:
1. It hardly gets any louder as I speed up.
2. Still screams when in neutral, as long as the truck is rolling.
3. Rear differential has plenty of fresh fluid when I bought it.
4. If i hit a good size bump, it will run quiet for about 15 seconds.
95 nissan maxima decelerated on highway, i heard a clunking sound, and then it shut off, i opened the hood and it smelled like burnt rubber. Checked all of the belts i could see..no problems. Car wouldn't start after this...and all i could hear was a clicking sound. Pulled 6 codes for the car including bad speed sensor and a misfire, as well as bad EGR...i think the timing chain/belt broke..but i can't access it.
View 3 RepliesMy 2003 Sante Fe has developed a rattling sound in the engine. The oil level has been good. I took it to a dealer for diagnoses and they told me that the engine was gunked up and the timing "chain" tensioner couldn't move to keep it tight and it was rattling. They put some engine cleaner in and changed the oil and wanted me back in 500 to clean it again. I did that again, but the rattle is still there. It gets a little quieter after I have driven it for a while.
My question is doesn't the Sante Fe have a timing belt? If that is the case what do you think the rattle is?
For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.