How hard is it to replace the gas pedal on a 2012 Tiguan SE? My factory gas pedal makes a creaking sound when I accelerate/decelerate. Took it to VW and they are not going to do anything about it.
View 15 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Aveo - It makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car - What might be causing the sound?
View 2 RepliesMy 2005 Chevy Aveo makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate -It seems to come from the passenger side of the car, but it's not the seat. What might cause the creaking sound?
View 3 RepliesI was wonder for those of you that have lowered tigs, mainly coilovers, if you have expereince any creaking sounds in the front. I used my OEM sway bar/bushings/end links and I think that could be the issue. For those with coilover have you changed to shortened end links / aftermarket sway bar? My sound is not a constant issue. Mainly first thing in the morning, or if the Tig has been sitting for several hours, backing out of my driveway and pulling off at low speeds. Once I get to normal driving speeds, over 20 mph the sound goes away and doesn't come back unless it's been setting a while or I am backing out sharply and move forward at low speeds. Once back up over 20 mph it's going and I have no sound even at low speeds.
View 13 RepliesSo my 2016 S 4-Motion is coming up on 2400 miles. A little while back, I noticed that sometimes when I decelerate to or cruise btw 20-30mph there is an odd low whistling sound. But of course, not always. I haven't been able to identify any common factors other than the speed. It is the kind of sound you get from blowing over a bottle (for any musical types, it's a middle-C# regardless of speed), so I thought maybe it could be from some kind of gap where the roof rails are mounted because it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side roof. Didn't see anything out of the ordinary.
View 4 RepliesI just got my R last week and I noticed that in first gear you can feel and also hear a creaking sound from either the clutch or gas pedal. I've read a few things and it has something to do with the Hinge of the pedal itself and I believe it can be solved with Lithium grease or something like that. Noticed this while in 1st gear?
View 7 RepliesI have 2011 Sonata Limited 2.4L I have a rattle that seems to come from the engine compartment near/thru the dash/driver area. I am getting pretty good at replicating the issue. When I accelerate or decelerate thru 1500 - 1700 rpm the rattel/vibration happens. If I can continue to keep the same rpm level the rattle remains. It tends to be even more frequent when the AC is on. I have had the dealer look at 2-3 times and they cannot seem to remedy the problem.
View 2 RepliesI just had my 2003 Honda Accord Ex in the shop. I was without my car for a week. I broke down on the highway and had to have it towed, not once but twice. I took it to a reputable Honda/Acura repair shop. It turns out the ECU was corroded and the A/C drain was plugged up. I was not aware of the design of the Honda in this area, however, with the A/C unit being above the ECU in makes it easy to destroy the ECU if there is any problem with the A/C. Seems to me that Honda might have wanted to recall this to put plastic between the 2 to prevent the corrosion of the ECU or something, however, no such luck. The mechanic pointed out that the carpet on the passenger side was damp and to check it. Who would a thunk?
I got the car back yesterday. After running the diagnostic equipment they had to replace the ECU and ignition responders, put plastic between it and the A/C unit, replace the spark plugs (apparently the wrong ones were installed), and #4 coil, have the keys reprogrammed, replace the A/C filter and clean the A/C drain. Now here is the rub..I got it back and drove down the block. There was a high pitched whine or whistle sound that occurred when I accelerated. And the same sound when I took my foot off the petal as it was slowing down.
I immediately drove back to the shop and the mechanic and I took a drive. He had heard it also before I got it back. He mentioned it might be the transmission and that if it needs replacing. The car has 170,000 miles on it and it the past 2 months I have had new tires. He suggested I drive it over the long weekend (Labor Day) then make an appt to bring it in next week to have the transmission checked. So here is my concern, if it is the transmission will I do more damage by driving it? Will it get worse quickly and break down thereby leaving me stranded again? What is the best thing to do?
I have had my Corolla LE since October 2011, there has been no maintenance issues whatsoever with it, and it has 65K miles on it. Up until September it was a solid, quiet ride, and with the passing two months, what started to be a quiet vibration, has grown louder and louder. At first I thought it was something inside one of my storage compartments rattling, and then I thought it was the blower, only noticing the sound when I turned on the heat. Now, it makes noise when I accelerate, decelerate, at a complete stop (with the car still on). I read another post about it might be the heat shield, and I was convinced previous to reading that that it was something exhaust-related. But, I'm not sure. This noise has gotten louder, isn't consistent with any function of the car, it appears to be random, but the noise is still the same, the quick "drr, drr, drr" noise, truly a rapid gunfire sound.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Toyota Camry 4 cylinder and the ABS light comes on intermittently. Not only does the light come on, but sometimes when I apply the brakes, the brake pedal makes a grinding, vibrating sound that I can hear and feel under my foot, and feels as if the brake pedal is going to go all the way to the floorboard. If I quickly pump the brake, it stops that sound and the brake works fine.
I have taken the car to O'Rileys and Firestone and they put it on the analyzer. Two codes come up which indicate that the right front ABS was bad and/or an open circuit. I replaced the ABS sensor, but the problem described above persists. I took it back to Firestone and the same codes displayed. Firestone said it was an open circuit and that I should take it to the Toyota Dealer. I called the Dealer and they want $135 to analyze the car. They won't tell me what they will do in the analysis. I also took it to Just Brakes and they kept it for 3 days and could not or did not do much other than suggest I take it to the Dealership. I have read that the Dealership will probably say the ABS computer needs to be replaced ($1,000). I have also read that the 2007 Camry Hybrid ABS brake system has been recalled, although my Camry is NOT the hybrid.
There has had two fender benders on the left front side and the right front passenger tire hit a curb which bent the tire, but the tire has been balanced (not sure if the wheels were damaged in these minor accidents or if the wheels could be causing this?) Other thing that occurred right before the ABS light started coming on, and the brake issue, is that the air conditioner went toes up, and there were small metal fragments within the air condition housing unit. I replaced the whole A/C unit. I haven't been able to assess if one would have anything to do with the other, but it is interesting that the ABS and brake issue all started within a few days of the A/C unit being replaced.
Ive got a 2011 Sonata GLS with 111k miles. I purchased the car new. For the past several months the brakes make a crunch or creaking sound when the pedal is being pressed OR released. The funny thing is it only happens when driving forward. When I apply the brakes while reversing, the brakes are silent. I did a pad slap at 68k and have taken everything apart, cleaned and re-lubed to no avail. The sound can be heard at the front wheels when someone else works the pedal while the car is parked. Pads have about 50% thickness. Pads? Calipers, master cylinder?
View 27 RepliesI drive a '99 Chevy Tracker with the 2Liter engine, a 5 speed manual transmission and 110K mi. on it. When I lift my foot from the throttle pedal in preparing to shift gears the engine takes a very long time to reduce it's RPM. This is a problem, when up shifting, as the transmission is spinning too fast for smooth gear engagement.
The engine idles normally under all other circumstances. It is only slow to decelerate whenever I lift my foot from the throttle pedal. This makes up shifting very slow and/or causes the gears to sometimes grind slightly.
While driving 50MPH one day the car suddenly started making a very noisy, loud sound and would not accelerate when the gas pedal was depressed. I put the car in neutral and pulled off the road. The engine is running great but the gears are now all screwwy. R = neutral, and all other positions "N D 3 2 1" go forward. I put the car into one of the forward gears and it moves, but only about 20 feet before it ceases to move without a LOT of gas, then it is only 1-2 MPH.
View 2 Replies2002 camry. The car will not accelerate. The throttle body makes a clicking sound when pedal is depressed.
So.. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts in it. In the mean time located a spare throttle body from a 2003 from a local yard. The old throttle body has a part number 22030-28030 and the replacement has a part number 22030 0H010. The replacement throttle body wouldn't even move when the pedal was depressed.
I put the old one back on.. and now it doesn't click anymore but the car in Park only revs to 2000 rpm's. Its not sticking or having any mechanical issue.
I checked the parts site for Toyota and the replacement is the new number. Superseded. Does the throttle body after replacement need to be reprogrammed? Or whats the deal. I wish I was more Toyota literate when it comes to this.
In the drivers seat, when I lean forward, the seat makes a creaking noise. Not when I go backward and rest, but when I come forward. I just got this problem and I've barely put more than 7,000 miles on it
View 29 RepliesToday a creaking noise suddenly developed coming from the steering wheel when turning left at slow speeds. I only have 600 miles on the Tiguan, so was a little surprised to hear this so soon. I have found many others with similar problems on VWs through Google... the problem seems to range from coil springs to tie rod ends. I am hoping that this is just a freak occurrence, but am taking it in tomorrow.
It sounds like "creaking" as if you were shutting a door that needs WD40. That's the best way to explain it.
So the car was making a strange creaking noise from the column (the point where the wheel attaches to the column); then on a drive up north, i noticed that the horn had stopped working. Shortly after, the airbag light and warning came on, and I lost all power functions to the wheel (phone and radio control). Cruise, etc, all still work.
I'm guessing that the power harness took a dump, but unsure. Car going in on this weekend.
My rear door panel has been creaking ever since I got the car. The creaking noise seems to get worse every day. Ca a dealer will be able to isolate the noise and gent it fixed. Scheduled an appointment already for next Friday.
View 6 RepliesLately, been hearing a lot of creaking noises coming from the sunroof in the closed position. I have open and closed it a few times just to make sure it was aligned improperly. Maybe it was a one-time thing from having it open on a nice day but it has been pretty consistent now. Seems to be fine otherwise, opens and closes, no wind noise when closed, etc.
View 11 RepliesI've been trying to chase down a creaking noise from what I think is the front passenger side for about a month now -- it happens when I accelerate and the weight of the car (2005 mercury mariner) shifts. It's mostly a creak but almost a knocking/crunching sound that seems to correspond to when I give it gas.
I recently got my sway bar links and tie rod ends replaced, so I could have sworn it was a bushing on the control arm. Spraying silicone grease doesn't do anything, and last night I noticed what I think is the same noise happen when I shift from park to drive.
Could this be a worn motor mount? I'd rather replace that on my own than have to bring it in and get a new control arm installed so I can get a realignment.
I purchased a 2002 gti in Febuary with 161k miles. I believe it was a couple weeks after I bought it - it started making this creaking sound. At first it was more rare to hear it but it occurred going on uneven surfaces like up a steep hill or around an uneven turn or even stopping and going. It basically happened when the front end pitched up/down. It sounds almost like a rubber creaking or even plastic. (Some sort of bushing maybe? I'm no expert) Now it is rare for it not to make the creaking when taking off or slowing to a stop. It only occurs at lower speeds like right when taking off or at the very end of the stop right before the actual stop.
It will even slightly make the noise when accelerating in second gear right after shifting. (This is occasional) When I come to a complete stop and turn the wheel side to side ot will make the sound for a couple of turns and then go away. I have tried rocking the car and pushing down on it to replicate the sound. No luck. I lubricated various bushings and parts with silicon. It seemed to fix it but it only lasted for a few hours. (This could've been coincidental) It doesn't make the sound 100% of the time though. Probably at least 90% though when coming to a stop and going. It seems as the environmental factors (Temp and humidity) have a small effect on the creaking. I have a neuspeed 25mm front swaybar with endlinks.