Tiguan :: Front End Is Different From The Actual Unit Installed
Nov 30, 2011
Noticed that the front end (front lower skid plate) is different from the actual unit installed on the vehicle when compared to the pictures. The skid plate in the pics look much nicer and is larger and extends higher up towards the top of the lower part of the front bumper. [URL]........
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I timed my Tiguan for ten miles with the cruise control at 60mph on the way home tonight. This is the first car I've had where the speedometer reads less than actual speed. Average speed was 62.36mph. It varied between 60 and 65 on a mile by mile basis, but I can't put my finger on what caused the variation. The speed limit is 65 on that stretch, and there are a couple hills, but I was lucky and avoided slowpokes that would have taken me out of cruise.
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i just got my edelbrock performer rpm intake and my holley 4 barrel installed but it won't run...the only way i can get it to hit and run at all is to floor it like it's flooded...then it'll run for a second but will never rev up and get going like it should...so i watched some vids on youtube for setting mixture on holley's wich i was pretty sure about anyway...turned the idle mixture screws in to snug and then out 1 and a half turns. is this a symptom of a bad vacuum leak or is it something to do with the carb maybe not enough fuel?
it's a holley 4160...list-6619...which is 600 cfm...it's on a 302 with 3 speed.
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I have changed byte 18 to 04 ROW, which cleared the tail light codes, but now the front right DRL does not work.
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Problem with 1157 LED bulbs . I install all 4 light bulbs the tail lights and front turn signal lights the problem is all lights work with the signal lights. but when I turn the head lights the front signal lights don't work. Also the turn signal lights on my dash board both light come on
One more thing if I install the regular 1157 on the front . the LED lights on the back work fine and the from work fine . looks like the front don't like the LED bulbs. I have 87 ranger cab and half or extended cab. v6 2.9
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Recently bought a 91 f250 4x4 460 turned the air on and after a few min running the ac unit clicks. The front of the unit stops turning and makes a clicking sound. Then starts to spin again. Air blows kinda cold....
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I have a OEM base model head unit and today both front speakers stopped working out of nowhere I pulled the head unit out to see if everything was plugged in and it all was snug.. I checked all the fuses too. Is there any other way to check to see if its my head unit thats bad or the speakers? And I guess my second question is if I replace my head unit with a aftermarket one do I still need to retain the stock unit? My sunfire had that problem I needed to put my oem radio in the trunk and hook it into my new aftermarket one. I did try adjusting the fade and all the setting too with no luck.
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For the past couple of weeks I have been having some issues with my trunk. The MFD would say that the trunk is open when indeed it is not. With that happening the car will lock the doors but not arm with an audible beep and the door lock lights will flicker at the same time so would the trunk display on the MFD.
I found a fix by locking the trunk down with the valet key on the driver door by the trunk/gas buttons, that stopped the trunk display from lighting up and the car was no able to arm the alarm properly.
Now within 3 days the issue has come back up even with the trunk locked with the valet key. In order to get the car to arm properly I have to unlock the Trunk Switch , open the trunk, re close trunk and then re lock the trunk switch with the valet key.
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I need to replace the front passenger side wheel hub unit on my 2012 F250 4x4 120,000 mile reg cab truck. Its been a while but I did one on my 2000 F250 without any problems. There should be a few clips inside the hub that hold the looking hub and shaft together, right? Do I need any special tools for this job? What do the bolts need to be torqued to?
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I've seen a copy of the order guide, and I still can't figure out what the differences between 2015 and 2016 GTIs is going to be. Maybe I'm not reading it correctly, but it doesn't look much, if any different.
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The MPG display on my new 2014 Camry XLE displays 1.5mpg higher than actual MPG. This is based on the first 9 tanks (Toyota Dealer reset the trip mileage during tire rotation). Mostly highway type of driving (backroads of the desert).
Note that the next three tanks-fulls the MPG display accuracy is better. Maybe the display is more accurate once the car get broken-in.
Data Follows:
Fill Up: Display MPG: Delta: Calculated MPG: Gallons: Miles
1 : 35.1 : 3.6 : 31.5 : 16.007 : 504.1
2 : 33.4 : 0.6 : 32.8 : 14.169 : 464.1
3 : 34.8 : 1.0 : 33.8 : 15.278 : 516.6
4 : 33.1 : 2.5 : 30.6 : 16.548 : 505.8
5 : 35.2 : 3.6 : 31.6 : 15.522 : 490.1 Max Fill
6 : 35.8 : -2.2 : 38.0 : 14.781 : 562.0
7 : 33.1 : 1.2 : 31.9 : 14.469 : 460.9
8 : 35.6 : 3.3 : 32.3 : 16.087 : 520.4
9 : 34.0 : -0.6 : 34.6 : 15.223 : 526.8
Totals
-------------------
9 : 34.5 : 1.5 : 33.0 : 138.084 : 4550.8
Overall MPG Display Error for 9 tanks: 1.5MPG overestimate
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I have strange electrical problems my 2006 Prius has recently developed.
It started off this past weekend when I went to shut off the vehicle after about a 5 mile drive. The car wouldn't power down, though, regardless of how many times I pressed the Power button. I then noticed that the wheels on the MFD were still turning, despite the car being stopped and in park. I shifted to drive, drove a few feet, shifted to reverse, drove a few feet, then back to park. Same problem. (Note that I was able to shift gears without any problems despite the wheels on the MFD continuing to turn.) I finally ended up leaving the car powered on for about 20 minutes, and when I returned the wheels on the MFD had stopped turning and I was able to successfully shut the car down.
I drove it several times with no problems, but then experienced the same problem again yesterday. Also, I noticed that the bar graph of mpg seems to be showing about half of what the car is actually getting. I was on a long trip, and the car seemed to be getting about its usual 50mpg, but the bar graph consistently showed ~25mpg. The "instant" bar on the far right of the graph was correct, as was the overall average displayed on the other page, but the graph itself was clearly wrong.
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I recently purchased a used 2007 and have since driven 308 miles on it. There are currently 3 bars left on the fuel gauge, and the computer reports that I'm averaging 45.8 mpg.
However, I don't see how that mpg is possible because if I have been averaging 45.8 mpg over 308 miles, I should have used only 6.27 gallons...and 6.27 gallons is only 56.5% of the 11.9 gallon tank size, compared to the 70% that I've used based on my current fuel gauge status.
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Checked the MPG Since Last Fillup numbers against computing the actual miles driven and fuel used manually? I find the (2011 460) numbers to be consistently 2 mpg or more higher than actuality. To be as accurate as I could I used the same pump at each filling, letting it stop automatically when full. I now wonder at the accuracy of the "total mpg"--which shows 14.1 for 15,000 miles. I drove 5000 of those, and never got more than 12.5 mpg (by the Lexus meter.)
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So as of late, I've noticed something strange while I accelerate at hwy speeds. I'll try my best to describe. Cruising on the hwy at 68 mph in 6th gear at about 3000 rpm. Without downshifting, I press on the accelerator to speed up and the tach (and subsequent engine noise) seems to outpace the actual rate of acceleration.
The tack needle about a second or 2 after pressing the gas pedal moves quickly to about 3300 rpm and then settles down to 3100 rpm.After that acceleration seems normal.I tried it again and same result happened.Later I was on surface streets and tried the same thing but at a lower speed and gear. It seemed to produce a similar result.
My question is, what the heck could be causing this? Clutch starting to go? Car has only 17800 miles. I have a UM Stage 1 tune w/ CTS Turbo intake that has been on for the last 3000 miles. Give or take. I remember burning the clutch 2 times in the past. I don't track or do any kind of hoonage with it.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid that is having a speedometer problem. The speedometer registers 3 MPH more than my actual speed regardless what speed I am traveling. For example, if I am going 25 MPH, my speedometer will read 28 MPH; if I am traveling at 60 MPH my speedometer will read 63 MPH. I took my car to the dealership and they replicated the issue, but said that it is operating within ?normal? range. They admitted that they do not know how to fix the problem. I did not need to worry for it is operating within normal range. I have never had this problem with any other car, including my previous Toyota Camry.
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Having some challenges with my 2003 1.8T Passat (only 62,000 miles). Have been told about an oil leak long ago which is just now starting to be noticeable in actual drips. Keeping that under control (while I save up to pay for it; am not an "under the hood" type) for the moment (I check the oil level weekly and have only had to add a little since adding two quarts 6 weeks ago), but yesterday and this morning I now see a pink, watery fluid leaking from under the front passenger side.
About 6 weeks ago I had an issue where I had no coolant at all (got the warning light, my brother took me to VW, got the coolant, filled up). Checking that weekly too and had to add a little about two weeks ago, but so far its remaining level. Plus its on the driver's side, so would it have hoses running to the passenger side that could leak?
Checked other threads but find nothing else described as pink. Panicked this is steering, transmission (brakes even?), clutch (if there is) fluid? Am in a financial bind right now so can't just take it to some one for a look-see, and, as I say, am not a car geek. I can add oil and washer fluid, that's about it. Should I be panicked or simply continue to monitor coolant level?
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I took the car to be inspected today (for extended warranty purposes) and asked for the mechanic to run the car through their code reader and print out all error codes. They did and this is the error code it gave for TPMS (FYI- They couldn't reset the error display either, and I've done the 'learning' procedure several times as suggested in these forums, but it doesn't work and the display eventually shows Tire Monitoring Pressure Fault) NONE of the tires show in the TPMS screen. I have no flats, nails, and all the pressures are up to level.
So here is the actual code from the Phaeton:
CODE001:
01325 Type pressure sporadic monitoring
Open contr.unit-j5-0 circuit 2
So what I am wondering is whether the Module has gone bad or perhaps the sensors? What the above means?
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Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
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The problem with the caller from CA's Subaru smelling like burnt rubber is the actual tires are heating up due to an improper torque split between the tires. Subarus are very sensitive to changes in tire pressure and thus the diameter and will wear the tires down. The driver mentioned 8 sets of tires. He has a bad torque split in the AWD system.
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I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
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